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Old 06-07-2016, 09:29 PM   #21
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I called my insurance company and asked about coverage during the transport of a new vehicle. Now, I am a liability-only customer because my daily driver is not worth the policy to cover it. I was told that I would be covered as the driver, granted I did not mention what type of vehicle I purchased. So, with policy card, title and bill of sale in hand I drove her home (6 hours) sweating bullets and crossing my fingers.
Congrats on the safe ride home!
It always makes me super nervous.

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Old 06-08-2016, 07:34 AM   #22
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WOW! That thing is clean underneath....I wish!
Look up "RUST" in the dictionary there's probably a pic of my bus.

Love the pic of the supervisor.

Didn't see any family members helpin' with the removal of the seats.
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Old 06-14-2016, 12:34 AM   #23
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WOW! That thing is clean underneath....I wish!
Look up "RUST" in the dictionary there's probably a pic of my bus.

Love the pic of the supervisor.

Didn't see any family members helpin' with the removal of the seats.
Haha... Nope, just me and my lady. We got it handled though... I'll cut my brother some slack since he just purchased, and was moving into, his first house.
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Old 06-22-2016, 09:09 AM   #24
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I hope everyone's having a great week so far! Just a few more photos of our progress to this point...


Ceiling skins are down...


...side panels are down too!


One leaky emergency hatch, gone. Various adhesives... not so fast.


If an emergency exit hatch is now living out its life as a skylight, which bathroom should it use?


...and we now have two skylights.



So, this is where we stand today. I would really like to have the roof, more or less, done before we begin converting the interior. It seems that we have a few small leaks coming from roof seams and/or rivets. Anyone have any ideas about sealing them? I have been considering Flex Seal type products, but am worried about the durability of those. Rhino Liner or LineX would be awesome as it would probably also have insulating properties, but we likely cannot afford nor do we want to move it somewhere to have that done. I will eventually be painting the roof white. Thanks for checking in, folks!
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Old 06-22-2016, 09:24 AM   #25
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Making great progress. Keep up the good work !!
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Old 06-22-2016, 07:10 PM   #26
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Goodness the underneath is museum quality! Lookin good!
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Old 07-18-2016, 10:27 AM   #27
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Well, it's been a few weeks since our last update, but holiday travel has a way of slowing your progress. By the way, I hope everyone had a fantastic Fourth and were able to put their skoolies to good use! We're pretty much done stripping down the interior and are about to start building her back up. Gonna be ordering our solar kit soon and will be painting/sealing the metal floor today. So, that's where we're at and here are the visuals...

Roof: sealed and painted...




Puke mat, dumpster bound...


...the metal floor is pretty clean, so we were thinking just a coat (or two?) of Rustoleum before framing the subfloor would be adequate. Any thoughts? Also, has anyone ever used strips of 3/4" plywood for the subfloor framing? We're working with limited vertical space here. Of course, I guess we could just use 1x2s also...

Thanks for checking in, folks! Take care!
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Old 07-18-2016, 10:48 AM   #28
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...the metal floor is pretty clean, so we were thinking just a coat (or two?) of Rustoleum before framing the subfloor would be adequate. Any thoughts? Also, has anyone ever used strips of 3/4" plywood for the subfloor framing? We're working with limited vertical space here. Of course, I guess we could just use 1x2s also...

Thanks for checking in, folks! Take care!
Make sure to patch any existing bolt, screw, or nail holes first, then put down the rustoleum. One or two coats max should be fine.

I myself am not using any subfloor framing. I'm going with a "floating" floor. After all the floor cabinet bottoms are screwed to it and then cabinet sides screwed to the side wall supports it's really not floating anymore anyway. By not putting down any subframing you keep from putting more holes in the floor. Plus it does not raise the floor that way either and gives you more headroom. But to each their own, it's your bus so do what makes you feel the most comfortable.
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Old 07-18-2016, 11:11 AM   #29
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Make sure to patch any existing bolt, screw, or nail holes first, then put down the rustoleum. One or two coats max should be fine.

I myself am not using any subfloor framing. I'm going with a "floating" floor. After all the floor cabinet bottoms are screwed to it and then cabinet sides screwed to the side wall supports it's really not floating anymore anyway. By not putting down any subframing you keep from putting more holes in the floor. Plus it does not raise the floor that way either and gives you more headroom. But to each their own, it's your bus so do what makes you feel the most comfortable.
I have a foam sealant (Great Stuff type product) that I was gonna use for the bolt holes. However, the directions say you have to use a latex paint for top coating. Can I paint first, then seal? Or just use something different for hole fill? Also, are you insulating your floor? That is the main reason I was going to frame out the flooring...
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Old 07-18-2016, 12:01 PM   #30
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Make sure to patch any existing bolt, screw, or nail holes first, then put down the rustoleum. One or two coats max should be fine.

I myself am not using any subfloor framing. I'm going with a "floating" floor. After all the floor cabinet bottoms are screwed to it and then cabinet sides screwed to the side wall supports it's really not floating anymore anyway. By not putting down any subframing you keep from putting more holes in the floor. Plus it does not raise the floor that way either and gives you more headroom. But to each their own, it's your bus so do what makes you feel the most comfortable.
Really good advice. I think the only caveat is for those that want to full-time in their skoolie, especially during the winter. The desire for 2-3" of insulation will most likely require framing, particularly for spray foam.
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Old 07-18-2016, 12:40 PM   #31
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I have a foam sealant (Great Stuff type product) that I was gonna use for the bolt holes. However, the directions say you have to use a latex paint for top coating. Can I paint first, then seal? Or just use something different for hole fill? Also, are you insulating your floor? That is the main reason I was going to frame out the flooring...
You could definitely paint first and then seal the holes afterwards. That might be the easiest.

Yes, I am putting down 1/2" poly-iso foam board insulation first. And then 1/2" OSB plywood on top of that. Most insulation like that comes in 4x8 sheets just like the plywood does. To keep from having gaps I'm going to run my insulation first horizontally on the floor wall to wall, and then run my plywood vertically on top of it wall to wall. I'll use aluminum tape to cover the slight gap where the sheets of insulation meet each other.

Although a lot of people on here seem to subframe their floors you really don't need to as it just makes your floor thicker and less height to the ceiling.
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Old 07-18-2016, 01:59 PM   #32
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I'd show you photos of mine but I'm not going to start on my bus for another 3 weeks. But here is a website showing what I'm describing to you. I'll be doing mine the same way.

Good News Bus: Day 4 - Prep Work, Foam & Plywood
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Old 07-18-2016, 03:06 PM   #33
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"Great Stuff" is not at all metal friendly. Unless the metal is very well treated/painted it will rust it like crazy. You would be much better served using something like urethane based automotive seal sealant.
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Old 07-18-2016, 04:25 PM   #34
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"Great Stuff" is not at all metal friendly. Unless the metal is very well treated/painted it will rust it like crazy. You would be much better served using something like urethane based automotive seal sealant.
Like TANGO said. Not all spray foams are metal friendly and in response to your question about sealing before paint or after. in my opinion I would rather have the sealant stick to bare metal than to a layer of paint subjected to water.
And I know it is time consuming but I cleaned the old bolt holes top and bottom and would caulk 10-15 inside and then go underside and seal/spread the caulking to seal the opening also.
Water is a tough animal to keep out or in.
My normal job is to keep it in whatever I happen to be working on but my bus requires me to keep it out so anything you can do to plug a hole before paint will serve you better. Some weld all of there bolt holes but may I suggest some JB weld or there are a lot of new type's of putty out there that are supposed to be as good.
Great stuff is not a water proof barrier for anything.
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Old 07-18-2016, 04:28 PM   #35
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I'm just gonna take lil tabs of scrap sheet metal and metal glue them over the holes once the floor is primered.
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Old 07-18-2016, 04:32 PM   #36
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With some form of sealant under the scraps of course??
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Old 07-18-2016, 04:39 PM   #37
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With some form of sealant under the scraps of course??
The metal glue will do. Not reiventing the wheel here, just plugging some holes.
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Old 07-18-2016, 08:17 PM   #38
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I'm welding all of the holes in the floor. If you are going with less than 2" of insulation in the floor, polyiso type, then you could get by without the framework. I will be using some sort of framework myself because I'm going with a minimum of 3" possibly more.
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Old 09-09-2016, 10:07 AM   #39
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Hey everybody,
Wow, I haven't posted an update in quite some time! Things have been moving along at a decent pace and hopefully we can still make our January 2017 departure deadline. Here are some visuals, to get you up to speed:

We ended up putting down a coat of Rustoleum and filling our bolt holes with an elastomeric sealant. Then, our subfloor began with 1x3 furring strips which we decided to only use glue for (in lieu of putting more holes in the metal floor), hence the bricks and dog holding them in place to set...


Next, we filled the cells with 1/2" polyiso...


T/G OSB boards to finish the substrate and regular foamboard for insulation on sides...


Pretty much the cheapest vinyl flooring sheet we could find, though we do actually like the tile-esque pattern. It could be considered unorthodox to throw the vinyl down before framing, but we wanted as much of a protective barrier for the floor as we could manage...


More polyiso for the ceiling! (Doubled up, so the r-value is around 7.2...)


Another member of our family decides to join the crew...


Interior frame work begins with our dinette. The bench on the right will also house our battery bank/inverter/etc....


Our couch begins to take shape. It will have storage underneath, as well as in the backrest...


The forward "lounge area"...


...and there we are. Our solar package arrived a few weeks ago and I'll give an update on that soon. As of this week, the galley kitchen area has begun and we're still fleshing out some details on how it will all be arranged.

By the way, we got really excited about the Skooliepalooza, but just don't think we can get there in time. However, if there is a second annual event we'll likely be there (we hope to be somewhere in the SW/West Coast region in January 2018 ). Thanks for stopping by!
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Old 09-09-2016, 10:34 AM   #40
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Lookin' god guys! Keep the pix coming.
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