Arctic Family Bus

[Biscuitsjam]

My challenge, as always, is having enough time to do anything. Looking ahead, I'll be away from home 3 of the next 6 months for training. I have about a month of anticipated projects to get the bus where I want it to be before I leave Alaska in approximately Fall 2020.


I'll probably be able to do projects 1-7 (propane, heat, electrical, plumbing) prior to my summer trip to Kenai. If I were to really push it, I might be able to get all the way to project 11 (replace roof hatches, insulation, and roughed-in interior) prior to that trip. Realistically, though, there are probably as many unanticipated projects as the ones I have listed here...


1. Finish the 90% complete propane - I need to add conduit to protect my CSST, get the appropriate adapter to connect my 100 lb tank, finish hooking up the propane on my generator, and fasten everything securely. (Only a small portion of my lines underneath are CSST - the rest is iron pipe - I appreciate the advice and will better protect myself).
1/2 day

2. Install another storage box underneath - I have the box and all the tools and parts, and I've already put in two of them.
1/2 day

3. Finish the electrical - I need to connect the generator to the circuit breaker panel, move my batteries to the storage box, and rough-in the electrical outlets/lines (with conduit). There will be some additional electrical once the interior is finished, but the conduit should facilitate if I plan things out right.
2-1/2 days and 5 trips to the hardware store

4. Finish installing propane heater - it's partially installed, but I still need to cut the exhaust holes in the outside of the bus and do the electrical portion.
1/2 day

5. Install coolant heaters - I have the heaters. My main challenge is that the previous owner of the bus removed the old heaters and cut the old coolant lines where I cannot easily get to them - it's going to significantly increase the amount of work.
1 day

6. A dozen small projects - Figure out the windshield wiper electrical issues, fix a couple of leaks, etc.
2 days

7. Install plumbing - I have the big components (sinks, faucets, pumps, water tanks, water heater, etc.). Finalizing the plan is going to be a bit of a challenge, and I anticipate I will have a lot of unexpected stuff come up.
4 days

8. Install roof hatches - I have two boat hatches that are the right size. However, making an adapter to fit the curve of the roof is a challenge I haven't figured out yet.
1-1/2 days

9 Rip out existing interior and insulation - it's been usable for the trips we have taken so far (we have beds, seating, a toilet, and some storage), but this will be a major step
1 day

10. Put in insulation - I have a bunch of spray foam already ready to go, and I plan to use foam boards where it makes sense.
2 days

11 Rough-in interior!!! - This will be a major carpentry project that will take me a very long time to actually finish. Initially, I want to install the master bed in the rear, the bunk beds, a wall around the bathroom, a kitchen counter and sink, and the seating up front. I have two goals: 1. Get something usable quickly and 2. Minimize the number of things I have to do twice
5 days (initially)

12. Skin over unused windows - this is going to be another fun project - is there a suitable local source, or do I need to go to Anchorage for materials (6 hour drive each way)?
1-1/2 days

13. Reseal windows that are staying - as of right now, I'm planning to keep the existing windows, but I'm worried about insulation and being water-tight.
1 day

14. Replace main door - I want a door that locks, doesn't rattle, has a window for visibility, and provides some insulation. I'm not a fan of those flimsy plastic RV doors - I'd like something a little more substantial. I also hate the ground clearance I have from my bottom step (12") and want to raise it about 4" before I put the door in. It is a standard door width, but not a standard height. This is going to require me to cut off the bottom step, weld a new one in place, and take out a bunch of door opening/closing hardware.
1-1/2 days

15. Paint roof - I have a big bucket of silicon elastometric roof paint that will improve looks and help seal the roof a little better
1 day

16. Prep exterior - I've done a lot of work on the outside, but I'll still have some dents, etc. to fix.
2 days

17. Paint exterior - A light blue - still have some decisions to make on exactly what it will look like. This will be one of the last projects before leaving this state, as I drive through a lot of brush up here and don't want to scratch things up too bad after I paint before I leave.
2 days

18. Install trailer hitch - I want the ability to pull a vehicle behind the bus before we start our mega road-trip leaving Alaska. I've read of other people that have done it with the same undersized drivetrain I have (T444e and AT545), but it's only going to work if I do the next project too. This project is over a year away, so I'm not going to stress about its feasibility yet.
1/2 day

19. Install transmission cooler and temp gauge - pretty important if I want to tow something, or even to drive in the mountains. Right now, I have no way of knowing if the transmission is hot. Even if I don't tow, I'll want to do this before leaving Alaska.
1 day

[Biscuitsjam]

Originally Posted by Iceni John

That CSST propane line directly above the tires makes me nervous. I strongly suggest you protect the CSST inside something else - it's not intended to withstand stones being flung at it at 60 MPH, something that normally doesn't happen inside a house. I put my ProFlex 1/2" CSST inside 3/4" EMT conduit, and where it runs next to the front wheels to the generator in the front I also put it and the EMT inside some thick-wall stainless steel pipe - nothing's going to damage the CSST there! You can't be too safe when it comes to propane.

John

Thanks to everyone for the advice - there are only a couple of my connections under the bus using CSST - most of it is using iron pipe. Because I haven't fastened it down completely, it won't be hard to put it in some conduit. - The picture is a little misleading on exactly how vulnerable it is - the CSST wasn't fastened down near the wheel and is hanging about 3 inches lower and much more exposed than it will when finished (inside a conduit).

[Sleddgracer]

Originally Posted by Biscuitsjam

Another project completed this weekend:
Mud flaps for the front tires. I have a fair bit of hardware under the bus, so I bought a set of mud flaps.
Attachment 28270
The mud flaps are only about 3 inches behind the tires, which makes me a little nervous, but the wheels don't rub even when I turn it all the way. (It looks closer in the picture thsn it is). I have not driven yet since installing these.

the only problem I can see with mounting the mud flaps that close to the front tires is when you back into a curb or snow bank, etc, with your front wheel - the flap could jam and could get torn off

[Biscuitsjam]

It looks like if the rubber flaps got torn off, it wouldn't normally damage any hardware. All I'd have to do is replace the rubber itself, which wouldn't be too bad. Looking back, I don't think I've done much that could have resulted in losing my flaps that way so far.

[Biscuitsjam]

I've been hard at work on the bus, trying to get everything ready for a July trip to Kenai. My employment is getting in the way as I'm working 12-13 hours every weekday, so it's always a little hard between spending time with the family and being exhausted. Within the next weeks, I plan to have half the windows removed and skinned over, the rest resealed, boat hatches in to replace the emergency hatches, insulation, electrical, flooring, and the beds put back in.

Work is about to get a little tougher too, since we have a deployment to Iraq coming in September. Even more incentive to get things in good shape, because we'll be doing a mega-roadtrip when I finish my time over there again.

[tugboater]

Originally Posted by Biscuitsjam

8. Install roof hatches - I have two boat hatches that are the right size. However, making an adapter to fit the curve of the roof is a challenge I haven't figured out yet.
1-1/2 days

12. Skin over unused windows - this is going to be another fun project - is there a suitable local source, or do I need to go to Anchorage for materials (6 hour drive each way)?
1-1/2 days

13. Reseal windows that are staying - as of right now, I'm planning to keep the existing windows, but I'm worried about insulation and being water-tight.

Hi Biscuits-

I was going to answer your question about windows on my thread, but I'll just do it here & chine in on a few other items.

I shopped my skin steel hard (called over a dozen places) in the Valley & in Anchorage. I ended up using 18g Paintlok. It cost me 98.00/4x10 sheet. If you go with something thinner it steps down $10-15/ sheet. The other types of sheet were not substantially cheaper or more expensive. I am very glad I went with 18g material. I wasn't sure at first because the samples I looked at, all 12" square pieces, did not give a good representation of what my application needed. The 18g seems REALLY thick and stiff when handling it in small pieces but not so much in big sheets. I would have been bummed if I went with the 20g. I also had him cut all of my sheets to the width I need to cover all my windows. The cuts are straight/clean and 60' of cutting with my shears would have been a PITA. I'm skinning all my windows & starting over. It costed me 30.00 to have him do it. Combes Sheet Metal is who I used. Helpful, knowledgeable owner.

As for your question in my thread about the windows. We are eyeing CL and other sources, but using the locally owned camper manufacture as a back up. Have you ever seen Camper Cache's truck toppers & camper shells up here? They build custom stuff, built for Alaska. High quality that stands up to our elements. Anyway, they stock all sorts of stuff useful to us, including windows. I went down there and talked up the owner & asked him all sorts of questions. I even got a tour of his shop, during the most busy time of the year. He repairs & builds new & is an AMAZING resource for what we're doing. I have more faith in his experience & knowledge than anyone else when it comes to this project. I bought butyl tape & sealant from them yesterday. The sealant is what he uses in his builds & it is only 10.50 a tube. His windows come in various sized and shapes (I looked at those too), they are not cheap, but they are right here in hand if we decide to use them. I attached his price sheet here: http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f13/rv...log-26410.html
We are not to the window phase yet, so before we splurge on new stuff from CC, I'm watching CL & shopping down south like you. In the end, we feel like it's worth the cash if we have to drop many hundreds of dollars on new windows. IT's handy to have a stock sitting on a shelf just a few miles away. I'll pass on anything I find during our search.
If you ever get an itch to head this way, there are some pretty amazing places to park and camp within 20 miles of his shop, specifically Hatcher Pass. We live between the two in Palmer.

All for now. If you ever need help sourcing stuff down here hit me up. I try not to go to Anchorage but always end up in there once every week or two between kid logistics & my own stuff. I'll be a regular at Camper Cache soon as well, so if you need me to ask any specific questions or eyeball anything I can.

Oh...on your roof vents. Many sheet metal vendors can build what you're looking for. I might hire the guy I bought my metal from to do a custom shower pan.

Good luck with your punch list & thanks your your service!

Eric

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by tugboater

Hi Biscuits-

I was going to answer your question about windows on my thread, but I'll just do it here & chine in on a few other items.

I shopped my skin steel hard (called over a dozen places) in the Valley & in Anchorage. I ended up using 18g Paintlok. It cost me 98.00/4x10 sheet. If you go with something thinner it steps down $10-15/ sheet. The other types sheet were not substantially cheaper or more expensive. I am very glad & went with 18g material. I wasn't sure at first because the samples I looked at, all 12" square pieces, did not give a good representation of what my application needed. The 18g seems REALLY thick and stiff when handling it in small pieces but not so much in big sheets. I would have been bummed if I went with the 20g. I also had him cut all of my sheets to the width I need to cover all my windows. The cuts are straight/clean and 60' of cutting with my shears would have been a PITA. I'm skinning all my windows & starting over. It costed me 30.00 to have him do it. Combes Sheet Metal is who I used. Helpful, knowledgeable owner.

As for your question in my thread about the windows. We are eyeing CL and other sources, but using the locally owned camper manufacture as a back up. Have you ever seen Camper Cache's truck toppers & camper shells up here? They build custom stuff, built for Alaska. High quality that stands up to our elements. Anyway, they stock all sorts of stuff useful to us, including windows. I went down there and talked up the owner & asked him all sorts of questions. I even got a tour of his shop, during the most busy time of the year. He repairs & builds new & is an AMAZING resource for what we're doing. I have more faith in his experience & knowledge than anyone else when it comes to this project. I bought butyl tape & sealant from them yesterday. The sealant is what he uses in his builds & it is only 10.50 a tube. His windows come in various sized and shapes (I looked at those too), they are not cheap, but they are right here in hand if we decide to use them. I attached his price sheet here: http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f13/rv...log-26410.html
We are not to the window phase yet, so before we splurge on new stuff from here, I'm watching CL & shopping down south like you. In the end, we feel like it's worth the cash if we have to drop many hundreds of dollars on new windows. IT's handy to have a stock sitting on a shelf just a few miles away. I'll pass on anything I find during our search.
If you ever get an itch to head this way, there are some pretty amazing places to park and camp within 20 miles of his shop, specifically Hatcher Pass. We live between the two in Palmer.

All for now. If you ever need help sourcing stuff down here hit me up. I try not to go to Anchorage but always end up in there once every week or two between kid logistics & my own stuff. I'll be a regular at Camper Cache soon as well, so if you need me to ask any specific questions or eyeball anything I can.

Oh...on your roof vents. Many sheet metal vendors can build what you're looking for. I might hire the guy I bought my metal from to do a custom shower pan.

Good luck with your punch list & thanks your your service!

Eric

Well said! Agreed on the 18ga. I've worked with steel for a long time and its perfect for skinning a bus.

[tugboater]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

Well said! Agreed on the 18ga. I've worked with steel for a long time and its perfect for skinning a bus.

I haven't worked with sheet metal much at all, so your repeated advice on this topic (and others) I took with serious consideration. Thanks!

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by tugboater

I haven't worked with sheet metal much at all, so your repeated advice on this topic (and others) I took with serious consideration. Thanks!

I'm no expert, but I have owned some buses and I've cut/handled thousands of sheets of steel in my life.
Glad you got your steel. Mines sat for a year now and is oxidized on the top sheet. no biggie as I'll ospho it before I use it. I've got six 4x10's of 18ga. One cold rolled, one hot rolled. Should keep me supplied for a while.
Before my step-dad retires from the steel shop I'll order a few more.

[tugboater]

Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach

Keep your stick on the ice.

Ha! Reading Biscuit's thread & came across this. Love the reference & how it applies to real life...that's one my kids might understand!

[tugboater]

Originally Posted by Biscuitsjam

It got down to -19 farenheit. I was working underneath, finishing my propane install, putting mudflaps behind the front tires, and improving the ladder for my side door. I also replaced the top for my stove.

Holy crap you are way tougher than I am. I grew up in Fairbanks & know that cold well. If you can work in that temperature you belong here. I have a personal rule about not working in temps below freezing unless I'm getting paid or a life close to me is in danger.

[Sleddgracer]

Originally Posted by tugboater

Holy crap you are way tougher than I am. I grew up in Fairbanks & know that cold well. If you can work in that temperature you belong here. I have a personal rule about not working in temps below freezing unless I'm getting paid or a life close to me is in danger.

me too unless I'm running a team - lol

[Biscuitsjam]

Originally Posted by tugboater

Holy crap you are way tougher than I am. I grew up in Fairbanks & know that cold well. If you can work in that temperature you belong here. I have a personal rule about not working in temps below freezing unless I'm getting paid or a life close to me is in danger.

At those temperatures, it's about 50% inside getting warm. It depends on what you are doing - gloves are a lot easier than holding metal in bare hands. I would get anywhere from 10 to 45 minutes at a stretch.

It's now 50 degrees in the day. Soon, it'll be 75 with 24 hours/day of sunlight. This is a lot more pleasant.

[Biscuitsjam]

Just found put I have 4 weeks before deploying to Iraq. So, can I get the bus waterproof?

Edit, maybe not quite so soon - answer coming shortly....

Even if I don't deploy in a few weeks, I'll probably deploy in a few months. Either way, I'm going.

[Biscuitsjam]

Ever wonder how flammable your driver's seat is? One spark from the angle grinder, and it went up in flames. Luckily, I had a fire extinguisher right there... which didn't work... Fire extinguisher #2 from the house did.

The damage:

1x Driver's Seat
1x Seatbelt
1x Steering wheel (partly melted)
2x Windows (driver's and the one behind it)
All the labels for the driver's switches (wipers, lights, etc.)
All the wiring going to the rear lights
Misc small stuff (an outlet box, some insulation, etc.)

All together, the damage was fairly minor. I wanted to replace the destroyed stuff anyway. Unfortunately, I wanted to wait until next year and now I need to do it right away.

[Biscuitsjam]

Also, I have a few months before I go to Iraq again. The short-notice thing was squashed.

I'm trying to get the bus in decent shape prior to July vacation, with the expectation that I will have little time to fix it up between then and the mega-roadtrip leaving Alaska next summer.

[Sleddgracer]

Originally Posted by Biscuitsjam

Ever wonder how flammable your driver's seat is? One spark from the angle grinder, and it went up in flames. Luckily, I had a fire extinguisher right there... which didn't work... Fire extinguisher #2 from the house did.

The damage:

1x Driver's Seat
1x Seatbelt
1x Steering wheel (partly melted)
2x Windows (driver's and the one behind it)
All the labels for the driver's switches (wipers, lights, etc.)
All the wiring going to the rear lights
Misc small stuff (an outlet box, some insulation, etc.)

All together, the damage was fairly minor. I wanted to replace the destroyed stuff anyway. Unfortunately, I wanted to wait until next year and now I need to do it right away.

HOLY S****T!! - fire in an enclosed area like a camper or skoolie is something I have been concerned about, or at the very least, it's been in the back of my mind - something to think about for sure - a bus lined with plywood with it's flammable glue, cloth or plastic upholstery, foam insulation, tight quarters, especially in the dark, could be very serious - almost explosive

[Rovobay]

Man!!! those are not the pics of projects we like to see. That sucks. My biggest concern will be the wiring to get it running again. I hope you can get it all running again soon. best of luck!!!

[Biscuitsjam]

I started the bus, cranking it from the engine compartment, and I moved it about 50 feet. I know the lights are out, but I'm not sure what else is damaged with wiring. The total number of wires is probably about 40, and it's intact just enough to trace everything. I think I'll be ok on wiring - I'll just lose a few hours.

[tugboater]

Oh man...glad to hear nobody got hurt. Those photos are scary. Best of luck to you!