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Old 08-05-2013, 03:37 PM   #1
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Batteries

Hi, I have a question about batteries.

My bus wont start and I believe it is the batteries and I found an exact replacement, but I want to better understand what all these numbers mean....

The batteries I have are marked:
G65 850 CCA 160 Min RC

Can anybody enlighten me on what these things mean?
I understand G is group, CCA cold crank amps, Min RC reserve capacity. But what does this actually mean?

Thanks
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Old 08-05-2013, 03:40 PM   #2
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Re: Batteries

Lesson for today.

reserve capacity:
The number of minutes a battery can maintain a useful voltage under a 25A discharge. Reserve capacity is often a truer test of battery life than amp hours.

Group:
"group" is an indicator of size and power of a battery, 65 being a very common size.
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Old 08-05-2013, 03:44 PM   #3
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Re: Batteries

Quote:
Originally Posted by bbeenn88
Hi, I have a question about batteries.

My bus wont start and I believe it is the batteries and I found an exact replacement, but I want to better understand what all these numbers mean....

The batteries I have are marked:
G65 850 CCA 160 Min RC

Can anybody enlighten me on what these things mean?
I understand G is group, CCA cold crank amps, Min RC reserve capacity. But what does this actually mean?

Thanks
Here is some reading material

850 CCA
http://www.autobatteries.com/faq/index.asp


G65
http://www.rtpnet.org/~teaa/bcigroup.html

160 Min RC
http://all-about-lead-acid-batteries...erve-capacity/
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Old 08-05-2013, 03:47 PM   #4
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Re: Batteries

Yes teacher, just what we need home work
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Old 08-05-2013, 04:57 PM   #5
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Re: Batteries

Before shelling out for new batteries make sure they're actually to blame. Could be a bad alternator or a phantom draw that's draining them/it.

Most of the chain auto parts stores will load test them for free.
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Old 08-05-2013, 05:20 PM   #6
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Re: Batteries

Quote:
Originally Posted by wmkbailey
Yes teacher, just what we need home work
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Old 08-05-2013, 05:44 PM   #7
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Re: Batteries

thank you everyone for the advice and the reading.


Quote:
Originally Posted by roach711
Before shelling out for new batteries make sure they're actually to blame. Could be a bad alternator or a phantom draw that's draining them/it.

Most of the chain auto parts stores will load test them for free.
roach, I put them on a battery charger and one of them doesnt go any higher then 10 percent charged and the other doesnt go higher than 74 percent. both read a voltage of 12.1 to 12.6. to me this seemed like they werent holding a charge? Ill have them checked before buying new ones anyway I guess.
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:42 PM   #8
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Re: Batteries

Each cell should be 2.1 so 12.6 would be "perfect and relaxed"

I would check water level,put them on a low charge 1 or 2 amps for a couple days (the 3 and 4 stage chargers do work better)

Let them rest,check water and recharge low for a couple days

Process takes about a week,then they will be good,bad or ugle...plates corroded together etc.

Also "urban legend" but but go ahead and put them on a pc of wood or anything that will isolate possible discharge water from finding earth ground

40/80 wt solar panels and a 3 or 4 stage charger works just as good as a dedicted 120v charger

Good luck and let us know what you find
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:26 AM   #9
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Re: Batteries

Here's what our guys use in the shop: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... ir=catalog .

They're very quick and don't require the battery to be fully charged. Unfortunately, they're not inexpensive. It's best to know someone that has one instead of buying one yourself! I've wanted one of these for quite a while. Still haven't found the free cash to buy one. You can get other brands for about $225. For fleet service, they are a great tool. Almost made our battery room obsolete.
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Old 08-15-2013, 02:58 PM   #10
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Re: Batteries

Well, I tried the trickle charge on the existing batteries, it did not work.

I replaced the new batteries and it fired right up, ran it for about 20 minutes or so. This was two days ago I did that. Today I just went to start it and the lights go on but the motor wont turn over?
I am currently charging the new batteries and I will try again.

Im thinking what roach711 said is the problem, how do i know if it is the alternator not charging my batteries or if it is a phantom draw? and what exactly would a phantom draw be?
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Old 08-15-2013, 03:14 PM   #11
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Re: Batteries

Engine running voltage should be above 13.5V if your alt is charging.
If you can do it SAFELY, with the engine running, put a small wrench or screwdriver on the back of the alt, right in the center (where the rear bearing is), it will magnetically "stick" if its charging.

Get a volt meter on your batterys, have someone try to start it and watch your voltage!! If it drops to less than 9V, you have dead/bad batterys. If it dosent drop, bad starter/solonoid or a wireing issue.
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Old 08-15-2013, 03:16 PM   #12
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Re: Batteries

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooter141
Engine running voltage should be above 13.5V if your alt is charging.
If you can do it SAFELY, with the engine running, put a small wrench or screwdriver on the back of the alt, right in the center (where the rear bearing is), it should magnetically "stick" if its charging.
I put the battery meter on the battery itself when testing for the 13.5 volts Right? And im guessing it does not matter which battery i place the probes on?

Im pretty sure I can safely do your alternator test, I will charge the second battery and try it again.
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Old 08-15-2013, 03:20 PM   #13
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Re: Batteries

Quote:
Originally Posted by bbeenn88
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooter141
Engine running voltage should be above 13.5V if your alt is charging.
If you can do it SAFELY, with the engine running, put a small wrench or screwdriver on the back of the alt, right in the center (where the rear bearing is), it should magnetically "stick" if its charging.
I put the battery meter on the battery itself when testing for the 13.5 volts Right? And im guessing it does not matter which battery i place the probes on?

Im pretty sure I can safely do your alternator test, I will charge the second battery and try it again.
Doesnt matter which battery you have the test leads on.
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Old 08-15-2013, 03:23 PM   #14
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Re: Batteries

Quote:
Originally Posted by bbeenn88
I put the battery meter on the battery itself when testing for the 13.5 volts Right? And im guessing it does not matter which battery i place the probes on?

Im pretty sure I can safely do your alternator test, I will charge the second battery and try it again.

Make sure your wrench is ferrous metal or it wont magnitize!!!
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Old 08-15-2013, 03:28 PM   #15
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Re: Batteries

also if it doesn't read above say 13.0 turn your headlights on...my alt. doesn't charge when batteries are charged and no load on them less strain on the mighty HP ratings of my engine
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Old 08-15-2013, 04:02 PM   #16
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Re: Batteries

Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyChow
...* Still haven't found the free cash...
When you find that free cash, how about posting where you found it at. I've been looking for some and I am apparently looking in all the wrong places. I need better places to look.
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Old 08-15-2013, 09:05 PM   #17
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Re: Batteries

well now after charging the batterys again it will not start. doesnt even try to turn over. im thinking starter or solenoid?
and im really not that sure how the heck to get the starter out, through the dog door theres not enough room and through the hood it doesnt appear to be enough room either. any incite?
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Old 08-15-2013, 10:32 PM   #18
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Re: Batteries

Quote:
Originally Posted by bbeenn88
well now after charging the batterys again it will not start. doesnt even try to turn over. im thinking starter or solenoid?
and im really not that sure how the heck to get the starter out, through the dog door theres not enough room and through the hood it doesnt appear to be enough room either. any incite?
Is the solonoid mounted to the starter or is it a whole seperate animal?

If its not mounted to the starter, you can take pliers or screwdriver and short the two posts with the big wires on it together. CAREFULL!!!!! If the solonoid is junk, IT WILL START!!! Or take a test light and see if your getting power out of the solonoid to the starter. Of the two big wires, 1 will be 12V all the time, the other will only be 12V when the key in START position only.

If the starter/solonoid are combined, try smacking it with a whammer..... Not real hard, but give it 3-4 good swats.
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