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08-19-2020, 05:02 PM
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#61
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,856
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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What EastCoastCB said ... plus the screws will pop out with the claw-end of a pry bar. One good thrust and they go flying ... so wear your eye protection.
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08-21-2020, 11:16 AM
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#62
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Stanardsville, Virginia
Posts: 165
Year: 2006
Coachwork: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 30
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I have my first look at all the rust. Ewe. All the wood is out except one pice I’m not sure what to do with. There are 4 huge bolts in it that are holding up a large bank of dabs under the bus. My only option I think is to cut off sections around them and leave part of the gross wood in place.
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08-21-2020, 11:23 PM
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#63
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,856
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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Take a look at the underside of the bus at the driver side rear ... right where that last bit of wood is located. This will tall you if you can remove it or what you might be able to do to remove it.
My opinion ... get rid of ALL of the old messy rotted wood!
You may find that there is an easy solution once you go looking.
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08-22-2020, 01:13 AM
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#64
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 578
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP ER
Engine: CAT 3126
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I bet those bolts are for your AC condensers, I've got a bus with that type of bolt in the same area as my condensers. Might be worth getting the systems evacuated (the R134a fittings will be the same as a car), then dropping the condensers to remove the bolts, before reinstalling later once you get your floor fixed up. This method will require you to replace the AC filters and driers due to moisture exposure, but they probably needed to be changed anyway. Presuming you want to keep the factory AC, personally I would.
Out of complete curiosity, what number was that bus?
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08-22-2020, 08:42 AM
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#65
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,837
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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be careful with those air conditioner bolts.. the units may just hang from the floor in which case you can pull the wood and let them drop down then tighten the nuts on the underside.. however they may be also anchored to the bus skirting in which case you may bend the skirt or damage the air conditioner by just droppiung it down.. in those cases you put a jack under the condensor and then pull the wood and tighten up the nuts , the bolts shouldnt pull theroug hthe floor unless its really rusty.. if it is i would jack the condensors, pull the bolts and install fender washers to distribute the weight..
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08-22-2020, 09:44 AM
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#66
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Stanardsville, Virginia
Posts: 165
Year: 2006
Coachwork: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 30
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It was number 624. I got it at M&M salvage in Ruckersville. I’m definitely keeping the factory AC. It works great
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08-22-2020, 12:40 PM
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#67
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 400
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Great Progress !
You should get the last of the wood if you can. If you are anything like me it will bug you forever if you don't.
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08-22-2020, 01:58 PM
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#68
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Stanardsville, Virginia
Posts: 165
Year: 2006
Coachwork: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 30
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Agh, I know. It bugs me already.
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08-27-2020, 05:34 PM
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#69
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Stanardsville, Virginia
Posts: 165
Year: 2006
Coachwork: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 30
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First hatch has been removed!!! Took sooo long with all my mistakes. But, one is down.
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08-27-2020, 06:17 PM
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#70
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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You're doing so well!
Rock on!
Getting those leaky hatches out is a very good thing.
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08-27-2020, 06:34 PM
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#71
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Kansas
Posts: 143
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 12v
Rated Cap: 60
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Keep going you are doing great.
A hammer and a bar would get that last wood out then you can just retighten the nuts.
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09-16-2020, 04:27 PM
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#72
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Stanardsville, Virginia
Posts: 165
Year: 2006
Coachwork: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 30
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Rust conversion is done. I used 2 Ciara of the chemicals. We took advantage of the cooler temps today and started removing decals and reflective strips. We used a combination of a heat gun and a drill with an eraser wheel. One side of the bus is done.
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09-19-2020, 11:42 AM
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#73
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Stanardsville, Virginia
Posts: 165
Year: 2006
Coachwork: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 30
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Painted the floor with a coat of rustoleum thus morning. I’m digging the color! Next step, subfloor.
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09-20-2020, 12:04 AM
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#74
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,856
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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Ooooooh, that blue looks nice on the floor!
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09-20-2020, 06:37 AM
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#75
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Looking good! I painted most of my floor the safety yellow but my cab area up front got the safety blue like this (I'm not going to post the Eiffel 65 song again, don't worry). For whatever reason, it seems like the blue covered completely in one coat while the yellow always required two coats. So, good choice and not just for aesthetics.
If possible, I'd recommend leaving your paint job to cure for at least a week before putting anything on top of it. I waited about three days before I put my cab plywood down on top of it, but when I took some of the plywood back up to correct a fitting mistake I'd made, a lot of blue paint came up with it.
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09-24-2020, 06:29 AM
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#76
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Stanardsville, Virginia
Posts: 165
Year: 2006
Coachwork: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 30
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So after a 5 day break we measured out and layed down the foam board insulation. Now we have to wait again to put in the plywood. Rain is coming our way and we have nowhere inside to cut wood. These are the days I wish I had a garage.
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09-24-2020, 10:09 AM
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#77
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Looking good. You're doing a floating floor?
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09-24-2020, 10:56 AM
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#78
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Stanardsville, Virginia
Posts: 165
Year: 2006
Coachwork: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 30
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Yes. I like the idea of the floating floor. Plus this isn’t my permanent home. It will be for camping trips and a mobile storefront. I may have gone a different route otherwise.
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10-02-2020, 08:02 PM
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#79
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Central Alabama
Posts: 544
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 12-valve
Rated Cap: 1
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I see the insulation on the painted floor but what is your layering going to be and have you decided on the finished floor?
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10-02-2020, 08:48 PM
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#80
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Stanardsville, Virginia
Posts: 165
Year: 2006
Coachwork: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 30
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It’s a floating floor. Insulation, plywood and vinyl floor tiles
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