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02-10-2016, 12:07 PM
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#101
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 12
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To get exactly an 18" drop over 136", you need a 7.6 deg angle. So these cuts would need to be 3.8 deg on either side of vertical.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tippyman
How I plan to notch the frame:
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I can't imagine you'll want to or are able to be that accurate so some rounding would be fine. A 7 or 8 deg angle will put the tail 27.4" and 25" off the ground respectively, in case you want to lean toward more clearance or a lower load lip.
I'm curious about the fish plate. That shape looks like it has some thought behind it. I don't know anything about welding in that regard so I would have just made a rectangular plate to weld in. Why the holes, and why the diamond shape?
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02-10-2016, 04:03 PM
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#102
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Almost There
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: VA
Posts: 82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdlong
I'm curious about the fish plate. That shape looks like it has some thought behind it. I don't know anything about welding in that regard so I would have just made a rectangular plate to weld in. Why the holes, and why the diamond shape?
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It's not my design. I did research on it and that's how the majority of welding websites did it. You want rounded edges to eliminate stress points. The holes are to allow plug welds for extra welding surface. Maybe Jolly Roger can chime in.
Anywho, thanks for the help with the math!
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02-10-2016, 04:17 PM
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#103
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 12
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I figure it was something like that.
No problem, it was 5 minutes in AutoCAD.
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02-10-2016, 04:50 PM
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#104
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: North carolina
Posts: 651
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford
Engine: Detroit 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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Good afternoon, got home early today. The plug holes are a deffinet and I would recommend 1" minimum holes to allow you room to create a circle the plate/then fill the hole in and just because you have a wire welder don't Meen you can just fill the hole do overlapping beads until you get down to a 1/8 as the wire manufacturer's spec says what that wire will cover. The holes in the plate is because even after you weld the plate the weakest point in that plate is in the field/towards the middle of the plate so you drill(pop holes with a torch) to help secure the middle of the plates but you don't want the welds in the same plane as the frame if that makes any sense to you. Fish plates.
I am not the welding society but I would use a solid piece of steel thicker than what the bus frame is and cut for the angle of the dangle you need at least 4-6 minimum overlap of the frame reconstruction welds and use plates that match the frame minus a little shy width wise if needed. My bus frame has rounded edges on the channel iron frame if yours does cut your plate just a little shy to fit the rounded edges and( just cause I am a pressure piping welder) especially with wire until you can really get used to it I would reccomend 2weld passes on each weld 1 that is smaller not shorter to get into the root of the two pieces of steel and one to cover the first and if you want a third to flush everything out then it can only help.
Even my best welder's in a shop situation with a mig/tig setup will do 3 passes (root,hot,cover) but that is all we know with the ARC we do daily. Even trailer axles that I have done I was taught to drill a hole all the way through the spindle sleeve about 3" in from the end of the spindle and weld them solid a little during to help true the spindle and after to make them solid and we have lost many a rim and tire but never an axle.
I can agree with rounding the corners of the plate but is only because the welder can keep moving in his position instead of having to stop and reposition (which traps slag,air pockets) in the weld unless you clean and grind everytime you stop.
More important Tippyman I don't know what your welding skills are but the bests of the best always weld UPHILL or into the weld. Not downhill or away. That always traps slag and air pockets into any weld unless your experienced and know to look for it and back up and cover each little thing.
I am not the welding society and these are just my opinions and advice.
DO NOT WELD ON HEAT TREATED STEEL AND IF YOU DO ASK FOR ADVICE AND DON'T TELL YOUR INSURANCE COMPANY YOU DID IT.
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02-10-2016, 05:11 PM
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#105
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: North carolina
Posts: 651
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford
Engine: Detroit 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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Tango, give me a little more info on what exactly you want to weld on? I have a grandfather in law in ROBSTOWN/corpus that retired as a welder from the oilfield a while ago and he grew up with the era of vehicles. A little info. A phone call from me. Maybe I can get y'all together or at a minimum I can gat advice (tough man to deal with ) but he likes me everytime I talk to him cause of my welding skills and the first time we met years ago he took me into his full shop to see if I could weld and he has always asked to talk to me when we/they call even though I am in N.C.
Old sidewinder close to you that can weld anything.
Give me a little more info and I will ask for advice and either send you his address and number or respond myself
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02-10-2016, 11:40 PM
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#106
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Thanks Jolly --- Biggest problem is I have no idea what the steel is like. I've been told that the older frames are not heat treated and are meant to flex a lot. Was also told that welding could harden the work area and cause cracking due to heating and rapid cooling. Another chap recommended preheating, welding, then a long controlled cool down. Kinda' like what you have to do with cast iron on old axles and such. That should work, but only if the metal has not been heat treated. If it is (was) heat treated, then the the heat, weld and quick cool with oil trick ought to work. as far as I can tell.
But since I can't seem to find any info on the metal, I am stuck at just guessing. Not a good idea when it comes to something like the frame I don't think. Really need to figure out for sure what the steel is like before going any further but have had no luck nailing it down.
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02-20-2016, 05:07 PM
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#107
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Almost There
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: VA
Posts: 82
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05-29-2016, 10:20 AM
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#108
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Almost There
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: VA
Posts: 82
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05-29-2016, 11:24 AM
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#109
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NUNYA
Posts: 4,236
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: 3800
Engine: DT408, AT545
Rated Cap: 23 500 gvw
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Looks good. Just be careful when you are turning.
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05-29-2016, 02:17 PM
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#110
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Nice job. That plasma torch makes it look like a jig saw cut. Need one of those. Nice pics too.
Is the wooden part going to fold up against the back end eventually? I like the way that jeep fits in there against the bus wheel wells.
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Robin
Nobody's Business
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05-29-2016, 02:18 PM
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#111
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Where did you get those fancy bus wheels? I like shiny.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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05-29-2016, 02:20 PM
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#112
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Almost There
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: VA
Posts: 82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
Is the wooden part going to fold up against the back end eventually? I like the way that jeep fits in there against the bus wheel wells.
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Nah, it'll stay the way it is. The jeeps wheels go all the way to the wheel tubs, but my racecar would hit the bumper on the wheel tubs. So the racecar actually sits further back than the jeep does.
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05-29-2016, 02:22 PM
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#113
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Almost There
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: VA
Posts: 82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
Where did you get those fancy bus wheels? I like shiny.
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Came with the bus. 😁
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08-18-2016, 07:12 PM
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#114
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Almost There
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: VA
Posts: 82
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08-20-2016, 08:13 AM
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#115
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Almost There
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Mount Victory, OH
Posts: 85
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I like how everything is turning out. I have a diesel YJ. I wanted a LJ but couldn't find any LJ's that was in my price range. I enjoyed reading your bus build. Keep us updated.
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08-20-2016, 09:47 PM
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#116
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: St Louis Metro
Posts: 110
Year: 1978
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: Lifeguard
Engine: 366 Chevy
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I'm glad I bought mine with the dovetail already done. Don't think I could have done it myself.
Funny you should mention the racecar... I just bought a front lip splitter for mine, and didn't realize till I got it that it extends almost 4" out front. With my garage so small, it might not fit now.
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10-26-2016, 09:41 PM
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#117
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Almost There
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: VA
Posts: 82
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10-26-2016, 11:31 PM
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#118
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Almost There
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Canada eh?
Posts: 99
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Corbeil - RAMROD
Chassis: IH 3800 66 Pass
Engine: 7.3 IH IDI NA w AT545 hyd
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Sweet build - I'm diggin it! Any idea how long it will take you to finish? I'm just over two months into my toy hauler and with a full time job and doing an intense course as well, I've been busy to say the least.
Lucky for me I don't have anything else slowing me down except the weather which is starting to get a lot colder quickly. Canada, it does that sometimes :P
I'm hoping I can get the bus closer to home soon, then work on it often in evenings and weekends to speed up the progress. Plus I'll have skilled friends more willing to help when it is close by.
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10-29-2016, 02:13 PM
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#119
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Almost There
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: VA
Posts: 82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slidewayzm5
Sweet build - I'm diggin it! Any idea how long it will take you to finish?
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Thanks man! Honestly I've slacked off a lot lately, kinda lost the fire so to speak. I'm not sticking to any kind of schedule or expectation.
Today I got one more panel cut and burned on! Super professional cutting jigs were used. Try not to be jealous.
Done with one more for today. One more to go. I'll actually have to make template for this one, which is mildly annoying.
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10-30-2016, 07:46 PM
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#120
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Almost There
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: VA
Posts: 82
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Got the last panel up for the back wall!
Template made:
Cardboard, woohoo!
Notched the top ribs so the panel would fit underneath.
Like so...
Cut the metal out using a set of really expensive (totally not broken rims) saw horses.
(Notice the burnt driveway. Plasma is no joke!)
Set into place and burned on!
Couldn't quite reach the top of the sheet with the 10' cable on my welder, and its waaay to heavy to lift onto the bus by myself, so I improvised a truly impressive rig.
After it was all welded up I trimmed the windows that met the back wall. The "flange" that bolts the window down was too wide with the new wall in place. Big flange:
Trimmed flange:
After it was all together, I set the A/C unit in and tested it out. Even without insulation it cooled down quick in this 80* October day.
View from the inside:
Next I'll seal up windows and seam seal the back wall to hopefully make this tin can waterproof. Then paint the inside to stave off any rust. Then work on the frame some more...
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