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Old 02-26-2017, 08:09 AM   #41
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: New York
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Year: 2005
Entry Wall & Head & Shower & Paneling

The entry wall is now up. I didn't have my level with me, so this was fun... I framed it up, and used sheathing on the outside. I filled the wall with 2-1/2 inches of insulations. The doorway is REALLY tight. I am ok with it. I am a big guy, but I feel comfortable moving through it.

I was originally going to put a sink the bathroom, but decided to just make it a head. Just a closet with a light, a plug, and a composting toilet. DONE. This gave me the room for a 60 Inch shower. Yes! Remember... I am a big guy. I like having room in the shower.

I used some fake-wainscoting panels to cover the walls. Adds to the homey feel, and to the texture and depth of the windows.
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Old 02-27-2017, 07:11 AM   #42
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Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
What is the width on your doorway to the driver's area? You're killing off a lot of natural light as well as cold. Getting a couch or counter top is going to be fun.
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Old 02-27-2017, 07:58 AM   #43
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What is the width on your doorway to the driver's area? You're killing off a lot of natural light as well as cold. Getting a couch or counter top is going to be fun.
Not a problem. I made sure I can get everything through the front, or through the back. The front door is super small. Maybe 20". I can get mattresses through there, no problem. Fridge, cabinets, and everything else... come through the back door. I built it to accommodate standard kitchen cabinets.
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Old 02-27-2017, 08:32 AM   #44
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Coachwork: Blue Bird
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Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Not a problem. I made sure I can get everything through the front, or through the back. The front door is super small. Maybe 20". I can get mattresses through there, no problem. Fridge, cabinets, and everything else... come through the back door. I built it to accommodate standard kitchen cabinets.
Once built out, you won't need to move cabinets but couches and other large things might be an issue. Will the back door still be accessible? Might be too late now but you could hinge the wall and peg it at teh top and bottom to lock it in place.
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Old 02-27-2017, 08:39 AM   #45
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Once built out, you won't need to move cabinets but couches and other large things might be an issue. Will the back door still be accessible? Might be too late now but you could hinge the wall and peg it at teh top and bottom to lock it in place.
No couch in there. I am building a trundle bed. the front of that will be my couch. It is a queen under a king. Out 2 feet?... couch... out all the way?... king + queen mega bed... in all the way?... so much more room for activities.
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Old 03-15-2017, 09:47 AM   #46
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Wainscoting & Dimmers & Tongue-and-Groove

Not too many pictures for this one. I continued adding some of the paneling. those Home Depot 4X8 panels are easy to work with... and look great!

I wired up the switches. I have the lighting divided into 4 sections. All sections are on dimmers. 3 of the sections are 3-way, with switches near the kitchen. I wanted full control near my bedside/couch area, while still having basic on/off control from the kitchen. I still have my 3 ft wide lighting diagram, with labels on the diagram and wires. This made the wiring go super quick. I ran a home-run from the back of the bus (where all the wiring terminates) to the space directly next to the front door. This will be my master on/off. It will probably just be for the lighting, though I may add a 2nd switch that kills all noncritical outlets as well. We will see. So that is done.

I picked up (75) 10' Tongue & Groove Pine boards. Enough to cover about 280 sq ft. I believe they are sold as 1 X 5... actual 3/4 X 4-1/2. I got lucky. These boards were straight as an arrow. The yard let me hand pick them. They were SUPER dry. I was surprised to not find heavy frozen boards. Total cost... $312 That is $0.39/linear ft. I jumped on installed it immediately. I tossed one of my recessed LED's in place to test it. Everything worked out great. You can see the LED on in the background of the ceiling pic.

That is about it for now. Excited to finish the ceiling/oil it/install the lighting.
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Old 03-16-2017, 10:47 AM   #47
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Lighting

I used a hole-saw on my tongue and groove as I was installing it. The holes were perfect for the recessed lighting. The lights needed more room, so I had to drill through the interior skin of the bus. It was a pain, but went smoothly. I have 3 more holes to dill, and 3 more lights to install. I love how they look, though.
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Old 03-16-2017, 11:10 AM   #48
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I still have my 3 ft wide lighting diagram, with labels on the diagram and wires.
Keep that handy. when the time comes I'm going to want a copy!!

The gf's kitchen is wired wrong. Switch by the door and by the living room. If you turn the light off with the door switch, you have to turn it back on with that same switch. Drives me insane(r) but it's a rental so I'm not spending my time fixing their stuff. Already added a 20 amp circuit to the breaker box so I could run my MIG without popping the 15 amp breaker literally every 10 seconds.
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Old 03-17-2017, 08:27 PM   #49
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Finished Recessed Lighting

Finished the recessed lighting... tongue & groove will be finished tomorrow.
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Old 03-17-2017, 08:38 PM   #50
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That roof is looking pretty good. great work!

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Old 03-21-2017, 02:16 PM   #51
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Finished Ceiling/Lighting

I finished installed all the tongue and groove pine. I cleaned up the wiring and finished installing all the ceiling lights. Next will be to properly seal/finish the ceiling with either shellac or linseed oil. We will see.
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Old 03-21-2017, 03:46 PM   #52
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Very nice.

No ceiling fan?
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Old 03-21-2017, 04:50 PM   #53
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Very nice.

No ceiling fan?
I'll rig a unit that utilizes the current hatches. Or a vent in the rear wall. We'll see.
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Old 03-21-2017, 04:53 PM   #54
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Very nice.

No ceiling fan?
I'm also considering a super small central air and heat solution. But that is in early stages. Haha
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Old 03-21-2017, 06:04 PM   #55
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If I had a raised roof you can bet I'd have a ceiling fan in here. Even a ceiling hugger would give me a lobotomy in this bus.

What are you using for heat?
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Old 03-21-2017, 06:06 PM   #56
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Oh, you're talking about one of those mini-split systems? Yeah, that's a good choice. Sounds like you're going for the whole electrical system.
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Old 03-21-2017, 06:13 PM   #57
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If I had the headroom... a fan would def be in the plan. I may go with a mini-hvac. Could be fun.
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Old 03-21-2017, 06:50 PM   #58
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I think I'm going to find a very quiet smaller fan and attach it in one of the rear corners to mix the heat with the cold air. Getting heat won't be a problem much longer. I'd still like to get a split system unit particularly to cool while in hot humid areas that I'll run off of shore power or generator.
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Old 03-28-2017, 08:05 AM   #59
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Wainscoting & Rear wall

I finished up the wainscoting on the driver wall. This side was a little more complicated, but not difficult. Cutting out a ton of outlets and switches. No big deal. Happy to have it done. I installed the trim around the windows. Now I can fill holes and do some trim sanding... prep for paint.

I started the rear wall. I decided to sheath it in the tongue and groove material. A bit of an accent. I love the way it is coming out. The right and left openings will be recessed shelves. I haven't decided what they will be for, but I need to figure it out before I build them. 6"? 10"? 14"? Depends on the purpose... knickknacks? Books? Vinyl? I don't know. Either way, it is coming along nicely. Sure was fun cutting the ceiling T&G in a straight line. A circular saw above head is never comfortable situation... If it isn't, it should be.

Just a quick update.
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Old 03-28-2017, 08:15 AM   #60
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Love this interior.. but hanging light fixtures in a bus.. not so sure id do that.. they look cool as long as you dont get the school-bus-rock back N forth when you go slowly over a rough rail-track..
-Christopher
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