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Old 03-08-2016, 11:59 AM   #21
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Have you priced replacement/repair ribs from the manufacturer? I bought mine that way from Blue Bird and they were fairly inexpensive. WAY cheaper than a grand. Maybe $300 bucks for enough to cut and splice.

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Old 03-08-2016, 12:26 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by captblarney View Post
Just got a quote for making 26 36inch hat channels from 14 ga. The total estimate was just over $1000, which was more than what i was expecting. For folks who went the hat channel route, what did you pay?
The one complication is my hat channels are deeper than they are wide, so i had to search around a bit for a shop with the right break head, but i don't think that should affect the price that much.
I can have it made for the wholesale cost of the material.
LMK anyone in FL...
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Old 03-08-2016, 08:40 PM   #23
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I am planning my roof raise for this weekend. I was able to get 36 53" rectangular tube steel (2" by 1.5") for $100 from a steel yard an hour outside of Dallas. This gives me 7 inches of overlap on each end, and a 39 inch raise. I still need to purchase some 8 or 12 ft sections of 1" angle iron to use as trusses, but that should still be under $90. The only downsides are I have to build my counters around these beams which will be a little harder, and I will need to insulate them in a creative way. But I'm on a very strict budget and this will work without costing a lot.
Good luck on your raise, I look forward to seeing photos.
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Old 03-09-2016, 11:20 AM   #24
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In the discussion about roof raise steel it looks like folks were paying about a third of the estimate i got. Looks like i need to find a new shop (or a new approach).

Anybody in AZ have any suggestions for a fabrication shop with an offset or gooseneck break head?

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f10/ro...ion-11915.html
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Old 03-10-2016, 07:07 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captblarney View Post
In the discussion about roof raise steel it looks like folks were paying about a third of the estimate i got. Looks like i need to find a new shop (or a new approach).

Anybody in AZ have any suggestions for a fabrication shop with an offset or gooseneck break head?

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f10/ro...ion-11915.html
How soon are you doing it? I will be in Alabama tomorrow and could get an estimate from the metal shop there. I won't be home until may though...
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Old 03-10-2016, 10:15 PM   #26
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I'll be raising the roof on mine in 3-4 weeks, thanks for the offer though. I like your approach of building it stronger than stock, especially when you consider the ribs will be walled over and inaccessible, you would never know you had a problem. I had considered fitting square tube inside and using the hat channel over the top but i think i'll be satisfied if i can just get the hc made in the next few weeks...
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Old 05-06-2016, 10:20 AM   #27
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Updates! Got the roof up. I'm satisfied with how it came together, there was a little movement once i cut it free, but not as much as I expected. I raised it 20'' in total.


I painted the hat channels which in hindsight, may have been a mistake. There would have been more sheer strength without the layer of paint in between the hat channels and the ribs. Thats my inexperience working with metal.


Fully cut


A look at the raise mechanism, mostly borrowed from nat's thread. I used the jack stand to support the scaffold when it had to be blocked up.


Just about there


A look at the doors, they came apart really nicely without having to damage the frame (much).



Putting the ribs in. Once I got it to height, the roof was sagging in the middle a little on the right side. I ended up securing both ends and then chasing the sag toward the middle, using a bottle jack here and there to get the correct height.




Profile



Ok roof raise, check. I still intend to solid rivet through both sheet metal, rib, and hat channel.
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Old 05-06-2016, 10:44 AM   #28
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Damn that's a lot of work.

Any good parts on that S&S or the boat beside you?
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Old 05-06-2016, 10:47 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Robin97396 View Post
Damn that's a lot of work.

Any good parts on that S&S or the boat beside you?
The lady who runs the storage unit said that boat may be 'permanently dry-docked'. I joke that when I drive the bus out of here, i'm taking the boat with me for the next project!
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Old 05-06-2016, 01:33 PM   #30
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That would be slick. The whole boat and trailer. I like the way you think.

I was thinking you could probably drop the tanks on that S&S without to much trouble.
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Old 05-13-2016, 11:05 AM   #31
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I'm currently replacing the batteries and have been doing a bit of research on 8D's vs group 31s

Here's a few links comparing/discussing.
Do I need two 1100 CCA start batteries? - iRV2 Forums
8D or Group 31 Batteries - School Bus Fleet Magazine Forums

The guys at the shop said to put back in whatever was in there to begin with but i'm not sure what that was. It looks like most of the AARE Cummins 8.3 busses on this site are using 2-8D's. Thats seems a bit much, but i think the school bus batteries were oversized to allow the bus to run the flashers, etc for a while and then start right up. The cummins 8.3 only needs 1500 CCA i believe, and from my research it looks like group 31s are more common for that engine on other platforms. It makes me think the 8D's were chosen more for their reserve capacity than their CCA.

Two 950CCA group 31s should be able to easily spin the engine, even in cold weather, plus they're cheaper, lighter (and less maintainance?). For these reasons, I'm leaning toward downsizing (if you want to call it that) to the group 31's.

For all you other BB AARE cummins8.3 folks, what is your battery configuration? Any reason not to go with the group 31's?

In other news i've been getting some welding lessons for a guy who has a welding shop next to where i keep the bus. Welder comes this weekend and I plan to rosette weld the hat channels i've installed to give some added strength. This weekend i'll also be reattaching my coolant line and creating some templates for the transition section and end cap.

Man this is fun!
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Old 05-13-2016, 11:50 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captblarney View Post
I'm currently replacing the batteries and have been doing a bit of research on 8D's vs group 31s

Here's a few links comparing/discussing.
Do I need two 1100 CCA start batteries? - iRV2 Forums
8D or Group 31 Batteries - School Bus Fleet Magazine Forums

The guys at the shop said to put back in whatever was in there to begin with but i'm not sure what that was. It looks like most of the AARE Cummins 8.3 busses on this site are using 2-8D's. Thats seems a bit much, but i think the school bus batteries were oversized to allow the bus to run the flashers, etc for a while and then start right up. The cummins 8.3 only needs 1500 CCA i believe, and from my research it looks like group 31s are more common for that engine on other platforms. It makes me think the 8D's were chosen more for their reserve capacity than their CCA.

Two 950CCA group 31s should be able to easily spin the engine, even in cold weather, plus they're cheaper, lighter (and less maintainance?). For these reasons, I'm leaning toward downsizing (if you want to call it that) to the group 31's.

For all you other BB AARE cummins8.3 folks, what is your battery configuration? Any reason not to go with the group 31's?

In other news i've been getting some welding lessons for a guy who has a welding shop next to where i keep the bus. Welder comes this weekend and I plan to rosette weld the hat channels i've installed to give some added strength. This weekend i'll also be reattaching my coolant line and creating some templates for the transition section and end cap.

Man this is fun!
I've been happy with my 2 cheap 31's. Many folks prefer them for various reasons.
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