Building my Fastlane

[Inner Love]

100th Post to my build thread. Before falling asleep last night, I envisioned how I would go about cutting into pieces the sheet steel ceiling, without cutting into the skeleton.

What is the best type of handheld power tool for this job, if I want to set a cut depth? I already have four angle grinders and one 3” cut off tool, which would be very awkward to use on the ceiling. Part of why it’s taking so long is not having the right tool or attachment.

[musigenesis]

I made the early mistake of cutting out my ceiling panels between the ribs (leaving the riveted-on strips on the ribs). I used an angle grinder with zip wheels to do it. It was a mistake because a) I ended up having to remove all the rivets anyway, and b) the zip wheels on the ceiling flung lots of bits of hot steel at the windows where they're now permanently embedded in the glass.

If you're going to do this for whatever reason, first make sure your windows are covered, and only use a zip wheel to cut out small starter triangles (you basically make two small cuts at right angles to each other, then use a pair of pliers to bend the flap back and forth until it breaks off). Then use electric shears (which will have no trouble with the 20 ga. headliner material) to do the rest of the cutting.

[Inner Love]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

I made the early mistake of cutting out my ceiling panels between the ribs (leaving the riveted-on strips on the ribs). I used an angle grinder with zip wheels to do it. It was a mistake because a) I ended up having to remove all the rivets anyway, and b) the zip wheels on the ceiling flung lots of bits of hot steel at the windows where they're now permanently embedded in the glass.

If you're going to do this for whatever reason, first make sure your windows are covered, and only use a zip wheel to cut out small starter triangles (you basically make two small cuts at right angles to each other, then use a pair of pliers to bend the flap back and forth until it breaks off). Then use electric shears (which will have no trouble with the 20 ga. headliner material) to do the rest of the cutting.

Thanks for the warning and method. I looked at electric shears at Home Depot today and Ryobi cordless offset shears (first choice) is currently out of stock in-stores and online. Then there’s Milwaukee, the buy-in for the cordless (I don’t already have a Milwaukee battery and charger) is nearly $400 out the door. I then looked at Milwaukee’s corded shears, and it’s more reasonable buy-in of $200. I’m hoping by the time I need the shears next week, Ryobi’s cordless offset shears will be back in stock. If not I’ll see if someone is selling theirs on Craigslist. Prefer cordless shears because I’ll be using them all over to build my HVAC system, which will include a wood burning cube stove, 2-stage evaporative cooler, heat exchangers and below deck propane cabinet venting. I already have HF hand shears, which don’t cut very well or fast even with low grade sheet steel.

Spent my afternoon in Home Depot, walked out with nothing after 1 1/2 hours with Fortiva customer 1 service, found out my card was locked and it takes 24 hours from unlocking to be able to make a purchase. Two hours of browsing and picking items, only to have to leave it all in the store because of a block I didn’t know existed. Will return to buy the items tomorrow evening.

When I came back home I used the remaining daylight with my 120 grit 3M sanding sponge to remove the layer of oxidized paint on the backside, as high as my arms will reach. Tomorrow I continue sanding.

Would have been nice to have a Skoolie Wiki article detailing what power tools, bits and attachments are best to complete steps efficiently, I could have bought these specific tools I needed when I was spending down my settlement check. After I’m living inside Inner Love, I’ll start a Wiki on Wikia as it’s free, then I’ll migrate it to a domain later. If someone wants to beat me to it, be my guest. Since the owners of Skoolie.net are not interested in improving the site or updating v-bulletin, only shifting the top shareholder from forum contributors to themselves / sponsored content affiliates.

[musigenesis]

These are the shears I have:

https://www.harborfreight.com/14-gau...ars-68199.html

If you're going to do a lot of sheet metal cutting, might be worth it to buy an extra set of blades and bushings, too, since it seems like HF won't be selling the shears any more:

https://www.harborfreight.com/swivel...ngs-96599.html

$200-400, yikes! Edit: ah, I see you're looking at cordless ones.

[Inner Love]

Didn't even consider HF for this, as this is one of those tools that is best bought for life.

Now that HF is an established player in the American tool market, having at least one store in each region in the 48 states, they don't need to offer such deep discounts as a marketing method. For those who haven't shopped HF recently, they have discontinued sending paper coupons ("due to COVID"), and only the Inside Track Club members get coupons. 20% offs and free item coupons may never return.

Those shears you linked are getting discontinued, because of their new product strategy. One-by-One discontinue the lowest end model (for less product liability and to eliminate product support costs per policy, saving the company money), make a slightly revised version under a new SKU, set the new price 10-20% higher.

The value proposition of HF is lowering with the new product and sales strategy the company is doing. HF Corporate knows their place in the market and the dangers of this strategy, just remember that their customers have the final say in their corporate strategy. I don't think they're going to raise prices to the point where their products are only 10% cheaper than elsewhere, as most tradesmen would just pay the 10% for real entry-level tools.

With this being said, I could buy their Bauer brand shears
(https://www.harborfreight.com/14-gau...ars-64609.html) for $20 more than the one that is being discontinued. If the Ryobi shears aren't back in stock when I need them, I'm going to HF.

Ryobi and Milwaukee are the two cordless tools brands I am going with. Multiple Project Farm tests have shown that Milwaukee has the highest average quality across their professional tool line. Ryobi is good enough for nearly everything I am doing, Milwaukee tools for tasks that demand performance, reliability and high durability.

Since I am no longer a frugal maximiser, I dollar cost average. For groceries I shop Walmart & Costco as they have the lowest average prices for what I buy. When my income / profit is upper 5, low 6 figures I'll no longer care about prices for things under $5 in general, and won't give a **** about grocery prices. My dream is to eat 85% organic, non-inflammatory, and non-GMO. The remaining 15% is reserved for parties and meals with other people. Most processed convenience foods I used to binge on don't appeal to me anymore.

[Inner Love]

Floor remediation will be done after returning from the Black Rock Desert, not for lack of time, lack of money. The lowest price I found for two gallons of coal tar epoxy was $158 shipped, from World Paint Supply. I have about $262 in my checking account, which needs to last the rest of the month.

Paint is almost finished. I just need to spend a few hours doing final prep on the hood and front face, as that’s the first thing I see when I pull into the driveway.

Insulation and Reg are critical, then getting that insurance paper (can only afford minimum RV insurance for the trip, I’ll drive carefully). Now that we’re back to $4 diesel, Expecting fuel budget to be $300, as IL has 3/4 of the tank left from driving it home. Mechanically I know it will make the trip, as the inspection in Oregon found no issues that needed immediate attention, and I drove it 800 miles home.

I’ll put duct tape on the holes (to prevent playa dust from coming through them), then cover the floor with a black plastic tarp for the trip, so we are not walking on surface rust, duct taped down. After returning I’ll have to remediate 8-10 feet at a time after move-in.

What are some affordable fluid / oil films I can spray onto moving parts, and is electrical safe? Is there a high drop point rust inhibiting / converting grease I can pack between lapped up metal? The black rock desert playa contains 7-9% salt content.

[Mountain Yawp]

I am thinking of using Fluid Film for my undercoating, but only if I am sure I can spray it on somehow.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004NDDCKK...ing=UTF8&psc=1

I think there is a thread somewhere on here discussing the product.

[Inner Love]

Entire bus is painted (albeit shabbier than I would like, I don’t have time or money to touch up before our trip in 6 weeks, but it will satisfy SDs RV reg requirement).

I unscrewed the center ceiling trim, panels above windows, exposing the 1000+ screws I am thankful are there in place of rivets.

I found out there are actually two continuous 30 feet corrugated sheets making up the ceiling, hidden by the center ceiling trim. These will be cut into 2 foot segments to fit onto the metal stock wagon.

I now have two tan suede couches that were put out on Allegan Circle, thanks Neighbor for taking time out of your day and your pickup truck so I could get them home. Nice soft cushions, and couch only needs to be shampooed.

My game plan is to unscrew these once hidden screws, leaving just the width-wise screws to keep the fiberglass in place and holding up the metal. Move everything too large to remove from the bus to the front. Remove as many items as I can from the bus. Then cover the cab area with moving blankets to minimize fiberglass settling. Then unbox my shears, set up my shop vac with 1” nozzle (pulls batting apart), place the outlet of the shop vac facing outward through the open back door, prep my other tools before finally donning my full protective gear and coveralls to remove the ceiling and fiberglass.

The ceiling comes down tomorrow.

[Mountain Yawp]

Nice work. I'm glad you got it painted. Few bus paint jobs done by owners come out as perfect as hoped.
My wife and I remind each other that "it's still a bus", meaning it doesn't have to be perfect.

[Inner Love]

Originally Posted by Mountain Yawp

Nice work. I'm glad you got it painted. Few bus paint jobs done by owners come out as perfect as hoped.
My wife and I remind each other that "it's still a bus", meaning it doesn't have to be perfect.

The problem was I wasn’t putting enough hours into the prep, and thus decided to do the detail work later.

I have standards, which I’ll have to gradually meet. On the inside, my initial build is going to look shabby and spartan, and I’ll be upgrading to what I actually want over time. Like, my initial electrical system is going to consist of extension cords and outlet boxes plugged into a generator, with two old AGMs that maybe have 40% of their capacity left for 12v LED strips and USB charging. The plumbing system is going to be like a base camps setup, until I can afford to do the PEX system and tankage, which is $1000 in parts and tools for the first 100 gallons of fresh and grey. This doesn’t include the pumps, level indicators, and below frame superstructure to support the tankage. I estimate the steel, consumables and equipment to build my below frame superstructure to be at least $2000, and I’ll be shopping around. All these costs are fine for a mobile dwelling, I’m just saddened by how unemployable I am due to a lifetime of parental emotional abuse.

[Doktari]

Useful information about the shears. I used metal cutoff zip wheels to cut a hatch once and would prefer electric shears after making the initial slice with a zip wheel. Yes, having all the tools before the conversion would be nice.
I started collecting Milwaukee cordless tools a couple years ago. Glad I made a good choice. Found the Milwaukee cordless angle grinder with battery on the side of the road. About a $250-$300 score.

[Inner Love]

Removed 400+ screws over the weekend and taped up white foam hardwood floor underlayment to the windshield (for privacy). Added cardboard behind door panes. The last thing I need is a thief casing my tools just by looking through the door panes, and making a date for a smash, enter and grab. They wouldn’t even need to cut the locks.

On the roof leak section, two screws would not turn even after applying over a minute of heat with a butane torch. Sunday night after 6 hours at work and multiple new-to-me tasks completed, I decided to convert them into flatheads using my cut off wheel. Not thinking about where the sparks would fly, I embedded at least a dozen of them into a one window, with two adjacent windows getting a few as well. I only remembered musicgenesis’s warning after I saw the black speckles in the window. Now I’ll have to carefully inject muriatic acid into those holes to dissolve everything but the glass, then fill them with a windshield crack filler. Unless it’s safety glass with plastic laminate in between, then I’ll have to replace it.

Each side of headliner is held up by the two inner screws on each rib, to make quick work of dropping the segments. I rerouted the extension cord to the right side, running it through the middle window (Inner Love has 11 windows), so I could branch the extension cords from the middle instead of the main tap being up front, and running an extension cord to the back. Put a loop in the cord to hang it from the wall. I also removed nearly everything including my roll behind Bluetooth speaker.

I then gameplanned my sequence (walls first, then right headliner, then left) before using a pencil to mark where the rough cuts are going behind the front seats and below the back windows. Once I don my full protective gear, I want to suck every wad of fiberglass from the back. Fiberglass removal is the #1 Nastiest job of the entire build, #2 was the rotten and moldy floor, #3 will be the rust remediation.

Feels great to make a major milestone tomorrow. Everything is downhill from here.

I am gaining a new set of skills which I can offer to other people who are willing to pay over a grand to avoid gutting their bus themselves (or skip to their perceived exciting part of buildout). “Skoolie Gutting - $1500”. I know 99% of skoolie.net members aren’t my target market, that is why I’ll advertise on Instagram. Before anybody jumps on me, there is nothing wrong or unethical in a mutual value exchange. Assuming a full gutting of 12 rows takes me 5 days and costs an average of $300 in consumables and incidentals, plus liability insurance, trip to site, credit card processing fees, and then at least a night of not being able to use my bedroom as it’s being used to haul away (I’ll sleep on the couch in the living room), I would profit just $200 per day, working up to 10 hours a day being paid after each milestone with $300 to start. As seat removal is a two person job and I don’t want the expense of hiring someone (which would make the hustle unviable), I would make jigs to core out boltheads. For something I now know how to do, making $20+ an hour on my own terms is an awesome first stage of being an Unscripted problemologist.

[Mountain Yawp]

Nice work. Your quoted price seems reasonable for bus gutting if you were willing to travel to the client's bus and do the work. More people are getting into bus conversion and may not want to to all the work, so the need for specialty services will go up. Likely will go down again if and when the economy takes a dive.

[Inner Love]

Originally Posted by Mountain Yawp

Nice work. Your quoted price seems reasonable for bus gutting if you were willing to travel to the client's bus and do the work. More people are getting into bus conversion and may not want to to all the work, so the need for specialty services will go up. Likely will go down again if and when the economy takes a dive.

If $1500 is what a client is willing to exchange for a gutted bus, then I’ll quote $1500. If it’s $2500, I’ll quote that. If it’s $1000 and it’s my first job, I’ll do that just to begin building a reputation. It’s all about mutual exchange, and for such a niche, specific service the domain experience I have skews value towards my offering. Travel to the site will depend on where it is. The first 75 miles is included in the quote, and I’ll take the shortest distance from me to them and charge $2 a mile one way. There is nothing unreasonable about a mutual exchange.

Today I woke up prematurely and suffered C-PTSD, which is worst on days I’m sleep deprived. Despite great sleep hygiene, clean sheets, and body pillows embracing me on both sides, I couldn’t get back to sleep. In this sleep deprived state just a vibration from my phone is enough for me to get hyper vigilant.

I ended up making tomato soup and a grilled cheese sandwich and fell asleep before 3 PM and slept until 6. Needless to say, I didn’t get to the final gutting. I can’t afford to be losing days like this!

During my build process I’ve recognized a lot of inner pain and resistance, and feel that is what happened subconsciously today. Still, the clock is ticking down to the middle of august. Tomorrow is gutting and the next day is preparing for the power wash.

[Mountain Yawp]

Loss of sleep can seriously alter my mood and motivation the following day.
During my bus build I have found that it is often full of highs and lows. Being in the middle of a difficult task or one that turns out poorly is an easy time to get discouraged, but then when the task is completed or something else gets finished and looks great, the internal sense of accomplishment can be huge.
Keep going.

[Inner Love]

I dropped the ceiling today. The respirator did it’s job as well as the electric shears. I breathed in some fiberglass as I didn’t have the upper straps tight enough. Hopefully the resin in the hash I smoke tomorrow will stick to some of it before it can embed itself deep.

The sheet metal below the windows I cut into squares as anything bigger gets unwieldy. It will all go onto my metal cart and be kept until the build is complete.

The fiberglass is still on the ceiling because I ran out of time before sunset. Will resume on Monday as I am going on a camping trip with friends.

I am keeping the seat rails on both sides as this is built-in structural anchoring. I may remove it later in the permanent build or just insulate over it. I will cut access below them using a 4 inch hole saw for the corners, then cutting to make a hole leaving 1-2 inch on each side.

Everybody is going to see this as a major milestone now as the interior looks fundamentally different.

Thermal bridging is a concern, which is why I am going to stick insulation to the exterior, adding inches on the roof. I’ll keep the roof seams accessible by not laying down foam over them, only on the last layer. This means if I ever have a roof leak, I only have to cut through one 1/2” piece of foam.

Is there a guide I can use to cut straight with electric shears? Very hard to keep a straight line, would like to use the shears for my finish cuts.

[Inner Love]

One more session of donning my full protective gear left. I removed and brushed off the ceiling fiberglass today. All I need to do is remove what’s behind the seat panel and rail.

Essential tools:
-$70 half face respirator (worth it)
-painters head sock (find in paint section of Home Depot).
-safety goggles (nothing special).
-painters coveralls (I bought mine used at HD Supply for $7, check your local contractors store).
-3” cut off angle grinder.
-3” hole saw (for making 4 corner holes which you’ll use the shear to make the cavity fully accessible)
-broom
-electric shears
-brass wire brush
-impact driver (if you lucky to have screws instead of rivets)
-way to shield windows from flying hot metal from angle grinder.

Nice to have tools which I’m going without:
-Cordless blower.
-Industrial size vacuum.
-Body saw.
-air buffeting gun.
-drill brush attachments.

What I’ll use in my bus gutting hustle (not everything):
-hooded tyvek suit with full face mask (for fiberglass removal).
-ducted air movers & filters (to keep fiberglass dust off clients property).
-Milwaukee shears, other Milwaukee tools where it makes sense.
-Air tools fed by 3 gallon pancake compressor.
-200 feet of rubber air line, and extension cords (powering from Inner Love when customer outlet isn’t available).
-Magnet mount diffuse LED lights.
-$10 drill bits.
-retractable extension cords
-foam rubber and moving blankets to keep customers bus unscarred.
-A/C ducted into customers bus while I work.
-Circular saw set to cut through rubber floor.
-seat caddy to easily stack and move several seats at a time.
-pinching jaws for stuck screws and bolts.


Downstream revenue / post removal value adds:
-find wholesale buyer for reclaimed dirty fiberglass insulation?
-find non-scrap ongoing buyer for seats and headliner / wall sheet metal or elements thereof.
-to minimize disposal fees, find buyer or taker of brittle rubber and potentially rotten subfloor.

Possible future services:
-insulation prep
-floor remediation and prep.
-post insulation structural wall building.



Fiberglass is nasty. My ideal client is one who would pay $1500 for this step alone.

[Inner Love]

The nastiest part of the entire build is now over. Today I am going to power wash away the fibers using Rain-X Spot Free Rinse car soap, not knowing what chemicals it will leave behind. Then I’ll fill a 1 gallon pump sprayer with Concrete and Metal Prep before the water dries, for max dispersion.

I’ll then making access to the lower cavity leaving 2-3” of lip below the seat rail (creating a 90 degree angle iron structural support), and 1 inch on the other 3 sides.

[Inner Love]

The coal tar epoxy arrives Thursday, which means I’m doing the floor before the trip. Since I have patches of flaking metal on the floor, another trip to Harbor Freight is needed for an air needler. Fingers crossed none of those flakes are hiding holes.

[Inner Love]

Lots of stuff happened in the last 4 months, I am almost to moving in. I have a lot to write down.

The red paint is the same paint used on the exterior (CV740 system, Safety Red, Rust-Oleum), the subfloor was glued down with Robert’s 2001 Felt-Back Vinyl Adhesive (https://www.amazon.com/Roberts-2001-..._df_B0026SXVNM), and the not-seen structural wood was liberally coated with deck sealer so it will never ever rot.

The rust on the floor was worse than expected. We used twisted wire wheels before (twisted wire wheels are better), holes were puddle welded, weld mounds were hammered down to make them flush with the floor. Shay worked on the bathroom, which was a process in itself which I documented.

Ceiling prep is next, and I’ve ordered this spray foam insulation kit as it can be shipped to California: https://tigerfoam.com/sprayfoaminsul...oard-foot-kit/. The working plan is to cut 1 1/2 inch rigid foam 1-2 inches smaller than the area of the cavities, put it foil side up with a bead of adhesive or double sided sticky foam (leaving an air gap), and then seal it in place with the closed cell spray foam. The buy-in cost of this is $750-900 depending on the cost of the foam boards and adhesives. If no 1 1/2 inch thick rigid foam is available, I can sandwich 1 inch to the 1 / 2 inch I already bought, creating another air gap in the cavities. Since I have less than an inch above my head with the floor installed, there will be panels of 1/4” real wood veneer, final installation of which will be glued up for a screw less finish. There’s going to be at least half the board feet left over, which I don’t want to waste, I’ll consider selling my half empty kit here for 1/3rd of what I paid.

Lights will be installed in the walls, with LED strips where the 45 degree meets the ceiling, angled up with triangle cut wood dowels. Cross wire runs will go underfloor, with raceways between the ribs every 6 feet, easily accessible on both sides, once the below frame superstructure and skirt doors are installed. It turns out there are rubber hinges used on coach bay doors, something I didn’t know existed before I spoke with Shay, who is a bus body man.

When it’s time to build the superstructure, the skirting will be removed, exposing the ribs and frame. This is when I will completely remediate the undercarriage and coat it all in 3 layers of coal tar epoxy as it will be easily accessible. I will insulate the floor between the rear wheels as well as add my exhaust modifications (greywater evap system). After all provisioning and improvements are done, the skirting will be modified and replaced with the rubber coach hinges and, to pop open the doors, will use a magnet in a secret location. I will lose 4-6 inches of ground clearance with this, but gain so much more.

Skoolie.wiki tried wiki.js, and despite being a stock wiki software install, was broken beyond usability. I am working on setting up invite-only editable Google Docs in the meantime. I chatted with Linuxhiker about it and he’s looking at a different wiki software yet again.