Building my Fastlane

[Rwnielsen]

I understand what you want to accomplish with the spray foam filling the air spaces, sounds like a good approach. That stuff is pricey at roughly $2 square foot by 1" thick

[Inner Love]

Originally Posted by Rwnielsen

I understand what you want to accomplish with the spray foam filling the air spaces, sounds like a good approach. That stuff is pricey at roughly $2 square foot by 1" thick

It is still expensive, but permanent. Well worth it for me.

I couldn’t afford the professionals $1800 quote for spraying, which didn’t include cleanup, prep. What I am doing is the next best thing, I’ll only be using the closed cell foam for sealing gaps and places too curved or inaccessible to place boards.

I just wish some company would make a 2-component version of this system, https://www.amazon.com/Enerfoam-30oz...dp/B092KJ7QGZ/. It would have saved me from buying a expensive kit.

The ceiling panels are cheap enough that I could replace one when it time to run wires. Since I’m am going for a clean look I will be gluing them up. Where I am boondocking the screws would become condensation collectors. I only have a max 3/4 a inch above my head barefoot, no space for furring strips in between. Please share different mounting methods.

[Rwnielsen]

I'm planning 3 distinct headliners...living area, kitchen and bedroom. The bedroom area with be fabric and possibly the living area too. I haven't figured out the kitchen yet as I like to cook so it has to be somewhat washable. There are a lot of adhesives available to secure paneling overhead without screws, you'd need to build some temporary supports that matched the contour of the ceiling to hold it snug while it dries/cures.
I have no solutions for taking it down to change, add, repair etc...

[PhilipE]

Originally Posted by Rwnielsen

you'd need to build some temporary supports that matched the contour of the ceiling to hold it snug while it dries/cures.

Build a small form for the ceiling. Then use a load lock to apply pressure.

If you don't know what a load lock is. Google those two words. They are used in box type semi trailers to lock a load from moving.

They are adjustable. They can apply a good amount of pressure. On the used market they are cheap.

[84chevyguyid]

good video on insulation. the 1/8th thick stuff seems to really make a big difference with no space lost.

https://youtu.be/hw1UpnSjLV0

[Inner Love]

I am going to put the 1/8" veneer up with 4 screws on each panel. Then I'll make little square caps for the screw heads.

After looking for a small close quarters drill, I found this one by Milwaukee: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...5-22/309495334
This one comes with 2 batteries and a charger, putting me into the Milwaukee M12 battery / charger system. I highly recommend this cordless drill kit, and would have bought it if I knew about it this time last year.

If you need tools, the holidays are the best time to buy as nearly every tool will go on sale between Black Friday and New Years Eve. I recommend Ryobi and Milwaukee brands for handyman-grade cordless tools.

I now have everything but the slow curing adhesive for putting the 1/2" boards up. Liquid Nails was out of stock at HD, I looked at concrete and vinyl floor adhesives, in tubes and buckets. I was overwhelmed at the selection, so I walked out with no adhesive.

I need a recommendation for a general purpose, silicone or non-silicone adhesive. I want to secure the shaped 1/2" foam squares permanently after 10 seconds to 1 minute of me pressing them up. Old me would ask for the least thermally conductive adhesive as I looked to minimize thermal bridging, and put the entire part of the build on hold as I stubbornly wait for an answer. The cheapest stuff will do here.

[Rwnielsen]

If you PM me a mailing address I'll send you a Milwaukee USB M12 battery charger. Has a plug in, 120v, adapter too.
It will only charge the standard M12 batteries not the 5mAh. I have no use for it and it's new.

[flattracker]

If space is an issue for you, maybe consider a Crown bus. With the mid engine setup you don't lose any floor space to it. If you find one with the Cummins engine, most of the parts are interchangeable from OTR trucks. They used Crowns in the bay area a lot, also Salinas and King City. There is a truck shop in Salinas that worked on my first Crown. Plus no other bus looks like a Crown (Gilligs were close though). With a flat or curved nose bus you don't have to look over the nose to see in front of you.
I admit I am biased towards Crowns.

[Inner Love]

Originally Posted by flattracker

If space is an issue for you, maybe consider a Crown bus. With the mid engine setup you don't lose any floor space to it. If you find one with the Cummins engine, most of the parts are interchangeable from OTR trucks. They used Crowns in the bay area a lot, also Salinas and King City. There is a truck shop in Salinas that worked on my first Crown. Plus no other bus looks like a Crown (Gilligs were close though). With a flat or curved nose bus you don't have to look over the nose to see in front of you.
I admit I am biased towards Crowns.

Thanks for the advice, Crowns are cool. A Crown may be my second Skoolie.

After two visits to Home Depot, 30 minutes of YouTube videos, and an hour comparing adhesives in the aisle, I bought this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Alex...8425/100634323

Obviously, tomorrow I'll make a test piece. Hopefully it works so there are no more unknown unknowns.

[LargeMargeInBaja]

Originally Posted by Inner Love

...I plan to travel...a net worth of 5 million dollars or more (pentamillionaire)...

.
a)
re -- travel plan
.
* Some 'passport' requirements are popping-up -- and changing -- hourly.
* Transitioning some boundaries between cities, between counties, between buildings, might require mother-may-I docs.
* Some folks anticipate lessened availability of fuel due to chip shortages and passport requirements dujour.
.
All my lead-up is heading toward this:
* What is the Plan B, C, D if you are prevented from travel?
.
.
b)
You could turn into a multi-billionaire by this time next week... just exchange some of your current fiat currency for the fiat currency of Zimbabwe.
Fact is, in Zimbabwe, most folks are trillionaires.
.
.
c)
I am positive your peculiar vehicle requirements are available.
In the meanwhile, for your visits to likely-sounding candidates, how about renting a bus conversion?
This might offer some ideas about interior lay-out, components, appliances, size, and a whole host of other possibilities neither you nor I would consider until we are knees-deep in the doing.
.
.
Our hx:
2003, my Very Significant Other got sick.
Naturally, we acquired a 1996 Ford CF8000 commercial truck to convert to our concept of an ExpeditionVehicle
Within a week of diagnosis -- while selling everything -- we completed our conversion and hit the road.
.
Our Big Plan never included a life-altering sickness, never included selling everything, never included any hint of summers up rough logger tracks to remote mountain lakes nor trundling across deserts for winters on isolated Baja beaches.
.
Our Big Plan never included a couple-three dozen caravan chums we dearly love and desperately miss each second we are apart.
.
Our Big Plan never included rescuing two stranded motorcyclists in a snow storm, then years later, becoming best buds with rascally members of an outlaw motorcycle club.
.
Prior to the diagnosis, we thought we would spend our evenings after work couching and hibernating until our next day at work.
.
These days, Our Big Plan centers around holding hands while watching the sunrise.
Singing and story-telling around the camp-fire.
Foraging the coast for intriguing fresh foods.
Building bonds with righteous folk.
.
And offering opinions to random individuals on WorldWideWeb forums.

[Inner Love]

So I am still without a grease or oil recommendation for lapped up sheet metal. Basically what oil / grease is completely inert and -never- breaks down? It can be synthetic or natural. Something with a consistency of smooth butter would be ideal, I can spread or pack it in then melt it with a heat gun. It will be forever in the walls, as a last line of defense against corrosion.

Other than the salt flats, I will be spending lots of time in humid coastal areas with salt air.

Other than that, I have everything and know my method to prep my inner walls, and insulate. I’m just going to use half inch self drilling screws to install my 1/8” ceiling panels (without any furring strips as my hair will brush the ceiling with shoes on).

[Inner Love]

I came into an unexpected problem. The flex in the sheetmetal when walking on the roof. I dont want to walk on the roof and break the wooden ceiling veneer after I’ve completed interior build. I’m shocked that the center sheet of the roof has such flex at the centers of the squares of the Wayne bus body skeleton. It flexes 3/4” in a couple squares when someone stands with their feet in the center of the squares.

I am going to put 3M double sided foam adhesive to secure the skin to the skeleton, to eliminate rattle. Can I please get feedback on doubling and triple this up to tension the skin, then filling the gaps with silicone? I could also tension 1/4” rods through the skeleton as it won’t get in the way of my insulation method.

[Inner Love]

I used to use Photobucket to share my photos, then the site got too slow and cumbersome to use. What is your favorite free / cheap image hoster?

[Inner Love]

I just applied some Liquid Nails (heavy duty, at Home Depot for $3.29 where I live) between two of the foam board. It tacked instantly, and if it doesn’t bond in 24 hours, then I need recommendations on cheap adhesives that bond to isocyanoacrylite rigid foam. I’ve searched YouTube already, and the products recommended are specialist and unviably expensive.

What worked for you?

I really liked the vinyl floor adhesive I spoke of earlier in my thread, I don’t want to buy a bucket of it to find out it doesn’t adhere my foam. There has to be a bucket of adhesive something that will work and isn’t a moisture collector.

[Inner Love]

Originally Posted by Inner Love

I just applied some Liquid Nails (heavy duty, at Home Depot for $3.29 where I live) between two of the foam board. It tacked instantly, and if it doesn’t bond in 24 hours, then I need recommendations on cheap adhesives that bond to isocyanoacrylite rigid foam.

It tacked instantly. I pulled it apart after 5 hours mistakenly, and saw the outside dried, but the inside still uncured. It tacked even after I broke it apart. 3 days later, the inside is still uncured. I applied it to both the foil film and plastic film on the foam board. I will get better results by peeling the printed film.

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

look into 3m or durodyne duct board spray glue and stick pins.
i can get you pictures of all from work tomorrow

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

also chil-perm 30/50 and similar lagging adhesives.

[Inner Love]

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223

look into 3m or durodyne duct board spray glue and stick pins.
i can get you pictures of all from work tomorrow

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223

also chil-perm 30/50 and similar lagging adhesives.

Interesting finds.

I found DAP DYNAGRIP 10.3 oz. Foamboard Construction Adhesive (Model # 7079827519) and Fasade Double Sided Tile Decorative Wall Tile Adhesive Tape (Model # B49-02) on the Home Depot website. Why the DAP didn't show up when googling "rigid foam board adhesive" with several variations I won't know.

I do want to see pictures from your work before I place an order for these. The stick pins sounds interesting. The 3m / Durodyne duct board spray glue and chil-perm sounds over-complicated and expensive. Are the stick pins some kind of double ended push pin, to anchor sheets of rigid foam together?

The working plan is to shape the 1/2 inch foam board in place with the double sided tape, with beads of the DAP foamboard adhesive. The double sided tape will stick instantly, holding the bent foam up and tight while it cures. I don't plan on having any bracing to hold the formed foam up as it's curing as the tape should hold it together after pressing for 10 seconds.

[Rwnielsen]

The working plan is to shape the 1/2 inch foam board in place with the double sided tape, with beads of the DAP foamboard adhesive. The double sided tape will stick instantly, holding the bent foam up and tight while it cures. I don't plan on having any bracing to hold the formed foam up as it's curing as the tape should hold it together after pressing for 10 seconds.

That sounds like a good plan to me

[Inner Love]

I found and solved my biggest inner resistance to working on my bus, the fact that even with my respirator, I was still breathing in toxicants because the seal isn't perfect. I solved this with a supplied air system using an oil/water separator and a carbon filter inline to a respirator. Now I will breathe clean air with positive pressure
using my existing compressed air supply. Link to the product: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU2Z17Z/

I am halfway through removing the high spots of the tar they used in the ceiling for sound deadening and fiberglass tacking on one unknown day in 1980. I am using a heat gun and putty knife.

9 days from placing the order, an email came saying the foamboard adhesive I bought was on backorder. I ordered in the evening on Feb. 7th, and got the email on Feb 17th. They took Ten Days to notify me they didn't have what they said was in stock! They probably floated my money for those 9 days and collected interest on it.

This was the foam: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-DYNA...7519/303017008

Here I am, less than a month from installing my insulation and I still don't have adhesive! What is under $4.50 a tube (or $40 a gallon for trowel-grade adhesive), and adheres IsoCyanoAcrylite (R-Tech Insulfoam)?