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Old 04-27-2020, 08:25 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
I did the same thing for my rear corner repair: https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/r...tml#post344023.
You went thru alot of effort on that. Your welds look just like mine ...LOL....
Ugly welds are ok to me so long as it is not a critically structural component. Then I ask for a real welders help for those, everything else I can just grind down!

After looking at your pics and the bracket that I made, I dont't really think that I can cut groove and bend it easily. Too many opposite curves on my piece.

I am leaning on cutting it in half, too fit and on the actual curve I will cut smaller pieces of sheet metal with the curves already made and then weld it all together.

Bending my bracket on the curve.... I really can't see another way to bend it without destroying it.

Let see how it goes today.

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Old 04-27-2020, 08:35 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by ewo1 View Post
You went thru alot of effort on that. Your welds look just like mine ...LOL....
Ha, that bent beam was some epically bad welding. In retrospect I realize I was using way too thin wire (0.023) and low voltage, and I was doing ridiculous things like sticking strips of metal in the gaps so I could weld over them. Now I'd use flux core on maximum chooch and something like this would not be so difficult (it's insane how much grinding I had to do on it).

I think you could still notch and bend your bracket in the same way, but you'd probably need a band saw for the cuts and there would be more welding involved. What you proposed instead sounds easier.
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Old 04-27-2020, 08:41 AM   #23
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I have had to make bent pieces ... I did this by cutting "V" shaped wedges along the inside radius so that I could bend the piece to the curve needed. Then I welded up the "V"s to make one curved piece. Sorry, I have no pictures off-hand.

Before I cut my piece in half and make a new rounded corner out of cut and welded pieces, I think that I might try this first.

the "C" shape of the bracket I made, I guess I could cut into the top and bottom of the "C" portion. The "Header"-"Top" portion I can cut out and replace once I make the radius curve fit....

Yeah I think I now have a plan.... Thanks guys!
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Old 04-27-2020, 06:17 PM   #24
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Ok, a little bit of progress today.

Following the suggestions from this morning, I did some cuts and was able to bend the home made bracket. Although it is a bit larger than the factory bracket, I am quite happy with the results.

Tomorrow I will trim it up to fit better, weld it all shut, sandblast and paint.

Here it is...
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Old 04-27-2020, 07:37 PM   #25
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Looks good, man.

It's really kind of surreal to be regularly doing something as unusual (for me) as repairing a rusty school bus, and then seeing people here doing almost exactly the same things. This is kind of exclusionary, but someday it might be fun to organize a Rustapalooza just for those of us whose buses actually required some effort to convert.
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Old 04-27-2020, 11:49 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
Looks good, man.

It's really kind of surreal to be regularly doing something as unusual (for me) as repairing a rusty school bus, and then seeing people here doing almost exactly the same things. This is kind of exclusionary, but someday it might be fun to organize a Rustapalooza just for those of us whose buses actually required some effort to convert.
There sure are a lot of folks dealing with rust. That might be quite a Rustpalooza.
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Old 05-02-2020, 03:08 PM   #27
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Well I finally got the pass rear corner bracket done!

Doesn't look too bad if I say so myself.

Just got to paint it and fix the rust hole on the body panel. That's next, after I fix the rear pass engine compart door that is.
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Old 05-02-2020, 03:11 PM   #28
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So while I was thinking about stopping for the day, yeah right, I continued on and decided to re-locate the rear emergency window.
I decided to raise it up from it original position.

I kinda of like it like this!
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Old 05-02-2020, 05:10 PM   #29
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Looks great!

The rears of amtrans somhow always seems to rust out from the inside. Looks like the best repair of that I've ever seen!
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Old 05-02-2020, 05:32 PM   #30
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Fine job and you'll actually be able to see out the rear window.
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Old 05-03-2020, 08:22 AM   #31
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Magna lok Rivets

So after reading the many posts on rivets I decided to give the magna lok rivets a try. ... got my fingers crossed and hoped I made a good decision.

For 500 rivets I paid $163.00 (shipping included) (.326 cents each) from Byler Rivet, Irving Tx.

Fastenal has them for .73 cents each.
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/11102602

Has anyone had any experience with these rivets ?

The rivets specs are :

MGLP-R8-14 1/4" Dia Protruding Head Steel HUCK MAGNA-LOK
Fastenal Part No. (SKU) 11102602
Manufacturer Part No. MGLP-R8-14
Diameter - 1/4"
Drill Size - G
Finish - Body/Mandrel - Gold Zinc/Zinc
Grip Range - 0.580" - 0.875"
Head - Button
Head Diameter - 0.525"
Head Height - 0.117"
Hole Size - 0.261" - 0.272"
Length - 1.060"
Material - Body/Mandrel Steel/Steel
Series - MGLP-R8-14
Specification - ASME B18.1.1
Tensile Strength - 2200 lb
Trade Name - HUCK MAGNA-LOK
Type - Structural Blind Rivet
Product Weight - 0.0267

Notes
The 360° solid-circle lock. Its Alcoa Fastening Systems answer to loosening and vibration challenges. And its the reason Magna-Lok is the worlds strongest, most reliable, most consistent blind fastening solution available. The unique locking design creates an internal lock during installation that virtually eliminates pin pushout by mechanically locking the pin to the sleeve. So Magna-Lok fasteners lock flush into place reliably. Permanently. Magna-Lok is ideal for applications ranging from general manufacturing and commercial truck body assembly to freight trailers, military vehicles, and postal vehicles. No fastening system is stronger or more dependable.
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Old 05-03-2020, 02:55 PM   #32
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No experience. The gold plating should help control corrosion.
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Old 07-15-2020, 11:33 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewo1 View Post
So while I was thinking about stopping for the day, yeah right, I continued on and decided to re-locate the rear emergency window.
I decided to raise it up from it original position.

I kinda of like it like this!



Nice work on repairing the floor and rear corner! I feel if your going to do something, do it right and not cut corners. Even though you literally cut a corner... it looks great! Looking forward to updates on your conversion!

We have very similar buses and I'm doing most of the conversion on my own as well. (my wife helped with some demo) I have gutted, treated the surface rust on the floor and removed rub (run?) rails in preparation for our raise. (planning on learning to weld during this process ) Are you removing rivets above the windows to accept the new sheet metal or butting the new skin up to the existing rivets and adding new rivets?? ( hope that makes sense)

I saw your proposed idea for expanding the engine compartment for easier access from outside. Seems like a good idea to keep mechanics out of the bedroom and any future access issues. Have you stuck with that plan? What are you thinking about the angled pieces that allow head clearance and air flow to the engine compartment?? I was thinking to modify them to allow more interior space and still have adequate head room (and air flow?) in the engine bay. Also would like to raise the rear window and trying to determine where to cut in the back. I was thinking to cut below the existing window frame where it's welded to the bus frame. However seeing yours, it may be easier to just re-frame it once it's raised and just cut channels. Curious to see how you skin the rear. I'm also planning to reuse both panels above the engine doors where it curves into the mesh opening. Any thoughts ideas or pics would be appreciated.

Also, Thanks for previously uploading wire schematics. I'll be using them soon. I recently removed a ton of wires and lost power to all my lights. However she still starts which helped my peace of mind. I can bypass harnesses and just connect the wires I'm keeping directly, right?
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Old 07-30-2020, 12:55 PM   #34
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Nice work on repairing the floor and rear corner! I feel if your going to do something, do it right and not cut corners. Even though you literally cut a corner... it looks great! Looking forward to updates on your conversion!

We have very similar buses and I'm doing most of the conversion on my own as well. (my wife helped with some demo) I have gutted, treated the surface rust on the floor and removed rub (run?) rails in preparation for our raise. (planning on learning to weld during this process ) Are you removing rivets above the windows to accept the new sheet metal or butting the new skin up to the existing rivets and adding new rivets?? ( hope that makes sense)

I saw your proposed idea for expanding the engine compartment for easier access from outside. Seems like a good idea to keep mechanics out of the bedroom and any future access issues. Have you stuck with that plan? What are you thinking about the angled pieces that allow head clearance and air flow to the engine compartment?? I was thinking to modify them to allow more interior space and still have adequate head room (and air flow?) in the engine bay. Also would like to raise the rear window and trying to determine where to cut in the back. I was thinking to cut below the existing window frame where it's welded to the bus frame. However seeing yours, it may be easier to just re-frame it once it's raised and just cut channels. Curious to see how you skin the rear. I'm also planning to reuse both panels above the engine doors where it curves into the mesh opening. Any thoughts ideas or pics would be appreciated.

Also, Thanks for previously uploading wire schematics. I'll be using them soon. I recently removed a ton of wires and lost power to all my lights. However she still starts which helped my peace of mind. I can bypass harnesses and just connect the wires I'm keeping directly, right?
Sorry for taking so long to get back to ya... I had to put the bus project on the side this month, work starting to kick in something serious so after 2 1/2 months of no income...time to get back to work!

I am not planning on removing the rivets from above the windows. I am going to slide the sheet metal right up against them and then just secure it right there. If it becomes necessary, I could just weld in a thin gauge piece of angle iron up there and then rivet the top of the sheetmetal to that, but I don't think that will be necessary.

As far as expanding the engine compartment area, I am still up on the fence about that. I do want to find a solution for keeping mechanics out of the bedroom so if anyone here has any ideas on this, please chime in.

As far as the angled pieces that allow head clearance and air flow to the engine compartment.... I might just leave that alone as I would not want to reduce the air flow to the engine compartment. Last thing I would want is not enough airflow on a 100 degree hot and humid south florida day turning my engine into a barbeque pit!

SO I got my bus back into the warehouse today and plan to get back to working on it during tropical storm Isaiah this weekend.

Here are some pics of where I am at and a little about what I hope to get done this weekend.

1) My plan is to fully install the back piece and install the rear window.
2) Dry hang all the side skins. What I mean by dry hang is, using self tapping screws from the inside of the bus. hang and secure each sheet at the very top hole of each rib. I'll need about 3 1/2 sheets, of 4x10 18 ga skins, on each side. I hope to get all of them up then come back to the rear of the bus and start installing rivets as I move forward.

3) roof transition - I must confess that I am both nervous and excited with this next step.
There really isn't a step by step writeup for this.

On both the top (roof line) and bottom (front cap) I tried to leave at least a 2inch border of metal, creating a "lip", when I initially cutout the roof. My thought process is that instead of removing existing rivets on each of the hat channels, I can bend and overlay the existing 2 inch extension along with the new roof metal to "Meet" with each other, apply seam sealer and rivet them together.

I'll post pics when I get there.

God this is so much fun !!!
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Old 07-30-2020, 04:00 PM   #35
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So the transition is gonna be fun....yeah right...

Like I said earlier, I did not cut the old roof right at the hat channel. I tried to leave a 2 inch lip so I can have more mounting options as I try to get this done.

Tomorrow I cut some cardboard and begin to try to figure this puzzle out.

here some pics ..
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Old 08-03-2020, 10:20 AM   #36
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Rear exterior panel

Ok, made some progress on the bus this weekend.

The skin above the front passenger tire is back in place. took the opportunity to install some insulation in there while it was all open.

Got the rear corner back on as well as the door for the engine compartment. rust issue all fixed in these three locations.

Biggest accomplishment was getting the new rear panel up and mounted.
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Old 08-03-2020, 10:23 AM   #37
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The back panel, how did I do it?

I decided to go for a clean look so I used one sheet versus trying to cut it out to fit the existing voids. Basically I am overlaying it on top of the old panel.

But before I did I also made a template for the window that I will be cutting in.
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Old 08-03-2020, 10:35 AM   #38
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Lifting the panel

As with everything else on the bus, demo, lift, yes I lifted the panel in place all by myself, no help.

Amazing how no one wants to help build this but I'm sure will come a day when they want to go for a trip in it! LOL...

At first I was gonna try using the forklift but then decided that no way would this process be a one man job so i then went caveman.
Simple hoist and guards to prevent it from falling.

I secured a chain across the roof top, wrapped around the roof posts at the last window.

Then I used three load straps. the middle one being the strongest and the two outer ones were used as guides.

The guides got hooked up to the chain on the roof and on the bottom I secured it to the bumper bracket.
The guide straps were pulled very tight. The purpose of these straps, If you pull from the bottom center of the panel, it WILL flip up / over and drop on your head !!!
These guide straps prevent the flipping / rolling over of the panel as you lift.

The toughest and most frustrating part was climbing up and down the ladder, on both corners, about at least 50 times, so as to be able to guide the top of the panel inner the lip on the roof cap.
After about 3 hours or so, I finally got it done, secured in place on the top only for now. Panel is flush up on the top and level on the bottom.

All that is left to do on this panel is drill out more holes, and rivet, rivet, rivet....

SUCCESS !!!
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Old 08-06-2020, 06:02 PM   #39
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Rear panel installed !

Well after 123 rivets and 4 titanium drill bits, the rear panel is finally installed !!!

The top rivets are at 1 inch spacing (factory).
The bottom rivets I did at 4 inch spacing except at the corners where I went with 2 inch spacing.

Now I get to start doing the side skins !!!
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Old 08-06-2020, 06:41 PM   #40
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Looking awesome, man. How did you bend the radius on the corners of that sheet?
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