Bus # 9906

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Looking awesome, man. How did you bend the radius on the corners of that sheet?

Good question... I got lucky with what I did.

I first measured the distance starting from the center (top 2 bottom) out to the sides.
First mark is where the curve begins, second mark is where the curve ends.

I did this on both sides. I also marked the center of the sheet and also on the bus itself just to makes sure that while I wiggled the sheet in to fit, I would always try to be dead on center.

Once the marks were done, I used the concrete corner or the my warehouse building and just ever so lightly bent/creased the panel one the marks that I made. I made damn sure they were slight bends as to not make a hard crease in the panel.

Then I then went caveman and lifted the panel up into position.
The toughest part was getting the top of the panel into the lip of the rear end cap.

Once I got it in, I used cargo straps and blocks of wood to 1) hold the panel flat so it would not bulge, 2) bend or force the curve on the panel by sliding a vertically placed board, under pressure from the load strap to make it conform to the radius of the bus corner.

If you take a look at the pic, the main strap went from side to side along the middle of the panel.
I used 2x4, 4x4 and 1x4 boards 3 ft long, pressed up very, very tight against the panel.

With a 5 lb hammer, I banged on and slid the boards out towards the corners, forcing the sheet metal to bend. As it bent, I massaged it with the 5lb hammer by banging on the wood, not the metal.

As it bent I popped rivets as I went along. But I first popped in all the rivets top and bottom stopping just before the curves began. I popped them in one by one as I slid the boards out towards the ends.

Doing it this way helped me make sure it would lie flat and not bulge out anywhere.

Can't wait to work on the roof transition...!!

[1SkoolieNoob]

Nice work! Excellent method of attaching that sheet and "massaging" it out from the center! Looks real clean with just the one panel. Can't remember, is that 18g? Did you use any clecos around the radius? Keep having fun, looking forward to seeing your take on the transition.

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by 1SkoolieNoob

Nice work! Excellent method of attaching that sheet and "massaging" it out from the center! Looks real clean with just the one panel. Can't remember, is that 18g? Did you use any clecos around the radius? Keep having fun, looking forward to seeing your take on the transition.

Thanks!

I used 18 ga, I didn't use cleco's as I found it much easier to use self taping screws first in order to secure panel firmly in one stroke versus drilling the hole and then putting in clecos...

Once I removed the screw that gave me a nice pilot hole to drill out for the rivets. I used 1/4 rivets and drilled a 1/4 hole. Many times the hole was nice and tight requiring me to use an adjustable wrench opened up just enough to wrap around the center pin and I had to tap on the wrench with a light hammer to insert the rivets.

Look at post #31 of this thread and you will see the steel body rivets I am using. They are working out really great !

[ewo1]

Ok, got the first skin up in place today.
Panel size is 44 inches by 120 inches (10 ft).
I had initially thought about just sliding up to the bottom of the rivets at the drip rail but then instead decided to go up behind the rivets and pushing the panel up as far as it would go.

Doing it this way I still can put 3 rivets at each rib, this is plenty for holding it up into place.
I'm still probably gonna put in rivets down each rib but in the back of my mind I am also playing with the idea of using some automotive body panel adhesive along each rib and maybe going rivetless (clean) down the sides of the bus.
So only rivets at the top, bottom and ends of each panel.
Not sure how that would hold up over time but it would give a nice clean look to the top half of the sides of the bus. I am wondering if the adhesive would be enough to avoid oil canning?

Right now, in the pic, it is only being held up by three rivets up on top at the three center ribs.
I still need to measure and cut out and install the "Air Tunnel" that provide air flow to the engine compartment.

I lifted the panel up into place using the cargo straps. I tossed them up over the roof and hook them onto the gutter up on the opposite side of the bus., with one strap going horizontal in order to keep the panel from flipping over.

Todays goal is 2 side panels and the air tunnel. Let see if the South Florida heat doesn't knock me out me first...

[Native]

You seem to have that one-man operation down to a science!

[cadillackid]

ha! cool stuff.. it looks like how i do stuff!!! thats how its done!! utilize all tools avaialable!!



this is looking great!!
-Christopher

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by Native

You seem to have that one-man operation down to a science!

yes sir !!!

Confucius said: “The man who moves a mountain begins by carrying away small stones.”

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

ha! cool stuff.. it looks like how i do stuff!!! thats how its done!! utilize all tools avaialable!!



this is looking great!!
-Christopher

Who needs professional tools anyway !


CDB: I ain't got no money but I damn sure got it made!

[ewo1]

Ok so I got the first air tunnel cover installed.

I notched out the sheet metal and installed the cover under the new skin.

Needs dome final tweaking but overall, it is installed!!!

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by ewo1

yes sir !!!

Confucius said: “The man who moves a mountain begins by carrying away small stones.”

I think there's also a bit about "and then sixty generations later the mountain is gone."

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

I think there's also a bit about "and then sixty generations later the mountain is gone."

LOL, lets hope I finish the bus in this generation then!

[syntel]

We sanded the rust, and then used Corriseal Rust Converter. It's and acid latex that reacts with the rust turning it to maganese - a stable nonrusting metal by product. Followed with Rustoleam primer, and then Henry's RV Roof Silicone to fill all the minor holes.

[ewo1]

So after alot of prep work I finally got the skins hanging on the driver side.

On the top, I only removed the three rivets at each rib and used a combination of the air chisel/hammer and a pry bar to make just enough of a separation so I can slide the panel up nicely passed the rivets meaning, I did not slide up to the bottom of the rivets, I slid the sheet up past the back of the rivets.

Right now each sheet is just hanging by 3 rivets, more than enough.
Of the three rivets initially removed at each rib, I only inserted one steel rivet in the center holes for right now.

I still need to weld in the angle irons on each rib where I cut and raised, That easy to do from the inside of the bus.

Since the panels can be pulled from the bottom outwards 2-3 inches without creating a crease on the top, I can now better install seam sealer where needed, all in one shot!

I still raised and placed by myself but I also did have a helper this time to help me hold the sheets steady and also put in the top 3 rivets on each panel.

In the front, drivers window, I placed the sheet right on the edge of the aluminum driver window frame. I can still get that window out if needed but I can now put sealant here between the window and the skin closing up that gap without the needs for rivets on that edge. There will still be rivets but about 3 inches back from the edge instead on 1/2 inch from the edge,.

Raising a roof is alot of work!


This week I will be preparing the passenger side for the same.

[Native]

Excellent progress considering that you are working on your own.

[ewo1]

Well the week super busy with work so I didn't get too much done but I am starting to see that very dim light at the end of the tunnel.
The tunnel is very long and the light is super dim but each day I work on the bus I get to see that little tiny light grow just a bit more brighter!

After running out of rivets I finally got the passenger rear quarter finished, from the emergency door back.
All the panels up, secured with 1/4 inch steel rivets, 1/4 inch angle iron welded on the inside to replace the hat channel lips.

Since I am still working without a helper, in order to minimize oil canning I again slung the load strap over the bus and use a 4x4 to help keep the skins flat. The 4x4 was just wide enough to reach the ribs on both sides. Worked great!

On thing that was driving me nuts was constantly picking up that damn welder and moving back and forth. After seeing the prices for the cheap HF welder carts, I made my own with a small shopping cart. Not very pretty but very functional and free!

[Native]

Your work is inspiring! I'll be taking a few of your self-installation tricks for when the time comes.


Are you going to raise the wheel chair door, leave it as-is, or what?

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by Native

Your work is inspiring! I'll be taking a few of your self-installation tricks for when the time comes.



Are you going to raise the wheel chair door, leave it as-is, or what?

I kinda of wish this bus had a wheel chair lift. I was thinking it could be used for lifting my Ultra Classic into the bus but this bus don't have one...

That ok though cause I have a motorcycle trailer anyway!

[ewo1]

Ok after 3 weeks of getting nothing done I finally got the skins up and secured on the passenger side of the bus.

I was really tempted to block off the air vent on the pass rear and re-locate it down to the engine compartment door but didn't do it.....

Here are some pics of the work done.

Next on the to do list... the roof transition!!!!

Already started on making a template!!

[ewo1]

Ok so I hope to god I can get this somewhat right without wasting any sheet metal.

There is not too much out their as far as pics and info goes but then again, this is pretty much measure, cut and rivet....

So when I did my original cuts ( oh yeah I messed that up a bit) I welded in the cross braces. From what I am initially seeing, the new sheet metal will be about 2-3 inches away from those cross braces.
No big deal as my thought is that once I get the new sheet metal in place I can weld in additional braces where needed.

I bought a roll of floor carboard, the stuff you use while doing construction and you want to protect the floors. Got it at home depot.
I'm using this material for my templates.

The roof design is going to be in 3 pieces. One from each side going up from the drip rail to the top and one center piece to tie it all in.

There is no way in the world I can get this done in one piece. Two pieces is also asking for too much trouble!

Here are some pics of what I got going on so far.
Later I 'll get some pics from the top of the bus showing how and where I attach everything.

[ewo1]

Here is what I did to secure the panels while I was inside the bus drilling holes for the rivets.

Without a helper, once you break thru the hat channel or angle iron lip and make contact with the skin, there will be no resistance so you will basically just push the skin "Out" with your drill bit.

Using the same load straps that I used to "Raise" each panel, I used an 8 foot 2x4 to secure the sheets, keeping them "FLAT" and avoiding as much as possible any "oil canning".

It worked out very well. I was very easily able to make at least 10-12 holes on each panel without having the panels being pushed out and away from the bus!