Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 05-30-2021, 12:43 PM   #101
Bus Geek
 
musigenesis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,101
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
School busses used to have a driver window deflector option .. on one hand I love them on the other hand they blocked the view somewhat.
Ah yeah, I didn't think about the visibility. Guess my Sea II is going back up on the rear cap.

__________________
Rusty 87 build thread
musigenesis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2021, 04:15 AM   #102
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Fraser Valley British Columbia
Posts: 1,028
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: C7 Cat
Quote:
Originally Posted by ewo1 View Post
So thanks to CadillacKid and Oscar1 for their input. I finally decided the stock OEM drivers window is staying in place.

What I dis, the rear pane I put on some Limo tint and on the front pane I put on legal window tint. I actually plan to use that mirror alot so I wanted to be able to see out the window fairly well...

Thanks guys, Chris... you were right, a bigger window would be better and I didn't think about the airflow to the driver. the ability to move both panes of glass was really helpful too...

OSCAR1, the pics you posted did it for me.

So here are the two window ideas, i've decided on the bigger one!
Looks awesome!
Glad we could offer some different perspective's for you.
Cheers

Oscar
Oscar1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2021, 11:00 AM   #103
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Miami, Fl.
Posts: 672
Year: 1999
Chassis: Amtran / International
Engine: DT466E HT 250HP - Md3060
Rear engine cover

So I got a little bit of work down on the inside rear engine cover.
Back in post #28 & 29 I showed where water was still trapped inside between the rear engine cover panels. Looking at the design as a whole, I feel very strong that the water intrusion begins at the air dam's and creeps it way in the bus in between the walls.

So the framing for the rear seats still had water in them after the bus being inside the warehouse for a year now...

I cleaned up all the rust it left behind, fortunately it wall all surface rust!
I left the foam inserts in place. Looking at them closely I'm guessing their not for insulation value but because of their design I'm guessing it is more for sound deadening.

Those foam panels have a vinyl sheet in the middle of the foam pads. So the foam must be for "diffusing" or "Absorption" of sound while the vinyl insert helps block sound.

I'll be gluing foam insulation boards over the whole thing anyway so leaving the inserts can't do anything negative for the bus.

I also took care of a huge hole in the floor, right under the heater! Wonder how long that must have leaked!

Where the inside mechanis acces panel is, I modified it slightly. I'm ditching my original thoughts of re-working the whole box to make it more "Sqaure". Instead I'll frame it out with wood when it comes time to do the insulation work.

I also cut out the "arch" that was right over the valve cover. I did this so I can at least "Square up" that center piece with a separate but removable insulated steel cover.
My diesel mechanic theorized that the arch was there in support of the lifting plates on the engine house frame. So out it goes as we will never need to use those lifting points!

Also on my mechanics recommendation, we cut out 3 inches from the interior rear wall, right on top of the valve cover. The thought here is that it will provide for more clearance so if you had to, you can get your arm up and over the valve cover from inside the engine box hopefully reducing or eliminating the need to remove the bed when and if the time comes to remove the head.

So in short, rust remediated, slight metal body mods and reassembly.

This afternoon I break the bus piggy bank and go buy some insulation boards. going 2 inch on the floor and 1 inch on the walls and ceiling.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_4575_A.jpg (250.0 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4583.jpg (305.7 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4586_A.jpg (193.6 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4589.jpg (224.2 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg ARCH REMOVED.jpg (226.5 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg WALL CUT.jpg (265.3 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4866.jpg (267.4 KB, 8 views)
ewo1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2021, 04:33 PM   #104
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Miami, Fl.
Posts: 672
Year: 1999
Chassis: Amtran / International
Engine: DT466E HT 250HP - Md3060
It's been a while since I last posted on the progress of the bus, not that I stopped working on it, just pulled myself away from the computer for a while.

So I re-installed the foam mats that were found to be soaking wet all while the bus was inside the warehouse for at least 6 months....
Removed the arch in the center, cleaned all the metal, Ospho'd and rusty metal primered.

I re-installed the original sheet metal, glued down a 3/4 foam insulation board to the entire engine box and now covering with 5/8 plywood.

I also made the center "covers" fully insulated with sheet metal on both side, inside engine compartment and bus body. I designed this so that if access were needed for engine repairs, I could easily unscrew the cover plated and gain access without performing a major disassembly .
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_4878.jpg (258.0 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg engine access.jpg (111.3 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5617.jpg (386.9 KB, 4 views)
ewo1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2021, 05:09 PM   #105
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Miami, Fl.
Posts: 672
Year: 1999
Chassis: Amtran / International
Engine: DT466E HT 250HP - Md3060
Entry door

I also went ahead and finally changed the door from a bi-fold to a single door and mounted it on a piano hinge. I also re-utilized the fabric hinge cover so as to help protect the piano hinge from the elements.

I recycled some used steel from a UTV shipping crate.
The pic of the Yamaha sitting in the frame is an internet pic and the other rusted looking frame is a spare frame that I got. I originally got 2 of these...for FREE !!!
It is mild steel, approx 1/16" thick, perfect for a door frame!

The pieces I used to make a door frame in the bus is approx 1" x 2" and the center piece I welded in between the bifold doors is appox 1" x 4".

I made a rookie mistake when welding, I overheated one side while welding so now is has a slight "Bow", not perfectly straight. I tried to prevent this from the beginning by clamping down angle iron , top and bottom but what I did wrong is welded up one side first then flipped it around to do the other. That is when I overheated the one side and it bowed.
I should have done small tack weld first, on each side and then alternate my welding so as not to overheat any one side.

Added a piano hinge, door does close real nice but dang, I will still know the door is bowed!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_5466.jpg (231.1 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5467.jpg (254.5 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5469.jpg (168.8 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5476.jpg (272.1 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5477.jpg (275.2 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5475.jpg (269.0 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5479.jpg (320.1 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5502.jpg (246.7 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5503.jpg (307.6 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5504.jpg (196.9 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5507.jpg (250.4 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5536.jpg (409.8 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5538.jpg (390.3 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5554.jpg (288.9 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5556.jpg (242.3 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5618.jpg (413.1 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5620.jpg (481.4 KB, 5 views)
File Type: png Yamaha_ATV_2.6c45efde.png (362.3 KB, 5 views)
ewo1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2021, 07:33 PM   #106
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Miami, Fl.
Posts: 672
Year: 1999
Chassis: Amtran / International
Engine: DT466E HT 250HP - Md3060
Brakes

So while on this adventure of rebuilding this bus, I went ahead and sourced some aluminum truck wheels. Found out real quick that the lugs were too short so off the wheels came so as to remove the lugs and buy longer ones. That's when it happened, hit me in the face hard... I NEED BRAKES AND DRUMS !!!

The pads were just about to start touching the rivets. If it wasn't for needing lugs I may not have looked into the brakes just yet. I also found a rear axle seal that was just starting to get moist.

One of the first things I did was to call the international dealer, give them my vin number and asked if they could email the build sheet for the bus. They did so quickly and again...FREE !!!

So my bus came with what the call 'California" brake pads. I have come to learn that they are actually "Merotir-Rockwell Q-plus" shoes.

The rear are 16.5 x 8 Q+ and the fronts are 16.5 x 6 Q+.

Every truck parts shop I went to did not stock them. They all tried to convince me to downgrade to the regular size shoes, rear 16.5 x 7 and front 16.6 x 5.

I said to them all, yeah right, while the whole world eagerly wants an upgrade you want me to downgrade my braking capacity???

I kept looking and found shoes... One place was really expensive but in all I spent so far $169.06 for the front shoes and $256.00 for the rear shoes. This place where I got the the front shoes did not care about the cores and would not subtract a core charge for the shoes. Oh well, I least I am gonna be safe now.

Still trying to source brake drums, I need to replace all 4. They have alot, i mean ALOT of heat cracks.

My local International dealer quoted me $207 each for the rear drums and $284 each for the front.
New axle seal, (2) for $120.00

That's $1,527 in parts alone. Glad I got it done now versus on the road broke down!
I wonder how much a break job costs for a bus?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_5563.jpg (404.7 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5564.jpg (345.8 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5600.jpg (325.1 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5602.jpg (245.1 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5604.jpg (227.2 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5559.jpg (253.2 KB, 3 views)
ewo1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2021, 07:39 PM   #107
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Miami, Fl.
Posts: 672
Year: 1999
Chassis: Amtran / International
Engine: DT466E HT 250HP - Md3060
Merotir-Rockwell Q-plus Brake shoes

I found a 59 page Meritor Brake shoe catalog.
I am uploading here for anyone who might need brakes!

Oop's, file is too large to upload.

Here is the link for the PDF -> https://cumberland-companies.com/wp-...rake-Shoes.pdf
ewo1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2021, 02:09 PM   #108
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Miami, Fl.
Posts: 672
Year: 1999
Chassis: Amtran / International
Engine: DT466E HT 250HP - Md3060
Before and After

So the brakes are now all done, new shoes, drums on all 4 tires and new hub seals on the rear wheels!

Got it out of the warehouse today, after 14 months of being inside it is sure nice to get my warehouse space back!

Here are some before and after pics from what it was to where it is.
Later today I'll be applying Ospho the the naked sheet metal so I can get some primer on it.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_8832.jpg (286.8 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_8826.jpg (297.8 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5687.jpg (407.4 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5698.jpg (272.8 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5700.jpg (263.8 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_5693.jpg (245.5 KB, 5 views)
ewo1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2021, 02:54 PM   #109
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Fraser Valley British Columbia
Posts: 1,028
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: C7 Cat
Just had a chance to re read your whole build thread, fantastic work, great looking bus and awesome motivation.
Thanks.
__________________
God this is so much fun!!!
ewo1
Oscar1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2021, 02:59 PM   #110
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Miami, Fl.
Posts: 672
Year: 1999
Chassis: Amtran / International
Engine: DT466E HT 250HP - Md3060
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oscar1 View Post
Just had a chance to re read your whole build thread, fantastic work, great looking bus and awesome motivation.
Thanks.
Thank you for the kind words. It sure is nice hearing someone else saying what you did, truly motivating!
ewo1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2021, 03:02 PM   #111
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 15,817
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
bus is lookin great!!! so you ospho on brare metal? you dont have to etch it first or use a primer / etcher?
cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2021, 03:08 PM   #112
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Miami, Fl.
Posts: 672
Year: 1999
Chassis: Amtran / International
Engine: DT466E HT 250HP - Md3060
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
bus is lookin great!!! so you ospho on brare metal? you dont have to etch it first or use a primer / etcher?
Thank you!

I have been apply Ospho on bare metal for a couple of years now. It actually etches the metal somewhat.

On general parts that I sandblast…. Blast clean, Ospho, let it dry, wipe clean with scotch pad, acetone, clean rag then primer or paint.

http://www.ospho.com/directions.htm
ewo1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:17 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.