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Old 07-23-2005, 12:37 PM   #41
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Do it...

I'd totally put thompsons on the wood. Anyway to make that wood as durable as possible for all the work it will be doing. In fact, as I'm typing this, I'd put those 3 or 4 coats since once the floor is done, I don't really have any plans to pull all that crap up again. Some might call it over kill I call it not wanting to do this EVER again or at least not for several years yet. Well, I think no matter how much coating you do, some water will be absorbed by the wood. Making sure to really prep the metal w/ some kind of rusting resistant stuff helps but you know, one can only do so much with an all steel hull.

I tried to start de-rusting but after a while just rolled my eyes up and said forget it. Once all the wood is gone I'll worry about derusting. By then I'll have all the stuff necessary to make it a week end project of filling holes, patching pits and the like. What are you using to take up large areas of rust? I have just a small angle grinder and with nearly 30 feet of floor, that 4 1/2 isn't going to cut it.

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Old 07-23-2005, 01:18 PM   #42
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I just finished all the de-rusting and put my first coat of "rust stopping" paint on. I hope that stuff works... I have heard many claims, but in order to stop rust completley I still think you have to take it down to bare metal, on the top and bottom. Which would mean that you would have to de-rust the bottom and then do a complete new undercoating. Now while my undercoating is still mosly intact I still suspect a there is some rust there. My point being, anti-rust paint and such works only as well as the prep time you are willing to commit to the project.

Anyways, im just gonna paint the metal best I can and the wood too. As you have said, I im thinking it's a good idea, as the rust is almost inevitable.

As for removing the rust, I too only have a 4 1/2 grinder which I used for bad areas, and I was contimplating buying a bigger one. I imagine if I had a larger Bus then I would, it would make a big difference. Then I went over everything with a Wire brush, and then I sanded everything with 36 Grit so the paint would stick. I did manage to get the floor down to bare metal in most places tho. As I said tho... my bus is small and with a larger one I would wish for larger tools (for the sake of my back and the balls of my feet).

What are you using to patch your floor?
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Old 07-24-2005, 12:03 AM   #43
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You might want to consider the odor of the wood sealer. I used that stuff on a wood deck a few years ago and it smelled like mineral spirits for months. You can buy treated marine grade plywood. Though the cost is not pretty.
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Old 07-24-2005, 10:11 PM   #44
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Hmmmm, if thats the case with wood sealers-I might have to employ my aromatherpathy skills and add something neuralizing to it. Still, a few days in the so. cal summer sun before putting it down would lessen the smell somewhat.

I found this on the web:
http://www.therustdoctor.com/

Think its worth it? After say patching some of the bad spots w/ bondo.

Bondo, Dan-o is body filler putty like stuff the skoolies here and else were have used to fill in the metal floor that has been pitted by rust. My understanding (as I've not use it yet) is that it works pretty good filling in the worst spots but won't stop the rust.

Anyone else wanna add to my lessor knowledge?
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Old 07-25-2005, 01:43 PM   #45
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That stuff sounds a lot like (por-15) I think the name is. It converts the rust and stops it. It sounds like a similar product. I know a lot of people that have used Por-15 with good results. Here is an excerpt from the website. From what they say it sounds like it stops the rust.

"Metal treated with Rust Doctor (notice how the rust is converted to black magnetite, which is inert and will not rust)."
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Old 07-25-2005, 02:40 PM   #46
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Yes, seen many paint's like this on the web... I would think that they will be expensive. I have this Marine grade "rust stopping" paint which I got for a reasonable price, and I think that with adequate prep work, it should do the job quite well.

Bondo, I know the product well, I am now using a Bondo product that has fiberglass in it. Same application as the regular, but I believe that once it cures it is quite a bit stronger, so it's better for larger applications, or if you just want a little overkill.
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Old 07-25-2005, 02:42 PM   #47
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I think it's called "Bondo-Glass"
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Old 07-26-2005, 05:45 PM   #48
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sounds like were working on the same faze. we finally have all the wood up and have uncovered our very rust floor. i have wired brushed the whole floor with a right angle drill took a few hours and then cleaned up. next we are putting Osfoe on the bare clean floor. it neutralizes rust. terrible for the earth, though. Osfoe is a marine supply. then i am going to weld in some new patches, i think and then onto bondo.
i wish i was going to burning man this year. next year i hope.
-lea
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Old 07-26-2005, 07:47 PM   #49
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Yes Next year is my goal too, "The Pig" (bus) made it down last year, I rented it to a friend. It got me Interested.

Good luck with the floor, man it sucked doing mine, can't imagine what it must be like with your bus... since it's just a little bigger
But once you get on to the framing I think is when the real rewards start showing.
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Old 07-30-2005, 11:55 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lea
sounds like were working on the same faze. we finally have all the wood up and have uncovered our very rust floor. i have wired brushed the whole floor with a right angle drill took a few hours and then cleaned up. next we are putting Osfoe on the bare clean floor. it neutralizes rust. terrible for the earth, though. Osfoe is a marine supply. then i am going to weld in some new patches, i think and then onto bondo.
i wish i was going to burning man this year. next year i hope.
-lea
---------------------
Yeah we are, but you are moving WAY faster than I

I pulled up another stubborn section of floor now only two plus what's under the driver seat and electrical area remain.

Today I got out the front right heater-what a mess! 17yrs of crap and garbage plus the little antifreeze that spilled out all congeling to make a goopy sloppy mudpile on the floor. Some antifreeze escaped through some area of the floor where there must be a hole or something.

Not sure if I'll be doing any welding I just hope the anti rust stuff works! I took the grinder wheel to the metal to remove some screws and found just a bit of left and right took the worst coats off leaving pitted metal in some spots. Bondo I think will take care of that but stronger stuff you are using Lea sounds better for tackling the rust. I'll have to read up on all of it to make a better decision.
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Old 08-27-2005, 09:07 PM   #51
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Nothing new...

...as my arthritis has been acting up on and off lately. I've had to put everything from riding my horse to gardening on hold while I try to bring the swelling down. Started going to the gym and doing aqua aerobics/jacuzzi really helping. Don't think my horse, Kelly doesn't mind at all...the brat. Serves her right if I get some hitching tack and get her pulling wagons again.

Anyway, I've been pondering the water tank situtation and have decided to go back to my original idea w/ a twist. One person here is using 55 gal drums as water storage which I think would work well as I have no shower. I'll either add another 55 gal or a 25 gal tank and attach them together. This would leave more than plenty of fresh water. I might put one of those outdoor shower units in and make or purchase an outdoor shower stall for dry camping. Either way, this would leave room for a large black water tank and I can move the propane tanks to the left side instead of sqeezing them on the right side were I'd like to put some storage boxes. Overall, my wish/goal is to keep the clearance height unchanged for the most part. The rest of this year is devoted to the ugly stuff (floor), changing all the lights to friendier, easy to see, getting someone to fix that mess I made of the wiring & collecting the large pieces of furniture.

Lastly, I finished the general floor plans for TCD and am now working on the plumping & electrical plans. I'd like a porch w/ an awning & hitch for horse trailer but that's way down the line yet.
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Old 09-06-2005, 04:47 PM   #52
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what kinda drums?

Are you thinking of using metal or plastic 55 gal drums, cause I know the horse supply store often sells plastic 55 gal drums for cheap and they wont rust, but you would have to link them with hose not welding, BTW where is this rv salveage yard you went to? I live up in Tehachapi above Lancaster/Palmdale so it sounds like you might not be far away therefore the salvage yard might not be far away. Also, what kinda horse do you ride? My wife Marilyn rides a 6 year old gelding halflinger named Raz. Our Bus Lola will be used as a tow vehicle for a horse trailer as well as all her other duties.
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Old 09-11-2005, 05:15 PM   #53
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Since you live in a relatively sunny area, you might consider some kind of solar shower heating. I have used one of those solar shower bags (3 gallon IIRC) for years canoing, and it works great (as long as you have sun).
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Old 09-22-2005, 12:17 AM   #54
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Re: what kinda drums? Bass Drums! (tossing corn around)

Quote:
Originally Posted by trentet
Are you thinking of using metal or plastic 55 gal drums
---I purchased one for $15 bucks at the horse store.

but you would have to link them with hose not welding
---Yeppers. I have to figure out a way to link w/o the mess this other buser on a will not name yahoogroup but most people know whom I talking about; as his set up was sloppy.

BTW where is this rv salveage yard you went to?
-----Its in Fontana, San Bernardino co. Called Walt's RV. Don't bother w/ the website, just go there. More stuff than you can shake a stick at

Also, what kinda horse do you ride? My wife Marilyn rides a 6 year old gelding halflinger named Raz. Our Bus Lola will be used as a tow vehicle for a horse trailer as well as all her other duties.
---I have a Clydesdale/F. Quarter Horse rode western. Alas, my funds are very much in the toliet and Kelly is going to be sold Maybe down the road I'll get another one but nothing is more interesting than your first horse.
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Old 09-22-2005, 12:24 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric von Kleist
Since you live in a relatively sunny area, you might consider some kind of solar shower heating. I have used one of those solar shower bags (3 gallon IIRC) for years canoing, and it works great (as long as you have sun).
And one of those stand up shower thingies too. Yeah I thought about one of those for my car camping trips were KOA wasn't around.
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Old 09-22-2005, 12:30 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pangaia
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric von Kleist
Since you live in a relatively sunny area, you might consider some kind of solar shower heating. I have used one of those solar shower bags (3 gallon IIRC) for years canoing, and it works great (as long as you have sun).
And one of those stand up shower thingies too. Yeah I thought about one of those for my car camping trips were KOA wasn't around.
We used it for canoe camping. It would sit on top of the wannigan (storage box) during the day while we paddled, and then we would just hang it from a tree when we camped. We generally camp in remote areas (which is the nice thing about canoe camping -- plus the boat carries all your crap), so we never bothered with any kind of shower curtain.
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Old 09-23-2005, 11:41 AM   #57
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thanks for the heads up on Walts

Thank you for the heads up on Walt's RV I'm about 2-1/2 hours from there. I'm Sorry to hear about your horse. I adopted a clydesdale/quarter/belgian cross gelding from the premarin rescue but he died within 3 months of a sand impaction. He was only a year old so we think he had some other problems. I have'nt been able to consider a replacement for Lightning since then, and he was my first horse also. So at least Kelly is still alive, That's better than Lightning. I think I will stick to mechanical things as I am an engineer and have a greater affinity for them, not that our house isn't flooded with critters, 3 dogs, 6 cats, and my wifes 2 horses. Lola the bus will be a big expense as well when I get to working on her. I guess life is about the joy you get out of it while your here, and you can't take money with you when you go so enjoy it while you have it.
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Old 09-25-2005, 12:12 PM   #58
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Today is the start of a most dreaded job

For today I tackle the rusty floor. (bleech!) I purchased some cans of rustoleum harden stuff-claims you can spray it over rust which means if this is true, I won't be sanding all day. If the product works, I can do the driver area next week provided my neighbor down the way can help with removing the driver seat and eletrical box. I stopped by Lowes yesterday and loaded up on sanders and a degreaser.

Worst comes to worse I order that rust doctor and just dump it everywhere then paint later. My other job (once the floor is done) is to seal all the screw holes. What did people here use to do that? Then tackle the rust under the bus. Which I have NO idea how I'm going to do that....where can I take her to have it pressure washed clean (or did I ask that question already? )

Pictures will be up later on (provided the one-hour is working for a change )
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Old 10-16-2005, 11:12 AM   #59
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Not so long post here.

Happy Fall to all! On the plus side this means more work can get done on the bus. On the bad side...argh rust!
My neighbor helped me to get the driver seat out which now must be replaced if I'm to get her in the shop for some engine work. Propably I'll take a day off, go over to Walt's and see if they have driver seats availible. We also got the cover over the engine inside, removed about a billion screws around the electrical panel. Then we struggled to get the floor up which proved REALLY stubborn and wouldn't come up. I thanked him, we closed up and left.

Yeah.....and then...

Last weekend, I go to start the bus up so it can run for a bit. Turn the key. Nothing but a loud clicking noise. Apparently, something got left in the on position on the panel which drained the battery completely. Because of the way TCD is parked facing inside the yard, there is no way to get a vehicle to her to do a jump. I now gotta get a charger today along with some other serious tools so I can FINISH removing wood, rubber and some rust from the floor. Of course now, its drizzling on and off so no painting today at all

Argh! why why why did that have to happen?? As if that freakin' floor isn't trouble enough! At least the end is in sight and all that will remain is grinding the last remaining sections of floor then painting it with this machine grade paint (with rust proof in it) then laying down the wood.

I don't think I've asked, which I kinda think its a silly question but I wanna make sure, when putting the wood back down on the floor did anyone here reuse the seat holes? If so how did you do it? Secondly, how did you properly secure the floor down? I was thinking of using the seat holes plus drilling three wide space holes on each section of wood, use self drilling screws to cut through the bus floor w/ a nut underneath. How can I make sure I do not have rusty screws afterwards?

Ok, I guess that is it for now. I still have a lot of pix left to take but as soon as that floor is done and I get a driver's seat, I'll post 'em up!

Happy busing!
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Old 10-16-2005, 04:31 PM   #60
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My floor is on firring strips. Between the firring is pink styrofoam insulation, and there is plywood on top of it. I screwed the plywood down to the floor about every 6" through the firring strips.

My procedure:

Drill holes through plywood, firring strips, and sheetmetal floor..

Fill holes with caulk.

Screw wood to sheetmetal with sheetrock screws.

I'm not too concerned about the screws rusting because I probably won't be driving the bus much, especially in the rain.
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