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Old 02-13-2005, 12:19 PM   #1
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Bus is home-Work begins!



We're back! What a trip. Sometimes I thought I was outta my tree doing this. Anyway, the bus had evidently been sitting around for several months before they put it on the market. Quick check through the records found that only minor things had to be replaced/repaired. Biggest concerns are the leaky windshield window (rubberseal is shot in several places), alternator cord rubber will need to be replaced before any major trip as will a couple of rubber joint seals. Engine itself is clean which surprised me. Tires are good enough for rest of this year (two have been retreaded) but all will have to be replaced before Burning Man.

Inside the bus....YUCK! Dirty dirty dirty. Months of dust everywhere unfortunately its also in the fuse box, all over the dash, and the battery box will need to be cleaned. Battery is good and holds its charge well. Rubber floor has gotta go-too many cracks and peels to try and keep. Some major rust areas but the body itself is in pretty good condition. All in all for a 16yr old bus I'd rate it as very good. Made it cross 850 miles with no problems (thank Hermes for that!)

Top speed-67 MPH Best Speed-Between 60-62 MPH.

Question- Is there ANY way to make that freakin' petal easier to press down? My leg is still aching from miles and miles of having to stomp the petal down just to get moving.

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Old 02-13-2005, 01:16 PM   #2
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You can make the pedal easier to push down by changing the throttle return spring. If you do replace your spring I would suggest replacing it with two spring for safety reason. If one spring comes loose or weakens your bus won't run away from you. One neat trick is to use two different sizes of springs, one that fits inside the other so they can connect to the same place and not interfere with each other.
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Old 02-13-2005, 02:23 PM   #3
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Thanks, Steve.

Already I'm purchasing stuff for it. Got the pump for my alternative plumbing now gotta order those barrels. Joanns is gonna provide for some nice curtains (cheap that I can sew).

What to do about rust spots? Front wheels have no mud flaps and because of this all the water etcs have caused rust damage. What have you all been doing with rust?
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Old 02-13-2005, 03:13 PM   #4
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When i first got my bus, i'd "change feet" every so often. I had to go from the right to the left foot pushing on the pedal. I'm not sure why there is such a strong throttle return spring on these things!

Now I use an alluminum stick that fits between the dash and the pedal. I can use the stick for high idle mode when parked, or can put it at varying speeds depending on conditons. With the 6.6 liter ford, i drive the bus with the throttle all the way to the floor when cruising. The stick of alluminum is actually a piece of window trim from inside the bus. It's very thin and about 2" wide.

I know it's not the safest form of "cruise control", but it has worked well for me. All it takes to remove the stick from the pedal is to nudge it with my foot ever so slightly, or just grab it with my hand. I've traveled over 10,000 miles this way.

Just a thought...i know it's not for everybody, but does seem to be the norm among most skoolie owners i talk to.
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Old 02-16-2005, 09:39 AM   #5
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sounds like ya should be lookin' for a used/junkyard aftermarket cruise control system

i installed one on my old H.S. buick for $20

as long as you can get a reading off the speedo i can't see how it'd mind being in a bus
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Old 02-18-2005, 09:52 PM   #6
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I myself aren't interested in CC. I'm totally into making this a simple conversion-I need little flash and bang.

I know the high ticket items are really for surviving Burning Man's bi-polar weather.
Can a battery bank and a converter be enough to run the appliances?

I've been looking at that as an alternative incase I can't get my hands on a silence running generator.
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Old 02-19-2005, 06:49 AM   #7
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Silent Generator

How much power do you need? Briggs & stratton has a nice QUIET little portable generator Model # 1532 that puts out 900w continuous 1000w peak. I used one during our last hurricane power outage & it ran my house refrigerator, portable TV, and a couple table lamps with out flinching.

They can be had for between $350 & $450 depending on the dealer.

I plan on getting one or two for my bus. They're really compact, runs between 3 & 6 hours per 1.2 gallon tank (depending on load), has 2 120v 15a outlets and 1 12v battery charger.
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Old 02-20-2005, 04:55 PM   #8
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Rain stopped me..

...but I got two of six screws out. I took a long time getting started reading the directions, putting the grinder's wheel on, the trip to ACE, dressing up like a mummy so nothing got injured, etc etc. I took the longest removing one screw because I hadn't found a method that worked. Now that I have one, it should go a little faster. Now if only the weather would cooperate.

I side with others-go with the grinder, it will make removing those seats way easier. Can't wait to get two of those seats out, my back isn't holding up as well as I'd hoped. Ah well.
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Old 02-27-2005, 12:59 PM   #9
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Pictures!!

Okie day, TCD's pictures are up in the gallery.

What is that thing on the air filter? Any guesses? Drove TCD yesterday to find air filters and check out this rv salvage place recommended by an co-worker.

He was right on the money with that place. They freakin' have everything-including about a 1000 different kitchen sinks/bathroom sinks.
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Old 02-27-2005, 11:40 PM   #10
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anyway more...

Got three seats out today. Between the concert I went to last night and a bout of stomach sickness, I'm so sore even breathing hurts Didn't stop me doing this. Gotta get those out no matter what! Wish this ugly task would do itself.

Well, got one surprise when seat number two came up-part of the floor is warped up enough to break through the thinning rubber. urgh!
Won't know the full damage until two more seats come up. Anyone else have this problem?
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Old 02-28-2005, 07:42 AM   #11
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Hi all. My first post. PanGaia - I hope your floor problems arent bad. For the rust you could cut out the rust seal the bare metal with a rustolium and rivet in a plate of sheet metal and cover the hole area with the same stuff thats used to protect the under carage of a car. Should be an easy fix if its not in a corner.
I have to sell my vette before I get a bus, but it will happen.
Blessed Be.
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Old 03-03-2005, 10:52 PM   #12
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rust sucks

Welcome to our addiction, Traveling man!

Well, that method sounds like a lot more than I can do and before I do anything I need to have it looked at first to see what needs immediate replacement. Hopefully nothing but a filter, oil change and 4 new rear tires is all the serious cash I need to drop.

After some thought (more like a "well DUH"-ism), I removed all the cushions on the seats. This will make using the grinder in those tight corners much easier.
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Old 03-04-2005, 09:53 AM   #13
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Re: Pictures!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by pangaia
What is that thing on the air filter? Any guesses?
That's a restriction quage for your air filter. It should read about 4-6 w/new filter - when it gets toward the upper end (red) it's time to replace filter. Pretty handy things, if you push in on the center of the bottom part it will reset to 0 so you can keep track of changes. The lower the reading, the better for power and milage.

Enjoy -

Stego
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Old 03-09-2005, 10:57 PM   #14
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Best change that filter then..

Yeah I had hope to have some small things done of the bus saturday as well as get some more seats out. However, my horse Kelly's shoes need to be done since all the mud pulled her rear ones damn near off. Only saw this yesterday. What a crapper too, no riding til Saturday.

Last weekend I got five more seats out. One was at the expensive of the metal around the aux heater. Speaking of....

Gods how do I get that eyesore out and shut just that pipe down? Though I doubt I'll need the heater anymore since its heating up good around here, I still want to leave the fronts up but not this one in the back.

Pulled nearly all the rubber up on the left side side to the wheel well and yeppers, that warp is wicked but no serious damage or cracks in the wood. I can even stand on it and no creaky noises. Is it fruitless of me to try and clean the wood, seal it up then put down the plywood? Or can I just seal it from further damage then put the plywood down to smooth it all out?

I ordered and rec'd the book "How to built Low Cost Motorhomes". Now before some might groan, for someone who has little experience building anything but a mess on their desk, this book has been insightful and quite an eye opener. I suddenly realized that the plans I had drawn up are rather inadequate for even the small converting I'm doing. Needless to say that I'm having to redo the plans to fit what I see in my head. Although I will not be doing a full conversion, still some things stand out as important for just the Burning Man trip.

Better now than as I'm converting, no?

Stego: Thanks for that answer. Seriously need to get TCD in the shop to get stuff done.
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Old 03-10-2005, 10:40 AM   #15
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Quote:
Speaking of.... (Aux heater)
Gods how do I get that eyesore out and shut just that pipe down? Though I doubt I'll need the heater anymore since its heating up good around here, I still want to leave the fronts up but not this one in the back.
Drain the coolant from the system, put a loop in the hose just after the front heater. I did it using 2 90-degree elbows from NAPA, and a tiny section of hose to join them.

Keep rags and/or absorbent kitty litter handy -- just when you think all of the coolant has been drained, a little (or a lot) will inevitably dribble out somewhere.

Also, I didn't have to drain the entire cooling system. On my bus there is a valve (looks like an on/off spigot for a hose) under the radiator that will allow you to drain only the portion of the cooling system that goes to the interior heaters.

Best of luck, ping with questions.

Sean
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Old 03-19-2005, 08:20 PM   #16
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Thankks, Sean! I do that when the rubber is off the floor. More rain forcasted for calif. I'd hate to admit it but I'm getting tired of the rain. Yes we need it but ugh, can't do no painting in this!

Anyway, three more seats out today before the weather turned uglier and I thought no way no more. That warp in the floor is buggin' me, might have to replace that section of wood before I even try to lay a flat floor down. Redo for final plans for the bus-two part conversion- the Haight Ashbury/hurry up get insured part and the Burning Man survivalathon.

Purchased old truck cab-over stove w/ propane bottle for $30 bucks. Bet it works like it too as both are old. Still, it may work just fine which would be awesome as its the size I want yet I can have an oven as well. Fresh bread on the road bread-mmmmmmmmmmmmm. They tossed in the fridge for free as the workers accidently pulled that out though I ain't sure I can use/want that fridge. However, its overall shape is a great way to measure for the actual fridge I want.

Now that I think about it, maybe I should have had them remove the whole left side of the cab-over. But it wouldn't have fit through the emergency door plus it woulda weight a ton. Still.....I might go ask anyway...

Lastly, I picked up a piece of particle board 4x8 & a jig saw for the sinks/counter set up. When placing the sink against the board I saw how much room I'd have left over I figured maybe I can rig a folding table or something.
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Old 03-24-2005, 09:01 PM   #17
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Coming in for the home stretch...

One whole row of seats plus the handle bar thingie is out! Gods, I love it! Gives me a better idea of what I will be up against as far as space.

And yuck, cleaning the whole damn thing will be so icky. 16 yrs of rotten crap all over the place plus metal shavings, screw pieces, bolts and everything-blah!

Anyway, look for some pictures soon on TCD's spot-you'll see that floor warp and a seatless bus!
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Old 04-01-2005, 11:37 PM   #18
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Well, I have pix of the right side section gone and the floor but unfortunately they have to be scanned in as Walgreen's CD picture maker wasn't working. Anyway, nothing has been done on TCD since I got those seats out due to rain and the yard being worked on. I did however, work on some rust spots on the front of bumper. Tomorrow I take her in for an oil change (oil plug has to be replaced as the district's mechanics striped it damn them), and new air filter. And er....I guess I should have asked y'all how many oil filters the big diesel need-my regular mechanic who was unable to work on TCD noted 4 of them. Guess they are only use to the RV diesels...hm.

Also, got insurance back on her-so I feel safer driving it now knowing I can cover my *** incase something happens. Knocking on wood that nothing does!
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Old 04-18-2005, 10:58 PM   #19
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Lots happened

Ok, all seats but those two stubborn ones are out. All the paneling hiding the wires, all lights have been removed. The emergency door alarm disconnected (because its annoying). I spent about 10 mins looking at the numbers on the wires, figuring out that this is the way to track what is what and dancing with joy at this knowledge. Maybe I can actually do some wiring. Maybe.

Anyway, the not working radio plus speakers and that box where the survallience camera all came down. I finally got a good look at what is between the steel shell and me. I might keep that camera box though, its pretty freaking sturdy and might come in handy for something...what I don't know yet.

I replaced the floor in the rear of the bus which also gave me a look at what state the steel is in. Its rusted but not all the way through-more like too much water soaked through the rubber then the wood. I think I might toss some thompson water seal before the plywood goes down. Can't hurt.
I didn't do too bad a job for an amature jigsaw user Only broke one blade *g*.

Next project is removing that rear heater! Once that is gone I can finally do the whole floor. I turned off all the heating valves but I'm going to have to do this a little at a time since the only level place is the storage facility and once there I have limited light access but even ground.

Any more tips on heater removal before I talkbefore I tackle this one?
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Old 04-19-2005, 11:31 AM   #20
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I think you should keep the rear heater! Even if you move it and mount it somewhere else. Engine heat is free as long as you're driving. IF you ever have overheating problems, you can also use the bus heaters to cool the motor.

If you look under the hood (or sometimes down by the drivers feet on the left hand side) there may be water valves used to turn off the coolant to the cab of the bus. IF those are there, you can simply cut the coolant lines and remove the heater.

Otherwise, you can cut the coolant lines anywhere you want and install 2 90degree elbows and a couple pipe nipples to loop the hoses back together, then remove the excess hoses and heater.
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