CHANGED AGAIN! THIS WILL BE IT!! - Page 3

BUSBOZO · 12-16-2009, 06:49 PM

Thanks for the reply Smitty. The reason I said I would not be able to use the furring strips to fill the gap between the floor and wall is because those firring strips are only about 3/4 inch deep. But I will fill in the gap with spray foam. I need to get the inner wall panels ripped off first and then go from there.

I might be getting a little too far ahead of myself. I still need to clean out the inside and screw the subfloor down.

Eric von Kleist · 12-16-2009, 09:27 PM

Here's what I did...

I didn't screw with the walls. They have insulation in them (theoretically). I just put 3/4" foam insulation board over the walls. I used 1"x2" lumber for firring -- not firring strips, but 1"x2"s (which are actually 3/4" x 1 1/2"), and then screwed cloth covered 3/8" plywood panels (recycled seat backs) to the 1"x2"s, and THEN put framing on top of that. I lost a couple of inches inside measurement, but it was EASY (relatively), and it has held up well.

There is a wiring chase that sticks out slightly at the bottom (the long wooden part at the bottom) it gives a nice architectural treatment to the thing. THAT'S how I covered up the plywood-to-wall gap that you ended up with (I had one, too.) Putting the chase down there on the floor gives you a good place to put electrical wiring and sockets.

Here's the entire process from beginning to end:

http://www.skoolie.net/gallery2/v/Sk...bum14/album30/

Here's the finished product:

BUSBOZO · 12-17-2009, 06:14 PM

That looks good Eric. I need to take my wall panels off because I need to rustproof the pillars. There is some rust behind there so I better take care of it now.

I just finished screwing the sub-floor down. Smitty, that would not work either. If I slid everything to one side, the plywood and insulation would be resting on top of the 1" wide lip on that side only. Its kinda confusing. I would need to take pictures of the lip itself. No big deal. So now that the sub floor is pretty much done. I can finish taking the wall panel screws out.

I will report back with some more pics soon.

BUSBOZO · 12-18-2009, 05:46 PM

Well, I got the subfloor fastened down. But I ran into a slight problem.

The passenger side forward rear wheel well area is uneven. The metal floor is bowed up a little in that area causing the plywood to not be even with the other board. I'm just wondering if thats going to effect the framing process. I plan on starting the bunks right over the wheel well.

Any suggestions?

putterspitt · 12-19-2009, 03:16 PM

that is why I am using t/g plywood on the subfloor in my shorty. Dont need any buckling any where. keep the pics coming.

BUSBOZO · 12-19-2009, 05:58 PM

Smitty should I do the shims between the insulation and OSB or between insulation and metal floor?

BUSBOZO · 12-20-2009, 08:04 AM

Ok. Thanks Smitty!

Here is the completed floor. (still need to shim a rear piece of OSB)

Also disconnected the emergency rear door latch, buzzer and starter interlock. (hardwired the interlock circuit. I will use some butt connectors and clean it up later on)

Diesel Dan · 12-20-2009, 12:54 PM

My rear door alarm/ignition cut-off device has two wires going to the plunger, and then two coming from the plunger and going to ground. So, to disable it, do I twist the two wires together that are coming from the wall, or do I ground them both? Or what?

BUSBOZO · 12-20-2009, 08:49 PM

Hmm... lets see. How did I do it. It was kinda trial and error for me. I had 2 boxes. The other one is shown below. The box with the buzzer/alarm/relay in it is not wired to the interlock (ignition cut out) circuit. So that does not have to be jumped.

On the other hand.. the switch in the pic below, IS wired to the ignition cut out. If you notice mine has 4 wires coming out of the switch. I was kinda confused at first. I'm still not too clear on how this setup is wired. On the above pic, the green wires were just a chassis ground. So they didn't really matter. The 2 wires right next to the green ones were the cutout circuit. I just twisted them together and that was all that was required to override it.

The part thats confusing is the 4 wires coming out of the switch. I can't really remember now how they were wired. But I do remember that my plan was to try to just connect the 2 white wires together and the 2 black wires together. But in the pic just the the black and white wire connected together did the trick. i think the others were just for ground.

For the buzzer as shown in the above pic. I just snipped the wires coming out of the connectors on the buzzer side. Don't jump these wires. I believe they are hot and ground.

This probably does not make much sense because I am still not even really clear on what I did. I guess I just got lucky. The whole ignition cut off system might even be ground side switching. So there might not even be 12+ volts present EXCEPT for the buzzer circuit. If you notice there is a red wire going to the buzzer, so that is probably 12 volts. The ignition cutoff circuit is black and white so it might be just ground.

BUSBOZO · 12-22-2009, 08:05 PM

Spent a couple hours this evening getting out the wall screws. I used the air chisel on the screws to loosen up some of the rust first and then zipped them out with the screw gun.

I then used the air chisel to shave off the sheet metal right below the window. That worked great until the cheap piece of crap air chisel crapped out. And then slipping on the bus stairs didn't help either. Damn snow. So after that whole ordeal, I took my frustrations out on the air chisel by smashing that. (it was pretty much dead anyway).

So here is my progress.

BUSBOZO · 12-26-2009, 10:47 PM

Well, today I finished taking the metal off the walls and ripped out the old insulation. I'm glad I did. Turns out most of the windows were leaking. Which would probably explain a lot of the rust on the floor.

Looks like the problem area is the outside lower corners of the windows. The caulking dry rots and loses its seal. So, I started to seal the windows so I do not get any more leakage and I can rustproof the pillars and apply new insulation. I can only imagine how long they have been leaking.

In the close up pic of the rusty pillar you can see a little hole where the water was coming through.

BUSBOZO · 12-27-2009, 01:00 PM

Well after spending a significant amount of time sealing a couple of the windows that were leaking pretty good. I thought I had them sealed. I sprayed some water on them and they were fine.

Of course this morning it was raining and I noticed some water leakage AGAIN. Do you guys think I should remove them and reseal? Would that be more effective than just trying to reseal with the windows in place?

BUSBOZO · 12-27-2009, 03:19 PM

Never mind. I went out to try and take a window out and.. WOW. I can't believe how easy they are to come out. So that will definately be what I need to do. I noticed the edges of the sill are what need to be sealed and that cannot be accomplished easily with the windows in.

Seeria · 12-27-2009, 07:25 PM

OUCH that is some wicked rust. What sealant are you using (for future reference)?

BUSBOZO · 12-27-2009, 09:03 PM

Yeah, this came from Maine. Alot of salt used in the winter up there. Not too bad though. I will grind off the loose rust and use some more rust shield.

I will probably use just some regular silicone sealant. Unless someone has a better idea.

FINALLY got around to scanning my floor plan. What do you guys think? I have a lot of seating incase I want to load up a few friends and go for a cruise. I would almost kind of like to have some type of living room setup. But I would probably need to change the entire floor plan.

I'm open to any ideas.

BUSBOZO · 01-03-2010, 08:53 AM

So, for the past week or so I've been going crazy trying to stop all the water leaks coming in from the edge of the window sills and drippping down the pillars.

I've taken windows completely out cleaned the sills globbed sealent in the sill corners and then drop the window back in place (after scraping off old caulking). I've also sealed underneath the sill on the inside corners (see above pic). AND after the window is back in I seal the outside of the window.

I think someone on here said its impossible to get a school bus to NOT leak water somewhere. I guess they were right.

I know I could just skin them and be done with it. But I would still need to seal the windows that won't be skinned. I certainly don't want to skin them all and have to buy rv windows and install them. My skills are very limited when it comes to that stuff. Besides I really don't like the look of the solid patches on the outside.

I guess I will just have to keep working on getting the leaks fixed.

BUSBOZO · 01-03-2010, 08:55 AM

Started restoration on the "BACKING" sign.

browncrown · 01-04-2010, 01:35 PM

The floorplan looks nice...I bet it will be great

BUSBOZO · 01-04-2010, 07:03 PM

Thanks Brown Crown. Actually I changed my floorplan because I wanted to incorporate a living room area somehow.

Here it is here.

RazorCityDen · 01-04-2010, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BUSBOZO

JUST GOT THE DEAL OF THE CENTURY!!! 6 OF THESE 11R22.5 TIRES FROM WORK FOR FREEEEEEEEEEE!!! The buses that use these tires are being put out of service and they won't need them anymore!!

I'm excited!! I actually only need 2 new front ones. I also got some open center rims from another school bus company that my buddy works for that are in nicer shape than the ones on the bus. Again. FOR FREE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good score on the tires!

I'm hunting new skins right now myself, but not having your kind of luck!

Take care,
Den

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