College student taking on 2000 Thomas Saf-t Liner

[nachosforjoe]

Originally Posted by Tango

Mortar ???

Filling in gaps between pieces of wood. Its more of patching material. Working on getting a level base between the plywood on the floor

[Tango]

There are some two-part epoxy "mortars & grouts" that are tough as nails but any conventional cement based product is doomed to fail due to all the flexing these bus bodies do.

[nachosforjoe]

Managed to start paint priming and hanging walls this weekend! Went with drywall over plywood for price. Choose mold resistant drywall(Same stuff you use in a bathroom). Hoping I made a good choice on this and that I won't regret it down the line... But it isn't looking bad hung up. Will eventually paint over it once it is all hung up. I also have insulation behind it to hopefully keep the elements away. Painting is a pain in the ass due to the fact I only have a six gallon air compressor. Might be renting a larger one next time I paint.

[porkchopsandwiches]

Not to be a downer but I see a few problems here.

1) The mortar in the wheel well area...why did you do this? To level it up? That really isn't necessary with the ply subfloor and it is likely going to just crack and make a mess, not to mention the water (though small amount) this intriduces into the steel. I would have just tried to shim it up with thinner wood, and patch any holes with steel and weld them in, or rivet.

2) No foam under the floor. Not just for temperature insulating properties, but also noise and vibration dampening. When I walked on my bus without any floor other than metal it was like CLANG CLANG and loud, I feel like just plywood it would still be pretty loud. I used 1/2 inch foam board which adds a little cushion to your step and dramatically reduces noise and "cold feet" feeling when it is cold out. It is a small price to pay for a huge difference!

3) DRYWALL. Not to be a dick but notice how nobody has used drywall in any of their builds? As mentioned by others, these buses flex an absurd amount with the harsh, leaf-sprung ride. I built mine with OSB (like plywood but wood chips glued together not sheets) and old commercial doors and I have already had a dozen screws break / fall out and some brackets holding them up break or get super loose. That is only like 3,000 miles of travel so far, I'd hate to see what 5,000 miles does to your bus especially with drywall. It is a shitty building material even in homes, and has absolutely no give. Wood is real flexible, not to toot my own horn, but why I went with finished OSB for the walls. It is much more durable to impact (think stuff flying around cause you forgot to secure something) if something hits it.

4) Paint: you're not doing the whole thing black are you? First of all yes you will need a bigger compressor, and unless you are planning on putting in a huge A/C unit this thing will be an OVEN even with insulation. Mine is a dark-ish green with a white roof and it is still SO hot in the sun (I don't have a/c). Black would be even worse.

Keep up the good progres though, I just would hate to see you build this and have it fall apart while driving or be not what you expected.

[Tango]

I have to second some of Porkchops concerns. Having built a 40' Blue Bird, which is among the very stoutest chassis ever made, I can tell you they flex from end to end. They are designed to do a certain amount. And anything truly rigid is going to be fighting that flex any time the bus is in motion. Drywall is just chalk pressed between two pieces of paper and will almost certainly begin fracturing from the get go. It is also very susceptible to moisture and mold which makes it a really bad choice for a metal can that sweats a lot. The rigidity issue is why I earlier questioned "mortar". I work with cement-based media almost daily and love the stuff...but would never consider it for use in a bus.

While there is no one "right way" to create a bus conversion...there are quite a few ways that have proven wrong. And, again, like Porkchop, I'd hate to see anyone invest a huge amount of time & money only to have it start coming apart on what should be a happy maiden voyage.

[Ponyracer]

X3 on the drywall. At a minimum all the joints will crack and the screws will pull through the boards eventually. This happens all the time in new residential construction as the "green" wood dries and twists. Look at any stick framed homes and you'll prob see cracks in the walls. This process will be sped up by 100 with the flex in the bus.

[cowlitzcoach]

I hope you are leaving access points through the floor that were in the factory floor.

Trust me when I tell you those will come in handy if you ever have to access those areas in the future.

The most important ones are at the back. There are certain things on the engine and transmission that are only able to be accessed from inside the bus. If you do not allow for access the only way in which you will be able to access those areas is to drop the engine and/or the transmission.

The ones forward access the top of the fuel tank(s). If you ever have a sending unit issue or fuel line collapse or fouling being able to access without having to drop the tank can save many hours and $$$.

Good luck and happy trails.

[porkchopsandwiches]

Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach

I hope you are leaving access points through the floor that were in the factory floor.

Trust me when I tell you those will come in handy if you ever have to access those areas in the future.

The most important ones are at the back. There are certain things on the engine and transmission that are only able to be accessed from inside the bus. If you do not allow for access the only way in which you will be able to access those areas is to drop the engine and/or the transmission.

The ones forward access the top of the fuel tank(s). If you ever have a sending unit issue or fuel line collapse or fouling being able to access without having to drop the tank can save many hours and $$$.

Good luck and happy trails.

Actually, unfortunately these don't have any engine area access panels, the only one is in the floor near the front over the fuel tank. But for valve adjustments / injector replacements I sure wish it did have some...

[nachosforjoe]

Originally Posted by porkchopsandwiches

Not to be a downer but I see a few problems here.

1) The mortar in the wheel well area...why did you do this? To level it up? That really isn't necessary with the ply subfloor and it is likely going to just crack and make a mess, not to mention the water (though small amount) this intriduces into the steel. I would have just tried to shim it up with thinner wood, and patch any holes with steel and weld them in, or rivet.

2) No foam under the floor. Not just for temperature insulating properties, but also noise and vibration dampening. When I walked on my bus without any floor other than metal it was like CLANG CLANG and loud, I feel like just plywood it would still be pretty loud. I used 1/2 inch foam board which adds a little cushion to your step and dramatically reduces noise and "cold feet" feeling when it is cold out. It is a small price to pay for a huge difference!

3) DRYWALL. Not to be a dick but notice how nobody has used drywall in any of their builds? As mentioned by others, these buses flex an absurd amount with the harsh, leaf-sprung ride. I built mine with OSB (like plywood but wood chips glued together not sheets) and old commercial doors and I have already had a dozen screws break / fall out and some brackets holding them up break or get super loose. That is only like 3,000 miles of travel so far, I'd hate to see what 5,000 miles does to your bus especially with drywall. It is a shitty building material even in homes, and has absolutely no give. Wood is real flexible, not to toot my own horn, but why I went with finished OSB for the walls. It is much more durable to impact (think stuff flying around cause you forgot to secure something) if something hits it.

4) Paint: you're not doing the whole thing black are you? First of all yes you will need a bigger compressor, and unless you are planning on putting in a huge A/C unit this thing will be an OVEN even with insulation. Mine is a dark-ish green with a white roof and it is still SO hot in the sun (I don't have a/c). Black would be even worse.

Keep up the good progres though, I just would hate to see you build this and have it fall apart while driving or be not what you expected.

1. I am going to remove the mortar. Using caulk to fill gaps instead now. Just havent had a chance to remove it. I did think about cracking after the fact.

2. I am going to add the foam on top of the wood. Or would it have been better to put under the wood? Wasnt really sure where to do that.

3. Yeah the drywall was a mistake. I plan to take it down and use this underlayment wood. Thoughts on http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...1178/203183010? Id like to switch to that. Going to take off the drywall this weekend.

4. I was going to put an AC unit on it, especially since Id like to take it to the south next summer. Didnt think too much about the heat on it. I will have to look into paint colors and their affect on vehicle heat

[nachosforjoe]

Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach

I hope you are leaving access points through the floor that were in the factory floor.

Trust me when I tell you those will come in handy if you ever have to access those areas in the future.

The most important ones are at the back. There are certain things on the engine and transmission that are only able to be accessed from inside the bus. If you do not allow for access the only way in which you will be able to access those areas is to drop the engine and/or the transmission.

The ones forward access the top of the fuel tank(s). If you ever have a sending unit issue or fuel line collapse or fouling being able to access without having to drop the tank can save many hours and $$$.

Good luck and happy trails.

Theres only one access point and its in the front. Not really sure whats in it, but I did leave it accessible. It looks covered in the picture but I cut a whole in the plywood so it just lifts right up. Going to continue that til the top flooring

[ol trunt]

Just a heads up on the HD flooring underlayment. While the product does have a nice smooth finish which makes for a perfect looking vinyl or lineo floor, It is assembled with a non water proof glue that gives up the second it gets even moist--thus ruining the floor. If you are sure it won't get wet it'll work just fine. It just seems to me that to take the chance that no water will seep in under the floor is too big a risk.

[nachosforjoe]

Originally Posted by ol trunt

Just a heads up on the HD flooring underlayment. While the product does have a nice smooth finish which makes for a perfect looking vinyl or lineo floor, It is assembled with a non water proof glue that gives up the second it gets even moist--thus ruining the floor. If you are sure it won't get wet it'll work just fine. It just seems to me that to take the chance that no water will seep in under the floor is too big a risk.

hm? Not sure what you are talking about. The wood is attached with screws to the floor?

[ol trunt]

I see why you didn't understand. Let's see if I do . You are going to use the underflooring on the walls. Right? if so, the same problem exists. If it gets wet the glue melts and the plywood separates. As an alternative you could use "
hardboard". While Home Depot carries it I don't recall the product name but it is brown in color, comes in 4X8' sheets, is 1/8" thick, is easily cut with a jig saw, bends to contours (with care), is cheaper than subflooring and can be waterproofed with shellac. Once waterproofed it resists water very well. Pieces should be coated with shellac after being cut and fit to assure the edges are sealed. I have tried sealing the subflooring material but have had less than steller results. Another thing to consider is that plywood subflooring does add a little structural support ('till it gets wet) whereas the brown sheeting doesn't. On the other hand, plywood is a b---h to bend and shape------- Hope this helps. Jack

[nachosforjoe]

Originally Posted by ol trunt

I see why you didn't understand. Let's see if I do . You are going to use the underflooring on the walls. Right? if so, the same problem exists. If it gets wet the glue melts and the plywood separates. As an alternative you could use "
hardboard". While Home Depot carries it I don't recall the product name but it is brown in color, comes in 4X8' sheets, is 1/8" thick, is easily cut with a jig saw, bends to contours (with care), is cheaper than subflooring and can be waterproofed with shellac. Once waterproofed it resists water very well. Pieces should be coated with shellac after being cut and fit to assure the edges are sealed. I have tried sealing the subflooring material but have had less than steller results. Another thing to consider is that plywood subflooring does add a little structural support ('till it gets wet) whereas the brown sheeting doesn't. On the other hand, plywood is a b---h to bend and shape------- Hope this helps. Jack

what glue separates? The description of the item said it was designed for moisture environments I thought

[r_w]

Tons of internet stories to say the HD underlayment sucks. It doesn't hold up to repeated moisture. The stuff from Lowe's was better, but still not great.

But that is subject to change with out notice. Odds are the Lowe's product starting to suck long before the HD product gets better.

All the plywood delaminates these days, even exterior grade-they all are using cheap glue and lots of voids and spongy inner layers to wick and hold the moisture. Shoot, even marine grade will delaminate if treated badly enough.

[nachosforjoe]

Do you have any product recommendation? I might just go with OSB in that case

[Docsgsxr]

Originally Posted by ol trunt

I see why you didn't understand. Let's see if I do . You are going to use the underflooring on the walls. Right? if so, the same problem exists. If it gets wet the glue melts and the plywood separates. As an alternative you could use "
hardboard". While Home Depot carries it I don't recall the product name but it is brown in color, comes in 4X8' sheets, is 1/8" thick, is easily cut with a jig saw, bends to contours (with care), is cheaper than subflooring and can be waterproofed with shellac. Once waterproofed it resists water very well. Pieces should be coated with shellac after being cut and fit to assure the edges are sealed. I have tried sealing the subflooring material but have had less than steller results. Another thing to consider is that plywood subflooring does add a little structural support ('till it gets wet) whereas the brown sheeting doesn't. On the other hand, plywood is a b---h to bend and shape------- Hope this helps. Jack

Har-d-board or Har-d-plank. Also in grey.

[Ponyracer]

Hardyboard on the inside? Seems that would add a TON of weight.

Op, why not look through threads on here and do similar things? I know it's "boring" but everyone does it for a reason. It works, and works well.

Bare floor
Paint
Hard board insulation
Plywood
engineered hardwood/vinyl/carpet etc.

for the walls, fir them out with 2x2's insulate between them and cover with bead board, tongue and groove etc.

[porkchopsandwiches]

Originally Posted by nachosforjoe

Do you have any product recommendation? I might just go with OSB in that case

Check out my thread. I did wood framing on the walls like you did, then foam insulation, then tyvek, OSB on the walls, and sanded, stained and painted the OSB. It looks really good and was very inexpensive to do. For the floor I used 1/2" closed cell foam insulation and 1/2" OSB, screwed to the floor, which also works well and feels good underfoot; cushy yet solid. Look over my thread for how to do it well on a budget, I spent MAAAAYBE a grand on my whole interior. Furnishings and all.

Again not to sound like a pompous asshole but I really don't want to see you do this in a way that will disappoint you, because I know how it feels to have a big project not turn out the way you want and the depression that ensues.

[ol trunt]

Sometimes experience is the best teacher. Good luck