Diesel Dan's Skoolie - Page 3

Diesel Dan · 12-29-2009, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pied Typer

What are you planning on doing with your red and yellow upper flashers? You may be better off addressing them and the patch for the rust at the same time?

I'm going to leave the flashers alone for now. If anything, I will replace the lenses with clear lenses and maybe a stronger bulb to use as outdoor lighting or to augment my reverse lights. For now, I'll just swap the amber and red lights so I have all amber in front and all red in back.

Diesel Dan · 12-29-2009, 09:31 PM

I wasn't able to post more than 3 pics last time, so I thought I'd add a couple more.

Here is the wheelchair lift removed:

I'm sort of agonizing about whether or not to keep it. That is a rather large chunk of metal that I could be rid of. It would free up some space in my storage area, allowing me to have a closet I might otherwise not be able to have. BUT... It would be useful for lifting barrels of WVO, perhaps a small motorcycle, or any number of other heavy items I might haul. I think I will likely keep it for now. I can always change my mind later if I find I'm not using it enough. It really doesn't affect the basic floorplan that much, and if I dump it later, it would be easy to reconfigure the utility area at that time.

The bottom of the lift is really rusty. I scraped off major chunks of loose rust. But the floor under the plywood was in good shape.

Today I went to home depot and got a gallon of rustoleum rusty metal primer, and I pondered flooring options some more. They had some really thin 1/4" laminate flooring for $1.00/sq.ft. (http://tinyurl.com/ye3dwhq) that looked pretty good, and also some self-adhesive vinyl tiles (http://tinyurl.com/4ms8qo) for the same price that looked like parquet wood flooring, that were like 1/8" thick. I'm leaning towards one of these options instead of just putting polyurethane over plywood, mainly because I'd have to spend $15 or $20 a sheet to get nice enough plywood for that purpose, and at that point I might as well just get some nicer flooring and cheaper plywood. Especially if it doesn't affect my headroom very much. The laminate wood was definitely nicer looking than the tiles, but the tiles seem easier to deal with, are thinner, and would be easier to replace if damaged. Hmmm...

reverend d · 12-30-2009, 02:26 AM

With the temperature changes a bus would see, those self adhesive ones may give some problems and develop gaps, least they did in a mobile home I had, that said I did use some better quality ones in the back bathroom and those were fine so I don't know. Just thought I'd mention it.

Regards,

Rev. D.

Seeria · 12-30-2009, 08:32 AM

A quick note on that those holes up by the lights... have you considered something like eternabond? Maybe lay a bit over then do a metal plate over it?
Here is a thread about using it on RVs.

Diesel Dan · 12-30-2009, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reverend d

With the temperature changes a bus would see, those self adhesive ones may give some problems and develop gaps...

Thanks for that heads-up - I'll give that some thought. When they developed gaps, was it due to migration caused by failure of the adhesive? Or did they shrink? I wonder what would happen if I were to add a few drops of additional adhesive to each tile?

Diesel Dan · 12-31-2009, 01:12 PM

Ah Smitty, you're always trying to push me out of my comfort zone!

Great ideas for sure, but they are just beyond the realm of my reality.

reverend d · 01-01-2010, 03:10 AM

[quote=Diesel Dan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by "reverend d":3ha7jg2n

With the temperature changes a bus would see, those self adhesive ones may give some problems and develop gaps...

Thanks for that heads-up - I'll give that some thought. When they developed gaps, was it due to migration caused by failure of the adhesive? Or did they shrink? I wonder what would happen if I were to add a few drops of additional adhesive to each tile?[/quote:3ha7jg2n]

Honestly I think it was indeed a matter of adhesion. The tiles were of cheaper quality, the ones I used in the back were armstrong much thicker and just better than the lower priced home depot stuff. I did roll both of them with the weight but if you go that route make sure you spend the money on a good product and you probably won't have a problem. I just wanted to make sure you didn't get something that was bargain bin and end up moving on you like ours did and our temperatures in the mobile home with central heat and air were a bit more stable than you might encounter. Good luck with it!

Regards,

Rev. D.

Sojakai · 01-01-2010, 07:22 PM

I still think you could build a cabinet to fit around the lift to hide it. And if you get rid of the lift later, just put a back and some shelves in the cabinet like you might do anyways. When you want to use the lift, just open the cabinet doors and the outside door and your good to go.

Diesel Dan · 01-02-2010, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sojakai

I still think you could build a cabinet to fit around the lift to hide it. And if you get rid of the lift later, just put a back and some shelves in the cabinet like you might do anyways. When you want to use the lift, just open the cabinet doors and the outside door and your good to go.

Your cabinet idea is definitely growing on me. It would help contain the noise, and would likely create a nice linear surface to which other things could be attached.

Diesel Dan · 01-02-2010, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smitty

DD- On the rusted area near the rear flashers, I would trim-off the remaining rust, and rivet a patch onto the area (put the patch on the inside). You can remove the screws where the end of the roof cap attaches to the rear wall & slide the patch in there to reattach, and the same around the flashers, notch (radius) the patch around those holes, letting the lights hide the rivets. Then mud it in & refinish it.

That piece of metal would be anbother point of entry for rust & leaks...a 60MPH wind at the rear of the bus would likely whip rainwater right up underneath it anyways.

Smitty

Smitty, all your ideas are great, but they are all work work work!

You did make me second-think the curve on the sheet metal though. I may try to hammer the curve out of another similar piece to see if I could get it flat, or just buy a straight piece of metal. I was planning to caulk the hell out of the whole thing, especially the bottom, but that is not the best solution. Plus, being so thin, it would be a potential safety hazard when climbing up to the roof, etc.

Sojakai · 01-03-2010, 02:37 AM

I admit, I came up with the idea while looking at Murphy beds.

For a bit I was debating a bus with a lift, but dont want to look at the lift. So I figured that a cabinet that goes from floor to ceiling and is just wide enough to hold the lift would keep it out of site. When needed, open the doors and use the lift. I figure that you might have to duck some while using the lift, as the upper portions of the cabinet might be used for storage/cubbys/drawers/etc. But who knows.

Diesel Dan · 01-24-2010, 08:55 PM

I finally got the rust on the upper rear flasher light area patched. After grinding the rust with an angle grider, treating with rust converter, and painting with rustoleum rusty metal primer, I took a long piece of sheet metal that came from the inside flooring edges, and hammered out the curve using a 2x4 between the sledge hammer and metal to prevent dents. Then I made cutouts for the 4 lights and cut the length down to span the width of the bus using sheet metal clippers and a nibbler. Then riveted the metal onto the bus and used silicone caulk to seal it. I only riveted the top because on the bottom there is a double layer of metal on the bus that is much harder to drill through. I might have someone spot weld the bottom. The photo was taken before the caulk dried. It dried clear and looks fine to me. We'll see once it's painted...

You can also see that I got some of the glue off from the sticker. I used acetone and 000 steel wool. Not fun. I just read a post about using 3M adhesive remover, and may get some of that.

Diesel Dan · 02-04-2010, 11:26 PM

I've been working on the rusty floor areas lately, and the other night as I pondered how I was going to work around the wheelchair lift, I had a realization: I really don't think I need that thing! The more I think about it, the more I'm convinced that I just won't use it enough to justify the space it takes up. Once I came to this decision, it really opened up new possibilities for the floorplan. Mainly, I'll be able to have bunks beds that are actually long enough for me to sleep in without sacrificing kitchen space, and I'll have more storage space for gear, and I'll be able to have a shower. I put the lift on craigslist for $350. We'll see if I get any bites. That cash would certainly help move things forward as well.

Diesel Dan · 02-06-2010, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by emcnie

Hey DD,
nice pics on the photo album. amazing what crud came out of the rail above the windows... yeck.

quick question: how did you remove the ceiling panels? I'm assuming the last couple of pics were from after you reinstalled the ceiling panels?
keep up the good work!

emcnie, you posted on the wrong thread. That's someone else's bus. I saw that one too, but can't remember who's it was.

Diesel Dan · 02-13-2010, 07:53 PM

So I took off the access panel over the rear door to look at some wiring back there, and as I'm feeling around in there I feel something unusual. I pull out an 8"x11" manilla envelope which contains something substantial. What could it be? I eagerly tear it open, and what do I find...

YES!! That will make for some nice bedtime reading for sure!

Diesel Dan · 02-13-2010, 08:07 PM

Today I finally put down the first coat of paint on the floor. I had previously treated with rust converter. I etched the galvanized metal with vinager yesterday, and then wiped it down with plain water this morning. Here it is ready for paint:

Then I mixed 1 pint of acetone into the gallon of Rustoleum rusty metal primer, and then I added 2 cups of the paint insulating ceramic micro-beads. Here is the floor with the first coat of primer. I used half of the paint. Tomorrow I'll do a second coat, as is recommended by the insulation product company to get even distribution of the beads. I have not painted the last 5 feet or so of the bus where the lift is in the way. I'll lay down my flooring to that point, move the lift forward, and then do all the steps in the last 5 feet of the bus. Or maybe someone will buy that lift soon! Here is the freshly painted floor. Isn't that a beautiful sight?!

I feel like I'm making the transition from demolition to building. Very exciting! I just wish I had more free time to put into it, and more agreeable weather. As it is, it was 50 degrees when I painted today, and the paint label said it should be above 50. It is only getting colder as it gets dark. Oh well, hopefully it'll be fine. My plan for flooring at this point is to use Red Rosin Paper, 1/4" insulation, 1/2" plywood, and then either 1/4" laminate flooring or 1/4" vinyl tile on the areas that are not covered by furniture or cabinets. That will mean I have just slightly less headroom than when I bought the bus with 3/4" plywood and 1/4" rubber mat. I had just enough headroom to stand up straight in the middle of the bus with 1/2" clearance above my head. I also plan to add 1/4" cork sheeting to the ceiling, so that will bring me to 0" headroom. So, slight head-bowing, but no hunching.

Seeria · 02-14-2010, 07:34 AM

Yeah so if I get the same model and all, how much to have those buggers copied to pdf format? lol Great find!

Diesel Dan · 02-16-2010, 01:01 AM

It's a little early yet for this, but I did some brainstorming on exterior paint schemes. These are crude mockups, of course. Any thoughts?

Obviously I like green and white with a sun motif on the front and some sort of other nature themed designs on the skinned windows. I also like the hammered silver enamel on wheels/bumpers etc. I will likely be in hot climates most of the time, so the roof has to be white. I had several other permutations of the same themes, but these basically capture my main ideas.

Seeria · 02-16-2010, 06:34 PM

I like deeper greens myself, but if you're in hot climates then I'd go as white/light as can to help reflect not absorb. Tree logos are good

Diesel Dan · 02-16-2010, 08:15 PM

I let each of my kids make their own paint scheme.

My 7 year old boy came up with this one:

My 11 year old son came up with this one:

My 5 year old daughter decided this is the way to go:

Hmmmm.... and I thought I was pushing my comfort zone with some of my designs!

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