|
|
08-10-2022, 02:51 PM
|
#61
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 802
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
|
Roof top A/C
Finally! The roof top A/C has been installed. Dometic Brisk Air 2, 13500 BTU.
The exterior shroud is black because they didn't have a white shroud in stock.
I imagine that this unit may struggle if parked under the sun on a hot day, time will tell. The interior shroud hangs down enough that if I really try to stand tall, my hair brushes the knobs, I really don't have a lot of hair on top so it's very close.
Next item is floor covering.
|
|
|
08-16-2022, 06:41 AM
|
#62
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 802
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
|
Ceiling completed
Since the flooring contractor is delayed.
I spent the past couple of days getting the rest of the ceiling planks installed and got 90% of the overhead kitchen storage built.
I hope to get the interior painted soon, that will require at least 1 day for paint prep. Caulking corners, some sanding and such.
Ceiling planks are 1/4" thick, tongue and groove pine boards secured with broad head "wood to metal" self drilling screws. I pre drilled through the boards and used a countersink bit on each hole to prevent the screws from splitting the somewhat flimsy wood.
|
|
|
08-16-2022, 08:44 AM
|
#63
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 404
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird Mini-Bird 24'
Chassis: Chevy P30
Engine: Chevy 6.2L Diesel
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by BarnYardCamp
The interior shroud hangs down enough that if I really try to stand tall, my hair brushes the knobs, I really don't have a lot of hair on top so it's very close.
|
I was just browsing skoolie.com the other day, and noticed they had something like a 3" A/C standoff to prevent something like that from happening. I don't recall how much it cost, or even if it was in stock or not, but I would imagine that with a picture of it, and with the measurements (or the actual bus), you could probably find a machine/job shop that would be willing to mock something similar to that up for you that shouldn't hurt the bank too much.
|
|
|
08-16-2022, 09:27 AM
|
#64
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 802
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
|
The interior A/C shroud is tight against the ceiling, it just happens to be a couple inches deep itself.
|
|
|
08-26-2022, 09:29 AM
|
#65
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 802
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
|
interior paint
I'm now waiting on the flooring contractor.
Using this time to get interior painting done. We chose to go with 2 shades of green.(yes, my wife was included in the color selection)
I haven't painted the kitchen cabinet yet, most likely, I'll use the same paint as on the walls. The post between the windows, the window sill, bathroom door trim and over head storage cabinet fronts will all get painted white.
The exposed metal surfaces in the front of the bus need to be prepped then painted with the same paint as on the ceiling. The exposed metal surface of the rear door, once prepped will get the same color as the walls.
|
|
|
08-29-2022, 01:44 PM
|
#66
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 802
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
|
Floor
Contractors showed up today as scheduled (that's a big deal where I live)
Vinyl flooring is installed.
Next, I can install the seats and build the dinette.
|
|
|
09-17-2022, 07:44 PM
|
#67
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 802
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
|
interior paint
I removed as many items from the bus as I could when I had the flooring installed. Taking advantage of the unencumbered space, I finished painting the interior. I also disassembled parts of the dash for a thorough cleaning and fresh paint. (Parts of the dash were tan, most of it was gray.) I used Rustoleum Ultra Coat 2X on the plastic dash parts. (Says on the can that it will adhere to plastic)
I used a razor blade, Goo-Gone and elbow grease to clean up the residue from the numbers and other stuff that had been on the bulk head over the windshield and on parts of the dash, most notably the glove box door. Then, a light sanding of the metal surfaces before applying a coat of primer and finally the top coat.
Painting the wire mesh ceiling was a challenge, first I used a brush which didn't fill the mesh holes but when finished, I could still see the brown. I then used a thin knap roller, that covered better, but also filled some of the mesh. After using the roller, the brown was gone. So I decided having some of the mesh clogged with paint would have to be ok. A couple hours later it occurred to me that I could have used my air compressor to gently blow the paint out of the mesh.
I also painted the shroud covering the A/C and used fabric paint on the padded panel under the A/C and on the protective pads over the front door.
I still need to paint the interior of the rear E-exit door and the chair lift door.
PICS : Interior, front of the bus "before" (older photo)
Interior front of the bus "after"
Dash parts on the painting bench (tailgate)
|
|
|
09-22-2022, 07:20 PM
|
#68
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 802
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
|
Toilet installed
Used schedule 80, 1/2" PVC to go through the floor, floor flange, 8" threaded nipple, 2 threaded 90's,
two 1/2" NPT to 3/8" barbed fittings, PVC glue.
I used my dremel with a rotary bit to cut away the stop ring (edge) in the center of the floor flange, then used my bandsaw to cut off about a half inch of the floor flange base so it would fit closer to the interior wall.
Set toilet in place to insure that the plumbing coming through the floor had clearance. Drilled hole through floor, pushed pvc nipple through the floor from underneath making sure that the barbed end was facing the desired direction.
Inside the bus, dabbed a tiny bit of paint on the pvc nipple and on the bus floor so I didn't mess up the alignment of the fitting under the bus. Slipped the modified floor flange over the nipple then attached the 90, made sure the threaded connections were tight, rechecked the alignment, applied PVC glue to the nipple and pushed the glued portion into the floor flange, let the glue set then attached the floor flange to the floor with screws.
(Hoping to complete all of the plumbing connections tomorrow.)
PICS:
parts used for going through the floor
floor flange with stop ring/edge still in place
parts assembled after floor flange modified
Nipple through the floor with position/orientation marked
through the floor assembly attached to the floor
toilet installed
|
|
|
10-03-2022, 07:48 PM
|
#69
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 802
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
|
Passenger area heat (when driving)
Items used; 9" heater from Jeg's
1" to 5/8" heater hose adapters from NAPA
2 heater by pass hoses from NAPA
assorted hose clamps
4) 2" "L" brackets used as heater mounts
4) 5" "L" brackets used as seat mounts
assorted 5/16" bolts for seat mount
scrap pieces of 2x4
corrugated plastic hose protectors...recovered from bus durring the demo
occasional outburst of profanity
I bought the Jegs 9" heater. Just under $200. It has a 3 speed motor, comes with the switch.
I wanted to keep the factory 2 speed switch that was already in the drivers control panel. Hooked up the power to the new heater to get an idea of how fast the fan blew at the different settings. Decided to use the "low" and "medium" speeds, I figured out which wires from the bus were low and high and connected them to the low and medium wires on the heater.
Raised the heater hoses from the bus (that I had previously cut and looped during bus demo.) High enough to keep coolant from running out. Recut those hoses to the required length then slipped the plastic hose protectors on followed by the pieces of 2 x 4 that hold everything in place. installed the by-pass hoses and hose size reducers which I had already assembled. Then I attached the hoses to the new heater
No spills...woohoo!
Started the bus and let it warm up, no leaks.
Used a cutting disc on my angle grinder to cut the bus duct work down to size (about 2') painted the duct work with metal primer then applied the same top coat as used on the bus interior walls. Some minor touch up is still required.
Assembled everything...that's where the profanity came into play.
Pics;
Heater on floor to get idea of the final location.
original heater hoses cut and reassembled with reduced size hose. (The rubber plugs in the end of the 5/8" hoses were from the heater, they fit tight enough to work as spill prevention while I was assembling everything)
bus duct work sanded and primed
hoses assembled, ready for bus duct work to be installed
duct work installed, heater installation complete
seat installed over the heater
Heater hose reducer from NAPA
|
|
|
10-05-2022, 07:52 PM
|
#70
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 802
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
|
"camper" seating installed
Previous post showed the bench seat installed, part of the heater install project.
Since then, the 2 bucket seats mounted on swivel bases have now been mounted as are the cooler/benches for the dinette. In what turned out to be unbelievable good luck, none of the bolts hit any of the framework under the bus.
Some of the bolts under the bus were challenging to reach, that issue was resolved by using electrical tape to tape the nut and washer to a long wrench. I was able to hold the wrench in place while my son turned the bolt from inside the bus.
Another challenge was marking the floor where the cooler benches were mounted, he cooler bases are 3/4" thick, with the gray floor, pencil marks were useless. I dabbed a little bit of white caulk on a nail head then dropped the nail into the mounting holes. Once the holes were drilled, I put the cooler benches in place and used a marker to mark the drain hole. Used a 3/4" hole saw to cut through the floor. I used multi-purpose PVC glue to glue 3/8" (ID) re-enforced tubing into the drain holes. I'm pretty sure that the drain hoses aren't going anywhere.
Pictures just show what is described above. Last 2 pics show the chairs in place.
Next up, dinette table.
|
|
|
10-13-2022, 01:24 PM
|
#71
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 802
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
|
Dining Table
The dining table is complete.
I used 5/8" plywood, left over Formica from the kitchen counter, a few scrap pieces of 3/4" thick lumber, 2 floor flanges, a piece of 1-1/2" pvc pipe, 2 pvc threaded adaptors, two 4" "L" brackets, painters tape and assorted screws.
I learned a few things while doing this....mostly that I was doing it wrong...
(Apparently, I should have attached the Formica to the edges first)
The table is supported by two "L" brackets attached to the bus wall and a single leg described later.
I attached two 4" "L" brackets to the wall of the bus, making sure that 1 of the "L" brackets would be attached to a rib for extra strength.
I cut the table top from a partial sheet of 5/8" plywood. Used scrap lumber (3/4" thick) to reinforce the 3 exposed edges of the table top, attached with glue and screws. I also attached a 6" square piece of 3/4 plywood that would be the attachment point for the single leg on the table.
I then cut a piece of Formica slightly larger than the table top, using painters tape on both sides of the Formica to prevent chipping while cutting. Glue was applied to both the wood and the Formica, the Formica was put in place and weight was applied. Left the project at that point for the glue to dry.
The next day, I cut the Formica for the table's edge, again applying painters tape to prevent the Formica from being damaged while cutting. Applied glue to both surfaces and used a bunch of clamps to hold everything in place.
3rd Day (today)
Determined what the height of the table top would be by measuring from the top of the previously installed "L" brackets on the wall of the bus. After some simple math...height of the table at the top, minus material thickness and minus the height of the floor flange - PVC adaptor assemblies, I cut the table leg from a left over piece of schedule 40 PVC pipe. Dry assembled the leg to check the final height, then glued the PVC parts together. Attached a floor flange to the table top.
I then set the table in place and marked the holes for the "L" brackets on the underside of the table. Double checked the table height which was about 3/16" too high, adjusted the height by tightening the threaded adaptors into the floor flanges. I used a marker to mark the floor of the bus where that flange would get attached to the bus.
Carried the table back into the shop and used my drill press to drill the holes for the "L" brackets. Took the table back to the bus, drilled the holes in the bus floor for the flange and installed the table.
Pictures: Formica top piece glued and weighted down
Formica edge pieces glued and clamped, also shows the reinforced
table edges.
Table installed (table measures 32" x 24.5")
|
|
|
10-14-2022, 01:19 PM
|
#72
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 802
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
|
Drivers seat
Out with the old, in with the new.
Original seat was well worn and more importantly, didn't have arm rests.
Lesson learned from my first bus..driver's seat must have arm rests.
Anyway, I purchased a new Freightliner air ride seat off EBay about 6 months ago. $250 included shipping.
Today, I removed the old seat, then removed the sliding track off the old seat, installed the sliding track onto the new seat and installed the seat. Used push-lock airline connectors.
A campground customer- retired trucker- gave me a air line and chuck assembly, said he used it to blow out the dust/dirt from the cab of his truck when he was driving. Easy install, one of the push lock fittings I used for the seat install is a "Y". I started the bus and let it run to build up air pressure so I could check for leaks, found none.
Next up, a trip to the repair shop for some maintenance.
PICS:
Old seat out
New seat in
air hose installed.
|
|
|
10-20-2022, 05:48 PM
|
#73
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 802
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
|
Beds
The beds in my bus are 30" x 82". A few months ago I was shopping on the net for custom made mattresses, they are not cheap. Memory says they were something like $600 each for 8" foam.
I had a 9" thick foam queen mattress (30" x 80") in the basement, just taking up space. A quick computer search came up with several YouTube videos of people cutting their foam mattresses to fit their special needs. The videos suggested using an electric carving knife. I couldn't find one at the local thrift shops so I opted to use a machete with a fresh edge on it.
I pulled the mattress cover off, leaving just the foam. Then I used some scrap wood and four 1 x 4 x 8's to make a jig. Put the jig on the floor, put the mattress on it, added to top boards to the jig, making sure they were vertically aligned with the bottom boards. Measured a half dozen more times, then cut the mattress. The first few inches were kind of tuff until I was able to get the cut all he way through the mattress. Then I just used a sawing motion making sure to keep the machete in the jig.
Saved a bunch of money and put a good but unused mattress to use.
Pics: The Jig in parts and in use.
The results.
|
|
|
10-21-2022, 02:50 PM
|
#74
|
Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Northern California (Sacramento)
Posts: 1,424
Year: 1999
Coachwork: El Dorado Fiberglass
Chassis: Ford E450
Engine: V10 Gas
|
Pretty good looking!
Yeah, formica edging should go on first, so the top overlaps the edge not the other way around.
But so what, should hold up for a bit!
|
|
|
11-02-2022, 02:42 PM
|
#75
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 802
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
|
Tires
On Friday, October 28th, I ordered 6 new tires from Simple Tire. Figured they would be shipped via freight (tractor trailer) so I had them shipped to the truck repair shop about 8 miles from my house. They arrived today. I brought them home to store until the bus goes to the shop in January.
I'm very happy with the trans action with Simple Tire and would recommend them if you need tires.
I thought these were Chinese tires...made in Thailand....
|
|
|
11-07-2022, 10:11 AM
|
#76
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 802
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
|
Rear door lock
I used the Skoolie.net search window to see what others had done to secure the rear door on their buses.
For me, the top priority was ease of use. I didn't want to be awakened at 2am and have to fumble with keys to escape from the bus. My search turned up a 2019 post from "Crashcarr" with a short you tube video.
I bought a "jimmy proof" lock. Experimented with placement then modified the strike by cutting about 1/4 inch off the mounting edge and re-drilling the mounting holes. I also shaved off some material from inside one of the "loops" because lifting the strike off of the lock in an arc caused the strike to collide (slightly) with the lock. (The arc caused by the motion of lifting the lock bar on the door, that the strike is attached to)
I do not need to be able to unlock the rear door from the outside, so I did not install the key cylinder.
Materials used:
Ilco Jimmy proof deadbolt, $18.00 from local hardware store
10-24 machine screws and nylon insert hex nuts to attach the strike is to the flat steel lock bar original to the bus.
A small scrap piece of 1/2" plywood as a shim under the lock mechanism.
Black "semi-flat" spray paint on the lock.
Pictures are; the strike, before I modified it, the after picture didn't turn out.
the strike mounted to the bus lock bar/handle
the completed installation.
|
|
|
11-07-2022, 06:06 PM
|
#77
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 802
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
|
dinette improvement
Working on my "punch list" which consist of a bunch of little things needed to complete the conversion. Door locks, window screens and such.
When sitting at the dinette, facing the front of the bus, the foot board of the port side bed made it uncomfortable to lean back. I mad a cushion to remedy that problem. I then installed the other seat back that came with the cooler bench. Unfortunately, that has to be removed as it pushes you too close to the table. (ok, I'm too "thick" around the middle to fit with it on).
Anyway, for the cushion, I used a scrap piece of 1/2" plywood, some scrap material a friend provided from the seats he's pulling out of his bus and foam pipe insulation as the padding. I painted the green material white. The cushion is attached to the foot board of the bed with three 1-1/2" 1/4-20 machine screws, flats and "T" nuts.
|
|
|
11-19-2022, 02:14 PM
|
#78
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 802
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
|
Window screens
I purchased screen making stuff from one of the "big box" stores.
Tried to make my own screens, when I was finished, the screen was the exact size but wouldn't lay flat on a table...screen too tight? Anyway, after repeated attempts, I managed to bend one of the edges. Totally frustrated, I ordered 2 screens (the minimum order) from "Window Screens Now". The new screens arrived pretty quickly.
The screens are intended to be installed as needed. Opening the window then placing one edge of the screen as deep as possible into the window track, then sliding the other edge into the other window track by about 1/4". Works pretty well but left a tiny gap along the top edge of the screen. To close that gap, I purchased "sweep type" self adhering weather-strip. Tested that out today, it's a tight fit, but works. If/when I order more screens I'll adjust the measurements to get just a tad more clearance.
Drawback of doing the screens this way is that the window is inoperable with the screen in place. I haven't made my decision if I'll go this route or copy the method used by FXRFlyer in a post from 2016.
Pictures show the screen install, screen in place, weather-strip used.
|
|
|
11-26-2022, 04:37 PM
|
#79
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 802
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
|
House battery box
House battery box has room for 2 maybe 3 batteries. I plan to start with just 1.
Two vents, one in the floor and the other from the top of the box out the starboard side of the bus. Since I have not purchased the house battery yet, I do not know it's dimensions so I haven't installed the through the floor I-bolts and the piece of angled steel that will hold the battery in place.
|
|
|
11-26-2022, 06:06 PM
|
#80
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 802
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
|
"Punch List" stair well and entry matt
As I get closer to completion, I made a "Punch List" of little things that need to get done...
I didn't like the treads on the steps being tan. So I used Plasti-cote spray paint on them. I also purchased a heavy welcome mat, trimmed it to fit. It is held in place by the top tread/edge.
Pics include before/after of the steps.
|
|
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Threads |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|