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Old 08-10-2022, 02:51 PM   #61
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 469
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
Roof top A/C

Finally! The roof top A/C has been installed. Dometic Brisk Air 2, 13500 BTU.
The exterior shroud is black because they didn't have a white shroud in stock.
I imagine that this unit may struggle if parked under the sun on a hot day, time will tell. The interior shroud hangs down enough that if I really try to stand tall, my hair brushes the knobs, I really don't have a lot of hair on top so it's very close.
Next item is floor covering.
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Old 08-16-2022, 06:41 AM   #62
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 469
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
Ceiling completed

Since the flooring contractor is delayed.

I spent the past couple of days getting the rest of the ceiling planks installed and got 90% of the overhead kitchen storage built.

I hope to get the interior painted soon, that will require at least 1 day for paint prep. Caulking corners, some sanding and such.

Ceiling planks are 1/4" thick, tongue and groove pine boards secured with broad head "wood to metal" self drilling screws. I pre drilled through the boards and used a countersink bit on each hole to prevent the screws from splitting the somewhat flimsy wood.
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Old 08-16-2022, 08:44 AM   #63
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 212
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird Mini-Bird 24'
Chassis: Chevy P30
Engine: Chevy 6.2L Diesel
Quote:
Originally Posted by BarnYardCamp View Post
The interior shroud hangs down enough that if I really try to stand tall, my hair brushes the knobs, I really don't have a lot of hair on top so it's very close.
I was just browsing skoolie.com the other day, and noticed they had something like a 3" A/C standoff to prevent something like that from happening. I don't recall how much it cost, or even if it was in stock or not, but I would imagine that with a picture of it, and with the measurements (or the actual bus), you could probably find a machine/job shop that would be willing to mock something similar to that up for you that shouldn't hurt the bank too much.
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Old 08-16-2022, 09:27 AM   #64
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 469
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
The interior A/C shroud is tight against the ceiling, it just happens to be a couple inches deep itself.
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Old 08-26-2022, 09:29 AM   #65
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 469
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
interior paint

I'm now waiting on the flooring contractor.

Using this time to get interior painting done. We chose to go with 2 shades of green.(yes, my wife was included in the color selection)

I haven't painted the kitchen cabinet yet, most likely, I'll use the same paint as on the walls. The post between the windows, the window sill, bathroom door trim and over head storage cabinet fronts will all get painted white.

The exposed metal surfaces in the front of the bus need to be prepped then painted with the same paint as on the ceiling. The exposed metal surface of the rear door, once prepped will get the same color as the walls.
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Old 08-29-2022, 01:44 PM   #66
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 469
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
Floor

Contractors showed up today as scheduled (that's a big deal where I live)
Vinyl flooring is installed.
Next, I can install the seats and build the dinette.
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Old 09-17-2022, 07:44 PM   #67
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 469
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
interior paint

I removed as many items from the bus as I could when I had the flooring installed. Taking advantage of the unencumbered space, I finished painting the interior. I also disassembled parts of the dash for a thorough cleaning and fresh paint. (Parts of the dash were tan, most of it was gray.) I used Rustoleum Ultra Coat 2X on the plastic dash parts. (Says on the can that it will adhere to plastic)

I used a razor blade, Goo-Gone and elbow grease to clean up the residue from the numbers and other stuff that had been on the bulk head over the windshield and on parts of the dash, most notably the glove box door. Then, a light sanding of the metal surfaces before applying a coat of primer and finally the top coat.

Painting the wire mesh ceiling was a challenge, first I used a brush which didn't fill the mesh holes but when finished, I could still see the brown. I then used a thin knap roller, that covered better, but also filled some of the mesh. After using the roller, the brown was gone. So I decided having some of the mesh clogged with paint would have to be ok. A couple hours later it occurred to me that I could have used my air compressor to gently blow the paint out of the mesh.

I also painted the shroud covering the A/C and used fabric paint on the padded panel under the A/C and on the protective pads over the front door.

I still need to paint the interior of the rear E-exit door and the chair lift door.

PICS : Interior, front of the bus "before" (older photo)
Interior front of the bus "after"
Dash parts on the painting bench (tailgate)
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PTDC0238.jpg   PTDC0263.jpg   PTDC0257.jpg  
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Old 09-22-2022, 07:20 PM   #68
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 469
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
Toilet installed

Used schedule 80, 1/2" PVC to go through the floor, floor flange, 8" threaded nipple, 2 threaded 90's,
two 1/2" NPT to 3/8" barbed fittings, PVC glue.

I used my dremel with a rotary bit to cut away the stop ring (edge) in the center of the floor flange, then used my bandsaw to cut off about a half inch of the floor flange base so it would fit closer to the interior wall.

Set toilet in place to insure that the plumbing coming through the floor had clearance. Drilled hole through floor, pushed pvc nipple through the floor from underneath making sure that the barbed end was facing the desired direction.

Inside the bus, dabbed a tiny bit of paint on the pvc nipple and on the bus floor so I didn't mess up the alignment of the fitting under the bus. Slipped the modified floor flange over the nipple then attached the 90, made sure the threaded connections were tight, rechecked the alignment, applied PVC glue to the nipple and pushed the glued portion into the floor flange, let the glue set then attached the floor flange to the floor with screws.
(Hoping to complete all of the plumbing connections tomorrow.)

PICS:
parts used for going through the floor
floor flange with stop ring/edge still in place
parts assembled after floor flange modified
Nipple through the floor with position/orientation marked
through the floor assembly attached to the floor
toilet installed
Attached Thumbnails
PTDC0268.jpg   PTDC0269.jpg   PTDC0270.jpg   PTDC0271.jpg   PTDC0272.jpg  

PTDC0273.jpg  
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Old 10-03-2022, 07:48 PM   #69
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 469
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
Passenger area heat (when driving)

Items used; 9" heater from Jeg's
1" to 5/8" heater hose adapters from NAPA
2 heater by pass hoses from NAPA
assorted hose clamps
4) 2" "L" brackets used as heater mounts
4) 5" "L" brackets used as seat mounts
assorted 5/16" bolts for seat mount
scrap pieces of 2x4
corrugated plastic hose protectors...recovered from bus durring the demo
occasional outburst of profanity

I bought the Jegs 9" heater. Just under $200. It has a 3 speed motor, comes with the switch.
I wanted to keep the factory 2 speed switch that was already in the drivers control panel. Hooked up the power to the new heater to get an idea of how fast the fan blew at the different settings. Decided to use the "low" and "medium" speeds, I figured out which wires from the bus were low and high and connected them to the low and medium wires on the heater.

Raised the heater hoses from the bus (that I had previously cut and looped during bus demo.) High enough to keep coolant from running out. Recut those hoses to the required length then slipped the plastic hose protectors on followed by the pieces of 2 x 4 that hold everything in place. installed the by-pass hoses and hose size reducers which I had already assembled. Then I attached the hoses to the new heater
No spills...woohoo!
Started the bus and let it warm up, no leaks.

Used a cutting disc on my angle grinder to cut the bus duct work down to size (about 2') painted the duct work with metal primer then applied the same top coat as used on the bus interior walls. Some minor touch up is still required.

Assembled everything...that's where the profanity came into play.

Pics;
Heater on floor to get idea of the final location.
original heater hoses cut and reassembled with reduced size hose. (The rubber plugs in the end of the 5/8" hoses were from the heater, they fit tight enough to work as spill prevention while I was assembling everything)
bus duct work sanded and primed
hoses assembled, ready for bus duct work to be installed
duct work installed, heater installation complete
seat installed over the heater
Heater hose reducer from NAPA
Attached Thumbnails
PTDC0275.jpg   PTDC0278.jpg   PTDC0280.jpg   PTDC0281.jpg   PTDC0286.jpg  

PTDC0287.jpg   PTDC0288.jpg   PTDC0277.jpg  
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Old Yesterday, 07:52 PM   #70
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 469
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
Rated Cap: just the 2 of us
"camper" seating installed

Previous post showed the bench seat installed, part of the heater install project.
Since then, the 2 bucket seats mounted on swivel bases have now been mounted as are the cooler/benches for the dinette. In what turned out to be unbelievable good luck, none of the bolts hit any of the framework under the bus.
Some of the bolts under the bus were challenging to reach, that issue was resolved by using electrical tape to tape the nut and washer to a long wrench. I was able to hold the wrench in place while my son turned the bolt from inside the bus.
Another challenge was marking the floor where the cooler benches were mounted, he cooler bases are 3/4" thick, with the gray floor, pencil marks were useless. I dabbed a little bit of white caulk on a nail head then dropped the nail into the mounting holes. Once the holes were drilled, I put the cooler benches in place and used a marker to mark the drain hole. Used a 3/4" hole saw to cut through the floor. I used multi-purpose PVC glue to glue 3/8" (ID) re-enforced tubing into the drain holes. I'm pretty sure that the drain hoses aren't going anywhere.
Pictures just show what is described above. Last 2 pics show the chairs in place.

Next up, dinette table.
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PTDC0298.jpg   PTDC0290.jpg   PTDC0291.jpg   PTDC0289.jpg   PTDC0294.jpg  

PTDC0293.jpg  
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