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Old 07-12-2018, 10:19 AM   #41
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@EMILEE this is the EXACT same bus we’re in search of! Can you refer me to the company in Az, please?
Excited to follow your journey!

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Old 07-12-2018, 10:48 AM   #42
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Old 07-14-2018, 05:32 PM   #43
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Hi Fadderall
Another from Nevada here out in Pahrump I work out at lake mead so I try to catch the live stream on my way in. Looking for my Skoolie now as I’m getting ready to regire in a couple of years and want to travel. Best of luck
Brian
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Old 07-15-2018, 06:07 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
You should be so thankful you did not try to foam the ceiling with the panels up. Not only would it expand right through all the holes if it's perf panels, and it would have expanded and completely distorted the ceiling. It would have been a nightmare of work to pull that ceiling and fix it.
Thanks Marc good advice. So happy I pulled them instead. Clean start!
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Old 07-15-2018, 06:45 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by ChrisFL View Post
Wow, thanks for the awesome response man! I really appreciate it. Great info

Wife and I are def getting excited about taking on a bus conversion. Not sure why though,
Because Skoolie's are COOL

Quote:
Working on researching manufactures/engines/transmissions and bodies.
Man I been there. Keep researching, but be careful not to get too hung up on those details. It can be a rabbit hole. ALL these buses are old and will have issues here and there. There are a LOT of opinions on what is good and what is not. This is what I learned so far re mechanicals
  1. Older MECHANICAL engines are preferred. By Mechanical they mean no or minimal electronic engine controls (think the computer in your car). Most of the electronic controls on these seem to be about meeting emissions standards and have caused issues with the engines. Also, makes them harder to diagnose/repair. Like a modern car, I have no idea what to fiddle with when I open the hood these days. The most popular engines seem to be DT466, DT530, Cummins 8.3 (in a big bus), Cummins 5.9 (in smaller bus or Dodge Pickup LOL). Most people say steer clear of CAT engines. PRE 2004 seems to be a good cut off for when emissions electronics started getting wacky.
  2. Transmission. I think this one is sort of easy. In order of preference seems to be the 3060 then the 643 and last is the 545.
  3. As for bus manufacturers, I dont think there is any difference looking at Bluebird vs Thomas vs International etc. as far as the bus goes. The main thing is the engine/trans combo. I did notice that the few Thomas buses (comparable models to my bluebird) that I saw had screws in the ceiling panels rather than rivets. Might save an hour or two on the demo.



Quote:
Able to stand (I'm just 5'9", was heart broken when I learned I wasnt 5'11" a few years ago
A standard inside height of 74" (6'2") should be fine for you. That said, if you have the option to go with a high interior ceiling bus (78" or 6'6") and all things equal, I would take the headroom. Buses I think can be anywhere from 6' to 6'8" but I think the 74" or 78" are most common options. BTW, I am 5'11" and was crushed to find out I never made it to 6'

Quote:
  • "Master" bed for wife and I
  • Two bunks for our one child + future
This is easy to do. Most people do the bunks near the rear and then do the master to take up the full bus width in the very back. This is very common in the RV world. I have a different idea. We are thinking about two sets of bunks across from each other. Top bunks for the kids and the bottom bunks for me and my wife. I know, I know but really do we need a master bedroom? How much privacy do you really think you can have in a bus with 1 or 2 kids? So instead of wasting the whole back end for a bedroom that we will just sleep in, I can now make that area a multipurpose office/craft/work/zen room. Just an idea. But hey, I have been living the dream of separate blankets for almost 20 years now and believe me that is THE SECRET TO A LONG MARRIAGE!

Quote:
  • Private toilet, no shower or sink
If you are doing fresh water tank and sink in kitchen I would put a shower in. At the very least an outdoor deal.

Quote:
  • Sofa (I make seats/divans for VVIP aircraft, think Kings and Presidents) and could probably snag one of our divans that berths out into a full bed once we're done testing at $0.00, so thatd be cool)
WOW AND DAMN!!! That is a dream job for this type of conversion. I cant wait to see yours come out like a private jet. I would be scrimping and scraping whatever materials the boss would let go. Plus, I am sure you have skills and know lots of people with other skills at that job. You just set the bar high on your build.

Quote:
  • A patio on the roof welded up to put a mini split A/C, possibly w/ two zone wall units
Man, I am dreaming of a roof deck. But, I am not sure that it is a good idea for me. I worry about the weight and making the bus top heavy. Also worry about the fam falling off. Im not letting it go yet. If you have any plans or ideas on the deck construction please share. I would put the mini split underneath.

Quote:
  • Solar? Not sure if necessary, but eventually could be nice. Would mostly be staying at places with hook ups, not much boondocking I dont think
If your not boondocking, dont waste the money. All solar does is recharge your batteries. If your plugged in all the time then shore power will handle everything. Maybe you just get enough batteries to go "off grid" for only a day or two. Then, back to the campground to recharge.

Quote:
  • Something with under floor storage already built in to save me some work
I really wanted this too. Now I am second guessing. For storage its amazing. But, for putting in tanks, generator or anything else with weight I dont think it is strong enough. Of course, its not exactly the right dimension either. So, its cool to have but seems you will have to make mods anyway. Next time, I would not make this a deal killer detail.

Quote:
[LIST]I'll build/find storage inside throughout. I plan on doing a lifting bed, for example, to be able to tilt up and have plenty of space for boxes
Lifting bed is cool. Most all RV's have that. I imagine you could find the specific hardware (shocks/brackets) right off the shelf. A bunch of people put the fresh water tank under the bed so that it doesnt freeze.

Quote:
What bus gives me that? Noooooo idea.
My bus has all of that. But, you gotta get your own

Yes, find the closest dealer and go. If its a bit of a drive, make a day or overnight trip out of it. I am sure there are dealers in Florida. I know there are bus people on this forum out in Florida so if you put some feelers out in a post, I am sure you will get some recommendations. Its so fun when you really get to examine these buses up close and in person.

Good luck in your search. It is hard work this bus thing, but very rewarding so far.
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Old 07-15-2018, 06:56 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by SweetlyNatural View Post
@EMILEE this is the EXACT same bus we’re in search of! Can you refer me to the company in Az, please?
Excited to follow your journey!
Yes Chris is correct. Its AAA Bus Sales in Phoenix, AZ. (602) 278-9339 talk to Tony or Joe. Great guys. If you are in the area I highly recomend going in and talking to them. Tell them the guy that brought in the case of rolling rock sent ya.

If you watch the video on the About Us page, thats Tony. Cool dude.
I dont know what inventory they have now, but when I got mine he still had 3-4 of the identical buses left. They probably have my dream bus now and I dont even want to know LOL

Another thing, the inventory on their website seemed to be off or a little outdated when I was looking. They have way more buses then listed. Call them and tell them what you want and they will tell you what they have like that.

Let me know what you guys get. Please post a build thread when you get your bus. You can post a link to it in my build thread. I am always excited to see what ideas people come up with for our type of bus and I learn something from everyone.

GOOD LUCK!
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Old 07-15-2018, 07:01 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by bnbellis3377 View Post
Hi Fadderall
Another from Nevada here out in Pahrump I work out at lake mead so I try to catch the live stream on my way in. Looking for my Skoolie now as I’m getting ready to regire in a couple of years and want to travel. Best of luck
Brian
Brian,
Thanks for watching!
I am envious. You are in the perfect position. You got 2 years. Plenty of time to soak up knowledge and keep your eye out for that awesome deal on your perfect bus.

I learned some time ago that the cliche about the journey is soooo true. The shopping and planning and dreaming phase is always the best. Its pure potential. I wish I had that kind of time to really dig in, but I am happy with my bus.

Keep me posted on what you are looking at. I am always interested in what folks are doing. I am encouraged that there are so many Nevadans doing this bus thing. We should find a way to organize some get togethers or bus events. Build the local skoolie community as it were.
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Old 07-16-2018, 06:26 PM   #48
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@Fadderall , Ideas: I recall a gentleman using the seat metal frames to create undercarriage storage. Since u have some maybe you can use the seat frames to make a roof rack or an extension off the back or front bumper??
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Old 07-16-2018, 06:48 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by lemmeskoolu View Post
@Fadderall , Ideas: I recall a gentleman using the seat metal frames to create undercarriage storage. Since u have some maybe you can use the seat frames to make a roof rack or an extension off the back or front bumper??
OHHHH thats an interesting idea. I have a bunch of seats. Managed to sell a few for $60 total but still have a ton. Plus a good excuse to get a welder right?
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Old 07-16-2018, 09:19 PM   #50
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NEED SOME ADVICE

Got all the panels down yesterday and pulled all insulation, pulled heater lines and vacuumed today. Bus is stripped down inside.



Question 1 - Do people wash the inside of the side walls after taking out insulation? If so, where does the water go?

Question 2 - A lot of threads talk about washing the floor or moping the floor. Again, where does the water go? I have all those bolt holes and the under storage so a good portion of that water is going right into the basement. Should I worry about this? Wash the floor or just blow/vac/sweep/clean real good?

Question 3 - Do I need to treat the ceiling or walls before putting in the new foam? Probably not going with spray just regular board. The spray sounds like more of a nightmare than its worth. I have no rust in ceiling or walls only on floor.

Question 4 - A couple 3 of the bays under the windows had some moisture in the bottom. I cant see well in there but when I took the old insulation out the very bottom edge of the bat was wet (real wet). Strangely, the wet insulation was only on the very bottom edge. The rest of the bat was bone dry. We have had some rain here lately, but how would water only get to the bottom of the bat? Anyone seen this before? Any ideas on steps to find the cause? Could it just be water that came in from the floor? That would make the most sense, except I haven't washed or gotten the floor wet inside at all.

Question 5 - After I scrape/wire brush/pull all the caulk type sealant from around the side of the floor and the wheel wells, what is recommended product to reseal these areas?

Picked up some wire wheels for my angle grinder and got my belt sander fueled up. Back at it again tomorrow 6am PST to fight the rust monster. I might go get one of those flapper disks I saw in the floor thread. Definitely gassing up the leaf blower to blow her out and gonna fly the drone inside the bus to really inspect it well.

BTW I really want to keep the front entrance stock. Im going to post on here see if anyone knows where to get good used, new or NOS parts for the stair treads. Gotta have the bluebird logo.

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Old 07-16-2018, 10:42 PM   #51
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Water is usually a problem only when it pools and collects.


Wait for a warm day, and open the basement storage doors. (May as well wash them out too, right?)

A quick bath isn't going to cause any long-term harm to the metal surfaces on the inside, as long as it has a chance to dry out. You can always open the front door and put a fan in the rear emergency exit to get some extra airflow. I think you mentioned a leaf blower? That would do it too.

It looks like the ceiling was primed/painted with that yellow-ish coating before the insulation was glued in. If it's not coated now, and it's not rusty now, then it's probably designed to be left alone. Look at it this way - if it's gone this long without rusting, and you know the skoolie will be LESS leaky after your conversion, it's probably not going to start rusting anytime soon. A coat of primer wouldn't hurt anything if you feel like doing a little extra work.
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Old 07-16-2018, 11:06 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by Mark_In_MA View Post
Water is usually a problem only when it pools and collects.

Wait for a warm day, and open the basement storage doors. (May as well wash them out too, right?)

Im in Vegas, they are ALL warm days. I might have to wait for the humidity to drop from 35% to our normal 2-5 LOL.

Good call on the ceiling and walls. Your right if they made it this long Im not looking for extra work at this point. The inside of the walls are disgusting with dirt. Its this black soot greasy grime. I do NOT want to put water inside the wall so I guess Ill just try some cleaner, towels and elbow grease for that.

I was inside the bays today getting the heater hose out. The floor of the bays is some kind of thin rubber coated board. Any idea what it is actually made of? Wood with rubber? I would think its too thin for wood core. Anyway, I think your right if I open it all up then shouldn't be a problem.

So, would you recommend this order
wire brush/sand rust and old caulk off
blow/wash/degrease floor
rust reformer
patch holes
prime/paint
?
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Old 07-17-2018, 07:09 AM   #53
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I didn't wash my wall pockets. Having a little fiberglass fluff didn't bother me. Those pockets should not be water tight but it only takes a little dirt to change that.

I didn't have any need to treat the walls or ceiling, it was all perfect.

My wood floor was VERY wet and there was some rust underneath, as soon as the air hit that wet metal it started changing color very fast. Photos: http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/ou...tml#post248711 I washed it twice with simple green and a giant scrub broom and used a squeegee to get most of the water out, then I used fans and my AC system to dry it up. After it dried I did 2 applications of Ospho to the rusthy areas. When that was ready I put some thick primer and two coats of paint. All oil based enamel of course. Pic: https://www.instagram.com/p/Be31Xu3n...nderlounge_bus If you're goingn to use a rust converter, you only want to tremove the rust that is flaking off, take it easy with those wire wheels!

With your basement, I think you should just accept the fact that water is going to come through the floor and make a plan for cleaning and treating your basement area as well.


if I was redoing my insulation and wasn't going to use spray foam, I think I'd do a multi layer approach. Probably use some 1/2 inch Polyiso to press against the metal because it is flexible enough to match the curve, then XPS inside of that.

It isn't too strange that your insulation would only be wet at the bottom, gravity and all! And finding random moisture inside is pretty normal. You have a giant metal can that isn't air (or water) tight, the metal surface has nothing resisting temperature changes, and the fluctuations outside are probably more than enough to get condensation inside. This is one of the advantages of spray foam, it seals against the metal surface so much less chance of a gap that can condensate.

I left my floor edge seal alone. Probably people will recommend Dynatron 550 for it.

Sorry these answers are out of order!
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Old 07-17-2018, 04:56 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by brokedown View Post
I didn't wash my wall pockets. Having a little fiberglass fluff didn't bother me. Those pockets should not be water tight but it only takes a little dirt to change that.
Wait, the wall pockets below the window are not water tight? In your instagram pic of the floor, I am talking about the pockets behind the wall pieces you were taking out in the IG photo. We are talking about the same pockets?
If thats the case, does that mean the caulk at the bottom of the wall were it meets the floor is what keeps the water from getting inside? That bead is the water tight seal to the interior?


Quote:

My wood floor was VERY wet and there was some rust underneath, as soon as the air hit that wet metal it started changing color very fast. Photos: http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/ou...tml#post248711 I washed it twice with simple green and a giant scrub broom and used a squeegee to get most of the water out, then I used fans and my AC system to dry it up. After it dried I did 2 applications of Ospho to the rusthy areas. When that was ready I put some thick primer and two coats of paint. All oil based enamel of course. Pic: https://www.instagram.com/p/Be31Xu3n...nderlounge_bus
Wow, your floor was hammered. Did you really rip out the floor wearing flip flops? You are an IRONMAN!


Quote:
If you're goingn to use a rust converter, you only want to tremove the rust that is flaking off, take it easy with those wire wheels!
Im glad you said that. I hit the rust today and was thinking OK Im done with this, let the OSPHO take it from here. I just didnt want to grind anymore so I am glad you are backing up my laziness LOL.

Quote:
With your basement, I think you should just accept the fact that water is going to come through the floor and make a plan for cleaning and treating your basement area as well.
Yup gonna wash that basement out.

Quote:
if I was redoing my insulation and wasn't going to use spray foam, I think I'd do a multi layer approach. Probably use some 1/2 inch Polyiso to press against the metal because it is flexible enough to match the curve, then XPS inside of that.

It isn't too strange that your insulation would only be wet at the bottom, gravity and all! And finding random moisture inside is pretty normal. You have a giant metal can that isn't air (or water) tight, the metal surface has nothing resisting temperature changes, and the fluctuations outside are probably more than enough to get condensation inside. This is one of the advantages of spray foam, it seals against the metal surface so much less chance of a gap that can condensate.
I was going to use some spray foam. After watching some videos and weighing the cost, I am not sure anymore. Looks like a huge mess and really easy to mess up even if you use a pro. With the working time its not forgiving at all. If I mess up with the XPS or Poly....uh rip it out and cut another piece.

But, now you got me thinking. Would it pay to spray foam those pockets? If they arent sealed, then dont they need air gap to let any water that comes in drain out the bottom? If I filled those pockets with foam, would the foam make a water tight seal to the outside? You think I could just pump the foam down into the pocket and wait for it to rise up to the chair rail, then follow with a spray inside the cavity to finish up to the window? Then put foam board on top of the spray foam to build out to edge of chair rail?

Thanks for the advice. I am going to wash and ospho tomorrow. What did you seal your holes with?
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Old 07-17-2018, 06:59 PM   #55
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I believe we're talking about the same pockets, yeah. Intentionally or not, they end up being the place where water tends to end up. The bead probably doesn't wokr the way you think it does, check out this photo of that pocket as seen from a removed exterior panel: http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/ab...tml#post121807 and also this diagram of how the pieces fit together: http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/ab...tml#post121750

Ultimately, water that ends in that pocket eventually escapes through the body panel not onto the floor.

I did my whole bus in flip flops. Sometimes I regretted it, like when I'm using my grinder, or when my good flip flops get paint on them! The wood in my bus was so wet I was literally ripping it out in handfulls.

Spray foam is messy, it's expensive, and if I could do it over I'd do it myself instead of hiring it out. I've got too many shallow spots that I'm adding Great Stuff to.. And I'm adding a rigid foam layer over most of it anyway. I think I measured those pockets at 2 inchest, I bet you could stuff 2 pieces of 1 inch foam board in them if you tried.

I used a variety of methods to seal floor holes. I did some stainless rivets, some sealer, some aluminum tape, some construction adhesive. Most of the smaller ones filled themselves when I painted.
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Old 07-18-2018, 09:25 PM   #56
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I believe we're talking about the same pockets, yeah. Intentionally or not, they end up being the place where water tends to end up. The bead probably doesn't wokr the way you think it does, check out this photo of that pocket as seen from a removed exterior panel: http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/ab...tml#post121807 and also this diagram of how the pieces fit together: http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/ab...tml#post121750
Ultimately, water that ends in that pocket eventually escapes through the body panel not onto the floor.
Oh wow, thats not how I thought it worked at all. So looks like the sealant on the floor is to keep water out from below (coming up from the road) and has nothing to do with the pocket. Thanks!

This diagram of how the bus side panels and floor are assembled you linked too created by nat_ster is really good. Very helpful to me.

Quote:
I did my whole bus in flip flops. Sometimes I regretted it, like when I'm using my grinder, or when my good flip flops get paint on them! The wood in my bus was so wet I was literally ripping it out in handfulls.
Im impressed!!

Quote:
Spray foam is messy, it's expensive, and if I could do it over I'd do it myself instead of hiring it out. I've got too many shallow spots that I'm adding Great Stuff to.. And I'm adding a rigid foam layer over most of it anyway. I think I measured those pockets at 2 inchest, I bet you could stuff 2 pieces of 1 inch foam board in them if you tried.
Thats the kind of feedback I needed. Seems to be a lot of folks feel that way after the spray foam. I think Im going to stick to boards and great stuff.

Quote:
I used a variety of methods to seal floor holes. I did some stainless rivets, some sealer, some aluminum tape, some construction adhesive. Most of the smaller ones filled themselves when I painted.
Im going to weld, caulk, prime, paint and move on. Im tired of this floor already LOL
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Old 07-18-2018, 10:56 PM   #57
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GOT A WELDER

Well, rented one from Home Depot. Cut some metal pieces to patch the heater hose holes at back, front and either side of the side emergency door.

Floor rust hit with grinder and washed out today. Used Krud Kutter, a hose and scrub broom. Some patching then ready to hit the rust and paint it up.

I am done with this floor!!

Oh, I never welded before so should be interesting.

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Old 07-21-2018, 12:22 PM   #58
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Love your Twitch chat! It’s always a hoot. I can’t wait to see more.
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Old 07-21-2018, 03:34 PM   #59
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Love your Twitch chat! It’s always a hoot. I can’t wait to see more.
Thanks backyard good having you in there. I was going to paint floor today but it’s a blowing dust storm out here. Maybe tomorrow I’ll stream the painting if this storm stops.
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1999 BLUEBIRD TC 2000 RE CUMMINS 8.3 - MT-643
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Old 07-21-2018, 03:52 PM   #60
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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I WELDED HOLES Not the seat holes but the various holes from heater lines and some floor cracks. First time welding. Not pretty and not structural but it will get it done. I tried to weld a couple seat bolt holes, no way. That’s gonna take me way too long. Next prime that floor and move on.








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1999 BLUEBIRD TC 2000 RE CUMMINS 8.3 - MT-643
BUILD THREAD https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/e...ion-23234.html
LIVE STREAM BUILD STARTS 6AM PST M-F https://www.twitch.tv/fadderall
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