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Old 08-14-2018, 11:12 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by bridg73988 View Post
Good to know, I was just thinking Flexseal would fill the nail holes easily and the Flexseal tape or patch could seal the seat bolt holes. There will be insulation and flooring over it and rust converter/paint under it.
Those flex seal products, while they work, are very expensive for the amount of material you get.

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Old 08-14-2018, 11:24 AM   #102
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How many times during the life off the bus did the fuel access door need to be accessed under the vinyl and plywood floor? My money says never. The fuel gauge unit that is accessed through the trap door can be accessed from under the bus. If the patch is under a cabinet I will try and keep access, if not, I don't think it's an issue that needs lots of engineering to work around. My bus has 250k on, doubt I'll need to access that anytime soon.
On my bus the only way to get the sending unit out of the tank is to either drop the cage and tank or pop open that access hole.
Or do what I do and forego the gauge. I keep a dowel to dip in the tank lol.
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Old 08-14-2018, 12:43 PM   #103
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The only reason you will ever need access to the sending unit...is if you cover it up.
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Old 08-14-2018, 01:08 PM   #104
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+1 dont cover up the fuel sending unit.. its a school bus.. a plate in the floor gives it character.. you can even make that plate look like something cool.. like a trap door for your pet mouse or something.. keep it...
-Christopher
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Old 08-14-2018, 01:25 PM   #105
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+1 dont cover up the fuel sending unit.. its a school bus.. a plate in the floor gives it character.. you can even make that plate look like something cool.. like a trap door for your pet mouse or something.. keep it...
-Christopher
I figured I would put plywood around it (instead of foam) and caulk that, then reuse the original sheet metal and more plywood for an access panel door.

I guess what I don't know is how to trim out the door? Mine is centerline so it will be in the middle no matter what I do. Should I accent the door with transition pieces or just try to hide the edges? Will probably be using like Pergo or vinyl tiles for flooring...
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Old 08-14-2018, 01:57 PM   #106
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When I converted my first bus (40' RE) I asked folks if it was ok to cover up the access panels that covered the (mechanical) throttle linkage that ran down the center isle. "Go ahead. You'll never need it"..... So I covered it.

Three years later when the throttle linkage BADLY needed lubrication I was faced with a choice of tearing up the floor, including ceramic tile, or install an air throttle.

I installed the air throttle. Cost me over $600 by the time I was done.

I am now a little more cautious as to what I cover up.

Before you cover it up consider how you will deal with it later if you need access.
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Old 08-14-2018, 02:28 PM   #107
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Remember there was no access to that plate from the factory. It would require seat removal and tearing up the floor to get at it.
Murphy hanging around Tango?
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Old 08-14-2018, 02:33 PM   #108
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Remember there was no access to that plate from the factory. It would require seat removal and tearing up the floor to get at it.
Murphy hanging around Tango?
All three of mine have had access covers.

I guess if yours did not then you may not worry about it.

I tend to try to err on the side of caution.
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Old 08-14-2018, 02:38 PM   #109
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All three of mine have had access covers.

I guess if yours did not then you may not worry about it.

I tend to try to err on the side of caution.
Mine has the access cover, but none of us would have ever known it was there had we not ripped the floor out.
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Old 08-14-2018, 03:03 PM   #110
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Mine has the access cover, but none of us would have ever known it was there had we not ripped the floor out.
Mine have all been on top of the flooring.
You're saying yours is UNDER the flooring??
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Old 08-14-2018, 03:15 PM   #111
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Mine have all been on top of the flooring.
You're saying yours is UNDER the flooring??
Yes
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Old 08-14-2018, 05:31 PM   #112
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all 3 of my busses have that plate on top of the bus flooring... even the ole 1978..
-Christopher
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Old 08-14-2018, 05:39 PM   #113
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In my 2000 Bluebird it was under the rubber, but definitely on top if you knew where to look and what screws to remove.
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Old 08-14-2018, 07:10 PM   #114
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Mine came with a screwed down plate to access the tank. I kept it.
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Old 08-14-2018, 07:53 PM   #115
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Yes
That's odd. Mine was a "genesis".
Why would they bury the access panel?

I can say I've never heard of that or seen it.
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Old 08-14-2018, 08:42 PM   #116
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Ok, this will make you guys happy. I concede to you all. I was not actually there when that mat and plywood came up. When I saw it, it was screwed down to the floor. So common sense says the kid removed it from the top and the did the right thing in screwing it back in place. It does make sense that's it's on top. Didn't think twice when I saw it screwed to the metal floor.
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Old 08-14-2018, 08:44 PM   #117
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Now can we get a mod to delete this whole page of nonsense thread jack?
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Old 08-14-2018, 09:14 PM   #118
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Oh crap, I'm a thread jack master at this point. Pls carry on with your build thread, my friend!!
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Old 08-15-2018, 04:22 AM   #119
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Now can we get a mod to delete this whole page of nonsense thread jack?
Have you ever seen that happen in the months you've been here?
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Old 08-15-2018, 02:53 PM   #120
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I am almost to the point of filling holes in my floor and was leaning towards the seam sealer because I have been in and around the body shop business. Was wondering if anybody has ever used the Flexseal stuff on TV, they have it in spray cans, gallons, cut to fit patches, and tape. Anybody use this stuff? Any thoughts on it? Any results if you did use it?
I used seam sealer Dynatron 550 on the sides of the floor to seal where it meets the wall. It is good stuff. I did not use it on the floor holes as I did mine before I worked with the seam sealer. I think its good stuff and would be great for the floor holes provided it can cover the gap of the big seat holes. I have some pictures in the thread of the Henrys Tropicool 100% silicone caulk. I used this for the last few holes when I ran out of the other stuff I used. I am impressed with that as well. I know there have been issues brought up about using silicone but my floor was already primed before I filled the holes so no metal contact. The Tropicool caulk worked great.
If I had it to do over I would use the Dynatron 550 seam sealer or the Tropicool Caulk.

I had a buddy that used flexseal on EVERYTHING once he discovered it. It is a cool coating product, but I found that it did not really hold up in any application that had any friction applied (eg scraping, rubbing, etc). It seems like it peels up easily so I probably would not use it for any of the applications we are discussing.

Hope that helps.
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