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Old 08-15-2018, 02:56 PM   #121
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
Yep.
Here's another- If you put it in a bag and refrigerate it, you can store partially used tubes for a while.
Lay it out in the sun for a bit and its good as new.
Nice, just bought another tube to tackle my fuel filler cover area. Might have left over so in the fridge it goes.
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Old 08-15-2018, 03:06 PM   #122
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Hey there what's your plan with that access panel over the gas tank? I'm at about the same phase as you. And I pulled that thing up and am perplexed as to what to do with it.

Did you just leave the plywood down and then insulate around it? What about when it comes time for floor covering? Cut around it?
I am at the point of doing something about that access panel right now. My original plan:
I left the original wood that framed my access panel in place.
I was going to foam and wood up to that wood then drop in the metal plate back on top.
Problem is my materials are a bit different size. My foam is 1/2" and sub 5/8" so the foam does not come up flush to the old wood frame.
For flooring I am planning on vinyl sheet to give a nice monolithic waterproof floor. I would either cover the hatch with the flooring (marks from the screws and hatch would telegraph through the vinyl so I can always see where it is) or cut out a piece and glue separately to the hatch cover.

I have some ideas. I am going to try to tackle it tomorrow on my stream. I will also post what I figure out (or dont figure out). I will absolutely leave some type of access.
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Old 08-15-2018, 03:33 PM   #123
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you can simply adjust the height of the cover with longer screws or bolts that have each a spacer/hollow sleeve to give you the best measurement for flush fitting.
Sometimes you need your hands in there too just to get at the fuel lines if they need replacing for any reason. A frustrating place to have to do that but it beats dropping the tank unnecessarily.


John
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Old 08-15-2018, 04:56 PM   #124
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Awesome info fadderall! And yes it definitely helps. Real world experience trumps all the literature and speculation any day!
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Old 08-19-2018, 02:44 PM   #125
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Update on the bolt holes I filled with Henrys Wet Patch and Tropicool Caulk. I was under the bus today with a can of undercoating hitting the new screws I put in the sub floor. I came across some of the old holes I sealed with the wet patch and the caulk. From the bottom I am happy with the outcome of both. Looks like either is doing the job. However, I still recomend staying away from the wet patch. I would use the tropicool caulk or the dynatron 550 seam sealer and tape. I did a couple holes in the front with the seam sealer today and it worked great. Put some pictures up on the floor prep thread here
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f10/fl...-17722-24.html

This is the Henrys Wet Patch as seen from under the bus


This is the Henry Tropicool Caulk as seen from under the bus
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Old 08-21-2018, 07:52 AM   #126
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Hey there fadderall,

Just wanted to say you guys are kicking butt over there in vegas, your build seems to be progressing really quickly! Very inspiring.

Hey I was looking at the AAA website and looking at some other buses that had the same engine/trans combo that you have and I'm just wondering, how many miles were on the one that you bought? And what is the average life expectancy of the cummins 8.3L engine, if you happen to know?

Thanks so much

-p
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Old 08-23-2018, 04:10 AM   #127
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Originally Posted by pyrotica View Post
Hey there fadderall,

Just wanted to say you guys are kicking butt over there in vegas, your build seems to be progressing really quickly! Very inspiring.

Hey I was looking at the AAA website and looking at some other buses that had the same engine/trans combo that you have and I'm just wondering, how many miles were on the one that you bought? And what is the average life expectancy of the cummins 8.3L engine, if you happen to know?

Thanks so much

-p
Thanks for the encouragement. AAA is a good group. Mine had around 200,000 miles on it, but I think the motor has been rebuilt at some point. I do not know what the average life expectancy of the 8.3 Cummins engine is, but I have seen people say anywhere from 250k to 350k or more. It seems that the most recommended motors are the DT466 and the 8.3L Cummins in the big buses.
Good luck in your search. Let me know if I can help.
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Old 08-23-2018, 04:52 PM   #128
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Fuel Tank Filler Cover remove and replace.
Getting around to posting some updates. Got the fuel tank filler squared away and installed. I used the old metal rim and new plywood to mount too. In retrospect I should have used 1/2" ply to match my 1/2" XPS insulation but I only had 5/8 ply. Came out nice with auto weather stripping.
It will all be covered by some kind of cabinet/sofa/bunk so I think it came out nice. I insulated it as well.
Materials
Liquid Nails heavy duty (Depot)
GRK screws (Depot)
Universal weather striping (Autozone)
5/8" plywood (piece of my subfloor stock)

NOTE: The screws I used are GRK and supposed to be self taping and metal rated but I broke a couple so pilot drilled these holes.

FUel filler materials


Screw down wood to metal floor


Liquid nails on the metal frame


XPS Insulation covered with undercoating


Weather striping holds screws for alignment


weather striping compresses nicely


Good as new but better!!
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Old 08-28-2018, 07:25 AM   #129
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Ceiling insulation system
I almost pulled the trigger on spray foam but I went another route for a few reasons.
1. Foam expensive and messy and I am not that neat.
2. Multiple layers loosely based on metal building insulation.
3. Sound insulation
4. Fire retarding
5. Setup for the plastic fantastic ceiling
6. I like to make things more complicated then they need to be.

The setup is
1. Air Gap - achieved with 1/4" bender board concrete form material ripped to a couple inches wide glued to the metal roof with power grab PL VERY GOOD STUFF.
2. RTECH foam 1/2" with RAD barrier side toward roof. ALL edges of insulation sealed with aluminum tape to keep air out of the air gap space.
3. Rockwool insulation thermal, sound and fire block. 2" split on custom made band saw reciprocating saw hybrid bat insulation slicer.
4. RTECH foam 1/2" with RAD barrier side toward inside
5. Lexan roof panels 1/4" standoff

The bays will have LED light strips pointed inward to illuminate the cavity and bounce off the RAD barrier illuminating the plastic ceiling panels.
That was original plan. In looking into plexi, FRP, polycarb and such it just looks too expensive to pull off and too expensive to experiment with.

New plan. Steps 1, 2, 3 same. Next is wood panel, finish grade surface, stained. I have 4-5 bays that are wider than the others. In those bays and only in the top center bay, I will inlay a piece of plastic material in the wood panel and do the LED light strips in that area. So in the end I hope to have a nice modern wood panel with flush LED light boxes.

In my head my inspiration for the ceiling panel is an overturned eames chair. The bent plywood forms of mid-century modern design.

I would like a reveal between ceiling panels. Maybe 1/2"? It should be black. What is a good material that is thin and can be used for under the reveal or as a base under all the panels?

We will see how this plan develops. Other than "tear it all down and do spray foam", any thoughts? Tips? Advice?

Going Live Now twitch.tv/fadderall wish me luck.

Spacers for air gap glued to metal roof. I pulled down a piece of insulation to show this


Insulation glued up to spacers and taped with aluminum tape


Rockwool insulation split to size to fill the bays


First layer installed and mostly taped


PL Power Grab Extreme. This stuff is great. Glued the strips to the ceiling no clamps no holding necessary. Used on RTECH foam board too. Very good tack right away.
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Old 08-28-2018, 02:40 PM   #130
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So why the air gap? Why not directly on the metal? I'd it for moisture?
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Old 08-28-2018, 03:36 PM   #131
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So why the air gap? Why not directly on the metal? I'd it for moisture?
A radiant barrier needs an air gap in order to work. The metal skin heats up and that heat radiates into the bus across the air gap. The reflective material then bounces a lot of that heat back to the roof skin preventing it from getting to the insulation. If the reflective radiant barrier is touching the metal skin then it becomes thermally conductive. So, instead of radiating the heat the metal roof skin conducts to the reflective material nullifying the barrier effect.
Since I used the spacers to get the gap its not a true air gap and its effectiveness is lessened. But, I figure its worth a shot. The tape that is sealing the edges is to prevent interior air from getting up into the gap and condensing creating moisture. That's the theory anyways, we will see if it works.
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Old 09-01-2018, 02:56 PM   #132
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PNW Steve, guess this answers my question about if one of those dent pullers would work. I have dents on roof and one on each corner (only one made by me). Guess I will have to live with them as the ones in back are in the double walled section. Sure was easy to make the one dent and fear it won't be my last.
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Old 09-15-2018, 10:37 AM   #133
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UPDATE- PLASTIC FANTASTIC CEILING BUMBLING IT UP RIGHT.

Its been a minute and thought I should update the progress for those that care. A lot has been happening between building a bus and streaming it live. Today Im going to talk about the ceiling of my bus. I have dubbed it the "Plastic Fantastic". I had this vision of a plastic translucent ceiling gently illuminated from behind so that the whole bus roof kind of glows giving it a nice open airy feeling. Of course with acrylic, some theromoforming machines, talent at plastic fab (I have none) and a hefty budget, I could do this the "right way". But, at about $200+ a sheet of acrylic (need 13) on budget alone its a no go. So, I activated full bumble life powers and bumbled my way into a system that I think will work.
CROSS SECTION OF PLASTIC FANTASTIC CEILING


This is the basic sandwich.
1. Roof metal skin
2. 1/4" furring strips (concrete form bender board) glued to metal skin for air gap. Glued with PL power grab.
3. RTECH 1/2" foam glued up to boards with radiant barrier side toward metal 1/4" strips providing radiant barrier air gap.
4. Aluminum tape covering every seam between foam boars and ribs.
5. Rockwool thermal, fire and sound insulation bats. 2" bats split in half with my custom modified reciprocating saw. I cut a bandsaw blad in half, used a recip blade as a template and made it fit my saw. Laid it flat on a 4x8 sheet and spaced it with 2x4 with a spring on the other end of the blade for tension.
6. Smurf Tube blue 3/4" electrical conduit glued to every other rib with Power Grab and fitted with pull string for future install
7. Aluminum 3/4"x1"x3/4" C channel screwed into the ribs at the top point where the metal side trim used to attach and hold the old metal ceiling. A 1/2" C channel is glued to the back of the main channel to support the 2.7mm plywood from puckering into the open bay.
8. 2.7mm wood is cut to size to provide a tension fit that is finished with screws into the metal ribs. I know condensation but I didnt want to put any wood in the ceiling. I put strips of foam along the ribs under the plywood. The 2.7mm plywood rests on the back edge of the 3/4x1 C channel and is supported by the 1/2" glued to the back with E6000 (amazing glue). Wood will be painted reflective white.
9. LED 16' RGB+W tape lights go in the 3/4"x1"x3/4" C channel pointing up at wood.
10. Acrylic spacers cut and glued to wood at key intervals along the ribs to support the final ceiling material and maintain an equal air gap between wood and plastic.
11. Coroplast plastic cardboard mounted in channel in front of LED's (possibly second channel in front) and then affixed to spacers to create a solid diffuse lens for the lights.
DOES ANYONE KNOW ANOTHER CHEAP MATERIAL I COULD USE INSTEAD OF COROPLAST? SOMETHING WHITE TRANSLUCENT THAT MIGHT HAVE MORE STRUCTURAL RIGIDITY? IM ALL EARS.

Well thats the plan. So far we have gotten to putting the wood up phase and all is going outstanding. Had a slight mishap.
I needed a way to hold the rockwool in the ceiling while putting up the wood. POwer grab / liquid nails didnt work. Tape across the ribs didnt work. But wow 3m spray adhesive worked very well. The original thought was to do one bay insulation then immediately put up the wood. But, the 3m worked so well I just powered through and insulated the whole ceiling. Tired and full of glue and hairy rock filaments, I called it a day to do the wood the next. Well, in the morning wouldnt you know 80% of the rockwool came down! Oh well live a learn.

The plywood sheets are from Home Depot and they call it 2.7mm plywood underlayment. It bends real easy and is nice enough to be a finished sealing if stained or even painted. Its also only about $10 a sheet. It is hard to rip on a table saw because of how thin it is. It really likes to bend and warp so that it is hard to keep it flat while feeding into the saw. I overcame this with a roller skate, bungie cords and some clamps. Again, DONT TRY ANY OF THIS AT HOME. THIS IS WHAT I DO AT MY HOUSE, YOU DO WHAT YOU WANT AT YOUR HOME.

Now, I gotta figure a way to put a junction box on the roof and a conduit for solar and any other roof mount electronics so I can finish the inside ceiling.

PICTURES YAY.
SMURF TUBE 3/4" CONDUIT ON RIBS


ELECTRICAL CONDUIT BEHIND CUSTOM ALUMINUM CEILING RAIL. I HAVE SINCE PUT FOAM BETWEEN RAIL AND RIB


CUSTOM ALUMINUM RAIL DETAIL. YOU CAN SEE THE EDGE THAT THE WOOD SITS ON CREATED BY THE C CHANNEL AND THE PIECE GLUED TO THE BACK IN BETWEEN RIBS. LIGHTS GO DOWN IN THE CHANNEL


ROCKWOOL INSULATION BLANKET NICE AND SNUG. IN TOP LEFT CORNER YOU CAN SEE THE FOAM THAT COVERS THE RIBS PEEKING OUT UNDER THE PLYWOOD


THE MORNING AFTER COMPLETE DISASTER


PERSEVERANCE PAYS OFF. WOOD UP BY COMPRESSION ONLY. THE GAPS WILL GO AWAY ONCE SCREWED UP TO RIBS. THE ACTUAL SPACING BETWEEN BOARDS IS PERFECT ABOUT 1/8" FOR EXPANSION.


CUT EACH SHEET TO RIB SPACING. ROLLER SKATE TABLE SAW INFEED WHEEL

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Old 09-15-2018, 02:35 PM   #134
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I overcame this with a roller skate, bungie cords and some clamps.
CUT EACH SHEET TO RIB SPACING. ROLLER SKATE TABLE SAW INFEED WHEEL

Kudos for ingenuity. MacGyver has nothing on you.
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Old 09-18-2018, 07:05 AM   #135
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Wood is up and ready to start plastic......I think. Going to screw the wood to the ribs today and try out a new version of the plastic fantastic roof design called the "Rib Runner". Im going to cut strips from a 4x8 sheet of 3/8 acrylic then glue/tape those strips to the coroplast and use them for supports as I bend around the roof radius. Hopefully it all goes well. Doing it live today twitch.tv/fadderall

NEW Rib Runner design implementation of the plastic fantastic ceiling
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Old 01-18-2020, 12:49 AM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fadderall View Post
Wood is up and ready to start plastic......I think. Going to screw the wood to the ribs today and try out a new version of the plastic fantastic roof design called the "Rib Runner". Im going to cut strips from a 4x8 sheet of 3/8 acrylic then glue/tape those strips to the coroplast and use them for supports as I bend around the roof radius. Hopefully it all goes well. Doing it live today twitch.tv/fadderall

NEW Rib Runner design implementation of the plastic fantastic ceiling

where did he go? finished?
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Old 02-10-2020, 09:43 AM   #137
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Really enjoyed reading through your thread, I have a 98 TC2000 FE (5.9, I bought before I really knew what I was doing but here we are) that's the same length.
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