Fear Fair Prison Party Bus - Page 3

chev49 · 05-07-2012, 08:13 AM

probably rides better than a hummer... esp the old ones...

bhays · 05-07-2012, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chev49

probably rides better than a hummer... esp the old ones...

Pretty close to the same... lol.. I need to find a way to add some weight to the rear end.

bhays · 05-09-2012, 11:15 PM

Ok, I need some advice. I have a pair of Grover 1510 air horns that I want to install this weekend.

The bus is a 1993 Amtran Genesis. It has air operated door and seats, so I am assuming it has a system to prevent these air driven accessories from depleting the air brake system.

Where should I try to tap in for air to the horns? Where should the accessory tank be located. I can follow the air line from the compressor through the dryer to the large tank mounted about half way back to the frame rail which then runs out to the wheels, but so far I am not seeing the accessory tank. Where would this normally be located?

I would like to tie in as close to the accessory tank as I can and then run 1/2" line up to the horns. I am hoping to mount them on the roof for appearance, but I have to figure out how to get the air line up there and hide the solenoid inside the ceiling...

chev49 · 05-10-2012, 10:30 AM

the thomas busses have air drain valves located on the passenger side behind the front wheel. a small door opens and drain valves are labled. maybe yours are labled as well. there are 4 drain valves for my tanks... accessory tank is probably located near the front of the bus. it doesnt matter much how long your hose run is to the air horn.
another thing to do is to put a air quick coupler at the tank end, so you can use your bus air for tire changes, painting and the like.

roach711 · 05-10-2012, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chev49

the thomas busses have air drain valves located on the passenger side behind the front wheel. a small door opens and drain valves are labled. maybe yours are labled as well. there are 4 drain valves for my tanks... accessory tank is probably located near the front of the bus. it doesnt matter much how long your hose run is to the air horn.
another thing to do is to put a air quick coupler at the tank end, so you can use your bus air for tire changes, painting and the like.

A 72 passenger air compressor!

bhays · 05-10-2012, 01:41 PM

I just wanted to be sure I tied into the accessory side of the system rather than the brake side.

bhays · 05-14-2012, 08:53 AM

Got the horns installed over the weekend and they work great. Turns out the reason I couldn't find the accessory tank is that it is combined with the primary tank about halfway back on the frame rail. The tank has three petcocks on the bottom spaced evenly. Apparently the tank has two chambers, 2/3 of the tank is for the brakes and the other 1/3 is accessory. Once there is 85psi in the main section, the accessory section fills.. I just unscrewed the blowoff valve from a 1/2 port on top of the tank and used a 1/2" pipe tee to put the blowoff valve back and install a push fit connector for air line running to the horns.

bhays · 06-12-2012, 12:11 AM

The heat and noise on our first real road trip was horrible, so I decided it was time to tackle this project.

First I cleared out all of the rotten insulation, weather strip, etc. down to just the bare cover

First layer in was Dynamat...

On top of the Dynamat I put back the factory inner rubber line... this is about an 1/8" thick layer of soft rubber... it was in decent shape so I put it back in.

On top of the rubber liner I glued in foil covered bubble wrap type duct insulation... this should hold in heat as well as sound.

The final layer on the inside of the cover is a foam covered heat/sound deadening carpet.. about 1/2" thick.. then I sealed all the seams with foil tape.. around 2" of total material on the inside of the cover now

Finally, I did the outside of the cover with Herculiner bed liner.. I thought it would look good as well as provide a little more sound deadening. I still have to install the new pinch molding strips and replace two of the latches that were broken. Hopefully all of this will make a difference... we shall see.

Diesel Dan · 06-12-2012, 02:08 PM

Looks great! Surely it will help. I need to do something similar with mine. How well does it seal to the floor? I've noticed that I can feel hot air blowing on my ankles that is coming from the bottom where it meets the floor. I plan to put down some sort of weather stripping to seal this gap.

bansil · 06-12-2012, 02:13 PM

yes please post the results

bhays · 06-12-2012, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel Dan

How well does it seal to the floor?

Honestly, not worth a crap. I am replacing all of that weather stripping. Luckily it's just the standard pinch molding all of the auto parts places carry. The front two clips are bad too and I am replacing those, so I hope to get a much better seal. I will report back with my results.

ol trunt · 06-12-2012, 08:25 PM

I've played with that too and what you did will make an improvement. The only shortfall I encountered was that the glue I used didn't like the heat and let go. I eventually used some rivit like things I found in a junk aircraft parts place--that solved the problem.

bhays · 06-12-2012, 11:10 PM

I got it installed tonight with the two new latches on the front and the new weatherstrip. I think it looks much better and it sounds much quieter in the driveway... I will try to go out for a test driver tomorrow night and get it warm enough for the high fan to kick on... that will tell the tale.

GreyEagle · 06-13-2012, 07:50 AM

Looks good, now you need to do the floorboard and firewall....... I think that would help some too!
Just my 2 cents........ for what it's worth......

bhays · 06-13-2012, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GreyEagle

Looks good, now you need to do the floorboard and firewall....... I think that would help some too!
Just my 2 cents........ for what it's worth......

Yeah, I know. Not really looking forward to that job, but pretty much resigned myself to the same

bhays · 06-13-2012, 09:15 PM

Decided if a job's worth doing, it's worth doing right. So all exposed metal from the rear of the engine cover forward is going to get a couple layers of peel & seal (to save money over Dynamat) and then Herculiner just like the engine cover. It should help with looks, plus sound and heat infiltration into the cockpit. It would have been nice to put the peel & seal on the underside and just the bedliner on top, but with the rust, etc. it would take many hours to work to make a surface that it would adhere to.

bhays · 06-15-2012, 08:49 PM

More progress on sound deadener. Just the drivers footwell area and a few second layers in the morning then it's on to Herculiner over all of it.

bansil · 06-16-2012, 03:27 AM

Not sure if your FE is like mine(mine is noisey so I will be doing similar) I have a 3" hole in the top nearwhere that black circle is.
I thought it was a vent for defrost....nope mine is just a hole straight into engine compartment...WTF

So a lot of noise comes thru there.
What sucks is going to be sealing it all but making it so it can all unbolt and be removed for major repairs if needed later

bhays · 06-16-2012, 06:31 PM

What a hot, sweaty, sticky, nasty job! But it's done. I didn't get the Herculiner on my dookus, but I did get some in my hair. Thank goodness for Goof Off.

ol trunt · 06-16-2012, 07:45 PM

Nice job--it should be real quiet now. Do you know if herculon is paintable?

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