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06-05-2021, 02:02 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 36
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Framing bathroom
Ok guys and gals
I am framing the bathroom walls and the ceiling is bowed what the f..k. just kidding how did you tackle this my thoughts are to make firing straps till its all straight across and level....anyone have a better solution?
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06-05-2021, 03:50 PM
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#2
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Grayson County, VA
Posts: 1,428
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
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We left a 1" or so gap between the ceiling and the walls, but basically followed the contour of the ceiling. We used a small pipe flange and a pipe to attach the inside end of the wall to the ceiling. The gap didn't cause any problems for us and we lived in it for 2 years. It didn't let out any stank (the Nature's Head toilet is vented outside) and noise wasn't an issue. It allowed some of the moisture to escape while showering I guess.
You can scribe/transfer the curve of the ceiling onto the wall boards using a compass. I could see using furring strips to attach plywood walls to, that should make a solid connection.
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06-05-2021, 11:05 PM
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#3
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Fraser Valley British Columbia
Posts: 1,043
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: C7 Cat
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When framing my top plates I used a pvc composite wood from Lowes. So basically plastic wood. The trick to get the bend was to soften it similar to steam bending wood planking for boats. Take an 8' piece of larger pipe and cap an end then fill with hot water and let the board soften in there before trying to force the curve.
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06-05-2021, 11:20 PM
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#4
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 638
Year: 2009
Coachwork: Gillig
Chassis: G27E102
Engine: Cummins ISL 280
Rated Cap: 26,000 lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oscar1
... used a pvc composite wood from .... Take an 8' piece of larger pipe and cap an end then fill with hot water and let the board soften in there before trying to force the curve.
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That’s a great idea, I didn’t know they responded that well to heat!!
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06-05-2021, 11:46 PM
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#5
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Fraser Valley British Columbia
Posts: 1,043
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: C7 Cat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bert06840
That’s a great idea, I didn’t know they responded that well to heat!!
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Thanks
Nor did I untill I thought what the hell let's see what happens
Used the 1x2 pvc and put all the 2x3 studs on edge for a thinner wall.
Did the garage wall top plate in two separate pieces so that I could tap the 1x2 down in to my bracing.
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06-06-2021, 11:01 AM
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#6
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 638
Year: 2009
Coachwork: Gillig
Chassis: G27E102
Engine: Cummins ISL 280
Rated Cap: 26,000 lbs
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I saw another interesting thing… those bed lift hinges, where do you get those from?
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06-06-2021, 11:25 AM
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#7
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Fraser Valley British Columbia
Posts: 1,043
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: C7 Cat
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Good eye Bert.
The lift bed was a complete package from Ikea, it includes a slated platform for good airflow that should help the mattress breath better and prevent a musty smell or mould. The extra advantage was no bottom on the the bed allowed for extra depth on the platform for more storage and water tank fit.
Cheers
Oscar
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06-06-2021, 01:10 PM
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#8
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 638
Year: 2009
Coachwork: Gillig
Chassis: G27E102
Engine: Cummins ISL 280
Rated Cap: 26,000 lbs
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I see. Might you be able to take a heads-on picture of that mechanism, so I could copy it? Thanks!!
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06-06-2021, 01:32 PM
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#9
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Fraser Valley British Columbia
Posts: 1,043
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: C7 Cat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bert06840
I see. Might you be able to take a heads-on picture of that mechanism, so I could copy it? Thanks!!
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Absolutely will do that! Bed is covered in materials right now but will get it cleared off and get a shot for you soon.
Cheers
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06-06-2021, 01:43 PM
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#10
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 638
Year: 2009
Coachwork: Gillig
Chassis: G27E102
Engine: Cummins ISL 280
Rated Cap: 26,000 lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oscar1
Absolutely will do that! Bed is covered in materials right now but will get it cleared off and get a shot for you soon.
Cheers
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No rush! I will be buried in pants-on-fire stuff for the next three weeks anyway
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06-06-2021, 01:55 PM
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#11
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Fraser Valley British Columbia
Posts: 1,043
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: C7 Cat
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Just checked the ikea website and it looks like no hardware kit for that bed. However I did find this on Amazon and it looks like many styles availabile.
I'll still get you some pics, maybe you can build something.
Cheers
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06-06-2021, 08:11 PM
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#12
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 638
Year: 2009
Coachwork: Gillig
Chassis: G27E102
Engine: Cummins ISL 280
Rated Cap: 26,000 lbs
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Well.. sometimes you don’t have to design something, because someone already did it for you…
Thanks, I’d never heard of a bed lift mechanism before…
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06-13-2021, 04:31 PM
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#13
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Almost There
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Arkansas Ozark Foothills
Posts: 82
Year: 2002
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000-8 Window
Engine: Cumm ISB/Allison 2000
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Not sure if it fits your mode of thinking, but could you use hinges from an automobile hood to lift the bed and keep it up? Some models had springs to keep the hood up.
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06-13-2021, 04:37 PM
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#14
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 2,831
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: Minotour
Engine: Chevy Express 3500 6.6l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jofred99
Not sure if it fits your mode of thinking, but could you use hinges from an automobile hood to lift the bed and keep it up? Some models had springs to keep the hood up.
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Fleetwood uses hydraulic lifters, but the bed and platform are really light, just foam rubber and some particle board. Quality!!!
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06-13-2021, 07:13 PM
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#15
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,362
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown, integral. (With 2kW of tiltable solar)
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
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Why does everyone want to frame their interior divider walls like a house's? It seems a big waste of space to make walls several inches thick, instead of using a single sheet of 1/2" or 5/8" plywood. I've made all my divider walls, three on each side, this way, and have saved about 5" compared to framing them with 2" x 4" studs with their narrow sides between 1/2" plywood. Every inch saved, or even a fraction of an inch, is worth it to help create, or at least fool the eyes into seeing, a sense of spaciousness in a 7'6"-wide interior space. My 3/4"-thick walls are plenty stiff and lightweight, and they don't resonate while driving. They are all secured by 3/4"-wide aluminum channel screwed to the floor and side walls and riveted to the ceiling, and they look clean and professional with no gaps between walls and ceiling. I use Celtec board glued onto the plywood for a no-paint wipe-clean surface, and my pale grey Celtec nicely complements the silver aluminum channel and end capping for a very simple and modern look.
John
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06-13-2021, 08:14 PM
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#16
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Central Tx.
Posts: 1,990
Year: 1999
Chassis: Amtran / International
Engine: DT466E HT 250HP - Md3060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oscar1
Just checked the ikea website and it looks like no hardware kit for that bed. However I did find this on Amazon and it looks like many styles availabile. Attachment 58185
I'll still get you some pics, maybe you can build something.
Cheers
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Here is another source for bed lift kits
https://platformbedliftkit.com/
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