Framing bathroom

[Chopperpilot]

Ok guys and gals
I am framing the bathroom walls and the ceiling is bowed what the f..k. just kidding how did you tackle this my thoughts are to make firing straps till its all straight across and level....anyone have a better solution?

[Drew Bru]

We left a 1" or so gap between the ceiling and the walls, but basically followed the contour of the ceiling. We used a small pipe flange and a pipe to attach the inside end of the wall to the ceiling. The gap didn't cause any problems for us and we lived in it for 2 years. It didn't let out any stank (the Nature's Head toilet is vented outside) and noise wasn't an issue. It allowed some of the moisture to escape while showering I guess.
You can scribe/transfer the curve of the ceiling onto the wall boards using a compass. I could see using furring strips to attach plywood walls to, that should make a solid connection.

[Oscar1]

When framing my top plates I used a pvc composite wood from Lowes. So basically plastic wood. The trick to get the bend was to soften it similar to steam bending wood planking for boats. Take an 8' piece of larger pipe and cap an end then fill with hot water and let the board soften in there before trying to force the curve.

[Bert06840]

Originally Posted by Oscar1

... used a pvc composite wood from .... Take an 8' piece of larger pipe and cap an end then fill with hot water and let the board soften in there before trying to force the curve.

That’s a great idea, I didn’t know they responded that well to heat!!

[Oscar1]

Originally Posted by Bert06840

That’s a great idea, I didn’t know they responded that well to heat!!

Thanks
Nor did I untill I thought what the hell let's see what happens
Used the 1x2 pvc and put all the 2x3 studs on edge for a thinner wall.

Did the garage wall top plate in two separate pieces so that I could tap the 1x2 down in to my bracing.

[Bert06840]

I saw another interesting thing… those bed lift hinges, where do you get those from?

[Oscar1]

Good eye Bert.
The lift bed was a complete package from Ikea, it includes a slated platform for good airflow that should help the mattress breath better and prevent a musty smell or mould. The extra advantage was no bottom on the the bed allowed for extra depth on the platform for more storage and water tank fit.
Cheers

Oscar

[Bert06840]

I see. Might you be able to take a heads-on picture of that mechanism, so I could copy it? Thanks!!

[Oscar1]

Originally Posted by Bert06840

I see. Might you be able to take a heads-on picture of that mechanism, so I could copy it? Thanks!!

Absolutely will do that! Bed is covered in materials right now but will get it cleared off and get a shot for you soon.
Cheers

[Bert06840]

Originally Posted by Oscar1

Absolutely will do that! Bed is covered in materials right now but will get it cleared off and get a shot for you soon.
Cheers

No rush! I will be buried in pants-on-fire stuff for the next three weeks anyway

[Oscar1]

Just checked the ikea website and it looks like no hardware kit for that bed. However I did find this on Amazon and it looks like many styles availabile.
I'll still get you some pics, maybe you can build something.
Cheers

[Bert06840]

Well.. sometimes you don’t have to design something, because someone already did it for you…

Thanks, I’d never heard of a bed lift mechanism before…

[jofred99]

Not sure if it fits your mode of thinking, but could you use hinges from an automobile hood to lift the bed and keep it up? Some models had springs to keep the hood up.

[Danjo]

Originally Posted by jofred99

Not sure if it fits your mode of thinking, but could you use hinges from an automobile hood to lift the bed and keep it up? Some models had springs to keep the hood up.

Fleetwood uses hydraulic lifters, but the bed and platform are really light, just foam rubber and some particle board. Quality!!!

[Iceni John]

Why does everyone want to frame their interior divider walls like a house's? It seems a big waste of space to make walls several inches thick, instead of using a single sheet of 1/2" or 5/8" plywood. I've made all my divider walls, three on each side, this way, and have saved about 5" compared to framing them with 2" x 4" studs with their narrow sides between 1/2" plywood. Every inch saved, or even a fraction of an inch, is worth it to help create, or at least fool the eyes into seeing, a sense of spaciousness in a 7'6"-wide interior space. My 3/4"-thick walls are plenty stiff and lightweight, and they don't resonate while driving. They are all secured by 3/4"-wide aluminum channel screwed to the floor and side walls and riveted to the ceiling, and they look clean and professional with no gaps between walls and ceiling. I use Celtec board glued onto the plywood for a no-paint wipe-clean surface, and my pale grey Celtec nicely complements the silver aluminum channel and end capping for a very simple and modern look.

John

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by Oscar1

Just checked the ikea website and it looks like no hardware kit for that bed. However I did find this on Amazon and it looks like many styles availabile. Attachment 58185
I'll still get you some pics, maybe you can build something.
Cheers

Here is another source for bed lift kits

https://platformbedliftkit.com/