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02-19-2018, 07:47 PM
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#1
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New Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 5
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Freedom (1993 International)
Hey everybody!
Just bought a bus a couple weeks ago and finally got around to getting some work done on it. I thought I better start a log before it gets late in the project, and introduce myself to the Skoolie community!
It's a diesel with a DT360 and AT545 4 speed automatic. I've never owned a diesel, so this is very exciting! I learned (through skoolie.net) that it does not have glow plugs. It does have a heater hookup in the front bumper, & after some reading I feel confident about how and when to use it! So cool! I love my new bus!
I have until the end of March to work on it here before I have to move it, with all of my belongings in it, to a new destination to soon thereafter (hopefully) continue the project. \
Today was the first day I did any work on it. I tried to take out the bolts to the seats yesterday and could not get a single bolt out. The nuts were just too rusted to the bolts and without someone under the bus to hold a wrench for me I was unable to get any real leverage. Today I decided to grind the bolt heads all off, and it only took me about 4 hours and 3 grinding discs. Not a bad job at all, and so gratifying!
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02-19-2018, 08:08 PM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Welcome! You will do fine. Having discovered the easiest way to deal with seat bolts on your own...you are way ahead of the game!
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02-19-2018, 08:15 PM
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#3
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
Posts: 1,494
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E 7.3L
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Welcome to the site. Looking forward to your build.
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02-19-2018, 08:19 PM
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#4
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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That's a very centennial looking bus.
Sometimes you can pry the bolts and they'll break too. I think you're done with that by now though.
So what's next? On to floor removal or ceiling and
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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02-19-2018, 08:37 PM
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#5
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 102
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner ER
Engine: Cummins ISC 8.3 Allison MD3060
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Welcome to the forums!! Love the colors the previous owner choose for the outside.
James
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02-20-2018, 02:09 AM
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#6
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Winlcok, WA
Posts: 2,233
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You have a pretty nice looking bus.
The fact it has the green floor tells me that whoever purchased it originally wanted a bus with more than the standard state spe'c bus. You will probably find that there are other extra cost options that will make your bus nicer for your purposes.
If your floor isn't soft I wouldn't bother pulling it up. Under the green linoleum should be at least 5/8" marine grade plywood and it might have 3/4" marine grade plywood.
Later when you have more time you might want to pull it up but short term all you really need to do is stop up all of the holes where the seat bolts went through the floor. I have found clear silicone sealer is a fast and easy short term hole stopper.
The DT360 is a workhorse that if it is treated properly it will go and go and go and go! Just don't get it hot and make sure you keep the coolant pH as neutral as possible. If your bus doesn't have a coolant filter with an additive package go to NAPA and get a coolant additive. One of the important things the SCA additive does is to reduce cavitation which will eat through a cylinder liner faster than fast if it is allowed to continue for very long.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PARHD20016
Good luck and happy trails to you!
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02-20-2018, 04:01 AM
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#7
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 973
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02-20-2018, 08:33 PM
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#8
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New Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 5
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Thanks all! That's the supportive tone I need to get this thing done!
I tackled the interior paneling today. I took off HUNDREDS & HUNDREDS of T-20 torx bolts. Those ceiling panels were heavy, too! So glad I got all that fiberglass out, 'cause there was some trapped dripping moisture in the walls AND ceiling. I'm actually impressed but the structural integrity of all of the steel framing I have uncovered. This bus is super solid!
That's interesting what you say about the green floor cowlitzcoach. I appreciate your suggestion to leave the floor as is for now, but after seeing the moisture in the walls I have anxiety thinking about what is under that green floor. I don't think there is plywood under there, but I will find out tomorrow. I think I'm going to have to grind off most of the screw heads that are holding it in.
I'm super stoked to have gotten all this done today. It's so nice to be looking at the bare framing. I'm already contemplating between cotton bat insulation or spray foam, since it looks like insulating shouldn't be that far off, unless I decide to raise the roof. Ha!
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02-20-2018, 09:15 PM
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#9
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Fayetteville Arkansas
Posts: 419
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: GMC G3500 Vandura
Engine: V-8 5.7L Gas
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Wicked paint job!
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02-20-2018, 11:17 PM
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#10
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Winlcok, WA
Posts: 2,233
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You should be able to tell if you have wood under the linoleum. With wood the bolts holding the seat leg down will be almost an inch longer than if there is no wood.
With the seat bolts out and a hole through the floor you should also be able to see if there is wood under the linoleum.
A lot of the buses of the vintage your is didn't have wood under the linoleum but I can't ever remember seeing a bus with the upgraded floor covering that didn't have wood under the floor covering.
As old as your bus is, you might be able to sight down the aisle and see if you don't have wood in your floor. Most buses that only have linoleum over the steel floor will have an aisle that looks like a roller coaster after a lot of years. From all of the feet going up and down the aisle the metal actually stretches between the floor stringers. Which leaves the aisle going up and down over the floor stringers instead of staying flat.
I only suggested that you just leave the floor alone short term so you can get everything packed up and moved out on time.
Taking up the everything that is covering the metal floor allows you to make sure nothing is rusted, it allows you to seal all of the holes from the seat bolts, and as you put it back together you can add some insulation. Without insulation in the floor of a bus the floor can get extremely cold in the winter.
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02-21-2018, 04:28 PM
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#11
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 138
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Welcome.
I have the same bus but mine is a toy hauler (Jeep).
The paint job is awesome!!
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02-21-2018, 05:06 PM
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#12
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 17,683
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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welcome!! a carpenter body nice!!! hey of you are tossing any of those skoolie windows, do let me know.. i need a couple for my carpenter bus!.. love the paiunt job.. looks great!!
-Christopher
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02-21-2018, 07:34 PM
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#13
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New Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 5
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Got some more work done on the bus today, removed half of the floor covering before I had to take my son on an "adventure" per his request. Trying to cram it all in before I head back to real world work tomorrow for the next few days. Hopefully I'm back at it Sunday!
I have literally removed over a thousand pounds of material from this bus. After taking a hammer and chisel to most of the aluminum floor trim, I rolled up the linoleum to find... a beautiful rusty floor! Not a thing between the linoleum and metal, so my bare floor to bare ceiling is 6'3". I'm 5'11.5", so I have a few inches to work with on the floor build. Decisions, decisions...
Also, I really love the coolant hoses running all the way to the back of the bus to a little heater unit on the driver side. I might have to leave those! My hands and body are sore but MAN all this work is definitely gonna pay off!
I cut the linoleum at the driver seat, but am DEFinitely gonna remove all of it as soon as possible. The whole heater box/switch box next to the driver seat is gonna be SO satisfying to remove, clean, & replace on top of finished floor. Gonna have to take the switch box by the ceiling while I take everything else out.
Time to research insulation prices...
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02-21-2018, 07:35 PM
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#14
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New Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
welcome!! a carpenter body nice!!! hey of you are tossing any of those skoolie windows, do let me know.. i need a couple for my carpenter bus!.. love the paiunt job.. looks great!!
-Christopher
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Thanks! I will definitely let you know if I decide to cover up any of my window holes!
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