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Old 09-02-2021, 11:25 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
I have hat and C channel for the International, you're just too far away to make it worth your while.
It would almost be worth the time and gas to drive with the cost of steel these days! I just put in an order for tubing and the guy is just heartbroken over the prices. Getting extra now before it gets worse

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Old 09-02-2021, 11:50 AM   #22
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It would almost be worth the time and gas to drive with the cost of steel these days! I just put in an order for tubing and the guy is just heartbroken over the prices. Getting extra now before it gets worse


https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f14/h...tml#post451635
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Old 09-02-2021, 11:57 AM   #23
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I REALLY regret not going the extra mile to get custom channels, I think skoolie.com has exactly what I need for the international specifically. I've just already spent a bunch on tubes and angles and it would probably not be easy to repurpose later in the build
I've never done a raise (just helped on one) but I don't think there's anything wrong with using square tube and angle. The hat channel is just convenient because it provides the two outer flanges that let you match your new rivets to the lines of the factory ones. Structurally it has the same resistance to bending as square tube but without the same resistance to twisting, which isn't important in a composite bus wall anyway. If I were going to do a raise, I would just use square tube (with shims if necessary), then spot-weld strips of sheet metal on each side of the tube to reproduce the flanges.
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Old 09-02-2021, 10:09 PM   #24
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I've never done a raise (just helped on one) but I don't think there's anything wrong with using square tube and angle. The hat channel is just convenient because it provides the two outer flanges that let you match your new rivets to the lines of the factory ones. Structurally it has the same resistance to bending as square tube but without the same resistance to twisting, which isn't important in a composite bus wall anyway. If I were going to do a raise, I would just use square tube (with shims if necessary), then spot-weld strips of sheet metal on each side of the tube to reproduce the flanges.
I thought so too! But at least on my international (and at least 1 thomas I've seen from buslife on youtube) the hat channels are about an 1/8" larger than standard tubing sizes and you have to "shim" them up with flat bars.

Other than that you hit the nail on the head
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Old 09-02-2021, 10:30 PM   #25
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Went down again today but wasn't able to do much, and was able to take even less photos as my phone wound up in the toilet and all I have is the camera on the toplap which is hard to use.

I'm in a long process of preparing the channel supports by welding 1/8" shims to each side of the tube at 9" long (the amount inside the original channel). Then I have to cut off the "flap" that remains to make it flush with the channel and lastly I grind a cozy little bevel to help keep the original channels from bending outwards as its a tight fit (spoiler warning: they still bend a little).

I tried grinding the face of the flat bar to make it fit a little better but I like hammering them in snug just so I'm sure they're not going anywhere or putting any excess stress on my amateur welds.

I also got some rear supports in the back door area because I found a nice little 1.25" square in the door frame. They might come out later but for now they help keep everything steady.

Last thing to mention is that something I don't think I've seen yet is someone "boxing in" a weld on the inside part of where the old channel and new tubing connect, it gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling so I think I'll keep doing it.

It's gonna be a slow slog until the skins are on.. but then it's go time.

By the way don't duct tape holes in your welding gloves, melted duct tape hurts more than the occasional spark. Don't ask me how I know!
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File Type: jpg chansupport5.jpg (583.0 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg junk1.jpg (218.5 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg rearsupports1.jpg (913.4 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg rearsupports2.jpg (617.6 KB, 10 views)
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Old 09-02-2021, 11:20 PM   #26
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Old 09-03-2021, 06:32 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IC08 View Post
I REALLY regret not going the extra mile to get custom channels, I think skoolie.com has exactly what I need for the international specifically. I've just already spent a bunch on tubes and angles and it would probably not be easy to repurpose later in the build

Hopefully I can salvage enough 20 gauge from my interior ceilings for the transition, if I make it multiple pieces it might make up for my lack of experience.
skoolie.com's stuff is chintzy and not the best. Get some custom stuff made at any local fab shop. Test fit a piece before buying a bunch.
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Old 09-09-2021, 01:13 AM   #28
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That makes me feel a bit better, when I was down there last it was just raining down on the ground and I was getting a little worried. I've got a gallon or so of rust converter just dreading spending a whole day under the bus in a rust cloud

I don't get out of state much but I'll never forget the trip the hills were beautiful. I live in literal flat-land

Big building in the background?
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Old 09-09-2021, 07:51 AM   #29
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Well done IC08

The raise looks like a pro rather than a newbie. The pictures really drew me in. It reminds me of following Transcendence on his YouTube channel. The screws appear to help insure a safe and fine tuned transition. Thanks for the thread.
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Old 09-14-2021, 08:30 PM   #30
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The raise looks like a pro rather than a newbie. The pictures really drew me in. It reminds me of following Transcendence on his YouTube channel. The screws appear to help insure a safe and fine tuned transition. Thanks for the thread.
Thanks that means a lot. Wes is pretty much my spirit animal, I try to copy what he did as much as possible.
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Old 09-14-2021, 08:42 PM   #31
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So it's been very slow going lately, had to take a few days off. I've finally got all the window supports made and learned a l o t about angle grinders. Like did you know that cut-off wheels are great for cutting-off? I do now, but I'll never be getting those long hours back.

Took me ages to learn how to cut angles, wasted two whole days on it. But by gum, there's enough bars on my front transition to continue on with the skinning!

I have literally no idea how many I should put up there, or if I should get fancy and do "criss-crossing" bars for support. I'll attach a screenshot of Wes's (transcend existence youtube) initial transition before he put up that cool sunroof (that I don't have the cojones to attempt) for comparison.

If anyone has any tips or criticisms I would greatly appreciate it.
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File Type: jpg Photo on 9-14-21 at 7.06 PM.jpg (205.6 KB, 7 views)
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Old 09-14-2021, 08:51 PM   #32
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Your raise is looking great.

For cutting angles on bars and stuff, look for a cheap chop saw on Craigslist or wherever. I found one for $40, basically of this variety only older. Just so much easier and faster (and safer) than trying to hand-cut stock with an angle grinder (I've put my angle grinder instantly on the floor twice through my own stupidity and I have a permanent phobia of cutting wheels now).

I don't think you really need angle-braces on the transition, although they certainly wouldn't hurt. The sheeting you rivet (or weld) in place will provide the necessary stiffness to the structure.
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Old 09-14-2021, 11:04 PM   #33
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For cutting angles on bars and stuff, look for a cheap chop saw on Craigslist or wherever. I found one for $40
Hah, I should say the trouble was in MEASURING the angles. I have access to what the in-law calls a "mitre saw" and it eats anything. The two days bit was cutting spare pieces over and over again trying to get the angle and length just right.

In the end I realized the weld was going to fill any gaps anyways. Learning is worth all the stupid parts in-between though I guess
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