Into The Mystic

[carneiro1292]

Yea i dont know if i bought the right elastomeric paint at homedepot but mine is pretty thin. I expected it to much thicker and reflective but got neither. its super dull looking, no shine, and i had to put four to five coats just to feel comfortable. but oh well, the roof is pretty much water proof hopefully.

So yea no pictures this week, will have a few posted next week, the bus is completely stripped and empty. Im gonn abe putting in the thick foam boards on the floor nxt week, liquid glued to the floor.

Im worried about the electrical and foam insulation. when can i spray foam insulate? I figured id get all the exterior lights replaced with leds, backing up camera, whater else i can before i spray foam, then all the interior electric done after the spray since i dont know exatcly where everything will be as of yet. sound good? or should i have most of my interior electric sorted out first before i spray?

[Azuleslight]

Originally Posted by carneiro1292

Yea i dont know if i bought the right elastomeric paint at homedepot but mine is pretty thin. I expected it to much thicker and reflective but got neither. its super dull looking, no shine, and i had to put four to five coats just to feel comfortable. but oh well, the roof is pretty much water proof hopefully.

So yea no pictures this week, will have a few posted next week, the bus is completely stripped and empty. Im gonn abe putting in the thick foam boards on the floor nxt week, liquid glued to the floor.

Im worried about the electrical and foam insulation. when can i spray foam insulate? I figured id get all the exterior lights replaced with leds, backing up camera, whater else i can before i spray foam, then all the interior electric done after the spray since i dont know exatcly where everything will be as of yet. sound good? or should i have most of my interior electric sorted out first before i spray?

That all depends on how you plan to run you electric. You could spray foam the run electrical anf mask it with woof working. This would allow you to easily access thenwiting for repairs. Up to you in the end

[dgorila1]

Originally Posted by carneiro1292

Yea i dont know if i bought the right elastomeric paint at homedepot but mine is pretty thin. I expected it to much thicker and reflective but got neither. its super dull looking, no shine, and i had to put four to five coats just to feel comfortable. but oh well, the roof is pretty much water proof hopefully.

So yea no pictures this week, will have a few posted next week, the bus is completely stripped and empty. Im gonn abe putting in the thick foam boards on the floor nxt week, liquid glued to the floor.

Im worried about the electrical and foam insulation. when can i spray foam insulate? I figured id get all the exterior lights replaced with leds, backing up camera, whater else i can before i spray foam, then all the interior electric done after the spray since i dont know exatcly where everything will be as of yet. sound good? or should i have most of my interior electric sorted out first before i spray?

Install conduit and run your electrical through this. Then you can pull more or remove it if you have issues down the road or want to add stuff.

[cadillackid]

if you are installing pipe for electrical runs be sure to install a pull-string..
-Christopher

[Azuleslight]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

if you are installing pipe for electrical runs be sure to install a pull-string..
-Christopher

Somehow i know i will forget this when doing my electrical.

[scootie]

I used this product to seal the roof.
and love it.
Henry 4.75 Gal. 287 Solar-Flex White Roof Coating-HE287SF871 - The Home Depot
it's hidden the roofing department of Home depot.

also, I used oil based rust oleum from home depot to paint the bus.
very happy with that also. a good sanding should be the only way to paint the bus. BTW.

I'm about to post all my build photos including a deck on my very similar bus.

[EastCoastCB]

Very nice. Gonna use a clear over the rustoleum? It adds UV resistance.

[juliol]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

if you are installing pipe for electrical runs be sure to install a pull-string..
-Christopher

Hey CADILLACKID,what do you mean make sure to install a pull-string?

J

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by juliol

Hey CADILLACKID,what do you mean make sure to install a pull-string?

J

if you are running wires inside of conduit.. esp for a distance... its often easy to pull a string through the pipe before the wire... I attach a shop vac hose with duct tape to one end of the conduit.. then with the pull string I attach (for small conduit) a small section of plastic grocery bag to the pull string.. and the string will be sucked right through the pipe...

once you have the string at both ends.. pull enough extra through that you have more than doubled the length of the conduit.. example.. enough string to go bsck to the opther end of the conduit.. cut the string from the bucket.. tie it off somewhere nice.. then you attach your wires to the string and pull through... once pulled through you still have string at both ends of your conduit.. so you can shuttle the string back n forth to add wires as needed... you never remove the string... and it makes it easy if you ever need to add wires..

Ideal Industries 31-340 Powr-Fish® Pull-Line, Heavy Duty | Graybar Store

-Christopher

[carneiro1292]

progress is slow as it is with most things in life. but its going slowly but surely. Luckily the people next door own several hay and feed stores in the area and had a forklift to help me get rid of the wheel chair lift without damaging it. now that i was free of the the lift, i could finally finish up tearing up the relatively rust free floor, or so i thought. Turns out the back portion of the floor around the back and side emergency door were rusted pretty good, nothing a little elbow grease couldn't fix though.


back portion



after grinding the rust, before rustoleum primer


After primer

[carneiro1292]

I forgot to post but will have pictures tomorrow, but back side emergency hatch has been removed and patched up. Roof has been made water proof with tape and roofing tar over the rivets and plenty of paint.

[carneiro1292]

Ok, so I was at home Depot to by 2x4 for the ceiling studs, and it hit me, could I instead of installing 2x4 in order to have something to screw the ceiling into, just screw the oak plywood ceiling into the already installed ceiling ribs? I want to avoid woods as much as possible in case of a leak and the possibility of mold and crap in the future.



Theres the actual steel ribs, then there's are these screwed in not as heavy duty little sectional ribs the cut in between the actual ribs. There's enough of them spread out enough tht I would theoretically be able to have enough support for the ceiling I think. I've never seen anyone do it like this on this site which is why I ask. I'll let u pros decide. Thx

[Azuleslight]

You can totally screw into the steel ribs. That is what i have seen done the most. Just remember to install the insulation first lol

[carneiro1292]

Should I just skip putting wood studs into the ceiling?

[Tedd]

Originally Posted by carneiro1292

Should I just skip putting wood studs into the ceiling?

Are you talking about putting up 4X8 sheets of oak paneling? What thickness?

How far apart is it between the centerline of two ceiling ribs? More than 16"?

The ribs look up to the task, if you use sufficient screws there shouldn't be a problem with the weight.

If the ribs are too far apart, there is a chance that eventually your ceiling panels might sag a bit.

The only reason I see for putting up 2x4 (or even 1x2) nailers would be if you were fussy about how straight and flat you wanted your ceiling.

[BusFiend]

Originally Posted by Tedd

Are you talking about putting up 4X8 sheets of oak paneling? What thickness?

How far apart is it between the centerline of two ceiling ribs? More than 16"?

The ribs look up to the task, if you use sufficient screws there shouldn't be a problem with the weight.

If the ribs are too far apart, there is a chance that eventually your ceiling panels might sag a bit.

The only reason I see for putting up 2x4 (or even 1x2) nailers would be if you were fussy about how straight and flat you wanted your ceiling.

After reading all the reports of metal fasteners sweating during cold weather, might he be looking at possible moisture damage to the oak paneling?

[carneiro1292]

finaly some progress. Took two months off to deal with life and craziness but things have finally progressed. DOnt have pics but rear flood lights and back up camera. Also finally got the spray foam insulation completed which looks super sweet.

[carneiro1292]

Ok, now i have a few questions on sub floor. This is my sprayfoam insulated floor



I was going to just do a reg plywood subfloor with nice birch ply(i think it has less glue, which means less off gassing, i think
.
But then thought, hmmm.... what if i used soft wood boards instead? No glue, no chemicals, no dangerous off gassing, since even small amounts can be dangerous in such a small space. It way more expensive but worth it to me. Well i went to home depot with the bus and fitted half the bus with boards and realized it was gonna cost $375 to fit the whole floor with this stuff. . F*#k! Well then i went back to get more and came upon the aisle with foam boards and realized hmm what if i throw 1'' foam board insulation on top of the spray foam instead of ply or wood board, then just ad a floating finished floor over it, itll be a 60% saving. No wood means i dont need to coat it with any sealant which means less off gassing, i have a thing with off gassing u see. Less worry on mold and water damage, plus extra insulation, its a win win. heres the thing, if it were up to me id put the thinnest plywood i could over the spray foam and call it a day. I'm 5'11'', i dont have much head space left and adding yet another inch of subfloor, plus another inch for the finshed floor leaves me with one inch of head room. Not good. So i was wondering if i used 1/4 or 1/8(does tht exist?) plywood over 1 inch of spray foam insolation, then finished with 1 inch cork flooring, will that be enough to spread the weight around and avoid breaking down the insulation over time?
Here are my options. I dont think i will use 3/4 ply since it uses to much glue. Ill either use 1/4 ply or thinner, or foam board, pref the ply. SO my question is will the really thin ply hold or should i just go with foam boards instead

[carneiro1292]

ITS BEEN WAAAAAY TO LONG SINCE IVE UPDATED. Anyways, had a car accident(4 months now with no car) and money complications so work has seriously slowed down mostly due to the fact the trip to the bus consists of 2 ubers rides, and 2 trains, a lovely total of almost 4.5 hours. ALso the inability to just run to lowes or homedepot and constantly relying on the good gracious of my hosts(who are amazing btw) to help with rides def slows down progress.

But anyways i managed to put in a quick but pretty efficient super thin and cheap plywood subfloor just keep from digging into the spray foam.
The under window walls are up(found leaks, thx to all the rain) but hopefully ive fixed the issue.


the ceiling pannels are all in



We will finished them with a dark coffee collored trim going inbetween on the joints

[carneiro1292]

ALSO i huge milestone is the rear bed. Its done. It crazy when i look back and remeber how i use to draw the bed and drawers on scrap paper at work a year ago, and how after so much dreaming, and and all the plans i have in my head, it ended up turning out exactly as i had imagined, hell it came out better.

How did i do it? hell if i know, i have ZERO experience with this stuff, ive never really built anything but someone how it worked. Putting the drawer slides were rough, the whole thing i was told was WAY over engineered but whatever, i works and function how i want it to, and better yet, i built it myself. If i had to do it again, i would be F%$Ked cause it was all trial and errors; and loads of errors... loads of errors.

So this is the front face, with our dinning room table pulled out. We didnt want to ad a table, or a fold \up table attached to walls only cause we really do have very little space, again its only a 25' bus, so wedecided a long time ago this is how we would do it, and somehow it worked.


Still need to cleans and add the finishing touches on the interiors

Obviously it still needs to be stained and sanded, but well save tht for later.
The drawers only take up half the space under the bed, which gave us a lot of room for extra storage, accessible from the rear emergency door, and the rear side emergecy door on the passenger side. We call this is our garage which will hold all of our camp/hiking gear, skis/ skateboards, etc, all the things we need but dont necessarily use every day

This is from the rear side emergency door, here you can see all the space we have

with the back door in view. the side door will be usefull for things like skis, or anything long tht wouldt fit in the back door.

This is the rear door