Just Finished painting skoolie

[Omnibot2000]

3 days in the sun, did bulk of the sanding last weekend on the bus, taped and painted the whole thing this weekend.

I used Tremclad that was thinned to about 3-1 with paint hardener and Japan drier so I could tape again in short time.

Used 1 gallon white, 1/2 gallon of black, 1 gallon red, 1 gallon paint thinner, 1 pint of hardener, 1/2 pint of paint drier and a $50 air paint gun.

[Booyah45828]

Looks sharp. Hopefully the hardener works out for you. My only complaint with my rustoleum job was that it didn't weather well and became dull and chalky.

[Omnibot2000]

Originally Posted by Booyah45828

Looks sharp. Hopefully the hardener works out for you. My only complaint with my rustoleum job was that it didn't weather well and became dull and chalky.

I hope the hardener will prevent the fading like you say. Not sure about the UV rating or if it will prevent it but will wait and see.

[magnakansas]

Looks good.

William

[Timeline]

Like how you divided the colors, the red looks great!

[rossvtaylor]

Very nicely done...looks sharp and "rich" (in the good way).

[Gareth Ellis]

Looks great!!

[incubus]

Looks great. I like the color scheme. Haven't tried it yet but heard clear coat(cheap oil base compatible) will keep it from fading. I've done motorcycle ,looked good but spends most time inside.

[JimyIron]

Looks awesome!!

[DanFrazoo]

Very nice!

[747mech]

Where did you get your windows from?

[Meathead]

Originally Posted by 747mech

Where did you get your windows from?

Looks like just bus windows to me.

And a split ADA door?

Dave

[Omnibot2000]

Originally Posted by 747mech

Where did you get your windows from?

Same bus windows, I masked off the glass and painted the aluminum frame. I then tinted the windows, some with mirror tint and some with regular tint. I put mirror tint in the bedroom and bathroom for the day time, at night you can see right through the mirror tint so still need curtains.

If I could do it over again I would not do the mirror tint.

For the back windows at the very rear of the bus, I used vinyl wrap on the glass. Been holding good so far.

The windows I did not use, i placed Styrofoam up against the glass on the inside and outside. Then riveted sheet metal up. Sheet metal painted on both sides with 5 coats of paint. silicone the bottom, left 3 inches open at the bottom for drainage and left the top open under the drip edge at the top of the window. This is to promote drying and breathability behind the sheet metal. In direct sun the steel gets real hot. On the inside you cannot even tell.

[Omnibot2000]

Originally Posted by Meathead

Looks like just bus windows to me.

And a split ADA door?

Dave

Had a wheel chair lift on the right side. I originally wanted to keep the door functional but then decided to close it up when the floor plans changed.

[Omnibot2000]

LED light upgrade done.

Will leave the top lights as they are. As they burn out I will just replace the bulbs with LED equivalent.

Changed over the headlights to a clear glass bulb with a LED light. I really had to adjust them down to match the old headlight height. Did one headlight conversion during the day, when dark matched it to the original. The front turn signals kept filling with water, though about drilling a drain hole but saw the chrome headlight trim with turn signals on Amazon. They look good but are very cheap and cannot recommend them. Took some modifications to fit.

The side turn signal light, straight forward LED assembly.

The rear I dropped the Amber turn signal only light, rewired accordingly to have two 7 inch taillights with the out most light being my turn, inner being my stop and then reverse light. The 4 inch light was recessed and just fits the wall cavity. Again this one is a brake/tail lamp.

Moved my license plate over to the right and wired in a license plate light.

The 7 inch lights I recommend, nice kit. The LED license plate light sucks. Will buy another type. the 4 inch recessed lights I would buy again but does not come with back foam seal like the 7inch light.

[Omnibot2000]

Alternator upgraded. 270 amp. Kept the old 160 amp as a spare for the road. Now have spare alt. and starter

[Sprout.sprocket]

This is a great paint scheme and inspired more black lines for mine which I now LOVE. Mine is Armor coat, actually made by rust oleum according to someone’s internet research comparing it to tremclad. For $45 for a gallon, I bought shutter green, then mixed with white for $71. Still have half a gallon left but have more top coat to go - I’m removing windows before skinning with steel. Any reason why you chose to keep windows in but cover with steel? They come out pretty easily and have poor insulating quality, my main issue is not having the steel to put in currently, so as is for now.

[Omnibot2000]

Originally Posted by Sprout.sprocket

This is a great paint scheme and inspired more black lines for mine which I now LOVE. Mine is Armor coat, actually made by rust oleum according to someone’s internet research comparing it to tremclad. For $45 for a gallon, I bought shutter green, then mixed with white for $71. Still have half a gallon left but have more top coat to go - I’m removing windows before skinning with steel. Any reason why you chose to keep windows in but cover with steel? They come out pretty easily and have poor insulating quality, my main issue is not having the steel to put in currently, so as is for now.

I kept the windows for a couple reasons.

1. I was building the interior of the bus when it was -30C during the winter outside in my back yard. I used my wood stove in the bus to keep warm through the build.

2. While they have no insulating value, they are water tight. If not, I waisted 4 tubes of silicone.

I silicone every crack and joint of the window to make it air/water tight. On the inside of the bus I was able to install up to 1 1/8 inch Styrofoam against the glass. I did the same on the outside before I installed the sheet metal. The covered windows are pretty much sandwiched in Styrofoam. After siliconing, you would not be able to slide these windows open ever again.

When it came to sheet metal, I cut the sheets locally the exact distance between the drip edge above the window to the rub guard below the window. I riveted the sheet metal to the pillars between the windows with Urethane adhesive/sealer.I left the sheet metal open under the drip edge, left 3 inches open at the bottom for drainage if water did get in on the back side.

Seems to be water tight and anywhere I touch on the covered windows inside the bus; its cool to the touch.

I have a roof top A/C, I believe it is 13,500 Btu. On low fan speed it was easily keeping up when it was 38C with the Humidex. Painting the roof white was huge. End of the day, its just a 3 season toy. Not going hardcore full time living that would really warrant a high end year round build. However winter time with the wood stove, I was opening the roof vents. Its a barrel type 100year old ACME wood stove I installed. Probably burned 2 cords of wood in the stove in 1.5 winters while building it.