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Old 11-12-2013, 10:04 PM   #21
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

Since you're a lot farther than I and we have basically the same bus (I think yours is 14 window, mine 15 and mine is a 1995 AmTrans), I was wondering if the structural frames were galvanized or not and how is this thing welded together. I know I'm going to find out when I get the inside off but was wanting to begin thinking how to put another door in the side and close off the front door. The door from my donor travel trailer is 30" wide and I'm going to have to reset one of the side frames/window posts to do so. Keep up the great work!!

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Old 11-14-2013, 02:52 PM   #22
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

Inkblots: We came to decide on the name Linus after Linus from Peanuts. He has always been our favorite character. And after going through alot of other possible names, Linus seemed to fit. He always seemed to be the voice of truth and reason, but still has the dreams and beliefs a kid should (still waiting for the great pumpkin to show up). Its that voice of reason and our dreams that has led us down this path were going on.

Sojourner: Awesome bus you have, my bus is 14 windows and 38' from bumper to bumper. It appears that the structural members are galvanized (they have that crystal like pattern on the surface), as for the welding, it seems that it has more spot welds than anything, and a metric crap ton of rivets.
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Old 11-14-2013, 09:06 PM   #23
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

Here are the pics....


One of the wall panels with the insulation removed. When built, they used what seems like a urethane type adhesive to hold the insulation to the outer wall. What looks like rust in this pic is the yellow fiberglass residue left behind.


I took these photos on Tuesday night. Yeah that is snow on the window....it freakin snowed before thanksgiving in the piedmont of NC.....BRING IT!!



Ceiling panels removed, you can see the bracing in the roof. The braces that run the length of the bus, are of weaker metal and they had only 2 rivets on each side per panel. When I first saw that, I figured it was going to make it difficult to get the new board insulation in. But with it being open channel, it actually helps hold it in place. I'm going to use Great stuff to hit the cracks and crevices between the foam board and the bracing. I think it will also help to hold the insulation up to....like an adhesive....I'll have to get back to ya'll on that later.


So this is the suprise at the bottom of the cracker jack box. 2nd to last ceiling panel removed...the insulation was wet....took it down and there it was in its glorious orange iron oxide form....partially hidden behind the black tar like adhesive used to hold up the insulation. In the side to side rib the exterior sheet metal was riveted from the outside, though they only riveted the sheets at the front edge and back edge leaving a rib in the middle that they only put 2 rivets in. From the inside I could see daylight through a tiney hole, got up on the roof and found 2 rivet holes, the rivets were still there, but they had ripped through the sheet metal and had been that way since built I suppose.


Close up of the rusting. The holes now sealed, wire brush and some Ospho with a coat of paint will take care it before I put the insulation over it.


The rear curved metal removed, will insulate and turn into a cubby of sorts.


Front cubby area, will insulate and do the same. Have already seen some creative ways to utilize this space on some of the builds on here.


Emergency exit that is leaking. Would like to replace with a newer one, but have thought about removing this one and closing in the cut out. This exit would be over the master bed, so it would be nice to draw a breeze through the bedroom at night. but the cost of a new one is around $300....so any ideas??
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Old 11-14-2013, 09:20 PM   #24
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

And people wonder why we recommend removing the inner steel. I did not have that much water damage, but I did have a lot of mold behind the insulation.
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Old 11-14-2013, 09:25 PM   #25
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

I feared the rust would be worse than it is.....I could tell before taking down that ceiling panel there was moisture behind it...the seam and rivets had some white crusty corrosion forming around them. Luckly no mold though....rust I can fix and deal with. But it is a chore, and then I realized I need to put up a substancial ceiling so I can attach my walls were I need them to be for the toilet and shower area. But its all good.........just part of the build and the fun that comes along with it!
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Old 11-14-2013, 10:03 PM   #26
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

Quote:
Originally Posted by Westward
Inkblots: We came to decide on the name Linus after Linus from Peanuts. He has always been our favorite character. And after going through alot of other possible names, Linus seemed to fit. He always seemed to be the voice of truth and reason, but still has the dreams and beliefs a kid should (still waiting for the great pumpkin to show up). Its that voice of reason and our dreams that has led us down this path were going on.
Honestly I was hoping the character was the motivation, I am a fan of Peanuts myself. Well said, too.

I still can't believe this snow nonsense. This was from Tuesday night in Zebulon NC! Hello early winter!


This weather has really been sucking the motivation out of us as far as conversion work is concerned. We need to put the wood stove in before the big propane tank for our house runs out! Once that happens we'll most likely be staying in the bus and converting it at the same time because it'll be warmer than the house!
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Old 11-14-2013, 11:18 PM   #27
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

So much for "Global Warming".
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Old 11-15-2013, 04:17 AM   #28
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

Hang in there, its been between 14* and 20* this week....I hate cold weather more and more each year
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Old 11-15-2013, 05:31 AM   #29
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

The worst thing scientist ever did was call it global warming......global climate change is a better suited name that people would understand better....but thats what happens when politicians try and take science to better their position and line their wallets with more cash....no scientist has ever gotten rich from saying the climate is changing and their is a bipedal influence to it....but all those politicians and corporations have made HUGE money refuting it....just sayin'....

Bansil- I enjoy the cooler weather...atleast for now....till I get old and it starts to make Mr. Arthritis hurt.....
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Old 11-15-2013, 06:42 AM   #30
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

Hey Linus,
Thanks for the info and pics. Gonna be a challenge for me framing in the doorway and trying to weld the frame to the factory one for sure. I'll look into mechanical fasteners (try to find some high strength pop rivets or use threadserts with locktite). Bummer on the rust. Hopefully since mine came from W. TX I won't find much for surprises (although there are always some). I am also glad you mentioned the longitudinal bracing. I want the clerestory to be wider than the frames and will work around that for the portion of the bus that will have have it installed. I'm thinking the main purpose of it anyhow is to keep the inner roof panels from rattling. I hear you on the cold moving in early. It has here as well and I too just got a wood stove installed. Interesting "coincidence" is that solar activity is very quiet right now. Seems we get these things when the "woodstove in space" doesn't have as hot a fire going on and warms up here when the fire get's stoked. Climate is always changing. It's nothing new at all. The hype over the last few decades is just another way for the powers that currently be to make money from us off of chasing their tails.
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Old 11-15-2013, 04:11 PM   #31
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

I'm almost old....my arthritus hurts now
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Old 11-25-2013, 11:10 AM   #32
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

Quote:
Originally Posted by Westward
Emergency exit that is leaking. Would like to replace with a newer one, but have thought about removing this one and closing in the cut out. This exit would be over the master bed, so it would be nice to draw a breeze through the bedroom at night. but the cost of a new one is around $300....so any ideas??
I suggest you get an RV roof vent with a screen like this: http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-v ... 7AodmHEApQ. I will eventually replace my emergency hatches with those. The original hatches are a hassle to open and close and I'm not sure how I would put a screen in to keep bugs out.
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Old 11-26-2013, 05:29 AM   #33
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

I'm biased but I think you should use one of these. http://www.adventurerv.net/maxx-fan-...er-p-1023.html

You can use it in the rain and while driving. When closed it acts like a ceiling fan. I replaced my front emergency exit with one.
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Old 01-11-2014, 09:06 PM   #34
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

So it's been awhile, but work has been getting done (the most we've been able to do so far.... Took all the windows out and rearranged them. Moved the emergency exit windows around and put in some window blanks in the areas behind the showers, closet and the wood stove location.


The blanks are made out of 16ga sheet metal (may be a little overkill), and had the edges bent in 1 inch. The tabs along the side will allow for attachment around the window frame. With the sheetmetal being as heavy as it was, the edges weren't 90 corners, they were round corners at a 90 degree angle, making it tough to get the screws started. The Tek self drilling screws are AWESOME.




Removed the Roof escape hatches and covered over with 16 ga sheetmetal. 1st drilled holes 3in apart 3/8" in along the outside edges of the sheetmetal. Then once on the roof, set the metal over the hole, and drilled a hole through each corner and then loosely screwed it to the roof (Tek 3/4" self-drilling, with neoprene washer). Once set, then used the sheetmetal as a templete and drilled holes into the roof. Unscrewed the sheetmetal, and then placed butyl taped along the edge under the drilled holes to seal between the roof and the panel. (FYI butyl tape seems to be good stuff, and all that I read was good about it, but cold butyl tape isn't very pliable). Then went back and used the tek screws and starting from the middle and working to the outside screwed the panel to the roof. Then caulked around the edge for good measure.


Took the strobe light off the back of the bus, and took the idea from Diesel Dan and WMKBailey, installed an RV vent. Traced the Vent, cut it out using the cutting wheel on the angle grinder, and set the vent in. With the roof curvature, and not wanting to bend the vent frame trying to make it fit, I built up the butyl tape under the vent screw holes and then used sheet metal screws with neoprene washers to hold it down. Caulked around it too. Looks good and it rained like cats and dogs today and no leaks.


Then we moved on to installing the insulation. Came across a good deal on 1.5" blue foam board on craigslist (was the perfect thickness for the roof and walls). Cut the insulation the correct demensions to fit between the roof braces and side braces. With the roof curvature, we then took each piece and cut it into 1/4 for the center section, for the more curved side roof parts, we cut each piece into about 6 pieces.


It was impossible to get each piece cut to fit perfectly, so each peice was trimmed to fit. Some gaps were left behind, so we used Great Stuff hold it in and fill the gaps. Trying to use the little squeeze nozzle was pointless, it was weak and wouldn't fit in the small areas well. Found that puttng on a rubber glove and used the can straight up would fit in the gaps and force the foam in.


To hold up the insulation while the Great Stuff dried, I made some simple braces. Cut firring strips to height, then used 3/8" Pex about 2.5' long screwed to the top of the firring strip. The flexible pex bent, yet applied some upward force.


Got all the insulation in except for the roof patch that I'm going to put a vent in.


Then we caulked all the holes in the floor shut.

Next up, using chalk to sketch out the layout and then start building walls, then insulating the the floor, shower pan and walls, bathroom walls and so on...... PROGRESS!!

By the way....vapor barrier between the insulation and the ceiling/walls...good idea or not?
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Old 01-11-2014, 11:19 PM   #35
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

A very professional job. Thanks for the tip on Great Stuff.
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Old 01-12-2014, 12:00 AM   #36
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

Great work on everything!
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Old 01-12-2014, 09:31 PM   #37
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

looks really good, thanks for the pics. your going to have a nice, warm bus.
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:55 AM   #38
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

Thanks for the detail on the roof insulation. I was thinking
of doing something along those lines. good to see how it
worked out for you.
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Old 01-27-2014, 11:23 PM   #39
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

Looks great, wish we would've done the same, looks like a lot of work but it should definitely pay off.
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Old 02-04-2014, 04:34 PM   #40
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Re: Linus the 1992 Ward Senator

With the insulation in we were able to move on to some other things. After using the butyl tape around the windows, we had some minor leaks (the metal at the bottom of the window opening, had gaps from when it was built, like 1/2" gaps) I went back and caulked the bottom of the windows from the outside with Geocel Proflex RV. That stuff is gooey, smells strong (Lots of VOC's), but looks great and seals awesome. Right as I finished caulking the last windows on one side it began to rain as I stepped off the ladder, and that stuff had no problems with the rain. Also went ahead and installed a 2nd roof vent back through one of the patches for the old roof vent.

Cutting through the 16 ga steel took a little bit and had to use the grinder to round out the corners a for the vent to fit.

With the vent in we wanted to go ahead and frame in the back wall of the bus.

This wall will seperate the living area from the workshop. The wall is built from 2x3's. The side studs and the boards on the floor are screwed through the metal using the Tek self drilling screws, had to counter sink the screws to get the depth needed. The bed is going long ways over the wheel hump, and the wall will be part of the bed frame as well. The water tanks are going to be between the wheel wells under the bed. I've got 2 30gal tanks on order that I am going to hook together for 60 gal of freshwater. The bed will also be high enough for storage of plastic totes under it as well. Over the right wheel hump (facing the back of the bus as the photo is) is going to be closet space and plumbing for the water tanks.



We put up a celing over the areas where the shower and toilet room are going. We used 1x4 firring strips with self drilling pan head screws attached to the ceiling ribs. Since we removed the metal ceiling we needed a material that would could attach the shower and toilet walls studs to, and the 1x4s fit the bill and fit together pretty good too. Had to make them adjust some (put in one screw and then twist, or push, to get the seams to meet and then put the next screw in) Fairly in expensive, about $60 of wood to do it, so we aren't going to do the whole bus ceiling this way (not yet, that would be $360 of 1x4s)



Here is the shower pan with the studs around it. We got a sweet deal on the shower pan and were able to make the slightly larger pan fit. we turned the 2x3s side ways to make it narrower and still strong. Made a box on one side for the shower plumbing later.


Here is the frame of the bottom of the U-shaped couch we are going to make. Left the bottom open for storage. Going to have the cushions in sections so to access the storage just lift the cushion with the plywood under it. The access hole to the fuel tank is also here, so we made sure to leave enough space for access to it if ever needed. The left side of the couch will also double as the booth seat for the dinnette area. We have already made the frame for a removal seat back the can be switched to be on the couch side when sitting at the table, or moved to the table side for sitting on the couch.


To get the passenger seat it I stole Bansils set up. Took the bus seat frame and cut it down width ways to the size I needed to mount the seat, and cut the back of the seat off (that is going to be part of the removal seat back for the couch and dinnette table). Welded the seat frame back together and will reinforce with some angle iron under the cut part. The seat was a sweet freebie from a suburban we used for vehicle extrication training at the Fire department. After what we did to that thing, it won't need a seat any more!
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