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Old 01-22-2011, 11:03 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Hello, I bought a 1995 International Carpenter from BGA Sales and Leasing, they were great to work with. It is a 71 passenger high top, T444E , Allison AT545 automatic, hydraulic brakes and cruise control.

They didn't have to but they delivered it Christmas Eve and since then I have taken out the seats, removed the rear heater, pulled up the rubber floor mats, taken a grinder to the rust and put one coat of primer down. The weather has gotten too cold for a second coat.

Here are some pictures;












Here is my current floor plan, this is the fourth, probably not the last.


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Old 01-24-2011, 01:02 PM   #2
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Does anyone know why my pictures aren't showing up? I followed the directions as I understood them, can someone tell me where I went wrong?

That pictures are in the gallery: http://www.skoolie.net/gallery2/v/Sk..._95_Carpenter/

I think they are all of the right size, I don't get any error, they just don't show up in the placeholder.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-24-2011, 01:29 PM   #3
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Make sure all your measurements are correct then lay it out on the floor using duct tape. Then walk around. The space around the rear bed looks too tight... you might want to drop down to a queen... you will gain 12" doing that. Ditto the shower/toilet. Put a box on the floor to mock up the toilet and "take a shower"... step out. How is the floor space there? Easier to change and move boxes and tape than the real thing. But what do I know.
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Old 01-24-2011, 03:52 PM   #4
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Lorna, you are right there is only about 11" on each side of the bed to get around it. It will be a platform bed so that there will be more toe room. So far, my wife is insisting on a king, maybe after I get some tape put down, maybe I'll even put the bed platorm in there , she will change her mind.

The bathroom is something I'm still rolling aroud ideas for. My first thought was to make it a bath but I haven't been able to locate a big enought pan, that I could afford. There isn't much I can do the the bath sink since it will built partially over the wheel well. I'll keep trying permutations with the tape layout and see what wroks for us.

It got warm enought yesterday to put the second coat of rustoleum of the floor, I;m glad to be done with that.
The roll of Filon that I ordered from Factory RV Surplus arrived today and I ordered euough butyl tape to e-seat all the windows. So, I'm looking formwrd to getting started with all that.

Thanks for the input.
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Old 01-24-2011, 04:19 PM   #5
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Smitty, thanks for the help, I thought that I had done the exact same thing. I compared the soucre between the message I posted with the images and the one you posted this images and it looks like we get differnt path information in the address bar;

I get;
img src="http://www.skoolie.net/gallery2/v/Skoolies/MCH_95_Carpenter/DSC08888.jpg" alt="Image" />



</div>

and You get:




</div>

Any idea why, am I copying the wrong thing, is it browser (IE 8 for me), OS (XP for me)?

Thanks.
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Old 01-24-2011, 05:44 PM   #6
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Welcome and the bus does look nice
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Old 01-25-2011, 01:31 AM   #7
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

like it its sure big welcome here ! oh man yer gonna be busy
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Old 01-25-2011, 08:30 AM   #8
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Smitty,
It turned out to be IE related. No matter what I tried to do in IE to get the URL, it wouldn't work. So, I decided to try FireFox. When I right clicked on a photo and selected "View Image", the path that I get works.
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Old 01-26-2011, 01:08 PM   #9
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

My Filon and my butyl tape have been delivered, so this weekend I hope to remove all the windows, skin over some and re-caulk the rest. I plan on removing and skinning over 5 windows on the starboard side (closet, bathroom and refrigerator) and 3 on the port side (bunks). I've read every post on this site that I could find about skinning and think I've got as much info as I'm going to. If anyone has any experience with Filon or FRP, I'd appreciate any tips or hints.

I'm trying to get everything dried in before I start putting in any walls and interior fixtures. I've seen evidence of what look like leaks from around the windows and hopefully the butyl tape will seal those. Other then the windows the only other leak that I know of is the rear escape hatch, my plan is to replace both escape hatches with dome skylights.

I have a question about the subfloor. Is it better to cut holes for the electrical and plumbing through the steel before putting down the plywood or does it matter?
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Old 01-28-2011, 05:55 PM   #10
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Thanks everyone for being so welcoming!

Quote:
I would cut holes last thing, and here's why. You certainly can rough-in electrical, plumbing, HVAC, etc....it's done every day. BUT be darned sure your dimensions are perfect, or you'll be relocating holes, and left patching the ones in the wrong location(s). You'd have to know exact location of walls, finished walls, etc, and most don't go to that extent. You may need to shift a wall one way or the other, find-out you've decided to change something, etc. Insulate/sheet your floor, frame your walls, and go from there (rough-in your mechanical), same as building a house.

Smitty
That makes sense, I guess I should be mindful of the location of the metal floor joists under the decking when I position things like the toilet and the shower pan.

Quote:
looks like your bathroom sink is really big unless I'm not sensing the scale properly.
That isn't to scale. The software I used for the floor plan has a pretty limited library of fixtures. That is more of a place holder for a built in vanity that will partially cover the wheel well.

Quote:
I like the idea of skylights to replace your leaky escape hatches, but I would think also about including a venting fan on one of them to help get heat out in a hurry, or at least a skylight that opens.
That's a great idea. The forward escape hatch doesn't leak, so I'll probably leave that one in place for now. I've already disconnected the buzzer so that I can put the front edge up to act like an air scoop when driving. I will definitely look in to a vent with a fan.

I was planning to skin some windows this weekend. I'm not sure if that is going to happen now. I bought a 57" x 144" sheet of Filon from Factor RV Surplus http://www.factoryrvsurplus.com/index.php. I rolled it out a weighted it down last night but it still has some serious curl to it. I have no idea how long it will take to flatten out. Maybe I need to heat it up a little? But i don't think it is going to be flat enough to work with this weekend.

At first I was considering using Stabond to glue the Filon directly onto the metal uprights between the windows and then screwing it down with panhead screws. But then in almost every example that I found the Filon was glued to luan so that made me think that I should laminate it to the luan and then screw that to the uprights. That doesn't seem right because then I would need to waterproof the edges of the luan.

I've seen one or two examples where plywood was cut to fit the window opening then installed so that they are flush with the outside. Then the siding is glued on top. To me that seems the way to go. More work but stronger and more water tight in the long run. Is that the best way to do it? Is there an other alternative that I haven't seen?

Originally I wasn't planning on adding any insulation to the floor but after reading so much on the topic in the forum, I've been reconsidering. Maybe i should quit reading before I completely blow the budget. My plan for loor insulation was to use glue down cork flooring over the plywood and that's it. Now I think it might be worthwhile to put down a coat or two of paint with the ceramic bead additive in it. I've heard it works pretty well. Has anyone used it on the floor?
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Old 01-29-2011, 12:01 PM   #11
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Looks like you have a great start...and again welcome! Unless I missed it, it looks like your bathroom would be on the passenger side. I don't know if that would be a problem, but it seems that most people put them on the driver's side. I think that has to do with holding tank location and dumpsites. I might be wrong, but I think a vast majority are on the driver's side. I'm not that far along in my conversion, but I do plan to put my stool on the driver's side...I'm sure I had a "reason" for it! Like I said, I might be wrong and I'm sure someone will correct me if I am!!

Good luck on the rest of your conversion!
Ben.
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Old 01-29-2011, 12:44 PM   #12
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Thanks Ben.

We decided the keep the side door usable. Between that and the wheel well position, the layout worked out more to our likening with the bathroom on the passenger side. I haven't gotten all the details worked out yet but my plan is to of course have the black water tank on the passenger side directly beneath the toilet and the grey water tank of the driver side. The sewer hook up(s) will be on the driver. It might not be as straight forward as having both tanks on the driver side but I think it will work out. The freshwater tank will also be on the driver side, I'm considering putting it under the bunks.
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Old 04-20-2011, 05:03 PM   #13
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

I haven't posted in a while, between the family having the flu and work I haven't gotten to do as much as I would have liked to. But progress has been made. I have skinned the windows, 3 on the driver's side and 5 on the passenger side. Here's a shot of the passenger side;


Eventually I'll paint it the same olympic white as the rest of the bus and the screw heads won't show as much.

Here's a couple of pictures from the inside of the plywood, brackets and caulk.




And one with some insulation, this is the passenger side.


On the outside I added 1/4 inch plywood, glued and screwed to the 1/2 inch plywood, to bring the surface flush with the exterior metal. I used Bostik 1100 FS to glue the filon to the wood and metal and then screwed the filon to the metal between and below the windows. http://www.bostik-us.com/files/tdsfiles/1100FS.pdf It worked well, it has good initial adhesion and about a 90 minute work time.

The screws are probably overkill but better safe then sorry and they match the rivets used on the exterior. Overall, I'm happy with the results. I think the plywood and filon way is good for someone like me who doesn't have metal working experience. It wasn't expensive, I spent less then $350 for the filon remnant and the glue. I had to buy a whole case of the glue and I have half of it left which I can use to put up the FRP in the bath.

Other then that I have started painting the overhead. Spend a lot of time prepping. Still needs a second coat. Having the flu didn't stop me from ordering a lot of stuff, cork flooring, jack knife couch, captain's chairs and pedestals, skylight and a few other minor parts.

Now that everyone is back to health, hopefully I'll be getting more time to work on the bus.
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Old 06-21-2011, 04:19 PM   #14
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

A lot to catch up on, finished the interior paint, subflooring is in, the walls have been furred out, wiring has been installed and both skylights are installed. Pictures of all will be coming soon but right now I have some pictures of how I installed the skylights in place of the rescue hatches.

I got the skylights from E Z Tops. http://www.rvskylight.com/rvskylights.htm

The curb of the rescue hatch is 24 5/16" X 24 5/16", OD so I bought the 23" x 23" x 5" high skylight with a 1-1/2" wide flat flange ( 26" x 26" OD ).
http://www.rvskylight.com/rvskylight23.00x23.00.htm



Here's the parts for one skylight:
4 31" Gray Composite Deck Balusters
16 Self Drilling Screws Panhead Phillips 10 x 1
10 foot of 1/8" x 1 1/4" aluminum angle
8 2" deck screws
1 tube Urethane sealant/glue ( I used Bostik 1100 Fast Set)
Peel & Seal 6" X 25' Aluminum Roof Repair tape
styrofoam sheet insulation

Here's the composite lumber frame assembled with a little urethane and the deck screws.



Dry fit the frame over the rescue hatch curb to be sure. While you have it in place make a template of the space between the outside of the hatch curb and the inside of the frame corner. Make another of the outside of the hatch curb and the outside of the frame corner.
Use the urethane to glue the skylight to the frame. Miter the aluminum angle to fit over the flange. Use the self drilling screws to attach the angle to the edge os the frame, not through the top so as not to go through the skylight flange.



Use more urethane to seal the angle.



Use the inside corner template to cut the styrofoam to fill the corner spaces and use the outside corner template to cut the roof repair tape. Cut the styrofoam ans tape slightly large so as to get a tight fit on the corners when you put it in place.



Put the styrofoam in place, stick the roof repair tape over it and staple in place. Once the urethane is dry it is ready to install. I'll add picture of the skylight in place and secured soon.
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Old 06-22-2011, 06:58 AM   #15
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Nice work on building the skylights...looking forward to seeing them installed.
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Old 06-23-2011, 06:57 PM   #16
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Here's one of the skylights in place. I secured it using the holes left by the hinge mechanism.


A closer look at one of the holes, it was raised around the edge but I took it down with a dremel before forcing the skylight down.


I used some of the washers that were used to hold the windows in place. I have a lot from the eight windows that were skinned. The washer covers the hole and gives a more finished look. I used 2" oval head screws. They are long enough to go through the plactic hatch curb and about in inch into the composite wood frame.



A couple of shots of the roof.




I got them in just in time, we had our first heavy rain in weeks the leaky hatch is gone.
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Old 06-24-2011, 06:46 AM   #17
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Nicely done.
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Old 06-24-2011, 10:06 AM   #18
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Those really came out well. I'll bet it lets a lot of light into the bus.
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Old 06-24-2011, 04:36 PM   #19
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Great start. And if you are looking for some killer adhesives for metal, Google "Sika". They make a wide range of industrial grade sealants and adhesives for the auto & airline folks that are stronger than rivets or even welding. I used one of their products on a 40' BB years ago and the results were outstanding.
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Old 06-26-2011, 07:41 PM   #20
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Re: Mark's 95 Carpenter International

Just a couple of pictures of the 2 x 3 framing and the wiring.



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