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08-03-2021, 08:18 PM
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#201
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 787
Year: 1993
Coachwork: 44' Newell Coach
Engine: 8v92T Detroit
Rated Cap: 2 adults and two pigeons
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Today I received the custom made baggage doors for the bus. Took exactly 9 weeks to get since I placed the order. There are 6 of them in various widths. I also received four of each style clamps pictured to help hold up the under body 16 ga steel panels and help with fabricating the front and side doors.
Ironically I have someone that is propositioning an offer to buy my bus. I doubt I will sell since I am over 30k in everything so far. That said, I purchased all the steel needed to finish closing this sucker up two days ago. All custom cut to the dimensions I needed and galvanized.
I should add that I connected the batteries to the bus and started it up with no issues for the first time since May. Always impressed how quick it starts and how amazing it runs. I believe it will need some suspension work as it has a tittywonkas lean on the driver side. From my visual inspection, It looks fine. It sits low on the left side by about 3"
__________________
--Simon
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08-03-2021, 10:47 PM
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#202
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 993
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: CS RE
Engine: ISC 8.3 L 260 hp
Rated Cap: 36
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Wow! I can't wait to see the installed doors.
Ted
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08-05-2021, 02:16 PM
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#203
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 1
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I'm in Mesa AZ as well, if you ever need a hand let me know id be glad to help.
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08-07-2021, 05:29 PM
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#204
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 787
Year: 1993
Coachwork: 44' Newell Coach
Engine: 8v92T Detroit
Rated Cap: 2 adults and two pigeons
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Cruising on the underfloor storage. Welded in the bottom most 16g steel. The space between the 1x1's will be hard foam topped with 1/2" plywood and finally thin commercial carpeting. Really happy with how this is turning out. Small steps included installing a custom made air intake louver which had been sitting around since I had it powder coated. It is really hot out and I can only work in 20 minute spurts before heading inside for a cool down break.
__________________
--Simon
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08-15-2021, 10:14 PM
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#205
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 787
Year: 1993
Coachwork: 44' Newell Coach
Engine: 8v92T Detroit
Rated Cap: 2 adults and two pigeons
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I started on the front door fabrication. Does anyone with experience in this department have any insight on how I should finish the exterior sheeting of the door? I was going to leave about 1/2" overlap of steel which would sit flat against the bus siding. Good idea? bad? As of now, it is welded in as you see with about 1" space around the door which would allow me to put in a jamb or something. My plans are for two fixed windows. One for clear view of the mirror and one for curb watching. Aside from the dead bolt lock, I will install a typical RV latch too. When it comes in tomorrow, I can figure out a way to cut it in. So what would you finish the door edges with? I do not have a method of rolling the steel to create a lip. I added a pic of where the underfloor storage build is at so far.
__________________
--Simon
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08-17-2021, 09:50 PM
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#206
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 787
Year: 1993
Coachwork: 44' Newell Coach
Engine: 8v92T Detroit
Rated Cap: 2 adults and two pigeons
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Threw some hinges on and voila!, We have a solid swinging door. I was jumping up and down on the frame with it wide open and it is solid. Very happy with how it turned out. I am just going to sheet it with 16ga and overlap the top and latch side by 1/2". Good idea, bad? Need to create a lip on the inside for a gasket to seal around it. RV window will go on upper section and smaller oblong window at the bottom for curb viewing. We have been getting hammered this summer with hurricane rain storms at night. The humidity is just terrible despite the temps being unseasonably cool.
__________________
--Simon
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08-17-2021, 11:07 PM
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#207
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Fraser Valley British Columbia
Posts: 1,043
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: C7 Cat
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Looking awesome Simon
For a door seal consider using a bulb weather seal, I used this on the ramp door of a landing craft boat I have and it’s kept the water out pushing thru waves so should do the trick.
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08-27-2021, 04:48 PM
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#208
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 787
Year: 1993
Coachwork: 44' Newell Coach
Engine: 8v92T Detroit
Rated Cap: 2 adults and two pigeons
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Not much to report. Door is painted and lock sets are roughed in. I cannot skin it yet until I drive it for emissions testing and find dual pane fixed windows to know the cut out size. Door latches work incredibly well!
__________________
--Simon
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08-27-2021, 06:37 PM
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#209
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Are you going to weld in framework for the windows?
__________________
I Thank God That He Gifted Me with Common Sense
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08-27-2021, 06:43 PM
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#210
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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This is looking really good. I've been looking at my own trashed out door lately and realizing that it's my last big fabrication TODO other than underbody storage. I want to do something like what you're doing except keep it as two half-doors with a three-point latch on the right one ( like what I have on my bulkhead door), but I'm not entirely sure how to handle sealing the center joint on something like that.
I want to keep it as two half-doors so I can leave the door open without it projecting out too far from the side, but I guess just having a full door that can swing all the way open to the side would work too. I may just go with your style.
Another problem is that I know it would take me like two weeks or more to finish it and I can't just leave my bus open with a tarp over it all that time.
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08-27-2021, 06:45 PM
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#211
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Did you have any trouble keeping your door flat and square? My bulkhead door warped quite a bit when I welded it up and I had to weld on a screen door tensioner to get it back flat. I'd kind of rather not have to do that for my side door, but I guess it wouldn't be a big deal if I did.
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08-27-2021, 08:28 PM
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#212
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 787
Year: 1993
Coachwork: 44' Newell Coach
Engine: 8v92T Detroit
Rated Cap: 2 adults and two pigeons
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
Are you going to weld in framework for the windows?
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I probably will when that time comes. For now we have been getting alot of rain so trying to protect the bare steel from rusting.
__________________
--Simon
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08-27-2021, 08:31 PM
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#213
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 787
Year: 1993
Coachwork: 44' Newell Coach
Engine: 8v92T Detroit
Rated Cap: 2 adults and two pigeons
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
Did you have any trouble keeping your door flat and square? My bulkhead door warped quite a bit when I welded it up and I had to weld on a screen door tensioner to get it back flat. I'd kind of rather not have to do that for my side door, but I guess it wouldn't be a big deal if I did.
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I bought these corner angle holders from Amazon that jigged up the frame nice and square. I also used a large framing square to check it and did multiple small tack welds first to prevent warpage. Once all was welded up, it held true. Honestly, this was one of the projects I was hesitant doing fearing it would come out sloppy. I need to put a backer behind for the weather seal to keep out air and water infiltration.
__________________
--Simon
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09-01-2021, 05:06 PM
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#214
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Arizona
Posts: 22
Year: 2003
Engine: 7.3 PowerStroke With 5 speed Transmission
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bus'n it
So I have a third party MVD inspector coming to my house on Monday to verify I have the 4 of 6 requirements to title the bus as a MH. Today I set up the interior as he suggested including some carpet and a bed. I am sure he wants it to look more converted than just a simple countertop on a dirty vinyl floor. Everything is bolted down including the propane heater thats not visible in this picture. Once its titled, then I can gut the bus to the frame and go about my plans. Still debating on raising the roof. Either way I want to remove the windows and sheet the sides to provide for RV windows.
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What third party did you use and how much did it cost? I was planning to take mine to the MVD on Friday.
edit; I actually just spent two hours at "work" reading your entire thread and found the answer. Great thread, awesome build! Also in mesa!
keep it up!
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09-01-2021, 05:36 PM
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#215
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,222
Year: 1999
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC1000 HandyBus
Engine: 5.9L 24V-L6 Cummins ISB
Rated Cap: 26 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
Did you have any trouble keeping your door flat and square? My bulkhead door warped quite a bit when I welded it up and I had to weld on a screen door tensioner to get it back flat. I'd kind of rather not have to do that for my side door, but I guess it wouldn't be a big deal if I did.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bus'n it
I bought these corner angle holders from Amazon that jigged up the frame nice and square. I also used a large framing square to check it and did multiple small tack welds first to prevent warpage. Once all was welded up, it held true. Honestly, this was one of the projects I was hesitant doing fearing it would come out sloppy. I need to put a backer behind for the weather seal to keep out air and water infiltration.
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I'm no pro welder. Let me be very clear on that.
I found that multiple tackwelds help. Corner braces did not. Using only corner braces, the corners looked square until I released the clamps on the braces; then the metal just sprung into the position it wanted to. If your not careful with the small tack-welds, they can cool and shrink just as much.
The best solution I found was (a) practice, combined with (b) opening the joint a bit wider that 90°, say 91° or something. Then when the welds cool and shrink, the joint closes to 90° square. It takes experience (practice) to know just how much to "open" the joint, and just how hot you get that bead going, how thick the metal is, and probably other factors I'm forgetting.
__________________
Look at the Sky; look at the River. Isn't it Good?
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09-01-2021, 09:33 PM
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#216
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Near Flagstaff AZ
Posts: 1,951
Year: 1974
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: "Atomic"
Engine: DD 8V71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathang05
What third party did you use and how much did it cost? I was planning to take mine to the MVD on Friday.
edit; I actually just spent two hours at "work" reading your entire thread and found the answer. Great thread, awesome build! Also in mesa!
keep it up!
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I missed who he used...but it's been a while since I read through his whole great thread.
We're also in AZ and I've been very happy with the services from FooteWork, a third party MVD biz. They even have some useful documents (like power of attorney) on their website, which we've taken advantage of.
And to you Bus'n It...that door frame and lockset boxes looks fantastic. Nicely done, as is all that you've done.
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09-01-2021, 11:02 PM
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#217
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 787
Year: 1993
Coachwork: 44' Newell Coach
Engine: 8v92T Detroit
Rated Cap: 2 adults and two pigeons
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Prompt Titles in Phoenix. They sent a guy over to the house for $60 to inspect my makeshift temporary build to get RV title. I paid the guy $100 for his time. Thought $60 was not worth the gas! He was appreciative. They called the next day to tell me the paperwork was done and I went in, paid the fees and registered the MHA class vehicle. (Motor Home A) Title arrived about a week later. Nice and easy. Just renewed the insurance over the weekend. Need to get emissions done by the 15th so I can renew registration for 2021/2
__________________
--Simon
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09-03-2021, 09:26 PM
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#218
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 787
Year: 1993
Coachwork: 44' Newell Coach
Engine: 8v92T Detroit
Rated Cap: 2 adults and two pigeons
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Drove the bus for the first time since I brought it home last year. Needed to get emissions done for registration renewal. Once that was complete, I took it in for new wheels and tires. One of the tires had a leak and the others were really cracked. original tires were speed rated at 55. Once I got to the tire shop, noticed the radiator tank had a crack and began dumping its life green blood. $4800 for wheels tires and alignment. They will quote out radiator but I have a feeling, I will just swap it out myself. Bus drove perfectly with gobs of power. Forget how amazing this 8.3 engine is.
__________________
--Simon
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09-04-2021, 12:29 AM
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#219
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Fraser Valley British Columbia
Posts: 1,043
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: C7 Cat
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Holy crap Simon!
Man I have to say that’s absolutely awesome to spend the money and do it right. Since you started this there’s been no cutting corners on anything, spend the bucks and do it the way you want.
Quality build
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09-04-2021, 10:27 AM
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#220
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 787
Year: 1993
Coachwork: 44' Newell Coach
Engine: 8v92T Detroit
Rated Cap: 2 adults and two pigeons
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Thank you Oscar. I get flack about it on the FB pages where the consensus is to find a set of tires for your bus in the dumpster of a tire shop. People think I am crazy that I have almost 40k in this and it is still as you see it. This is with just my labor. Granted, I have amassed a collection of materials including A/C's but still. The negativity I get does set me back rather than being supportive. I can only depend on two people. Myself and my wife who puts the wind under my wings to keep going.
__________________
--Simon
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