Midnight Blue

[joeblack5]

Chris is right. Our attempt in finding the "perfect " solution is complicated... I merely mentioned it to persuade you not to remove the existing ac.

Johan

[cadillackid]

Johan solution is something I would do because I totally dig the custom design stuff..



there are also some new solutions out too. which are 110 volt A/C when parked and road A/C when on the road..



I dont know ,much about them as my busses are pretty much always running if im in them so I only set up road A/C..



these are not plug N play systems, these are components to a system that needs built. i will say ProAir will help you design a system but it is a bit outside the box for them as they do alot of contracts for stabdard systems and also manufacturers of vehicles come to them.. however if replacing your existing systems is in the mix then these inside units might be of interest.


this is a system of sorts.. I have worked with a gentleman named Jeff there.. theres a level of skill required to install and bring up a system like this.. (im a former HVAC engineer so it all comes easy for me.. well sort of anyway ha! A/C always throws curveballs)


12 volt / 110 volt system..


https://www.proairllc.com/313-110-12v-w-106-condenser/




I know space is a concern for a lot of people.. or logistics (tall people bumping heads on ceiling units).. thus why mamny people remove the factory A/C..


thing to think about is the typical school bus has 100,000 - 140,000 BTU of A/C.. thats right enough A/C to cool a mansion or a small offic building..



now granted you will likely insulate your floors, ceilings, walls, windows.. or remove some windows / replace with nice RV windows, etc and not need that much A/C but it takes a lot more A/C to cool a bus going down the highway than it does to cool it when parked.. you may insulate and find that you dont need the rear system and can run just the front one, or you may want both.. or you may be taking the bus to alaska where you dont need any..



I just always ask people to think before tearing out heaters and A/C's that came with their bus.. they are usually somewhat costly to add back in once removed as parts get damaged / wiring and hoses cut, etc..

[DeMac]

I've read this advise from ck before. I have (3) one over the rear engine, two more on the passenger side. Delimas...

[thepojtoo]

Hello all,

As some of you know, we are refugees from the Camp Fire. Our home is not finished with rebuilding and while shopping used motor homes for a coach that would sleep six AND not give me the willies, we came across Skoolies. Never in a million years would I have guess I would be here.

Now that I am here, I LOVE IT. We are in a nice rv park, in a borrowed trailer, and working on our bus at my dads. We are very handy people and the kids are skilled. The boys put in the hot plumbing and the girls did the cold. They were fighting over who got to help. We are bonafide; that is we are licensed, insured and registered. Thing are really coming along. Everything original works on our bus so we have left well enough alone. Except on thing . . .

The front door. How can we keep it? When the engine is running, it works awesome. When switched to emergency, not so much, it is pretty tough to open and close. Any thoughts in a possible disconnect of the pneumatics while stationary and reconnecting while driving? Or, a security door that we can do the same? We are great with framing, plumbing etc. I am not familiar with pneumatics. It is pretty darn cool to drive up to a park with the kids and let them off the bus to scooter while I work on the bus.

I like the doors, they are not great for regular non-driving life. Help?

[Native]

As long as the lever is in EMERGENCY, the doors are free to open. Once in NORMAL, the switch on the driver's console controls the door action. This fill function even after the engine is off ... for as long as there is enough air pressure in the tanks. We keep it in NORMAL while driving and swithc to EMERGENCY when stopped. We have an integrated lock on the door for when we leave the vehicle. I also made a lock-device for when inside, but without air. Our bus loses air pressure over night.

[thepojtoo]

"Free to open" is relative. It is hard to push on egress and hard to pull on ingress. Yes, it does work as you say. Is it possible to completely drain the air while docked? Thank you

[WIbluebird]

I replaced mine with an RV door. I've driven school buses as a job for the last 6 years and dislike air doors and how finicky they are. Plus all the components to fix them are very expensive. The industry is moving to electrically operated doors (with gearboxes that use plastic teeth, grrrr).



RV door has less visibility but it's way more private and comes with a screen door.

[Native]

Originally Posted by thepojtoo

"Free to open" is relative. It is hard to push on egress and hard to pull on ingress. Yes, it does work as you say. Is it possible to completely drain the air while docked? Thank you

Ours is very easy to open & close when in EMERGENCY position on the lever in the bulkhead.



You can drain the air by pulling the relief valve on the air tank under the bus. Unless you make something to dump the air, it will require some physical effort (crawling under the bus) to do so. It will take a few minutes and it is noisy, but it can be done. Alternately, if you have air-ride seats you can fill and drain the seats repeatedly ... many cycles.

[ol trunt]

I found a cable release air tank drain on ebay. You should be draining your air tank regularly so this is a good idea.
Jack

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Tank-Dr...AAAOSwz8Bea-9g