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02-26-2018, 09:07 AM
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#101
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
Posts: 1,494
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E 7.3L
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I got 2 Interstate 6v golf cart batteries to power the bus. Everything is wired now and the bus has 12v and 110v working in it right now. Gotta pick up some wood stain this morning and will update you soon.
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02-26-2018, 07:57 PM
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#102
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
Posts: 1,494
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E 7.3L
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We have power!
Got the entire electrical system up and running. Most of the wiring is ran and everything is working all from free energy from the sun! Also got the power distribution box panels done. Just need to wire the fuses and install cabinet hardware to finish it up.......
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02-27-2018, 05:33 AM
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#103
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
Posts: 1,494
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E 7.3L
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The power went out this morning while the wife was in the shower. She was upset that she could not style her hair before work. I ran a 100 foot extension cord to the bus and she was able to run the hair dryer and then plug in and use the curling iron. She was so happy!
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02-27-2018, 05:54 AM
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#104
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,830
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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that rocks!!!! i used my DEV bus (with its 200 amp alternator) to run my furnace recently when the power went out... {of course it was the one weekend I loaned out my genny}... our busses are useful for all kinds of things!
-Christopher
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02-27-2018, 07:39 AM
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#105
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Elizabeth WV
Posts: 124
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: 466
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Thanks for all the video's, great fun watching your bus come together... I have a friend that has the same bus and want's to sell, anxious to see your floorplan.
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02-27-2018, 09:25 AM
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#106
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 819
Year: 1993
Chassis: IH 3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 66
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Hey bud... just from looking at the pictures, you may want to upsize the jumpers between the batteries and to the inverter. They look way undersized for the amperage the inverter could pull at full tilt. I'd go with at least 0awg if not 2/0. Would hate to see you lose your hard work from an electrical fire.
At surge rating, that inverter can pull over 230amps if 100% efficient... 120 amps at 1500w.
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02-27-2018, 11:08 AM
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#107
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
Posts: 1,494
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E 7.3L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr4btTahoe
Hey bud... just from looking at the pictures, you may want to upsize the jumpers between the batteries and to the inverter. They look way undersized for the amperage the inverter could pull at full tilt. I'd go with at least 0awg if not 2/0. Would hate to see you lose your hard work from an electrical fire.
At surge rating, that inverter can pull over 230amps if 100% efficient... 120 amps at 1500w.
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Those were the jumpers that came with the inverter.
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02-27-2018, 11:20 AM
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#108
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Mullet
Those were the jumpers that came with the inverter.
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Yeah ... 'nuff said
Some welding cable would be better.
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02-27-2018, 12:30 PM
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#109
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 819
Year: 1993
Chassis: IH 3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 66
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The manual for that inverter says those jumper are only for "light loads". Says to upsize for any real power draw. I'd change them.
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02-27-2018, 12:31 PM
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#110
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 819
Year: 1993
Chassis: IH 3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 66
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Check page 6 on the bottom. Also says in the cooling section that "100 watt" is considered a "light load"
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/09...29873059343987
Again... just dont want to hear about a fire from something simple.
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02-27-2018, 12:40 PM
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#111
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Looking good!!
I would offer two suggestions:
As others mentioned, the power cables that shipped are not near ideal. If there is any chance that you may ever hit the surge capacity of the inverter you will be drawing about 250 Amps.
Regarding over current protection on the solar panels. Definitely a good idea. A fuse is ok but a breaker may be more convenient as there will be times that you will want to disconnect the panels from the controller. A breaker is easier. I would suggest the same on the battery side.
Keep up the good work!
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02-28-2018, 06:18 AM
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#112
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
Posts: 1,494
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E 7.3L
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I read the manual on the inverter I got and you guys are right. They refer to these as "starter cables" included with the kit. I will get bigger cables.
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02-28-2018, 06:20 AM
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#113
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,830
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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ive had great luck with the 2/0 welding cable I used to run for my inverter.. its flexible and the jacket on it seems pretty tough too...
-Christopher
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02-28-2018, 08:47 AM
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#114
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,413
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
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I used #2 welding wire, which is pretty beefy, but nowhere close to the size of 2/0. The amp calculator that I used said that for the very short run I was doing #2 would work, but if I were doing it again I would just go straight for the 2/0 for peace of mind.
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02-28-2018, 09:10 AM
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#115
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 819
Year: 1993
Chassis: IH 3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Mullet
I read the manual on the inverter I got and you guys are right. They refer to these as "starter cables" included with the kit. I will get bigger cables.
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If 2/0 is outrageously pricey where you are... Let me know and I could flat rate USPS you a short length. I've got a good bit extra from different projects.
Anyways, keep up the good work.
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03-05-2018, 08:23 PM
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#116
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
Posts: 1,494
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E 7.3L
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Electrical Done
I got all the electrical systems pretty much done. Waiting for my larger cables for the inverter before I fuse it. I got to test the system out to make sure everything works. I also got an estimate on materials and labor from an Amish friend of mine who will help me get this interior construction done since I suck as a carpenter.
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03-05-2018, 09:48 PM
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#117
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, WA.
Posts: 1,109
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American
Engine: 3208 na boat anchor
Rated Cap: 2
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Quite a few of your wires appear undersized in your video.
With 12 volts you have to pay particular attention to line loss in the wire (and connections), i.e. E=IR, with E being the voltage drop of the wire, I the amps running through the wire, and R the resistance of the wire. Power (watts) is equal to the volts times amps. P=EI. So if you drop volts in the wire you get less power to your load.
As far as safety, skinny wires and big currents equals big heat--then fire. Running a hair dryer might pull 80 plus amps through that inverter. To be fire safe install fuses or breakers for the rated current of your specific wires.
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03-06-2018, 06:54 AM
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#118
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
Posts: 1,494
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E 7.3L
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I ordered larger cables for the power inverter that will be fused and I am going to make the 12v wire to the fuse box larger. I already put a larger cable on the jumper to the batteries and a larger ground. These batteries have 5/16" studs for terminals, so I think the terminal will melt down before the cables.
The power inverter will run a small fridge and a coffee pot. The 12v system will run LED lights, 12v water pump, stereo, fantastic fan, and a few USB/12v outlets. Don't think I need that thick of cables for these items.
I ran the fan on high, turned on the dome lamps (which are standard for now), powered up the inverter, turned on the outlets, and charged my tablet, and left everything on for 4 hours while I washed and started sanding my ceiling and everything was cold to the touch.
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03-11-2018, 07:07 AM
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#119
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
Posts: 1,494
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E 7.3L
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I was able to bring the Snap on Pro Link scanner home from work and scan my system on the bus. I was also able to turn the speed limiter off and change parameters.......
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03-12-2018, 09:11 AM
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#120
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
Posts: 1,494
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E 7.3L
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Cabinets
Went to Home Depot and spent a lot of money on stuff needed for the bus build. New un-finished oak cabinets, new sink, new countertop, new fridge, and more building materials. The major construction will begin very soon......
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