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05-30-2015, 08:47 PM
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#21
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 262
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Amtran
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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Shower is inside the bus the fit is pretty good cutting that shape on an irregular shape like a shower is a bear.
Got excited so I dry fit a couple of things
__________________
"This is my ship...the Nebuchadnezzar, it's a hovercraft."
~Morpheus
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05-31-2015, 05:35 AM
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#22
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Georgia
Posts: 16
Year: 1979
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 6.1L, 370-4v lima
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What kind of composting toilet did you go with? Brand/name? I was looking at going with a sunmar for my own build.
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05-31-2015, 06:29 AM
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#23
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 262
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Amtran
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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I went with Natures Head, from what I've read the toilets that work best separate the 1 from the 2. Some of the toilets that don't result in big blocks of well you know. 12v volt fan is great too for ventilation.
__________________
"This is my ship...the Nebuchadnezzar, it's a hovercraft."
~Morpheus
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05-31-2015, 07:54 AM
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#24
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 584
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: I.H.
Engine: DT360
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Uh,is that a pic of the pattern leanign up against the shower where it will be? It looks like the shower is going to face the front or rear of the bus. Is that correct? If not, the pattern should be on the sides of the shower, not the front and back. Maybe I am seeing it wrong.
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05-31-2015, 07:58 AM
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#25
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 584
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: I.H.
Engine: DT360
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Oops. My mistake for posting before I saw the finished cut pics. It looks great facing that way.
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06-05-2015, 07:07 PM
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#26
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 217
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner HDX
Engine: CAT 3126B250
Rated Cap: 84
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What size is that shower? Did it come as a single piece? Where did you find one? I've been looking through many options and just can't find the right combination.
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06-06-2015, 04:47 AM
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#27
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 262
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Amtran
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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It's 32" x 32" x 73", I think the name on it is Lasko, I bought from someone doing a remodel on CL for $100. Trying to get back out there this weekend to do more work unfortunately some folks close to me don't share the same sense of urgency as me in continuing the work
__________________
"This is my ship...the Nebuchadnezzar, it's a hovercraft."
~Morpheus
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06-06-2015, 12:50 PM
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#28
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Almost There
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: South Cacalackey
Posts: 69
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 72
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nice job on those cuts.
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06-07-2015, 08:36 PM
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#29
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Bakersfield, California
Posts: 1,013
Year: 1976
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: Detroit 6-71 Mid-Ship Mounted
Rated Cap: 79 at Birth
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Looking very good!
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06-07-2015, 09:12 PM
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#30
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 262
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Amtran
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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Thanks guys
__________________
"This is my ship...the Nebuchadnezzar, it's a hovercraft."
~Morpheus
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06-10-2015, 06:25 AM
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#31
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 262
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Amtran
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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Steel studs are helpful for mounting studs to ceiling contour
__________________
"This is my ship...the Nebuchadnezzar, it's a hovercraft."
~Morpheus
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06-10-2015, 08:46 PM
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#32
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Almost There
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 92
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share the video please
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06-11-2015, 06:16 AM
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#33
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 262
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Amtran
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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Here is the video, think I'm gonna use more of this stuff (steel studs), 2x4's weigh a lot, but I'm glad I used them for the shower I feel like it needs a little more stability than say a closet.
https://youtu.be/cfdLV2IoaIE
__________________
"This is my ship...the Nebuchadnezzar, it's a hovercraft."
~Morpheus
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06-11-2015, 10:12 AM
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#34
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Almost There
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 92
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Good video. Wonder if he finished his bus and has more how too video's
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06-11-2015, 11:12 AM
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#35
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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He needs to use different heads on his screws for much easier driving.
Robertson head screws can also be had for the same material and don't kick out side ways the way his Philips screws did.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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06-11-2015, 01:47 PM
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#36
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: ...little north of Toronto Ontario
Posts: 606
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomsass
Chassis: FreightShaker
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 5 speed
Rated Cap: 2 ATV's and friends
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I think Robertson screws are more common in Canada [Milton, Ontario...use to pick up there].
Has anyone tried.... curving/rolling a piece or pieces of 1" x 1" x 1/8" angle the shape of the roof/walls/floor then cut a piece of 3/4" plywood with the same shape and screwed the angle to the plywood so you have a 3/4" thick wall instead of a 3.5"-4" wall? ...I realize you'd have to notch it in a few places to make the curve, maybe even tack weld the cuts for strength.
The way I'd like to layout the bus [2 walls], I could really use the extra space and one piece of 3/4 ply might be less weight than all those studs and wall board on both sides....not sure.
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06-11-2015, 05:00 PM
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#37
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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I'm planning on using steel studs as much as possible, when I went to price them I found out it's also offered in 2 1/2 in also
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06-12-2015, 12:13 AM
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#38
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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My entire interior framing will be metal.
So will my cabinets, cupboards, closets, ect.
There will be no change is size from moisture/climate, no rot, bugs, falling apart from vibration, ect.
I can't wait to get to that stage of the build.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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06-13-2015, 09:49 AM
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#39
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,791
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster
My entire interior framing will be metal.
So will my cabinets, cupboards, closets, ect.
There will be no change is size from moisture/climate, no rot, bugs, falling apart from vibration, ect.
I can't wait to get to that stage of the build.
Nat
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Will you be using steel studs like the fellow in the video, or normal steel-yard steel?
I, personally, wouldn't use the steel studs for anything inside of a bus. As was mentioned, they take up a lot of space. Also, they seem rather flimsy unless properly sandwiched between sheets of plywood or steel. I like building with proper steel, though, such as angle iron and square tubing, but I typically use wood unless I want the extra strength.
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06-13-2015, 11:56 AM
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#40
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty
Will you be using steel studs like the fellow in the video, or normal steel-yard steel?
I, personally, wouldn't use the steel studs for anything inside of a bus. As was mentioned, they take up a lot of space. Also, they seem rather flimsy unless properly sandwiched between sheets of plywood or steel. I like building with proper steel, though, such as angle iron and square tubing, but I typically use wood unless I want the extra strength.
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I will be using steel yard steel sheet, 14 and 18 gauge bent and formed with extra bends for strength and rigidity.
Same as I did for my residential door install.
Steel yard angle iron and channel are too heavy IMO.
Some lighter gauge square tubing may be ok.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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