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Old 07-27-2015, 07:54 PM   #41
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I found that Goo Gone and rough steel wool took care of the leftover adhesive from all the stickers.

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Old 07-30-2015, 11:44 AM   #42
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The last few times I've started the bus up a light on the dash reading "intake htr" lights up. Not sure if this is something I should be worried about. Haven't run the bus long enough to see if it goes away (was just moving it around each time).

Hmmmm.
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Old 07-30-2015, 11:54 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by bustagator View Post
The last few times I've started the bus up a light on the dash reading "intake htr" lights up. Not sure if this is something I should be worried about. Haven't run the bus long enough to see if it goes away (was just moving it around each time).

Hmmmm.
I wouldn't start a diesel if I don't have enough time to let it get up to temp or at least warm.
That said- the light is the intake heater indicator.
Is it cold or cool where you are?
I'm just guessing but it could be that the intake heater needs to warm up before you crank it. Have you tried turning the key on but not starting the engine right away? if not, don't crank it right away. Let the gauges sweep and see if the light goes away after 10-30 seconds.
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Old 07-30-2015, 11:58 AM   #44
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So it's pretty much the glow plugs for the bus? It was like 95 degrees (f) out when I was starting it, so I hadn't even considered let it warm up before starting it.... I'll try that.
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:19 PM   #45
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what engine do you have?
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Old 07-30-2015, 01:21 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
I wouldn't start a diesel if I don't have enough time to let it get up to temp or at least warm.
That said- the light is the intake heater indicator.
Is it cold or cool where you are?
I'm just guessing but it could be that the intake heater needs to warm up before you crank it. Have you tried turning the key on but not starting the engine right away? if not, don't crank it right away. Let the gauges sweep and see if the light goes away after 10-30 seconds.
Correct, every one of the diesels at work need 20 seconds to warm the intake before starting, even in warmer climates.
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Old 08-02-2015, 11:58 AM   #47
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Ordered Ospho online last Sunday and it was delivered on Wednesday. Applied it to the rusty spots the other day with a brush. Not sure how I feel about the results. In some spots it worked like a charm after about 24 hours (surfaces turned black), in others it still looks rusty as all get out. I think I may not have put enough on some spots.

So yesterday I used a spray bottle to reapply it to the spots where it hadn't seemed to have penetrated, looking better today, although the white gunk that has formed over some of it is somewhat intimidating. Hoping it dries and turns to powder as advertised.

Pictures are after the first coat of Ospho.

There are a few very small holes in the floor, mostly around the entrance. I'm thinking of just using caulk and some small sheet metal squares to seal them up. The metal still looks pretty solid.

Pictures are here: http://imgur.com/a/AkYcP/all
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:10 PM   #48
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You need to get as must of the rust off before using the Ospho.
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:29 PM   #49
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Instructions said to remove all loose rust scale. I ground off everything loose.
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:34 PM   #50
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It took awhile, but eventually the white gunk turned to powder on my floor. I did have to reapply the ospho because I didn't put enough on the first time. I used a sprayer to apply it, and in the heaviest area of rust put a lot on. I think it took a week or two before it was dust, but it could have been a little quicker.
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:43 PM   #51
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Spray bottle works great... That's what I use to put it on.
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Old 08-02-2015, 01:08 PM   #52
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I was kicking myself for killing my back bending over and brushing it on for the first application. Found the spray bottle idea after that in some forum where I was reading about Ospho. Sooooo much easier.
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Old 08-02-2015, 01:11 PM   #53
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So what do the instructions say as far as prep after treating the metal in order for paint to adhere?
I have rust under my rub rails and plan to remove them to treat the rust but want to paint after. Was going to use por15 because I have in the past and it was great. Ospho sounds like its easier to get and cheaper.
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Old 08-02-2015, 01:22 PM   #54
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From Ospho.com:
Quote:
RUSTED METALS - OSPHO is a rust-inhibiting coating - NOT A PAINT You do not have to remove tight rust. Merely remove loose paint and rust scale, dirt, oil, grease and other accumulations with a wire brush - apply a coat of OSPHO as it comes in the container - let dry overnight, then apply whatever paint system you desire. When applied to rusted surfaces, OSPHO causes iron oxide (rust) to chemically change to iron phosphate - an inert, hard substance that turns the metal black. Where rust is exceedingly heavy, two coats of OSPHO may be necessary to thoroughly penetrate and blacken the surface to be painted. A dry, powdery, grayish-white surface usually develops; this is normal - brush off any loose powder before paint application.
From reading about it on this forum: OSPHO factory response - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board , it sounds like some people have had trouble with paint not adhering because the Ospho has not completely dried. It's water based, so the water has to completely evaporate before the paint is applied. The spots where it worked on my bus look great. Hopefully it will all look the same after it has completely dried (still very tacky/wet).
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Old 08-02-2015, 02:32 PM   #55
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Its also important to brush off any heavy stuff after the ospho does its job.
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Old 08-05-2015, 02:33 PM   #56
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Took off the warning lights in the front. Now I have to figure out the best way (and material) to cover the holes with. Thinking of just getting some sheet metal ovals cut to cover two at a time and siliconing and riveting them in place.

When I disconnected the stop sign it made all the warning lights stop working, so I'm having trouble figuring out what the small lights on the top and sides are for (can't really tell if they light up during the day), anyone know if they are running lights or if they have to be removed?


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Old 08-05-2015, 03:44 PM   #57
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As far as i can tell those are clearance lights so people are able to tell how wide and long you are at night, they need to stay and required by DOT standards.

Here: found this link on this forum and helped me with a lot of questions.
DOT Requirements
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Old 08-05-2015, 04:38 PM   #58
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Ya...you need running lights. Tricky part is most school buses have some really bizarre wiring layouts. Lots of safety lock outs, buzzers and all kinds of OSHA nonsense built in.

Being a truly lousy electrician, my solution would be to hire someone who really is one. And if you are lucky...you may be able to track down a wiring diagram for your make & model.

Wish I could help more, but...
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Old 08-05-2015, 05:30 PM   #59
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I suck with electrical stuff but I have to say my Ward/AmTran has everything numbered and color coded.
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