Our Sheelhouse

[ol trunt]

Like you, I wanted to keep the school bus door look so I welded the halves together and mounted them on a parallelogram plug hinge. The open door extends not more than 6" from the body and leaves the entry completely open for access. I substituted fiberglass screen for the shade material on an old fashioned window shade, mounted it vertically to allow the screen to track across the door opening without being in the way when not in use.
Jack

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[RamRod4]

Originally Posted by ol trunt

Like you, I wanted to keep the school bus door look so I welded the halves together and mounted them on a parallelogram plug hinge. The open door extends not more than 6" from the body and leaves the entry completely open for access. I substituted fiberglass screen for the shade material on an old fashioned window shade, mounted it vertically to allow the screen to track across the door opening without being in the way when not in use.
Jack

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Very cool idea! The parallelogram hinge is sweet!

[kidharris]

Originally Posted by ol trunt

Like you, I wanted to keep the school bus door look so I welded the halves together and mounted them on a parallelogram plug hinge. The open door extends not more than 6" from the body and leaves the entry completely open for access. I substituted fiberglass screen for the shade material on an old fashioned window shade, mounted it vertically to allow the screen to track across the door opening without being in the way when not in use.
Jack

I like the mirror on the door idea and the screen looks cool, but what I would really like is to see more detail on how that " parallelogram plug hinge" works.



Also, is it strong enough to drive with the door open? slowly?

[RamRod4]

Diesel hydronic heater is mocked up in the cabinet that I built for it. The expansion tank, control panel, and heat exchangers will be house under our bed with the other plumbing and electrical related items.

Planning to separate the electrical stuff from the plumbing with a plywood divider just in case something ever springs a leak.

Pics show the main heating unit/burner in the cabinet and the 2 liquid-liquid heat exchangers mocked up under the bed. First heat exchanger is for engine preheat and separates the toxic engine coolant from the non-toxic coolant in the main diesel burner loop. Second heat exchanger is for domestic hot water and will be used in conjunction with the non-toxic coolant in case of an internal leak within the heat exchanger. I’m not sure if these exchangers are double walled or not so I’m playing it safe with the non-toxic coolant.

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by RamRod4

We liked the look of the bus door and never have preferred the look of a residential door on a bus so I opted to weld in a 2” x 1” rectangular aluminum tube as a spacer. The distance between the 2 door halves was exactly 2” when the weatherstrip was removed and the doors are 1” thick.

The door looks great and I want to do something exactly like that. Unfortunately I think my door is too far corroded, plus I can't weld aluminum.

[RamRod4]

Here’s a photo dump of recent work. Took a while to complete the diesel hydronic system but it’s done and functioning. Just have to tie up loose ends for controls once the walls are up and switch panels can be installed. Otherwise I’ve just been picking away at little things.

[kidharris]

Originally Posted by RamRod4

Here’s a photo dump of recent work. Took a while to complete the diesel hydronic system but it’s done and functioning. Just have to tie up loose ends for controls once the walls are up and switch panels can be installed. Otherwise I’ve just been picking away at little things.

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You should make an operating/repair manual/folder for all added systems, complete with color coded wiring and plumbing diagrams, pics, installation notes and trouble shooting notes, part model numbers and suppliers, warranties, reciepts etc., now while its fresh in your mind and not completely covered up. Make printouts (hardcopy) and dvd optical disks for your digital files (hard drives are subject to digital rot and hardware failure. SSDs may be an option. Handy reminder for you and whoever has to deal with it later. It may also increase the resale value.


Don't depend on Youtube and skoolie.net for your future use. Websites have a way of disappearing or reorganizing so files disappear and links stop working.

[RamRod4]

Rough framing is underway now that the plumbing/heating system is fully functional and the solar/electrical is roughly mounted. Likely covering the walls with black shiplap.

Top/bottom bunks on passenger side.

Top bunk on driver side with clothes drawers and washer/dryer combo underneath. This bunk will flip up to reveal a mirror underneath and act as a laundry/makeup counter.

Shower walls are also framed.

[TJones]

Your making great progress! What are you using for a battery bank for all of that sweet victron gear?

Ted

[RamRod4]

Originally Posted by TJones

Your making great progress! What are you using for a battery bank for all of that sweet victron gear?

Ted

I was going to go with an off-brand called EnergyWorks USA. They have a 200ah battery that they were willing to cut me a nice deal on but I may end up going with a more well known brand.

I don’t think I can justify the cost of Battleborn stuff although I’ve installed their batteries in another RV solar build that I did last year.

Open to suggestions though!

I’m planning for about 800ah of bank. Hoping to do (4) 200ah batteries or (6- 100ah batteries depending on space/geometry.

[RamRod4]

Fridge is mocked in place!

[Veloc]

That fridge looks pretty tight in. Are you leaving the required ventilation for it? If not you can smoke the compressor, and maybe have problems generating enough refrigeration.

[RamRod4]

Originally Posted by Veloc

That fridge looks pretty tight in. Are you leaving the required ventilation for it? If not you can smoke the compressor, and maybe have problems generating enough refrigeration.

It will have an air gap around it for ventilation. I don’t plan to frame in any of the appliances super tight. I like to leave room in the event one of the appliances needs to be replaced and the replacement is slightly larger.

[RamRod4]

Mocked up the toilet and prepping to drill the holes for the toilet and shower drains.

Installed a commercial door closer for the front door.

Also rough framed for the washer/dryer and kids clothes shelves/drawers under the 3rd bunk bed.

[Bus'n it]

I haven't checked in for a while, but you are doing amazing! Looks great!

[RamRod4]

Adding some IKEA storage around the bus. Here’s the kids clothes/toys drawers. Also roughed in the plumbing for the washing machine, toilet, shower, and kitchen sink.

[RamRod4]

More built in ikea goodies. Disregard the glossy bluish protective film on the cabinet faces. They are more of a matte green color. Left side is the pantry and right side is some clothes storsagr for my wife and I. The middle will be towels or shoes.

[RamRod4]

Finished roughing in the 120vac circuits. I’ll start pulling 12v home runs for my 12v light switches and other misc. stuff.

It’s coming together quickly now. Excited to finish up the rough ins and then move on to hanging black shiplap on the walls.

[DeMac]

Originally Posted by RamRod4

Finished roughing in the 120vac circuits. I’ll start pulling 12v home runs for my 12v light switches and other misc. stuff.

It’s coming together quickly now. Excited to finish up the rough ins and then move on to hanging black shiplap on the walls.

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Nice looking installation.

[RamRod4]

Originally Posted by DeMac

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Nice looking installation.

Thanks DeMac. I usually try to get my wiring routing perfect but being that this panel is mounted under our bed in the “mechanical room” it was hard to get to and not as cleanly installed as I would like.

More to to come.

Our October 22nd deadline is coming up quick