Our Sheelhouse

[RamRod4]

Originally Posted by Native

I think Juliol meant fabricate and sell the delete panels.


I do like them. They are a nice and clean solution to a typical skoolie problem.

If anyone is interested, let me know. I can work up some batch pricing. 1 or 2 wont be very cost effective due to sheet utilization. Batches of 4 or 8 will yield the best price.

[Maligator.]

Another vote for the delete panels, although I'm guessing shipping to alaska would make it cost prohibitive...great job!

[RamRod4]

Window deletes are primed and installed temporarily to check fitment. Today I plan to remove all the delete panels and remaining windows so I can seal everything with Lexel.

Can't decide on whether or not I want to remove the windows/panels completely and run a bead of sealant in the opening and then reinstall the window/panel for the "squish" effect or if I should just seal everything from the outside and smooth the bead over with my finger.

Any input is greatly appreciated.

Here's some pics from yesterday:

[JamesKS]

They build the airplanes at work with sealant between the panels. A complete perimeter squeeze out is required for inspection to pass it. I don't think you want to rely on a sealant from the outside only. Key tip is to put it on super clean, maybe even spread it out with small piece of carboard. Don't put such a big bead that when you fasten the panel, it pillows the panel around the sealant.

[RamRod4]

Originally Posted by JamesKS

They build the airplanes at work with sealant between the panels. A complete perimeter squeeze out is required for inspection to pass it. I don't think you want to rely on a sealant from the outside only. Key tip is to put it on super clean, maybe even spread it out with small piece of carboard. Don't put such a big bead that when you fasten the panel, it pillows the panel around the sealant.

Great advice. Thanks. I was leaning towards the "squish" method just by initial gut feeling but the factory sealant was applied on the exterior only except in the bottom corners where they seemed to have piled it up to fill the sheet metal gap that inevitably leaks right down into the wall cavity.

[rossvtaylor]

If you go for the outside seam seal option, look at the 2-part SEM Dual Mix heavy bodied seam sealer. It's not cheap, but it's a super high quality OEM-used product. The heavy bodied variety stays in place and you can form a nice clean seam which cures quickly. https://www.semproducts.com/product/...roduct-details

[musigenesis]

Those window deletes look great. Is your bus a high-ceiling IC with 29" windows? And if so do you have any deleted windows to spare? I've broken three of mine so far.

[RamRod4]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Those window deletes look great. Is your bus a high-ceiling IC with 29" windows? And if so do you have any deleted windows to spare? I've broken three of mine so far.

The bus does have high ceilings with 29” windows. I broke a few of mine pulling the front windows out to reseal them so once I’ve replaced those and can tell how many extras I have I’ll let you know.

[Romoshka]

Newbie here still bus shopping. Reading posts like these (awesome sharing ramrod) I’m getting so much data. Jotting down on note pad. Lexel is on my pad. Still working on my engine/tranny education so much of that was over my head.

[RamRod4]

Originally Posted by Romoshka

Newbie here still bus shopping. Reading posts like these (awesome sharing ramrod) I’m getting so much data. Jotting down on note pad. Lexel is on my pad. Still working on my engine/tranny education so much of that was over my head.

Don’t take my word as gold haha. I’ve only been on here for a few months and still learning every time I log in. Read as much as you can. Question things. Read again.

Happy hunting and feel free to ask questions.

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by RamRod4

The bus does have high ceilings with 29” windows. I broke a few of mine pulling the front windows out to reseal them so once I’ve replaced those and can tell how many extras I have I’ll let you know.

Very cool, thanks.

[RamRod4]

Started sealing the window deletes last night. I cleaned up all the excess factory sealant and dirt from the window openings using a brass wire wheel on my angle grinder and then blew off any remaining dirt with the compressor. I tried to seal them from the inside using the "squish" method but there were small gaps between the panel and the vertical divider/mullion between the windows so it didn't seal perfectly. Luckily, I tried this only on the first 2 panels as a test. Ended up sealing everything from the outside and also running a fat bead across the bottom before I set the panel in place. This way the bottom is 100% sealed.

Tip: Make sure you pile a bunch of sealant in the bottom corners. This is where (at least on AmTrans) the windows seem to leak. The factory sealant is piled in the corners on some windows more than others and the sheet metal is gapped in each bottom corner of the window opening. This lets water run right into the wall cavity when that sealant is cracked, broken, or just not piled up enough.

Took 4 tubes of Lexel to seal up the back half of the bus. The front half of the bus will be windows that we will be keeping. I have already pulled the windows previously so that they come out easier. Tonight I plan to clean off the windows and window openings with the wire wheel to remove excess sealant and then begin sealing them in the same fashion. This will be weather permitting as Lexel says it shouldn't be applied under 32F. High here today is about 36F.

[RamRod4]

Windows and deletes are installed and sealed. Now onto the floor. I quickly dry fit a couple sheets of 3/4" XPS insulation and a sheet of 19/32 plywood. I ran in a couple of screws just to feel how the floor felt without the furring strips I had originally planned on installing first. It feels plenty sturdy and 5/8 plywood should provide plenty of meat to anchor to as well.

[TJones]

Nice work on the window and flasher panels. I'm a little jealous of your plasma table and brake.

Ted

[RamRod4]

Insulation and subfloor complete.

Materials:

3/4” XPS Foam board
19/32” Plywood
2-3/4” Tek Screws - self drilling wood to metal
Liquid Nails “Project adhesive”

I cut and dry fit all the foam, then pulled it up and applied construction adhesive to the underside and laid it all back down. Then I cut and installed the plywood sheets and anchored them with the Tek screws. I put at least 9 screws in each sheet of plywood. Some got more if there were high spots in order to ensure the final flooring installs without issue. We’ll likely use luxury vinyl plank (LVP).

[JamesKS]

Looks great man, moving right along!

I used the home depot lifeproof LVP. Its a mid level product as far as specs go (wear coat), but I didnt hate installing it.
Its holding up well after 2 years with 3 kids and 2 dogs.

[RamRod4]

Originally Posted by JamesKS

Looks great man, moving right along!

I used the home depot lifeproof LVP. Its a mid level product as far as specs go (wear coat), but I didnt hate installing it.
Its holding up well after 2 years with 3 kids and 2 dogs.

Awesome. Thanks for the recommendation!

[RamRod4]

Got the air intakes removed today. I will be lowering the intake slightly and then sheeting over top of the openings. The outer mesh panels will be sheeted over as well.

To make up for the loss of airflow into the engine compartment I will be cutting out the center of the engine compartment doors and welding in some perforated steel to regain airflow. I’ve seen this down on a few other buses and haven’t heard of any overheating issues. I’ll keep an eye on temps during some road testing and see how it performs.

[Native]

Originally Posted by JamesKS

Looks great man, moving right along!

I used the home depot lifeproof LVP. Its a mid level product as far as specs go (wear coat), but I didnt hate installing it.
Its holding up well after 2 years with 3 kids and 2 dogs.

We used the same product. It has been installed for about 3 years. Still looks great. The only thing is you really have to make sure is to follow the installation proceedure or the locking mechanism will fail. Learned this the hard way on a few pieces.

[RamRod4]

Air intake panels and interior cover plates are next on my list. I designed the intake panels after discovering @TheFlowstateBus on IG. The first pic shows how it was done on their bus during their roof raise. I believe that Skoolie.com did the fabrication work on this bus for them.

I'll provide feedback on how they work as far as cooling goes once I can get a good road test under my belt. I cut, bent, and welded them so here are some pics. They will need notched slightly to retain the factory latch mechanism. Interior cover plates will be coming up next.