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Old 03-21-2016, 02:54 PM   #21
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You fabricate very stout. I like it.

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Old 03-21-2016, 06:11 PM   #22
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Looks good but did I miss something,I didn't see any side bracing or strapping to prevent the sides of the roof from springing out after cutting the ribs. I used 30,000 lbs cargo straps in each windo opening when I did mine.
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Old 03-22-2016, 09:11 AM   #23
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The raise came along nicely. How long did it take you to build your framing, lift, and then reinforce?
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Old 03-22-2016, 09:36 AM   #24
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When I put the new piece in the window posts I put a C clamp on the top and bottom and that brings them back into alignment. It works real good. As far as how long it took I worked off and on for a couple of days. The lifting was done with the long rams. The tubing was just to guide the roof straight up and keep it in place. The lift was not difficult at all. The only problem I had was the one rivet that I missed in the back. When I started the raise and that rivet popped it certainly got my attention. All in all though there were no problems. I'm still welding as my mig went south and I have to finish with my stick welder and it is taking a little longer.
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Old 03-22-2016, 09:44 AM   #25
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How much shifting occurred?
A friend who recently used your method told me that shifting of the roof was very minimal and that its all pretty easy once you commit to doing it.

On another note- have you ever thought of adding an avatar?

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Old 03-22-2016, 11:00 AM   #26
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Beep-Beep!
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Old 03-22-2016, 05:30 PM   #27
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Oh boy that's good. I guess I'll have to try and figure out how to do it. Thanks. There wasn't any shifting because of the guides that I put on, it just went straight up. Any minute amount is corrected when I put the C clamps on the halves of the window posts when putting the tubing in. So far so good. Hey I have an avatar now! Thanks again ECCB. Beep-Beep.
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Old 03-22-2016, 05:56 PM   #28
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I was thinking more along the lines of this:

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Old 03-22-2016, 06:04 PM   #29
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That's good too! I'm planning on having one of those on the bus when its finished. Beep-Beep.
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Old 03-22-2016, 06:14 PM   #30
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Awesome!

I like the REAL one, he has a lizard!
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Old 03-22-2016, 06:17 PM   #31
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Paint the cartoon version on the bus!
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Old 03-22-2016, 06:39 PM   #32
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Looks good I like it
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Old 03-24-2016, 08:18 PM   #33
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Robin97396

Thank you for the compliment. I just like to do things the right way. Wait till you see my wiring. I'm kinda anal about that too. Well, kinda like that about everything I do. That's just me I guess.
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Old 04-03-2016, 06:17 PM   #34
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I finally got all of the tubing welded into the hat channel. I also have the angle iron welded to the tubing and drilled the holes. I got the door removed and I'm working on welding the cross members in to support the floor where the old steps are. More pics soon.
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Old 04-03-2016, 06:49 PM   #35
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How high did you eventually go with it?
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Old 04-03-2016, 07:05 PM   #36
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Roof raise.

My window openings were 24 1/4" high. To get 1/4" under the upper lip I went up 23 1/2" so basically a 2' raise. That was the best way to use 4x8 sheets.
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Old 04-03-2016, 11:50 PM   #37
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Questions:

How much overlap do you have on the top and bottom edges of the new panels to attach them to the bus?

What is your plan for pre drilling rib holes from inside? Will you be using those to save effort when hanging the sheet (clecos?)?

What's your thought on the transition from high to low roof? I did a pendantic slope from one edge to the other on a cut just like yours, but maybe would have done something different now - ran it to the front edge of the bus roof so it was like a lifted eagle roof.

Nice job getting your roof up there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadrunner View Post
My window openings were 24 1/4" high. To get 1/4" under the upper lip I went up 23 1/2" so basically a 2' raise. That was the best way to use 4x8 sheets.
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Old 04-04-2016, 12:35 PM   #38
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Hi aaronsb, thanks for the compliment. I'm planning on putting the panels right on the bottom edge of the window openings and the top will be 1/4" under the upper lip. I have to do the bottom that way because of the rub rail. I will drill additional rivet holes right at the bottom of the ribs and seal it good. When I put the panels in place I will already have the holes in the ribs and just drill through them and through the panels and then rivet them. I'm not sure on the roof slope yet. I may go up one rib on the bottom of the slope. Now you have me thinking about going all the way to the front. hmmmmmm.
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Old 04-16-2016, 07:09 PM   #39
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Just a quick update. Got the door removed and welded some cross members in. Ready to lay the floor in and then cut a piece out of the side where the new door will be and then cover the old door hole. I'll make a door and have a nice storage compartment.
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Old 04-17-2016, 12:37 PM   #40
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I like it. You going to put the new door, mid body, I assume?
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