Pilgrim Days - Page 4

Native · 03-19-2020, 02:50 AM

Nice! I am liking the fold-up extension.

Ronnie · 03-19-2020, 06:02 AM

I would like to add a note about fiberglassing wood. I have found it best to coat the wood, and let that set/dry then put the fiberglass on and wet it out. This way the wood will not soak up the resin and leave the cloth "dry" .

A plywood tank fiberglass useing epoxy resin can work out very well. Very common in boats.

farok · 03-19-2020, 08:06 AM

Very nice! Thanks for sharing! How many layers of cloth/resin did it take to seal up the wood?

DrDanger · 03-22-2020, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Native

Nice! I am liking the fold-up extension.

Thanks! It is coming along pretty quickly, but I am still apparently incapable of welding anything square, flat, and parallel

DrDanger · 03-22-2020, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ronnie

I would like to add a note about fiberglassing wood. I have found it best to coat the wood, and let that set/dry then put the fiberglass on and wet it out. This way the wood will not soak up the resin and leave the cloth "dry" .

A plywood tank fiberglass useing epoxy resin can work out very well. Very common in boats.

Agreed. I coated the wood beforehand, but I think I underestimated just how much resin the wood would suck up. After I saw how the lid set up I definitely coated the bottom and walls of the tank with a lot more resin. Didn't have any issues after that.

DrDanger · 03-22-2020, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by farok

Very nice! Thanks for sharing! How many layers of cloth/resin did it take to seal up the wood?

I used two layers of 7.5oz cloth, per recommendations found on the retailer's website. That is kind of a mid weight cloth I guess, you can get heavier or lighter. It worked well for me, not too stiff or anything. A lighter cloth would have required more layers. As far as the resin goes I ended up using about 2.5 gallons. That was more than I had estimated based on my dimensions and weight of fabric, but also I am a complete novice and was trying to over-do it. The only thing that using more resin hurts is your wallet (and I was only using polyester resin, not the more expensive epoxy resin).

musigenesis · 03-22-2020, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrDanger

I used two layers of 7.5oz cloth, per recommendations found on the retailer's website. That is kind of a mid weight cloth I guess, you can get heavier or lighter. It worked well for me, not too stiff or anything. A lighter cloth would have required more layers. As far as the resin goes I ended up using about 2.5 gallons. That was more than I had estimated based on my dimensions and weight of fabric, but also I am a complete novice and was trying to over-do it. The only thing that using more resin hurts is your wallet (and I was only using polyester resin, not the more expensive epoxy resin).

What did the tank end up costing you altogether (not counting your time)?

Native · 03-23-2020, 12:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrDanger

Thanks! It is coming along pretty quickly, but I am still apparently incapable of welding anything square, flat, and parallel

LOL ... pick two.

Seriously, it can be tough. Clamps, clamps, and more clamps.

Frochevy · 03-23-2020, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Native

LOL ... pick two.

Seriously, it can be tough. Clamps, clamps, and more clamps.

A quick tip to help you square a part up... Remember a weld tack is hot and it shrinks as it cools. So an easy way to square a part is to pull the part out of square and tack on the opposite side.

For example take your plate and lean it to the left and place a tack on the right side. (You want an 1/8" or so gap where you place the tack) This will allow you to tweak the plate back to square before you place a tack on the opposite side to lock it in place.

For square tubing- I push the tube opposite in two directions. Meaning say push the tube away and left. (Rock the tube on the corner that is away and left of you) Then you would tack on the corner closest to the right of you. (There will be an 1/8" or so gap on this corner) This allows you to square the tube in two directions before locking it in place with more tacks.

Let me know if this helps or confuses you more. I could draw something up or take a few pictures to make it more understandable... Good luck!!!

DrDanger · 03-27-2020, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frochevy

A quick tip to help you square a part up... Remember a weld tack is hot and it shrinks as it cools. So an easy way to square a part is to pull the part out of square and tack on the opposite side.

For example take your plate and lean it to the left and place a tack on the right side. (You want an 1/8" or so gap where you place the tack) This will allow you to tweak the plate back to square before you place a tack on the opposite side to lock it in place.

For square tubing- I push the tube opposite in two directions. Meaning say push the tube away and left. (Rock the tube on the corner that is away and left of you) Then you would tack on the corner closest to the right of you. (There will be an 1/8" or so gap on this corner) This allows you to square the tube in two directions before locking it in place with more tacks.

Let me know if this helps or confuses you more. I could draw something up or take a few pictures to make it more understandable... Good luck!!!

Thanks! That makes sense, I think. I'll have to practice to get the hang of it.

DrDanger · 03-27-2020, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by musigenesis

What did the tank end up costing you altogether (not counting your time)?

Depends what you are counting. Here is a general breakdown.
Resin, fabric, chop strand tape, silica = $358
Plywood = $58
Brushes, mixing cups, spreaders, rollers, sooooo many gloves, etc = $100
Not sure about the cost of the frame and mounting hardware, probably around $200

For me it came down to maximizing capacity in a strange shape. In a cost/benefit analysis you could probably find a plastic tank for less than I spent, but it wouldn't fit in the space I needed it to.

DrDanger · 04-03-2020, 09:35 PM

The good people up at the Vermont DMV must be working through the quarantine because I got my plates today!!!

So pumped. Once I get the actual registration stickers (I guess they send that on a different day for some reason) I'll be legit! This means I need to get my act together to finish prep for spray foam.

DrDanger · 04-03-2020, 10:04 PM

There are a lot of downsides to a global pandemic...but the upside for me has been that I've been able to put more work in on the bus. Since the last time I posted an update I have...
Finished up the skylight over the shower and over the former emergency hatch hole

Put the decking on the back and extended the skirt to the bumper

Started roughing-in the electrical

Also, we finished up the grey tank and mounted it a couple of weeks ago, I just hadn't posted a picture of the final result yet so here it is.

DrDanger · 04-03-2020, 10:06 PM

In other news, I got my license plates today! Thanks, Vermont! It only took 2.5 weeks, even in the middle of all this madness. Woot!

Native · 04-03-2020, 11:23 PM

Sounds like you are getting ready to roll! Congratulations on getting legal.

DrDanger · 04-28-2020, 08:16 PM

It's been a while since I have posted an update, I know. I've been able to put in a lot of hours on the bus recently since my wife has been working from home so I was trying to maximize the opportunity.

The big news is that my subfloor is in!

First I laid down 2in of XPS foam. I hemmed and hawed about mechanical fastening to the bus floor. In the end the only put wood to metal at the doorway in the back, around the sunken shower pan, and around the stairwell up front. The rest of the foam is free floating (secured with subfloor adhesive). Then I laid out my route for the hydronic PEX

This is the spiral of death underneath the rear bed/bunk area.

This is the front living room. The aluminum plates are designed to help distribute the heat more evenly across the floor (I have extra if anyone needs some).

Then I laid the OSB subflooring down.

It is finally starting to look like a house! The subfloor was not the most time intensive or difficult part of the build so far, but it felt the best to look at when it was done.

I am planning to drop it off tomorrow to have the walls and ceiling spray foamed. Once that is done it is GO TIME!

plfking · 04-28-2020, 08:59 PM

Nice work!

And every bus needs a Spiral of Death incorporated somewhere in the build.

musigenesis · 04-28-2020, 10:47 PM

Looking great. I assume you carved channels in the foam to run the pex in? Sorry, I can't tell from the pics if they're recessed although I assume they are. How did you cut the grooves for that?

Native · 04-29-2020, 12:33 AM

The hydronics look cool, er hot.

I am still not convinced I want to go with a heated floor. I do plan to have the bus run in warm weather and may never need it.

DrDanger · 04-30-2020, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Looking great. I assume you carved channels in the foam to run the pex in? Sorry, I can't tell from the pics if they're recessed although I assume they are. How did you cut the grooves for that?

Correct. I am using 1/2in PEX, but with the thickness of the PEX itself and the aluminum (it is really only as thick as a beverage can) I had to make a bigger trough with with the router. I think 5/8in might work but it is hard to find a 5/8in round router bit and the 3/4in makes a good enough path with a little bit of room. Actually, now that I think about it, the 3/4in path gave me enough wiggle room for the straight metal plates to fit when my routering wasn't exactly straight...

Just be warned, it turns your bus into a life-sized snow globe...https://www.instagram.com/p/B_bGyWeJu3I/

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