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07-05-2020, 07:29 PM
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#321
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bus-bro
So you loped of a segment of the back roof and you're going to put mini-split compressor units up there. I got to see that in detail. On a RE that last window space is kinda wasted space in the cabin anyway.
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Hopefully you will be seeing the mini-splits on by the end of Summer.
On my first one I used that "wasted space" for storage cabinets. Made for a good bit of storage space but was not very convenient having to sit or stand on the bed to access them.
On this bus I am putting my batteries and electrical in there and the mini-split condensers on top.
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07-09-2020, 04:50 PM
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#322
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 622
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: 3126b 210hp
Rated Cap: 48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve
It is going to be all white to begin with. I have not gotten to the bottom yet. I wanted the top painted before I install windows. It is going well enough that , weather permitting, I may continue with the bottom.
When we get on the road we are going to head down to Phoenix to have murals painted on the bus. Take a look at his work: https://www.arizonamurals.net/commercial
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Hey Steve, what do you know about the cost of these murals?
Thx
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08-28-2020, 09:15 PM
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#323
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meathead
Hey Steve, what do you know about the cost of these murals?
Thx
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We have budgeted $3500
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08-28-2020, 09:17 PM
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#324
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Windows!!!
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08-28-2020, 10:56 PM
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#325
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Kalispell, MT
Posts: 290
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Amtran Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 84
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Wow Steve, that is looking really good!  I sure wish I had been able to continue helping out on your build. I will eventually get further on mine, just not sure when. Going to take some vacation soon but it's probably all going to be spent hunting.
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08-28-2020, 11:16 PM
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#326
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asetechrail
Wow Steve, that is looking really good!  I sure wish I had been able to continue helping out on your build. I will eventually get further on mine, just not sure when. Going to take some vacation soon but it's probably all going to be spent hunting. 
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Hey Kent,
Thanks,. I am feeling pretty good about progress today. I wish you had been able to stick around as well. I enjoyed working with you and really appreciated the help.
When I get to the point that mine is usable I will head over to MT and give a hand with yours.
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09-08-2020, 12:35 AM
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#327
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 778
Year: 1993
Coachwork: 44' Newell Coach
Engine: 8v92T Detroit
Rated Cap: 2 adults and two pigeons
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Nice work! just found your thread. I have a similar bus and I am considering doing a "mild" roof raise to make up for floor and ceiling insulation. Wife wants RV windows anyway so why not raise? I like your idea on using the rear upper deck for mini-splits.
__________________
--Simon
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09-19-2020, 07:21 PM
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#328
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bus'n it
Nice work! just found your thread. I have a similar bus and I am considering doing a "mild" roof raise to make up for floor and ceiling insulation. Wife wants RV windows anyway so why not raise? I like your idea on using the rear upper deck for mini-splits.
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Thank you.
If I were building a "weekender" I would consider going without a roof raise. For full time living it is required. It makes the interior feel so much bigger.
Good luck with your build. Show us some pictures
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09-19-2020, 07:23 PM
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#329
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Solar panels are all mounted. They are SOLID.
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02-03-2021, 06:44 PM
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#330
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve
Thank you.
If I were building a "weekender" I would consider going without a roof raise. For full time living it is required. It makes the interior feel so much bigger.
Good luck with your build. Show us some pictures 
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My husband wants to do only a 10-inch roof raise because he wants to use the interior wall skins to fill in the raised portion, and 10 inches is the max our existing material will allow. I was really wanting the raise to be 16 inches to 20 inches, but he wants to conserve money on the raise. Was a 10 inch raise enough to make it more spacious and less claustrophobic AFTER insulation in the floor and ceiling, subfloor, subceiling, and finished c4iling and floors? I want to do hardwood floors and ceiling and have some cabinets abovethe windows...oh, and hydronic radiant heating in the floor.
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02-03-2021, 06:46 PM
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#331
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 21
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Our roof without sub floors and unfinished ceiling is over 6 foot right now.
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02-03-2021, 06:57 PM
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#332
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tfanous
My husband wants to do only a 10-inch roof raise because he wants to use the interior wall skins to fill in the raised portion, and 10 inches is the max our existing material will allow. I was really wanting the raise to be 16 inches to 20 inches, but he wants to conserve money on the raise. Was a 10 inch raise enough to make it more spacious and less claustrophobic AFTER insulation in the floor and ceiling, subfloor, subceiling, and finished c4iling and floors? I want to do hardwood floors and ceiling and have some cabinets abovethe windows...oh, and hydronic radiant heating in the floor.
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If you look back through my build thread you can get a good idea of what a 10" raise looks like. If you are not raising the floor level much then I think 10" is definitely worth the trouble. I raised the floor (insulated) 2" and the roof 10".
I did have a change in design when my tank order fell apart. I took the tanks that I could get and wound up having to raise the bedroom floor 11" to accommodate the tank. With that, I wouldn't mind if we had gone up 14".
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