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Old 05-07-2018, 01:09 PM   #21
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Damascus, OR
Posts: 606
Year: 2004
Chassis: International
Engine: T444e w/ 2000 Allison Trans
Rated Cap: 35
Welcome and congrats. I was rather fortunate that I haven't needed to use my angle grinder yet as all my seats and heaters came out with no problems. luckily ZERO rust in this bus. Oregon doesn't use salt on the road ways (they are starting a pilot program)
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Old 05-07-2018, 01:11 PM   #22
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
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Year: 1991
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Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moby_Bus View Post
Ya crazy stuff how each one seems to do it differently. Id assume they would all be pretty run of the mill. But oh well. I think we will hold of on titling until we near the end of the project. Hoping to be wrapping things up my March. Minus Solar. This was we can take it and there wont be any issue. I don't feel like throwing something together driving it into town and spending time and money when I can just do it at the end.

Maybe that will change.

@cadillackid - Lets get a beer sometime, I got some questions
sure thing! im always for meeting up!.. im always ouit and about in once of my busses.. (to me they are more like old cars.. i didnt make complete campera out of them.. one is a mobile hardware / software DEV lab.. and the other is still fully seated.. social / party / daily driver / grocery-getter.

-Christopher
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Old 05-07-2018, 01:16 PM   #23
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 21
Year: 1990
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Navistar
Engine: International harvester DT446
Rated Cap: 72
[QUOTE=Rovobay;267935]Welcome and congrats. I was rather fortunate that I haven't needed to use my angle grinder yet as all my seats and heaters came out with no problems. luckily ZERO rust in this bus. Oregon doesn't use salt on the road ways (they are starting a pilot program)[/QUOTE

Which part of OR I travel to Yamhill slot to see family. I have a spray in liner coating the chasie. Good and bad I'd say
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Old 05-13-2018, 09:15 PM   #24
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 21
Year: 1990
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Navistar
Engine: International harvester DT446
Rated Cap: 72
Questions about some floor rust

Not a lot happen with Moby this past week. We are all up in the air about our floor plan - trying to work all the water plumbing one wall. along with where to put the bathroom - half over wheel well? I was thinking put it forward like starting right behind the diver seat, could use some floor plan input. We have decided we are going to sand the floor smooth of surface rust then paint with Rust-O-leum protective paint.

So first question what should be done about the rust in 3 images? Has anyone dealt with this before? what should I do and what can be done.
*location is both front and back of the wheel well hump

I will be checking the condition next week to get a better idea of how bad it is. As it looked and felt today. Very firm around the edge of the rust . Does not appear to go strait through. and doesn't seem to be structural. I looks like o some of the flooring metal has just rusted. not sure if its kicking up water due to the wheel wells form the outside. Or it came from the inside

My idea was to fill with a JB weld type materiel . then cut a patch to shape, attach thin gauge metal with a liquid nails type adhesive.

Along that same line what have you all used to fill in bolt holes in the floor?? I think everyone wants something long lasting, and that will not fail with exposure with road salt and water over time. Im thinking a Alex Plus sealant from homedepo. We use it alot at work for outdoor conditions on house windows. holds up to cleaning chemicals, wind rain, UV, or is there a sealant like JB weld for a caulk gun.

the last picture is of the very last window inside metal fame rail, it has probably from a leaky window.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg image (2).jpg (47.7 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg image (3).jpg (43.8 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg image.jpg (28.6 KB, 3 views)
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Old 05-13-2018, 10:49 PM   #25
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Damascus, OR
Posts: 606
Year: 2004
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Engine: T444e w/ 2000 Allison Trans
Rated Cap: 35
[QUOTE=Moby_Bus;267937]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rovobay View Post
Welcome and congrats. I was rather fortunate that I haven't needed to use my angle grinder yet as all my seats and heaters came out with no problems. luckily ZERO rust in this bus. Oregon doesn't use salt on the road ways (they are starting a pilot program)[/QUOTE

Which part of OR I travel to Yamhill slot to see family. I have a spray in liner coating the chasie. Good and bad I'd say
SE Portland metro area. Clackamas County
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Old 06-17-2018, 02:31 PM   #26
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 21
Year: 1990
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Engine: International harvester DT446
Rated Cap: 72
Roof Panel & Floor grinding

A little over two weeks ago we started on the task of removing the metal ceiling panels. Our initial plan was to save them if possible to replace and save that cost of roofing and the high. It didn't happen.

Things that didn't work to get the roof out. The roof consisted of 8 panels with 10 rows of bolts. each row had 62 which is 600 bolts.

1. Gwen went over with small impact driver bolts 6 came out.

2. Bill went over with big impact driver bolts 4 came out

3. Tried using the Big drill and bits to drill off bolt heads. Went through 5 drill bits and got maybe 10 more bolts out.

4. Switched to the ANGLE GRINDER with a cutting disk, put a notch in each bolt. all 600 of them. Then come back through with a chisel and 2lb hammer and whacked off all the bolt heads.

PRO TIP - get a chisel with a hand guard, save your thumb the pain. Also don't do Arm at the gym the day before this.

Once all the bolts had been removed we proceeded to remove the metal roofing panel. Then did not come out very easy for use. We used a crow bar to them started and then used a set of Large visescrip pliers to lock on the edge and pull then off the 1/8 or so bolt body. So pulled down with little work. While others where a real struggle. All in all came down pretty fast. We removed the batting style fiberglass insulation also.

We are removing the lights and just capping the wire off - I'm not taking the risk of cutting a wire and it making the whole bus not work. And yes that is extreme. But things like that happen to me. So better safe then sorry - The remaining wires in the ceiling will be sprayed into place with plasti-dip spraypaint to hold them into place for insulation.


FlOOR

Good news. We scored 200 of a flooring in a color and grain Gwen and I both like for only 65 cents a SQ.FT . This is more then enough to do our walk ways. The bath room we are unsure about the flooring still - Tile maybe? Thoughts anyone? - I would put down 1x1ft tiles of some kind. that way there would be less tile = less seams to worry abut. But not sure.

We had what I deemed a just fine amount of surface rust once we removed the plywood and rubber matting flooring. It is from what I assume is peoples shoes being wet and getting under the mats where ever they sat. You could see where it was more prominent then say the walk way - Very interesting. So we got another angle grinder and about 10 flapper disks of 60 grit from WalMart - there stuff was the cheapest and worked just as well when used side by side with products purchased from Home-Depo, Tractor Supply and others. Get the contractors pack of cutting disks from Menards 5 for 5. So we ground down from just behind the Drivers seat the very back of the Bus. getting our problem areas extra clean in perpetration for fixing next month. Once the floors where ground down we busted out the air compressor and spray handle and got to dusting out the bus. Removing all the rust dust and making sure to spray out around the drivers area. windows roof and the side panels. I blew out alot of extra fiber glass I didn't know we had missed the first go around. After a few rounds of using the air hose we switched over to the shop Vac and sucked out the side walls and any little thing along the edges and in the back corners where it had all collected. A

After this we used the hose to spray the bus floor and sides out. Just to get the last little bit and anything else lefter over. While the floor was drying we went to HomeDepo to Get some Phosphate was. It was labeled as a cleaner and etcher - Check out attached picture for what it looks like. also got our flooring on clearance during this trip.

Made it back to the Bus. Applied phosphate wash with cheap-O mop. I used the whole bottle. Started at the back and worked my to the front. I guess the Idea with is to let it dry slowly. So we put it on at about 9pm closed most the windows and front door. It was mostly all dried up when I check on it at 7am. I did spray the bus out any remaining wash and to remove the sediment it produces. I will be doing one more wash before we paint. And will allow for a full 24hr dry time. Or just open all the doors and windows.

But the floors looks pretty darn good. no more surface rust which is the goal.
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