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Old 10-14-2017, 12:56 PM   #61
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Looks nice.. That is my next step, the ceiling.
I am soooo close to ceiling work. I can't wait !!!! Where is your build page? Will you do wood, as well? I'm toying with doing mine in aromatic Cedar car siding.

I hope mine looks as nice as his.

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Old 10-14-2017, 01:21 PM   #62
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Cedar carsiding would be sweet rusty. Sure it will look amazing. Let me know if you need help, I'm not far from you. Plus, been lookin for a reason to head down that way and hit owl hardwood. Get some material for my dash
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Old 10-14-2017, 01:52 PM   #63
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Cedar carsiding would be sweet rusty. Sure it will look amazing. Let me know if you need help, I'm not far from you. Plus, been lookin for a reason to head down that way and hit owl hardwood. Get some material for my dash
I'm not familiar with Owl, but I can guess very pricey? I deal with a local lumber-mill - Dan Daly out in Morris if it's a local species your after. S1S is much cheaper than those places with barcodes on the wood.

apologies for the mini-hijack, Az.
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Old 10-14-2017, 09:12 PM   #64
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I am soooo close to ceiling work. I can't wait !!!! Where is your build page? Will you do wood, as well? I'm toying with doing mine in aromatic Cedar car siding.

I hope mine looks as nice as his.
I bought my bus gutted. So far I cleaned it and camped in it for a week, it's a big metal tent right now. It is about 200 miles away on some vacation property so I have to take trips to work on it. Progress will be slow due to the distance away.
I will make a build thread when I name the bus and get a couple of things done. It has lots of charterer so I am sure a name will develop fairly soon.

I am think of doing wood very similar to Aztoms bus.
On my ceiling so far I am thinking of cutting ¾ ply-board - 2” strips, then screwing a thin ply board (1/4” 3/8" ?) to that. Full sheets down the middle and smaller pieces on the curved sides. I am thinking this because it is the cheapest wood that is not OSB around here.

Some salvaged wood or a good deal on something would change my mind. I would do higher grade wood like ceder if it happened to work out.

It would be nice to sit back under a cedar wood ceiling.
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Old 10-14-2017, 09:24 PM   #65
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We used 5/16 pine tongue and groove from Lowe's it's pretty thin but it seems to be doing it job of holding in the insulation.

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Old 10-15-2017, 02:29 AM   #66
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i got lazy and just used 3/8 plywood and then glued paneling to it. it was terribly frustrating and difficult to bend 3/8 plywood around that tight radius in the corner though. if i had to do it again id use 1/4 inch instead.

Your ceiling looks great. that was my second choice for how to do it but for me it would have been too much wood. i am however going to do it and stain it in my bedroom area. are you leaving it that colour or are you staining it aswell?
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Old 10-15-2017, 02:39 AM   #67
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i got lazy and just used 3/8 plywood and then glued paneling to it.
I don't think you are using that word right: lazy . That looks like a labor of love. Looks wonderful !

That's the fun of checking-out other's builds & stealing ideas/tips.

I got one big tip for all you other soon to be roofers: Stain and seal that wood BEFORE you put it up. It is sooooo much easier to finish the wood on sawhorses vs inside enclosed space, overhead. Touch-up as needed.
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Old 10-15-2017, 08:50 AM   #68
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We used 5/16 pine tongue and groove from Lowe's it's pretty thin but it seems to be doing it job of holding in the insulation.
Did you screw the wood onto the metal ribs ? What kind of screws did you use ?
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Old 10-15-2017, 09:24 AM   #69
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We are going to stain we just don't know how dark yet. Your prob right it would have been easier to stain it before putting up. We were excited to see the progress though so we went for it.

We screwed it right to the ribs using wood to metal self tapping screws. They worked well.

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Old 10-15-2017, 09:49 AM   #70
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Did you screw the wood onto the metal ribs ? What kind of screws did you use ?
Others still recommend using a ply furring strip on the metal rib, then screwing to that to prevent moisture going to the screw heads. As always, if you can spare the headroom.
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Old 10-15-2017, 10:00 AM   #71
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Others still recommend using a ply furring strip on the metal rib, then screwing to that to prevent moisture going to the screw heads. As always, if you can spare the headroom.
I can spare the head room. So far I am thinking the furring strips for the plywood sheets so I will get a nice line of screws down. Also dead air space for insulation.

I never though of the screw heads getting moisture but it makes sense.
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Old 10-22-2017, 05:34 PM   #72
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We got the floor done

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Old 10-22-2017, 05:37 PM   #73
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NICE floor!
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Old 10-22-2017, 06:22 PM   #74
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We got the floor done

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Wowsers, Cuz!

That's freakin' gorgeous!!!

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Old 10-22-2017, 07:24 PM   #75
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Now all you need is some bowling shoes. Street wear not allowed.
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Old 10-22-2017, 07:44 PM   #76
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This reminds me..... Don't use liquid nails, the movement will cause it to fail. I used it on some minor wood trim on a vertical surface.
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Old 11-06-2017, 10:21 PM   #77
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We started framing! We framed the back wall which will be the garage and installed the AC unit. We were able to frame in the back bed and start on the bunks. So far it's coming along well.

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Old 11-06-2017, 10:23 PM   #78
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Wowser!... a Woody! Looking good.
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Old 11-09-2017, 05:25 AM   #79
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Looks great! Is this traffic master Lakeshore Pecan? It's the flooring I'm going with.

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Old 11-09-2017, 12:30 PM   #80
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We got trafficmaster rustic maple honeytone

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