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05-17-2018, 10:29 AM
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#1
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Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Kalispell, Montana
Posts: 102
Year: 1993
Chassis: MD463
Engine: DT466
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Removing Side Panel Question!
I could use some ideas removing the side panels. The panel is tack welded to the this flange lip which is rivited to the exterior of the bus.
Since there will be trim to hold the windows in, I am thinking about just cutting the lip off. I just don't want to have to take the trim on the outside of the bus off.
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05-17-2018, 12:07 PM
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#2
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Frisco, Texas
Posts: 829
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: Dt466e
Rated Cap: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yaakbus
I could use some ideas removing the side panels. The panel is tack welded to the this flange lip which is rivited to the exterior of the bus.
Since there will be trim to hold the windows in, I am thinking about just cutting the lip off. I just don't want to have to take the trim on the outside of the bus off.
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Man I'm glad my thomas had screws. I just cut it a couple inches below the window line. Thats what most people do
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05-17-2018, 06:30 PM
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#3
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Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Kalispell, Montana
Posts: 102
Year: 1993
Chassis: MD463
Engine: DT466
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Yeah dude it was perplexing for sure. Some people have said to bend the panel and use the air chisel, some suggest the grinder, some suggested drill all the spot welds. I am still not positive what I am going to do but need to figure it out by tomorrow haha.
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07-31-2018, 03:41 PM
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#4
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New Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 4
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Hey y’all,
Wondering how this turned out? I’m facing the same dilemma now. I have screws instead of rivets, on the ceiling and side panels, but the side panels are welded as you described just below the window. I’m figuring I’m gonna need to cut it below the lip, but am unsure if it’ll be a grinder or a drill... let me know what you used and how it turned out!
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07-31-2018, 03:56 PM
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#5
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phonikaa
Hey y’all,
Wondering how this turned out? I’m facing the same dilemma now. I have screws instead of rivets, on the ceiling and side panels, but the side panels are welded as you described just below the window. I’m figuring I’m gonna need to cut it below the lip, but am unsure if it’ll be a grinder or a drill... let me know what you used and how it turned out!
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There are many jobs I've done myself that when I got through i told myself I would gladly have paid someone x number of dollars to that. I counted the holes to be drilled, 20 in each window, 28 windows, 560 holes. I instead bought a Genesis (had to be the bus model ) metal shears. Takes about 2 minutes to zip off each side. Cost $46, but I'll use it more in this build and others.
https://www.amazon.com/Genesis-GES40.../dp/B01LZ7HCRC
I could have removed all the seats by myself for free, I gladly paid $190 to have the hired kid do all the work in the day sun.
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07-31-2018, 03:57 PM
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#6
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: GA
Posts: 129
Year: 1998
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
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one of the only times i'm glad have rivets instead of screws..... I've seen people just cut them just below the window with a angle grinder and move on. If you choose to remove the windows to reseal or to remove completely i see that as an chance to clean up whats left.
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07-31-2018, 04:05 PM
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#7
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tryonis
one of the only times i'm glad have rivets instead of screws..... I've seen people just cut them just below the window with a angle grinder and move on. If you choose to remove the windows to reseal or to remove completely i see that as an chance to clean up whats left.
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Tell me again how rivets are easier to remove than a screw? You can't drive the mandrel out and then shear the head with an air chisel in 2 seconds.
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07-31-2018, 04:25 PM
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#8
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: GA
Posts: 129
Year: 1998
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
Tell me again how rivets are easier to remove than a screw? You can't drive the mandrel out and then shear the head with an air chisel in 2 seconds.
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I am referring to i just had rivets and not screwed and welded on the side panels.
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07-31-2018, 04:51 PM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phonikaa
Hey y’all,
Wondering how this turned out? I’m facing the same dilemma now. I have screws instead of rivets, on the ceiling and side panels, but the side panels are welded as you described just below the window. I’m figuring I’m gonna need to cut it below the lip, but am unsure if it’ll be a grinder or a drill... let me know what you used and how it turned out!
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I just used an air hammer with a chisel bit and sheared that junk right off. Easy peasy.
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07-31-2018, 04:52 PM
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#10
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
Tell me again how rivets are easier to remove than a screw? You can't drive the mandrel out and then shear the head with an air chisel in 2 seconds.
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I can.
Sorta. You drive out all the mandrels first in one fell swoop, then you come back with the chisel.
I can do a whole bus in a couple hours now.
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07-31-2018, 04:59 PM
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#11
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
I can.
Sorta. You drive out all the mandrels first in one fell swoop, then you come back with the chisel.
I can do a whole bus in a couple hours now.
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No you can't, it take more than 2 seconds to change tools.Screws take half the time. Quit trying to rationalize what you have to deal with. Face it screws are just plain easier to remove, anyone who thinks differently has no common sense.
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07-31-2018, 05:01 PM
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#12
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
No you can't, it take more than 2 seconds to change tools.Screws take half the time. Quit trying to rationalize what you have to deal with. Face it screws are just plain easier to remove, anyone who thinks differently has no common sense.
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You only use one tool at a time. A pointy bit then a chisel bit. Takes me a few seconds to change them out.
Screws are usually easier. But rivets aren't a horrible scary thing like most folks on here seem to think. All three buses sitting at my "bus yard" right now are screwed together. But for the folks out there with rivets its not some un-doable feat to shear em all off in a couple hours.
No reason to start getting insulting, man. Its just fastener removal. Relax, man.
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07-31-2018, 05:04 PM
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#13
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
You only use one tool at a time. A pointy bit then a chisel bit. Takes me a few seconds to change them out.
Screws are usually easier. But rivets aren't a horrible scary thing like most folks on here seem to think. All three buses sitting at my "bus yard" right now are screwed together. But for the folks out there with rivets its not some un-doable feat to shear em all off in a couple hours.
No reason to start getting insulting, man. Its just fastener removal. Relax, man.
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You win.
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07-31-2018, 05:05 PM
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#14
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
You win.
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Nah, we BOTH do. Hhaha!!
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07-31-2018, 05:51 PM
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#15
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: GA
Posts: 129
Year: 1998
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
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WTF happened to this post? i was referring to welded side panels and screws vs just rivets.
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07-31-2018, 05:57 PM
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#16
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tryonis
WTF happened to this post? i was referring to welded side panels and screws vs just rivets.
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The panels under the windows inside the bus, right?
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07-31-2018, 08:19 PM
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#17
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: N.C.
Posts: 1,136
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
I can.
Sorta. You drive out all the mandrels first in one fell swoop, then you come back with the chisel.
I can do a whole bus in a couple hours now.
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I can, and did, also.
Talk about lack of common sense.....what kind of moron would advocate punching one mandrel, then switching to a chisel to shear, then changing back to punch for the next rivet?
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07-31-2018, 10:31 PM
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#18
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plfking
I can, and did, also.
Talk about lack of common sense.....what kind of moron would advocate punching one mandrel, then switching to a chisel to shear, then changing back to punch for the next rivet?
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I can remove a screw in the same time as it takes you to do one of the processes with your tools. Whether you do all the mandrels first, and then all the rivet heads with a chisel, you have spent time doing 2 processes. Common sense tells me one step is faster than two.
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08-01-2018, 10:34 AM
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#19
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Over the past couple of years I have stripped the interiors of both Thomas and Bluebird buses.
The Thomas had screws and I used my Makita impact driver.
The Bluebird had rivets and I used my air chisel as described in this thread. I punched out the mandrels on a row of rivets then followed with the modified chisel.
For ME the screws used in the Thomas proved to be quicker and easier to remove than the rivets in the Bluebird.
However, I had to cut the top of the wall panels in the Thomas to get them out. This was not necessary on the Bluebird. That offset the time/ease of removing the screws.
Just my $0.02
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08-01-2018, 01:24 PM
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#20
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve
Over the past couple of years I have stripped the interiors of both Thomas and Bluebird buses.
The Thomas had screws and I used my Makita impact driver.
The Bluebird had rivets and I used my air chisel as described in this thread. I punched out the mandrels on a row of rivets then followed with the modified chisel.
For ME the screws used in the Thomas proved to be quicker and easier to remove than the rivets in the Bluebird.
However, I had to cut the top of the wall panels in the Thomas to get them out. This was not necessary on the Bluebird. That offset the time/ease of removing the screws.
Just my $0.02
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Bottom line is I wouldn't choose one bus over the other based on if its got screws or rivets. Either can be easily overcome with a few tools.
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