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04-13-2017, 01:10 PM
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#881
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 703
Year: 1995
Engine: DT408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
I was REALLY amazed at how the 10" we went on RYO Opened that bus up.. having been inside that bus before , during , and after the raise.. its really a transformation.. and looking at the bus, that raise amount doesnt make the bus cumbersome or "top-heavy".. I wouldnt want to go more than 18".. though there are many here that have gone 24-36" even with success. so literally the sky is the limit..
seems to me the way EC did it was the way to go... started with 8".. then he walked around the bus and felt it out... then we turned the screws another 2" and walked around the bus and felt it out..
I think at some point, you also reach that spot where it just feels right.. you turn the screws, stop, and feel, then go another 2".. etc.. I LOVE his approach to it..
-Christopher
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Yep. One other consideration if I raise mine is the countertop backsplash height and fitting my RV windows under the drip rail.
__________________
I am an sojourner in the earth; hide not Your Commandments from me. Psalm 119:19
Here is the patience of the saints; here are the ones keeping the commandments of YAHWEH, and the faith of Yahshua. Rev. 14:12
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04-13-2017, 01:36 PM
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#882
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sojourner
Yep. One other consideration if I raise mine is the countertop backsplash height and fitting my RV windows under the drip rail.
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IF you have a Thomas, you'll have to get more creative with your raise if you choose to go that route.
Is that a Thomas or an AmTran?
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04-13-2017, 07:10 PM
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#883
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 703
Year: 1995
Engine: DT408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
IF you have a Thomas, you'll have to get more creative with your raise if you choose to go that route.
Is that a Thomas or an AmTran?
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We have the same buses. Mine's a 1995 AmTran.
__________________
I am an sojourner in the earth; hide not Your Commandments from me. Psalm 119:19
Here is the patience of the saints; here are the ones keeping the commandments of YAHWEH, and the faith of Yahshua. Rev. 14:12
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04-13-2017, 07:11 PM
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#884
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sojourner
We have the same buses. Mine's a 1995 AmTran.
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Oh ok, I kinda thought so, but in your pic, it sorta looks like a Thomas grille. Maybe I just need a new RX for my glasses.
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04-13-2017, 07:31 PM
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#885
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 703
Year: 1995
Engine: DT408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
Oh ok, I kinda thought so, but in your pic, it sorta looks like a Thomas grille. Maybe I just need a new RX for my glasses.
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Not sure if you're talking about the grill in my avitar (the black area above the air slots is where the word "GENESIS" is) or the one I made. I like the one I made MUCH better .
__________________
I am an sojourner in the earth; hide not Your Commandments from me. Psalm 119:19
Here is the patience of the saints; here are the ones keeping the commandments of YAHWEH, and the faith of Yahshua. Rev. 14:12
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05-04-2017, 08:21 AM
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#886
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
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I don't see any rivets in the new metal so I'm guessing it's all weld and no rivets.
1) Did Ed weld the entire seam or just spot weld? Looks like he at least started with just spot welding.
2) What about your side skins; will they be welded or riveted?
3) You mentioned sealing somewhere in here. What are you sealing and what are you using? Doesn't look like you have any empty rivet holes so it's not that.
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05-04-2017, 12:56 PM
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#887
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob
I don't see any rivets in the new metal so I'm guessing it's all weld and no rivets.
1) Did Ed weld the entire seam or just spot weld? Looks like he at least started with just spot welding.
2) What about your side skins; will they be welded or riveted?
3) You mentioned sealing somewhere in here. What are you sealing and what are you using? Doesn't look like you have any empty rivet holes so it's not that.
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1- stitch welded. If we'd tried riveting or anything else it would've buckled and deformed. the way it is its NICE looking, and SOLID.
2- side skins will be riveted.
3- Using the high grade sealant that MuddaEarth used on his transition piece. Basically just seal up all the seams and stuff to make SURE it doesn't leak at all.
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05-04-2017, 01:15 PM
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#888
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
1- stitch welded.
3- Using the high grade sealant that MuddaEarth used on his transition piece. Basically just seal up all the seams and stuff to make SURE it doesn't leak at all.
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1. Gotta look that up. I don't knwo what stitch means.
3. I thought he welded the framing pieces but riveted everything else including the transitions.
3b. You putting in a fancy sky light/window like his? If it'll work and I can get a couple cheap, I'm thinking the moon roof out of my TDI. Those things are huge (natural lighting) in place of the hatches.
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05-04-2017, 01:55 PM
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#889
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,753
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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if you seal it like you did the hatch on shortie you shouldnt have leaks.. love your layered approach to the sealant.
-Christopher
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05-04-2017, 02:05 PM
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#890
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
1- stitch welded. If we'd tried riveting or anything else it would've buckled and deformed. the way it is its NICE looking, and SOLID.
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Looked it up. Same as spot welding in my book. A spot here and a spot there. The spots might be an inch or 2 long but not a continuous weld.
Did he butt weld the sheets together on the outside and then weld to the flange on the inside? I saw the pic of him and the welder on the roof. Probably safe to assume he wasn't just posing for a pic.
Also are the cross supports circled in the attached part of the roof raise that you added or are they OEM bus? I haven't taken any of my ceiling panels down yet.
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05-04-2017, 03:39 PM
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#891
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob
1. Gotta look that up. I don't knwo what stitch means.
3. I thought he welded the framing pieces but riveted everything else including the transitions.
3b. You putting in a fancy sky light/window like his? If it'll work and I can get a couple cheap, I'm thinking the moon roof out of my TDI. Those things are huge (natural lighting) in place of the hatches.
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I don't want the skylight. Too tough to get right, and I don't need any new leaks. Transition looks good, I'm not messing with it. I saw Mudda earth used rivets on the middle but they left buckling in his cap, so Ihad eddie jsut stitch weld em.
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05-04-2017, 03:41 PM
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#892
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob
Looked it up. Same as spot welding in my book. A spot here and a spot there. The spots might be an inch or 2 long but not a continuous weld.
Did he butt weld the sheets together on the outside and then weld to the flange on the inside? I saw the pic of him and the welder on the roof. Probably safe to assume he wasn't just posing for a pic.
Also are the cross supports circled in the attached part of the roof raise that you added or are they OEM bus? I haven't taken any of my ceiling panels down yet.
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No just stitch welded the pieces on one by one.
Cross supports are factory. They're under your ceilings.
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05-05-2017, 07:32 AM
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#893
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
I don't want the skylight. Too tough to get right, and I don't need any new leaks. Transition looks good, I'm not messing with it. I saw Mudda earth used rivets on the middle but they left buckling in his cap, so Ihad eddie jsut stitch weld em.
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Ah, I don't think he mentioned that in the video or post production.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
No just stitch welded the pieces on one by one.
Cross supports are factory. They're under your ceilings.
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I knew the ribs were there but didn't know it had any longitudial stuff in there.
The guy I called yesterday that said I could have some 18 gauge scrap didn't have any 18 gauge. So he gave me some 16 gauge stuff. That would be heavy for skins. Zombie death machine heavy!! Anywho, he went to a stack leaning against the wall and pulls out some 2'x3' pieces. Those aren't scrap, I can make all kinds of stuff out of that!! Hell I've got some rust holes in my floor. I'll have to see if he's will to "scrap" any more. THere were 10~15 sheets there. I could redo half my floor.
Oh and I was talking to him about hat channels. He can do stuff as narrow as 3/4" on the bends.
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05-22-2017, 09:33 AM
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#894
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Almost There
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Mount Victory, OH
Posts: 85
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Very awesome roof raise. I like the look of your raise but since you only raised it 10-12" I forget, looks like you could have raised the whole roof and saved yourself a bunch of time and energy not doing the transition. It turned out awesome by the way! When I do mine I want to take advantage of going up. Also I have heard if you do a somewhere around 22" raise you don't have to cut your metal length wise and have scrap left over. I would like a finished roof height with solar panels around 12'-6 - 13'. No rooftop ac but probably a mini split.
Just how important is it to level the bus. I know you don't want any extreme situations like parking on a hill but, when you raise it it will follow where you want it to go. I mean when you extend your hat channels they all will center themselves correct?
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05-22-2017, 09:51 AM
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#895
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superduty_59
Very awesome roof raise. I like the look of your raise but since you only raised it 10-12" I forget, looks like you could have raised the whole roof and saved yourself a bunch of time and energy not doing the transition. It turned out awesome by the way! When I do mine I want to take advantage of going up. Also I have heard if you do a somewhere around 22" raise you don't have to cut your metal length wise and have scrap left over. I would like a finished roof height with solar panels around 12'-6 - 13'. No rooftop ac but probably a mini split.
Just how important is it to level the bus. I know you don't want any extreme situations like parking on a hill but, when you raise it it will follow where you want it to go. I mean when you extend your hat channels they all will center themselves correct?
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THANKS!
Its good to get the bus as level as you can. Don't totally obsess, but make sure you find flat, level ground or preferably concrete slab like I did.
I prefer the look of the transition vs the huge forehead look or raising the entire roof. YMMV.
I don't have to worry about scrap being left over when I get my steel paneling for the sides. I get most of my steel for free and my step dad can sheer it to any size I want.
The ten inches was more than enough for what we were going for. These buses are already tall and top heavy, so I chose to err on the side of restraint.
I do plan on driving it around the state and maybe some of the southeast.
12'6 will limit some of the places you can go, if lots of travel are in your plans.
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05-22-2017, 12:45 PM
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#896
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,753
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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having been there on the raise.. it really was amazing to feel the bus transform as we all turned the screws... 10" doesnt sound like a lot but sure does feel like it once the roof is up...
I think EC had the perfect idea, build the apparatus to go as high as 18-24. . but stop every 2" and walk the bus and get a feel for it... then turn another 2".. till it just feels right...
-Christopher
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05-22-2017, 05:59 PM
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#897
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Almost There
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Mount Victory, OH
Posts: 85
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Looks great and can't wait for more updates! ECCB I saw you on d redman's video at your gathering. That shorty is awesome! Where you in the video too Chris?
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05-22-2017, 08:15 PM
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#898
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,753
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superduty_59
Looks great and can't wait for more updates! ECCB I saw you on d redman's video at your gathering. That shorty is awesome! Where you in the video too Chris?
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in the roof raise I think I was in there turnong a screw in the back of the bus..
in dred's video my bright red Bus is in there but not sure I am..
-Christopher
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05-23-2017, 08:46 AM
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#899
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: ...little north of Toronto Ontario
Posts: 606
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomsass
Chassis: FreightShaker
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 5 speed
Rated Cap: 2 ATV's and friends
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Comin' along quite nicely CB!
Time lapse vid is cool.....
Man does time fly, I've got 15 pages of unread posts!
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05-23-2017, 09:23 AM
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#900
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
I prefer the look of the transition vs the huge forehead look or raising the entire roof. YMMV.
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Aside from Nat's have you seen any full roof raises? There was the AZ or NM guy I was following for awhile. I think he was going to 13'6", triple bunks, or some such. Way too much.
Have you seen any full roofs in person?
Just wondering if it would make life easier. I don't know that I have a problem with the look or not.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
having been there on the raise.. it really was amazing to feel the bus transform as we all turned the screws... 10" doesnt sound like a lot but sure does feel like it once the roof is up...
I think EC had the perfect idea, build the apparatus to go as high as 18-24. . but stop every 2" and walk the bus and get a feel for it... then turn another 2".. till it just feels right...
-Christopher
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Did you guys give it a good shake every 2" inches just for the sway? I'm guessing since it was on blocks it wouldn't do much good.
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