RomaniGypsy's 2004 IC CE300 "Onward" - simple build

[RomaniGypsy]

By "simple", I mean "inexpensive and hopefully quick". No, it won't look fancy, but it will serve the purpose. In the end, it will hopefully look like a hippie bus, outside and inside. (No, not a commercialized, over the top hippie bus... more along the lines of the original Furthur, though without the additions that were legal then but are not now. We're not building it based upon Furthur, but the simplicity of the original Furthur will give you an idea of how simple ours is likely to be.)

"Onward" is a 2004 IC CE300 "dog nose", with DT466E, AD2000, 12 windows, and 72 passenger capacity.

As of today, all but three rows of seats are out (I'm saving some for passengers - who wouldn't want to ride on a hippie bus?), and I have removed the floor rubber up to the remaining seats as well as random pieces of metal and padded trim on the inside.

My questions as of this moment are:

1) What's a good INTERIOR paint that I could use, to cover the aluminum panels on the sides and possibly the roof?

2) What's a good EXTERIOR paint for a bus?

3) Is there such a thing as a really comfortable, furniture-style seat, with at least a reclining back if not being a full recliner (which, admittedly, would be AWESOME), that is safe for vehicular travel (read: won't be reduced to splinters in a wreck) and could be installed into a bus? I'm sure I will be doing most of the driving, and I know my wife would love to sit in something like this.

4) Do any of y'all, who live relatively close by, have another one of the small seats from the rearmost row near the emergency exit, for this bus? I'd like to get one, especially if I can't find the type of seat I asked for in question 3.

5) What extra strengthening considerations do I have to make for what I install in the bus, that I wouldn't have to worry about if I were building and installing the same things in a sticks-and-bricks house?

6) Any of y'all know anyone who might want bus seats?

7) EXTRA CREDIT: Was there a better / more efficient way of getting that floor rubber out, than using a hammer and chisel? The stuff refused to pull up in large pieces, and for most of it, I felt like the only way I could separate it from the plywood was to chisel it out.

[EastCoastCB]

for paint- AVOID water based latex house-type paints!!!
Rusto with a hardener and thinned a bit will lay down quick and easy and will look amazing compared to the house stuff. Inside or out.

this is latex house paint applied to a bus that was even sanded first-


humidity makes it bubble and on wet mornings you can pop bubbles of condensation trapped behind the "paint".

[RomaniGypsy]

EastCoastCB - You said "Rusto with a hardener and thinned a bit". That seems to be two competing factors. What would be so bad about applying the Rust-oleum paint as it is, straight out of the can?

And, if it really is best to use a hardener and a thinner, I think I grasp the concept of paint thinner, but I don't recall ever seeing a container of paint hardener. How would you recommend I mix everything?

[Ninjakitty]

I'm not sure on the mix ratio, but Tractor supply has hardener by the paint.

[RomaniGypsy]

I'm unclear on why I'd need hardener, compared to going straight from the can.

[Johnny Mullet]

It will harden on it's own but takes time to completely dry.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by RomaniGypsy

EastCoastCB - You said "Rusto with a hardener and thinned a bit". That seems to be two competing factors. What would be so bad about applying the Rust-oleum paint as it is, straight out of the can?

And, if it really is best to use a hardener and a thinner, I think I grasp the concept of paint thinner, but I don't recall ever seeing a container of paint hardener. How would you recommend I mix everything?

I thin it just a little bit, makes it go on better and looks better. The can will have the instructions to thin it.
You can put it on straight, but a bit of thinner and hardener will really make it look and last the best.
The ratios are on the product packaging.

Tractor supply has catalyst hardener, and Lowes has a vaspar version but I've not seen it in stores it may be an online order only item.

[RomaniGypsy]

Originally Posted by Johnny Mullet

It will harden on it's own but takes time to completely dry.

You been out working on your bus these last two days?

I got my electric bill recently and it said that April of this year was a full 10 degrees colder, on average, than April of last year. I've been taking full advantage of the 70-some degrees and no freaking rain!

One of these days we'll have to meet up. I mean, we only live close enough that one could throw a rock from his yard and break the other's window...

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

I thin it just a little bit, makes it go on better and looks better. The can will have the instructions to thin it.
You can put it on straight, but a bit of thinner and hardener will really make it look and last the best.
The ratios are on the product packaging.

Tractor supply has catalyst hardener, and Lowes has a vaspar version but I've not seen it in stores it may be an online order only item.

I'll be heading out to Tractor Supply and Home Depot today, so hopefully I'll find something that works.

Now another question, which I'm sure will generate a wide variety of opinions, but that's fine.

Flooring.

I intend to lay something down on top of the plywood. I suppose that affordable choices are peel-and-stick tile, or the "floating floor" vinyl planks that adhere to each other. I'd be looking for something that's waterproof, for sure. It would also be nice if the flooring were somewhat forgiving of inconsistencies in how even the plywood deck is. I'd do carpet if I had to, but I can see some disadvantages to it, given how it would be likely to retain odors and probably not be waterproof. I'm not intending to do anything fancy with the floor like install extra insulation... we need all of the interior height we can get.

Any thoughts?

[Twigg]

Just don't lay flooring that is designed to float, under other structures.

If you used vinyl or wooden flooring you can lay it before the build-out, but anything designed to require movement has to be given room to move.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by RomaniGypsy

You been out working on your bus these last two days?

I got my electric bill recently and it said that April of this year was a full 10 degrees colder, on average, than April of last year. I've been taking full advantage of the 70-some degrees and no freaking rain!

One of these days we'll have to meet up. I mean, we only live close enough that one could throw a rock from his yard and break the other's window...



I'll be heading out to Tractor Supply and Home Depot today, so hopefully I'll find something that works.

Now another question, which I'm sure will generate a wide variety of opinions, but that's fine.

Flooring.

I intend to lay something down on top of the plywood. I suppose that affordable choices are peel-and-stick tile, or the "floating floor" vinyl planks that adhere to each other. I'd be looking for something that's waterproof, for sure. It would also be nice if the flooring were somewhat forgiving of inconsistencies in how even the plywood deck is. I'd do carpet if I had to, but I can see some disadvantages to it, given how it would be likely to retain odors and probably not be waterproof. I'm not intending to do anything fancy with the floor like install extra insulation... we need all of the interior height we can get.

Any thoughts?

Just a thought-
Could just carpet the areas left after interior bits are done. Carpet gets a bad rap but I like it and it can be replaced every few years if necessary.

Would you be down for a Florida bus get-together this year? No specific date or anything yet.

I'm trying to get as many active forum members and bus owners together as I can!

Did you take up the factory flooring?

Also- anything "like" rustoleum will work fine. The oil based enamels.
Tractor supply has their own brand. May be labeled "implement paint". But I've had good results for cheap using Rusto products.

[RomaniGypsy]

Originally Posted by Twigg

Just don't lay flooring that is designed to float, under other structures.

If you used vinyl or wooden flooring you can lay it before the build-out, but anything designed to require movement has to be given room to move.

Though this may make some people's hair bristle, suppose I laid floating floor and then screwed all stationary structures into that floating floor and through the plywood? Yes, it would leave holes in the floating floor if ever I redesigned the inside... but if I don't, no problem, right?

[RomaniGypsy]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

Just a thought-
Could just carpet the areas left after interior bits are done. Carpet gets a bad rap but I like it and it can be replaced every few years if necessary.

Would you be down for a Florida bus get-together this year? No specific date or anything yet.

I'm trying to get as many active forum members and bus owners together as I can!

Did you take up the factory flooring?

Also- anything "like" rustoleum will work fine. The oil based enamels.
Tractor supply has their own brand. May be labeled "implement paint". But I've had good results for cheap using Rusto products.

If by "this year" you mean "sometime in the winter", then possibly yes. My wife and I have been giving strong consideration to "snowbirding it" this year, and Florida would seem to be an ideal destination given that it is basically one giant retirement community, and we make our living performing music for senior audiences.

However, it'd have to be January 2019 at the earliest, as we already have shows scheduled in this area through the end of December 2018.

If by "did you take up the factory flooring?" you are referring to the plywood, the answer is "no, and I really don't intend to unless it's absolutely necessary". I don't want to have a ton of money and time into the bus. The more I have into it, the more I stand to lose if, for instance, something breaks and they tell me that I'd have to put thousands of dollars into repairs. I wouldn't be able to do that; I'd be like "forget it... I'll just scrap it for whatever I can get out of it and then get another one at auction".

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by RomaniGypsy

Though this may make some people's hair bristle, suppose I laid floating floor and then screwed all stationary structures into that floating floor and through the plywood? Yes, it would leave holes in the floating floor if ever I redesigned the inside... but if I don't, no problem, right?

The floor has to have room to expand and contract. Screwing through it would make it buckle in those areas.
Put your interior together, then do the floor so it can "float". You can floor inside areas behind stuff and in closets etc separately.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by RomaniGypsy

If by "this year" you mean "sometime in the winter", then possibly yes. My wife and I have been giving strong consideration to "snowbirding it" this year, and Florida would seem to be an ideal destination given that it is basically one giant retirement community, and we make our living performing music for senior audiences.

However, it'd have to be January 2019 at the earliest, as we already have shows scheduled in this area through the end of December 2018.

If by "did you take up the factory flooring?" you are referring to the plywood, the answer is "no, and I really don't intend to unless it's absolutely necessary". I don't want to have a ton of money and time into the bus. The more I have into it, the more I stand to lose if, for instance, something breaks and they tell me that I'd have to put thousands of dollars into repairs. I wouldn't be able to do that; I'd be like "forget it... I'll just scrap it for whatever I can get out of it and then get another one at auction".

What kind of music? Got any youtube vids??
Roxy and I love old people music!

[RomaniGypsy]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

The floor has to have room to expand and contract. Screwing through it would make it buckle in those areas.
Put your interior together, then do the floor so it can "float". You can floor inside areas behind stuff and in closets etc separately.

Would I have this same problem if I used peel-and-stick tile? (I don't relish the time it would take to floor around everything, especially given that I intend to install a raised king-size bed that has a storage area underneath it, accessible from inside the bus and through the rear emergency door.

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

What kind of music? Got any youtube vids??
Roxy and I love old people music!

I have some YouTube videos, but because I am a person of scruples, they are all 30 seconds or shorter. That, technically, is the letter of the law when talking about copyrighted music... anything beyond 30 seconds is subject to royalties, and I doubt I could afford to pay much by way of royalties. It's not like you can set your videos to become inaccessible once you exceed a certain amount of royalty expense per day. The fact that an appalling number of people violate that law for personal gain doesn't change the fact that it is the law, and if I wouldn't want my music exploited by others, I'm not going to exploit others' music.

The videos are from a couple of years ago and our equipment setup is a bit different these days, but you'll get the idea of what we do. You'll find them here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyI...view=0&sort=dd (Make sure you see 24 videos. If you don't, click on "Uploads" to see the full list.)

I'd say that our range of music is 1800's Americana / sing-alongs, all the way through AC/DC and Ozzy... and everything in between except for gospel and opera. Sometimes they want us to crank up the Victrola, sometimes they want us to lay on the distortion... you never can tell!

[EastCoastCB]

That's really cool, man! Yall really look like nice folks for sure!
peel and stick would be the quickest, easiest, and cheapest. I'd still only put it where there's exposed floor and screw the walls etc to the plywood.

[Twigg]

"Peel and Stick" isn't floating, it's stuck to the substrate so no, you wouldn't have that problem.

I saved the OEM vinyl that I peeled up. I'm going to use some of it to cover the floor under the bed and cabinets. For the floor you can see I'll then need less, so maybe I could afford something nice. I'd rather not pay $2 per sq ft for something you'll never see.

[Dog Rescuer]

I started adding carpet tiles that I find on sale - they are very durable and add a nice warmth to the floor. And they can easily be taken out and replaces by the piece - instead of the whole floor.

It's been a nice addition.

As for paint - I originally tried painting with RustOleum - straight from the can and it was too thick and wouldn't dry before dripping... So adding the thinner made sense - I then went with a spray gun - which worked great. And I chose a paint that also came in a Spray Can so that I could use that as touch up - and after driving across the county, I have needed it.

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by RomaniGypsy

You been out working on your bus these last two days?

I got my electric bill recently and it said that April of this year was a full 10 degrees colder, on average, than April of last year. I've been taking full advantage of the 70-some degrees and no freaking rain!

One of these days we'll have to meet up. I mean, we only live close enough that one could throw a rock from his yard and break the other's window...



I'll be heading out to Tractor Supply and Home Depot today, so hopefully I'll find something that works.

Now another question, which I'm sure will generate a wide variety of opinions, but that's fine.

Flooring.

I intend to lay something down on top of the plywood. I suppose that affordable choices are peel-and-stick tile, or the "floating floor" vinyl planks that adhere to each other. I'd be looking for something that's waterproof, for sure. It would also be nice if the flooring were somewhat forgiving of inconsistencies in how even the plywood deck is. I'd do carpet if I had to, but I can see some disadvantages to it, given how it would be likely to retain odors and probably not be waterproof. I'm not intending to do anything fancy with the floor like install extra insulation... we need all of the interior height we can get.

Any thoughts?

Some have had issues with the plank and peel and stick tiles warping, buckling and peeling due to the extreme changes in temperature in the bus.

[RomaniGypsy]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Some have had issues with the plank and peel and stick tiles warping, buckling and peeling due to the extreme changes in temperature in the bus.

Problems not suffered by those who used carpet or carpet tiles, I take it?