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Old 06-20-2021, 02:34 PM   #1981
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Wow, very sorry to hear about your wife's stroke, makes me realize breaking a piece of glass is not such a big deal. I'm glad to hear she's doing OK.
Thanks man. We are definitely lookin forward !!

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Old 06-21-2021, 02:04 PM   #1982
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Installed cabinet hinges for the little door thingie underneath my stove. It was easy to align the hinges properly by leaving the door screwed in place.

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The edge needed some sanding down so it would fit past the folding table.

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The hinge springs keep the door up pretty well, but I added roller clasps at the top. I think these will keep the door in place while driving; I hope so and that I don't have to add anything else to do the job.

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Never installed cabinet hinges like this before but it's pretty easy. I'll use these for all my cabinet doors.

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Now I have to make a decision and pick out some cabinet handles for everything.
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Old 06-21-2021, 08:14 PM   #1983
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These pics only kinda show it, but my $65 sheet of birch plywood was so warped that even this 14" x 38" piece cut out of it is too warped to lay flat.

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I'm going to give it a try as a cabinet door anyway. Maybe the roller clasps will be enough to pull it flat. If not, I may try putting a screen door tensioner on the back to help flatten it.

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Old 06-21-2021, 08:58 PM   #1984
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Installed cabinet hinges for the little door thingie underneath my stove. It was easy to align the hinges properly by leaving the door screwed in place.

Attachment 58742

The edge needed some sanding down so it would fit past the folding table.

Attachment 58743

The hinge springs keep the door up pretty well, but I added roller clasps at the top. I think these will keep the door in place while driving; I hope so and that I don't have to add anything else to do the job.

Attachment 58744

Never installed cabinet hinges like this before but it's pretty easy. I'll use these for all my cabinet doors.

Attachment 58745

Now I have to make a decision and pick out some cabinet handles for everything.
I love concealed hinges. Used them for years. I especially love the “soft close” type. A little jig makes them extremely easy to install. Good job MG !!
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Old 06-21-2021, 09:07 PM   #1985
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I love concealed hinges. Used them for years. I especially love the “soft close” type. A little jig makes them extremely easy to install. Good job MG !!
I need to check out one of those jigs. I'm facing some complications with the ones I'm going to use on the upper bin doors. My framing is 1" thick (because of the stair treads I used for everything) instead of the usual 3/4" and the tops of the doors will be a full inch above the frame edge. So in order for the door to actually open without catching, I'm going to have to do some weird notching on the frame. I was starting on that tonight until it occurred to me I'm really going to need full daylight to do it properly.

I've also realized only in the last couple of weeks that I need to wear my freakin' eyeglasses when I work to do anything accurately - who knew? I tried them out while welding the other day and I realized I can actually see the weld pool that way!
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Old 06-21-2021, 09:25 PM   #1986
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Damn. You had me laughing out loud about using your glasses. “Who knew?” That is exactly what you’ll have to do on the 1”. I have to use 1/4” shims when I do 1/2” material.
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Old 06-22-2021, 07:20 AM   #1987
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Ooooof, just priced some custom cabinet doors online - simple slabs with straight edges and no hardware. The 38"x14" one I just made would be $87. I'm forging ahead with my crappy trimmed plywood doors.
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Old 06-22-2021, 08:21 PM   #1988
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Made an attempt at using the type of hinge that sort of clips on to the edge of the cabinet frame.

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Notched out the frame to fit the hinge.

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Fail. The top of the hinge scrapes against the front of the frame. The top of the cabinet door is 1/8" above that so the door would not open properly.

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Bought some more frameless hinges like I used on the below-oven door and I'm going to use them everywhere instead. Made a jig of sorts to measure out where the screws and extra framing need to go.

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The frameless hinges screw in place farther back from the frame, so I screwed in these extra blocks to support them.

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These work so much better. The door moves out and then up and doesn't come close to scraping the frame.

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The warping on this door is very bad - it's out about 1/4" at the corner.

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Installed a roller clasp in the corner hoping it would have enough force to draw in the corner.

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And of course it does not, although it's a little better this way, about 1/8" out instead of 1/4".

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I have a few things I'm going to try to flatten out the warping. I may buy a screen door tensioner to attach to the back, or I might try bending it the opposite way and then screwing an oak strip on the back to hold it flat. I also have a few long pieces of 1/4-20 all-thread and I might try using those on the back along with L-brackets to make my own tensioner. My concern with all these methods is that tensioning will tend to bow the piece in the middle and not just flatten it.

I should maybe just bite the bullet and go buy a couple of pieces of flat plywood - if I can find any.
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Old 06-23-2021, 02:02 PM   #1989
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Took a stab at a homemade tensioner to flatten my cabinet door, using leftover 1/4-20 all-thread. Pine blocks with only two screws did not work, as the blocks pulled away from the door with even moderate tension in the all-thread.

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Four-screw oak blocks worked pretty well.

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Warped edge straightened up nicely. The door also makes a very satisfying "twangggg" noise when it's closed now, too.

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The middle is bowing out, though, as I expected. Still much less noticeable than the original warping. Went to Home Depot and got a flat piece of birch plywood to use for the remainder of the cabinet doors, as I don't want to put a tensioner on everything.

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Brass handles for the doors.

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Old 06-23-2021, 03:47 PM   #1990
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Love the ingenuity. Keep those pics common’ in !!!
That’s southern for GOOD JOB !!
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Old 06-23-2021, 06:12 PM   #1991
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Wet the wood and then use the tension rods to pull into shape and let it dry. It may go back to flat.
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Old 06-24-2021, 07:45 PM   #1992
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Left side door for the bin over my emergency exit door. First shot at a door that opens normally instead of upwards.

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Worked out OK.

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The doors didn't end up exactly where I wanted them, but they're more-or-less aligned with each other.

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I had to chisel out a little bit of the top right framing so the door wouldn't scrap it when opening. Still needs a little adjustment work and I'll clean this bit up when I paint everything.

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I like these handles, but $6.50 ea. is maybe a bit more than I wanted to spend. Still need to buy 13 more.

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I was surprised to find that the two roller clasps for each door are sufficient to pull the doors in tight. The top ones keep the doors from sagging when closed, which is cool.

These doors are slightly warped also but they won't need tensioners thanks to the clasps. TBD whether or not these will stay closed while driving; probably not with stuff inside, so I'm probably going to have to work out some way of latching them more firmly when I drive. Home Depot has these cute little barrel locks which may do the trick.

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I still think this cabinet is a bit large, but oh well.

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A couple of small fixed panels for the front and back. Making these things is a bit of a pain but I'm getting faster at it, at least.

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Old 06-25-2021, 08:48 PM   #1993
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Started off my morning installing the two fixed panels.

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After installing this one for my rear driver's side bin, I made a pretty remarkable discovery. I'm used to my measurements being off by as much as 1/4", but I was surprised to find this bin is 16" high at the rear end and 15.25" high at the forward end. The bottom of the bin is perfectly parallel to the floor, so that means my roof at the rear bows upwards by 3/4". I probably spent 15 minutes measuring and re-measuring the whole thing to make sure I wasn't losing my mind. It doesn't look irregular in the slightest; only if I stand on a stool and put my eye right at ceiling height can I detect the upward curve.

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Oh well, whatever I can't perceive doesn't bother me. Just had to make these two doors a bit irregular to fit.

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Both doors were slightly warped, but the right one also had a nasty curve in it. Decided to try wedging it into the opposite curve and leaving it while I had lunch (I poured a little water on it but I don't think that did much).

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Surprisingly this worked and it was nearly flat afterwards.

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Both doors had the lower left corner coming up about 1/4", so both of them needed the homegrown tensioners. This is my homage to Pink Floyd, I guess.

I'm not sure how long these doors are going to last with these tensioners, I think the bowing will just get worse over time. It also takes so long to make cabinet doors this way. I'm thinking that paying $90 a pop for legitimate pieces of wood might have been a more sensible way to go. But it wouldn't have been the Rusty 87 way to do things!

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My trusty roller clasps. These things really do provide pretty good holding power, now that I've gotten the hang of installing them properly. Fingers crossed that none of my doors will fly open while driving back to the lot tonight.

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Brass handles installed. Possibly the easiest thing I've done on the bus yet.

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Old 06-26-2021, 07:42 AM   #1994
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I really think you’ve got it going your way MG. I’m diggin the progress !!
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Old 06-26-2021, 07:58 AM   #1995
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I really think you’ve got it going your way MG. I’m diggin the progress !!
Thanks man, I appreciate the kind words, as always. It's funny, making these cabinet doors is so much frustrating work. The last few days I've been ready to quit and sell the bus by lunchtime, but by the end of the day it's all "this looks nice and it worked out pretty well". Skoolies!

I think I overestimated my roller clasps, though. One of the bin doors came open on my drive last night, so I'm going to have to add something to secure them for driving.
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Old 06-26-2021, 09:34 AM   #1996
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Thanks man, I appreciate the kind words, as always. It's funny, making these cabinet doors is so much frustrating work. The last few days I've been ready to quit and sell the bus by lunchtime, but by the end of the day it's all "this looks nice and it worked out pretty well". Skoolies!

I think I overestimated my roller clasps, though. One of the bin doors came open on my drive last night, so I'm going to have to add something to secure them for driving.
I wound up using these puppies. They work great. Just a little tedious the first couple of installs
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Old 06-26-2021, 05:13 PM   #1997
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Securing my small chest freezer. This is the underside in the back, so I decided to just screw down a strip of wood that will fit in one of these grooves.

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Instead of bringing the freezer door flush with the cabinet door, I'm going to have it fixed towards the back. This deals with the fact that it's not white like the rest of my appliances, and I'll also be able to put a small storage compartment on the back of the cabinet door. I'll have to open both the cabinet door and the freezer door to get at stuff, but I don't really use my freezer much so this won't be a big deal.

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Prefabbing the framing for the cabinet doors.

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The center door will be small and I'll build a drawer above it. I wanted more drawers than just this one, but oh well.

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Additional framing for the bottom of the dropped closet door.

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Old 06-26-2021, 05:15 PM   #1998
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I wound up using these puppies. They work great. Just a little tedious the first couple of installs
These look good, I'll give them a try.
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Old 06-28-2021, 08:13 PM   #1999
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Slow day, it got too hot and humid for me to be motivated to do much of anything. Did manage to finish facing off my cabinet so I can start building and mounting the doors and drawer.

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Old 06-30-2021, 04:32 PM   #2000
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Two more doors for the driver's side cabinet. I've been having a difficult time ripping pieces of poplar 1x4 to make the trim edges, since it's hard on my table saw to keep the pieces exactly 1/4" thick. Realized Home Depot sells 1/4" x 4' x 3.5" pieces of poplar that are much easier and quicker to use.

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This door went on easy, perfectly flush with the framing.

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The framing for the closet door is a bit out of square (a mere 1/4" at the bottom), so I had to shave a bit down to attach the hinge. I was thinking of using three hinges on this door instead of two since it's the biggest (24" x 28") but two hinges seems to work fine.

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This door was slightly non-flat so it needs a tensioner.

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