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08-04-2021, 08:16 PM
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#2101
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Tack your too large patch to the side, and then use the cutoff wheel to cut through the patch and the bus at the same time. You now have a patch that fits exactly.
__________________
I Thank God That He Gifted Me with Common Sense
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08-05-2021, 06:26 PM
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#2102
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Welded on the bit of faux fender rim.
The two plug welds look so-so. I'll improve them with bondo.
A very badly-timed catastrophe, one of the pins and its containing metal on my electric shears broke off, rendering it inoperable - and I only had a couple more cuts to make with it before I'm basically finished with the sheet metal work on my bus.
A battlefield repair that failed miserably. The outer part of this is sintered metal which apparently can be welded, but apparently not by me - these broke loose immediately. I may make another attempt at this just so I can squeeze a bit more life out of this thing. Spent the afternoon driving around trying to find replacement shears, but no luck. Harbor Freight was out of them at the moment and Lowe's and Home Depot only sell them online.
So I had a fun time cutting this horizontal bottom strip with my diablo cutting wheel. I really hate cutting sheet metal with cutting wheels, so difficult compared to the shears.
This smaller notch in the fender will be easier to deal with without the shears, at least.
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08-05-2021, 06:43 PM
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#2103
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 638
Year: 2009
Coachwork: Gillig
Chassis: G27E102
Engine: Cummins ISL 280
Rated Cap: 26,000 lbs
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Looks like you managed nonetheless! I love those kind of shears, got a pair too. They are also available pneumatic form, perhaps easier to get as well.
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08-05-2021, 07:40 PM
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#2104
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bert06840
Looks like you managed nonetheless! I love those kind of shears, got a pair too. They are also available pneumatic form, perhaps easier to get as well.
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Huh, HF does have the pneumatic varieties in stock at my local, and they're cheaper at ~$30. I probably should have bothered to walk the extra 20 feet to look over the pneumatic section.
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08-06-2021, 01:30 PM
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#2105
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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08-08-2021, 12:07 PM
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#2106
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 703
Year: 1995
Engine: DT408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
Huh, HF does have the pneumatic varieties in stock at my local, and they're cheaper at ~$30. I probably should have bothered to walk the extra 20 feet to look over the pneumatic section.
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This repair kit might be the ticket for those shears:
https://www.amazon.com/Gino-Developm.../dp/B004HJJXVC
__________________
I am an sojourner in the earth; hide not Your Commandments from me. Psalm 119:19
Here is the patience of the saints; here are the ones keeping the commandments of YAHWEH, and the faith of Yahshua. Rev. 14:12
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08-08-2021, 12:19 PM
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#2107
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sojourner
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I'm actually on my second set of swivel heads (HF sells those for its shears as well). The problem is that the "beak" piece which holds all those parts (and is made of sintered metal) broke along with the pin.
I found somebody selling used HF shears for $30 on OfferUp, so perhaps I will get lucky.
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08-09-2021, 04:06 PM
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#2108
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Prepped for filling my big dent with bondo glass.
I wanted to call this my "fender bender" but then I realized this is the skirt and not the fender. "Skirt straightener" I guess is what it is.
Kinda worked.
First layer of bondo glass.
These pics didn't come out too well, but they're pics of a huge cicada being dragged up the side of the bus by a really huge wasp.
After this pic, the wasp tried flying with it again but it ended up hitting the street and rolling a few times with it. Then it just started eating the cicada in the street. I could hear the crunching from like 30' away.
Something weird was going on with the bondo where it was setting up after like 20 seconds, despite my mixing in only a little dab of the hardener. I had to go with mixing very small batches to get it to work.
I got hit with the depressing scope of how much prep work the sides of the bus are going to take before I can start painting. At least half the rivets need to be scraped and primed because of rusting, and the bottom edges of all the rub rails need flap-discing. The "BROCTON C" paint is also not coming off very easily, and there's still a lot of tape glue residue on the other side I need to get off. Sigh.
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08-09-2021, 04:09 PM
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#2109
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 781
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP-EF
Engine: Cat C7 + Allison 3000PTS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
I got hit with the depressing scope of how much prep work the sides of the bus are going to take before I can start painting. At least half the rivets need to be scraped and primed because of rusting, and the bottom edges of all the rub rails need flap-discing. The "BROCTON C" paint is also not coming off very easily, and there's still a lot of tape glue residue on the other side I need to get off. Sigh.
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Why not just wire wheel the rusty rivets, orbital sand the rest, then go at it with paint? From what I’ve seen most exterior paints folks have been using are pretty effective and forgiving on these buses.
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08-09-2021, 04:30 PM
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#2110
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbsoundman
Why not just wire wheel the rusty rivets, orbital sand the rest, then go at it with paint? From what I’ve seen most exterior paints folks have been using are pretty effective and forgiving on these buses.
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Well, that is basically what I'm doing, but in my case with the rusty rivets there's a bit of bubbling paint all around them that doesn't come off with the wire wheel, so I have to hand-scrape around each of them with a painter's tool.
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08-09-2021, 04:34 PM
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#2111
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 781
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP-EF
Engine: Cat C7 + Allison 3000PTS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
Well, that is basically what I'm doing, but in my case with the rusty rivets there's a bit of bubbling paint all around them that doesn't come off with the wire wheel, so I have to hand-scrape around each of them with a painter's tool.
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Ah, yeah that will take some working.
As they say, painting is like 90% prep…
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08-09-2021, 04:35 PM
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#2112
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbsoundman
Ah, yeah that will take some working.
As they say, painting is like 90% prep…
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Aka "depressing scope".
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08-09-2021, 05:26 PM
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#2113
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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A solution of Prep & Etch sprayed on all the surface rust will eliminate it and prevent it's return. Rinse after 15 minutes, dry and paint. Paint thinner on a rag will probably attack the surface black paint without marring the yellow.
__________________
I Thank God That He Gifted Me with Common Sense
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08-09-2021, 06:15 PM
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#2114
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 787
Year: 1993
Coachwork: 44' Newell Coach
Engine: 8v92T Detroit
Rated Cap: 2 adults and two pigeons
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Cicada's are being dipped in chocolate and sold here as a dessert. Nuts if you ask me. They say it has a nutty flavor. I am not going to try it. Yes, these buses can be daunting when working on them alone. I can only do so much but it will get done. One day at a time. You'll get there!
__________________
--Simon
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08-10-2021, 07:44 AM
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#2115
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Wamego Ks
Posts: 617
Year: 2007
Chassis: Collins
Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
Huh, HF does have the pneumatic varieties in stock at my local, and they're cheaper at ~$30. I probably should have bothered to walk the extra 20 feet to look over the pneumatic section.
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That sucks your shears broke! Mine are still going strong (so far)... I had to get caught up on all your progress! Looking great! And your metal patch jobs are going it well it looks like!!
I need to tackle painting my bus soon! You're giving me some inspiration!
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08-10-2021, 04:46 PM
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#2116
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Driver's side fender bondo.
Passenger side, primed underneath the rub rail replacement.
Riveted the rub rail piece. I was thinking of using self-tapping screws for this because I wasn't sure the 1/4" rivets would pull through the rail flange and two layers of sheet metal, but they worked great. I also welded up the joint between the new piece and the old rail.
More bondo glass. Reproducing the rub rail profile on the seam and on the end cap is going to take a few more coats at least.
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08-10-2021, 05:07 PM
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#2117
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frochevy
That sucks your shears broke! Mine are still going strong (so far)... I had to get caught up on all your progress! Looking great! And your metal patch jobs are going it well it looks like!!
I need to tackle painting my bus soon! You're giving me some inspiration!
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Thanks! I'm jealous of how small your bus is right now, that's for sure.
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08-10-2021, 08:14 PM
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#2118
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Wamego Ks
Posts: 617
Year: 2007
Chassis: Collins
Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
Thanks! I'm jealous of how small your bus is right now, that's for sure.
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Haha!
When my wife and three kids are in our short bus on a rainy weekend, I'm jealous of yours!! Lol
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08-11-2021, 06:14 PM
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#2119
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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The end of the "BROCTON C" era.
First sanding of the bondo glass. This stuff hold together great over seams and holes, but sanding it is a real pain.
Rub rail end is coming together.
More bondo work on the rub rail seam.
Attacked the rivets.
Sanded the driver's side bondo.
Rusty rivets and screws.
Fortunately this particular wire wheel takes the paint right off the rivets and screws, and also gets the bubbly paint around it. It's hard enough work with this thing, I can't imagine that I was going to do these all with a painter's tool.
So much prep still to do, ye gods. Hope I can start painting on Saturday.
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08-11-2021, 11:31 PM
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#2120
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Fraser Valley British Columbia
Posts: 1,043
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: C7 Cat
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Ya that glass filler bondo is a real bear to sand but it’s looking awesome. Man where does the time go? I thought I’d be painting by now and I’m not even close. My wife and I get one holiday a year together and that’s in September, coming up fast and all she wants is a few weeks cruising in the bus.
You’re making great progress and it looks like the finish line might be in sight.
Keep at it and enjoy some cruising.
Cheers
Curtis
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