Rusty 87 build thread

[musigenesis]

1.5" angle steel, de-rusted with naval jelly. Short pieces are coped which was a huge pain. I wish I had some magical saw that cut steel like butter.



Expanded sheet I got for $40 on Craigslist. Seems to be a deal, and the dude has a bunch more to sell. I can get 4 for $100 (sheets are a little smaller than 4'x8') and I'm thinking about using it for inside shelving and cabinets.



Frame tacked. I'm worried about heat warping for this thing so I kept the work well quenched and the whole thing has not warped or distorted at all.



Fully welded and ground.



Spot-welded the expanded sheet. I might do four more spots along each side, but it doesn't seem to be necessary.



This thing is really heavy even though it's only 75"x30", but it can support my weight with no center pillar, which would require a much thicker structure if it were made of wood. If I were to do this over, I would probably use 1" flatbar in the same frame structure instead of the 1.5" angle steel and be a lot lighter.

[Native]

Nice job! The expanded steel will let the mattress breathe. Cool!

[banman]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

1.5" angle steel, de-rusted with naval jelly. Short pieces are coped which was a huge pain. I wish I had some magical saw that cut steel like butter.

Attachment 40462

Expanded sheet I got for $40 on Craigslist. Seems to be a deal, and the dude has a bunch more to sell. I can get 4 for $100 (sheets are a little smaller than 4'x8') and I'm thinking about using it for inside shelving and cabinets.

Attachment 40463

Frame tacked. I'm worried about heat warping for this thing so I kept the work well quenched and the whole thing has not warped or distorted at all.

Attachment 40464

Fully welded and ground.

Attachment 40465

Spot-welded the expanded sheet. I might do four more spots along each side, but it doesn't seem to be necessary.

Attachment 40466

This thing is really heavy even though it's only 75"x30", but it can support my weight with no center pillar, which would require a much thicker structure if it were made of wood. If I were to do this over, I would probably use 1" flatbar in the same frame structure instead of the 1.5" angle steel and be a lot lighter.

Nice.
You can find strength charts on line so you can compare metal stock selections. Angle is much stronger than flat bar. If that frame is just to hold your mattress -- depending on how hard you frolic, I'd bet 14ga ½" angle iron would be strong enough -- your welds would have to be good (cause that's a lot less weld area to work with)

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by banman

Angle is much stronger than flat bar.

Angle is a good general-purpose beam material because it strongly resists bending in two planes. If the beams are part of a structure where they're only exposed to bending in one plane (as in my bed frame) then half the material of the angle is superfluous. If I'd built my frame out of 1.5" 3/16 flatbar, it would be just as strong (as a bed platform which only bends downward in the middle) while weighing half as much.

[plfking]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

I picked it under the theory that any continuing rust will be easier to spot. I might eventually find that I would rather not know.

If anyone would be justified in feeling that way, it would be you.

And a 'nice job' on the bed frame.

[Frochevy]

Good looking bed frame. I'll be making one similar for a bunk bed for the kids. I haven't decided what material I'm using yet. Was thinking about 1" sq tubing since I already have some. Mine will be 38" by 75".

[kidharris]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

I wish I had some magical saw that cut steel like butter.

What are you using now?

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by kidharris

What are you using now?

I have a titanium-tipped 10" blade in my mitre saw and that actually cuts anything up to 1/4" really easily, but to do the coping on these cross-beams I had to make one cut with my angle grinder. I'm honestly really gun-shy on the grinder right now because I've had two recent experiences with the wheel breaking and the grinder flying out of my hands. At the moment, in fact, I'm the proud owner of four angle-grinders, three of which have the nut jammed.

I really need a metal-cutting band saw and I've been scouring CL for one, but no luck so far.

[kidharris]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

I have a titanium-tipped 10" blade in my mitre saw and that actually cuts anything up to 1/4" really easily, but to do the coping on these cross-beams I had to make one cut with my angle grinder. I'm honestly really gun-shy on the grinder right now because I've had two recent experiences with the wheel breaking and the grinder flying out of my hands. At the moment, in fact, I'm the proud owner of four angle-grinders, three of which have the nut jammed.

I really need a metal-cutting band saw and I've been scouring CL for one, but no luck so far.

Never seen a "titanium-tipped 10" blade". Is it a wood miter saw? I've never seen a ferros metal cutting or cold cut saw with 10" blades.


A lot of people (my self included, in the beginning) don't get the cut off blades set up correctly in their 4.5" grinders and that causes problems or are dangerous. I have one 18v Makita and 6 HF cheap corded grinders (had 8 but 2 walked off) and I keep a different attachment in each one, saves time and accidents caused by crappy blade changes caused by being in a hurry to get back to work) I use 2 for cut off wheels (keep a worn down blade in one for when I need a smaller blade).


I've worn out hundreds of cheap cutoff wheels and never had one break/shatter (chip - yes, scared - yes, lucky - I'm sure) I try to be very concious of if the wheel is in a bind or if I am holding it a angle, or blade rotation in a direction relative to the work that is going to cause kick back. I try not to take too big of a bite or use much pressure, let the speed do the work.


How do you jam a nut?

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by kidharris

Never seen a "titanium-tipped 10" blade". Is it a wood miter saw?

It's a wood miter saw but it's OK to cut metal with it because it's not mine. The blade is this thing: https://www.lowes.com/pd/LENOX-10-in...ade/1000612821

[kidharris]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

It's a wood miter saw but it's OK to cut metal with it because it's not mine. The blade is this thing: https://www.lowes.com/pd/LENOX-10-in...ade/1000612821

LOL....


Wood saws turn too fast for "cutting" steel, but work great for aluminum

I use an older version of this with a tri ground steel cutting blade, the advantage is much cleaner, straighter cuts with less grinding to correct the angles. I paid $300 used about 10 years ago. I don't remember ever cutting anything thicker than .25" wall 3"x3" sq tube and 6" channel, don't remember web thickness. Worked way better than abrasive blade saws.


https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-...ct_top?ie=UTF8


Here is a 2007 review that I pretty much agree with


https://forum.millerwelds.com/forum/...0-cold-cut-saw


I had a 12" Makita that I sold to get the PorterCable, not sure if this is the exact same saw but it looks like it


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YOLV..._t3_B0000222X3


Notice the rpms (1300 and 1700) of both saws are way slower than wood saws It is all about "feeds and speeds" when drilling or cutting metal.

[musigenesis]

I was going to leave this until it was light tomorrow, but I set it in place this afternoon resting on a tv table and two cases of soda (they came to the exactly correct height underneath) and then I had to go off and do other stuff. I realized that the cans would freeze overnight so I had to go out and weld this enough to hold it.

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by kidharris

How do you jam a nut?

When a disk breaks the wheels stops suddenly and the torque jams the nut on hard against what's left of the disk. The only way to fix it (according to the internet and my personal experience) is to get another grinder with a cutting wheel and grind out enough of what's left of the broken disk to where you can knock the nut loose by whacking the wrench-tool with a hammer.

I went and did this with my third angle grinder today and got the nut loose, so at least I have two angle grinders again. My fear when I only have one grinder functioning is that I'll jam that one up, too, and then have to go buy a fifth grinder.

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by Native

Nice job! The expanded steel will let the mattress breathe. Cool!

More important than I thought.

I put a new memory foam mattress on a typical RV plywood platform.

Without air circulation the underside of the mattress got NASTY!

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

When a disk breaks the wheels stops suddenly and the torque jams the nut on hard against what's left of the disk. The only way to fix it (according to the internet and my personal experience) is to get another grinder with a cutting wheel and grind out enough of what's left of the broken disk to where you can knock the nut loose by whacking the wrench-tool with a hammer.

I went and did this with my third angle grinder today and got the nut loose, so at least I have two angle grinders again. My fear when I only have one grinder functioning is that I'll jam that one up, too, and then have to go buy a fifth grinder.

Practice good techniques with the cut off wheel/grinding wheels. Once you have that figured out, you will have all of your grinders in working condition and none stuck or blown apart. The cut off wheels are very thin and can be damaged easy from side loading them. When cutting with them try not to bind bind or side load them. Watch out for pinching if cutting metal and it sags onto the disc. If you drop the grinder on the ground, it can put a crack in the wheel causing the wheel to break at full rpm. Watch out for edges or corners of steel as they can catch. Also, if you see a chip in a wheel, this could also cause them to break. Breaking discs can be very dangerous.

I've seen a gentleman wearing a faceshield and safety glasses get a really good scar from his mouth around the side of his face from a large cut off wheel blowing apart. Could have been way worse if the face shield didn't slow the disc down. We still show the faceshield with the wheel halfway stuck through it to new employees in orientation. I wanted to pass this one to anyone that reads this as they can be amazing tools for quick work but also very dangerous if used incorrectly. Hope this helps!!

[Native]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Attachment 40565

Attachment 40566

I was going to leave this until it was light tomorrow, but I set it in place this afternoon resting on a tv table and two cases of soda (they came to the exactly correct height underneath) and then I had to go off and do other stuff. I realized that the cans would freeze overnight so I had to go out and weld this enough to hold it.

As they say no time like the present! Funny what motivates us as we build our machines. The tub looks like it really likes it's new home.

[cadillackid]

ive never had a nut jam onto a grinder I couldnt get loose..



big pair of vice grips and push in on the button to stop the rotation and bang on the vice grips with a mallet and loose..

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

ive never had a nut jam onto a grinder I couldnt get loose..



big pair of vice grips and push in on the button to stop the rotation and bang on the vice grips with a mallet and loose..

I've tried this a number of times but the vice grips always just slide around the round nut, and that's with clamping them down as hard as I can manage.

[o1marc]

I use a large set of channel locks to break the round nut free. It won't slip, the more pressure you use the tighter it gets.

[musigenesis]

Made bed posts for the new bed frame. Probably not going to use these in the bus but I needed something to keep it off the floor for the time being. Oak 1x8 cut into 11.75" lengths and 1x4 cut into 7" lengths, both pieces notched and cross-fit and then cut two 45 degree notches in the top for the steel frame. No screws or nails or glue, the pieces just fit together.





Tried it out first without the middle posts and it's fine, doesn't bend much in the middle.





Added the middle posts because I made them already so dammit I am going to use them.





Very stable, only a slight wobble. I may eventually screw the two pieces of each post together from the bottom to firm things up.