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01-12-2020, 03:54 PM
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#321
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Wamego Ks
Posts: 617
Year: 2007
Chassis: Collins
Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
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Keep up your momentum!!! It's looking great! Temporary plywood or not,you're moving forward! We had ice and temps in the low teens this weekend so I didn't get much done on mine...
Quote:
Originally Posted by kidharris
Food for thought...was it easier because you didn't take the time/effort to square and clamp it to keep it square?
Do you know of any paint primer that is made for welding over? Red iron oxide type primer?
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I agree it is harder to build ahead and then fit it in place. But I'm anal so I have to make it square... lol
Yep they make weld through primer. I haven't used any on my bus, but have used some on cars in the past...
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01-12-2020, 04:31 PM
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#322
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Oven shelf done
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01-12-2020, 04:48 PM
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#323
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kidharris
Food for thought...was it easier because you didn't take the time/effort to square and clamp it to keep it square?
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Well, I did take the same time and effort to keep it square, just failed at it since what I'm squaring off of is a bit wonky to begin with. I think this one was mainly easier since I didn't go through the multi-day process of de-rusting, priming and painting.
Quote:
Do you know of any paint primer that is made for welding over? Red iron oxide type primer?
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@banman recommended that before. I haven't seen any locally and haven't ordered any online yet.
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01-12-2020, 05:27 PM
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#324
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Savannah GA
Posts: 756
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 24v
Rated Cap: 54 passenger
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You're getting so much done. It's awesome. Shel Silverstein has a song about having nothing left to roll. What's going to happen when you have nothing left to weld?
And a question about welding to rust. I thought it wouldn't hold? I'm on my underside trying to avoid cutting anything out (except those few spots you saw) and wondering about welding storage boxes, and tank supports etc. And how clean I need to be. Might end up trying to bolt things to the c channels.
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01-12-2020, 05:43 PM
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#325
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDSquared
You're getting so much done. It's awesome. Shel Silverstein has a song about having nothing left to roll. What's going to happen when you have nothing left to weld?
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I'm going to dance and sing, no concerns there. I'm honestly getting kind of sick of cutting and welding right now, but I have to keep going and take advantage of this fantastic weather.
Quote:
And a question about welding to rust. I thought it wouldn't hold? I'm on my underside trying to avoid cutting anything out (except those few spots you saw) and wondering about welding storage boxes, and tank supports etc. And how clean I need to be. Might end up trying to bolt things to the c channels.
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I'm welding into floor metal in the pic that I made that comment on, it just has a nice layer of surface rust on it - so it's more like I'm welding through rust than welding into it, really. You have to hold the arc on the rusty side a little longer to make sure the weld pool sucks from the solid metal underneath it.
It holds well enough for sheet-metal-on-sheet-metal connecting, but I wouldn't trust it for holding up anything heavy on the underside. My tub tray is entirely welded into the new steel of my frame, and for my gray tank I'm probably going to do something like a heavy T where the top of the T rests on the floor inside spanning two cross-beams and the vertical part projects through the floor to the underside and be attached to the tank (like one T for each corner of the tank). My underside is just too rusty to have anything heavy welded directly to it.
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01-12-2020, 06:31 PM
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#326
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Savannah GA
Posts: 756
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 24v
Rated Cap: 54 passenger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
I'm going to dance and sing, no concerns there. I'm honestly getting kind of sick of cutting and welding right now, but I have to keep going and take advantage of this fantastic weather.
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I'm so spoiled here lol. No time no money though in this 74F winter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
My underside is just too rusty to have anything heavy welded directly to it.
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My C channels look good. I go back and forth on how bad my rust is. I was a bit depressed yesterday after post Ospho grinding. But I went back a minute today and it looks good. A lot of bare metal on the channels and some rust around what I assume are weep holes.
Every fourth or fifth is an angle iron though, instead of a channel. Those are in bad shape for some reason. And the two I did so far turned black, mostly, like it should. But it's chunky. I'm not sure yet if I can weld to it.
We'll see. Lol I should be posting this to my own thread instead of here.
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01-12-2020, 11:50 PM
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#327
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Golden Valley AZ
Posts: 1,036
Year: 1993
Chassis: ThomasBuilt 30'
Engine: need someone to tell me
Rated Cap: me + 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frochevy
Yep they make weld through primer. I haven't used any on my bus, but have used some on cars in the past...
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Product names or types of paint?
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01-13-2020, 06:05 AM
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#328
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Heres a self etching weld-through primer-
https://www.amazon.com/Seymour-20-16...37586035&psc=1
Most of the "cold galvanized" cans can be welded through, too.
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01-13-2020, 08:10 AM
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#329
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Wamego Ks
Posts: 617
Year: 2007
Chassis: Collins
Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kidharris
Product names or types of paint?
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Sorry I should have put a link in before... I've used Eastwood stuff in the past along with their Rust encapsulator for converting rust. On the bus I'm using POR15 because it was available on Amazon. Here is a link to the weld through primer from Eastwood.
https://www.eastwood.com/ew-self-etching-weld-thru-primer-16-1-oz-aero.html?SRCCODE=PLA00010&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0Leo9 t-A5wIVSb7ACh1MrQNFEAQYASABEgIyEfD_BwE
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01-13-2020, 12:19 PM
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#330
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Pics from my original bus listing
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01-13-2020, 04:15 PM
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#331
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Welding fail
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01-13-2020, 07:07 PM
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#332
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Wamego Ks
Posts: 617
Year: 2007
Chassis: Collins
Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
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Well was worth a try. Did the tile break when it heated up?
Have you tried grinding the edge of the joint on the bus side to remove everything down to bare metal?
You have a nice sized gap that should weld good without any backing. (Judging by the picture)
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01-13-2020, 07:22 PM
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#333
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frochevy
Well was worth a try. Did the tile break when it heated up?
Have you tried grinding the edge of the joint on the bus side to remove everything down to bare metal?
You have a nice sized gap that should weld good without any backing. (Judging by the picture)
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The instant I hit the trigger on the welder, the tile broke with a really loud bang and made me think I had somehow broken something on the frame. It kept breaking more as I kept going - definitely not the correct material for this.
I could normally weld over a gap this size, but the bus metal is too pitted (on top and bottom) for the weld pool to grab it and it just burns it off instead. I should really be replacing much larger areas of the floor, but I just don't have the heart for it right now. I'm able to weld small patches successfully in this area if the patch is on top of the hole (with about 3/16" of overlap), but I was trying this technique with the tile so the patch could be flush with the floor.
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01-13-2020, 07:31 PM
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#334
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Wamego Ks
Posts: 617
Year: 2007
Chassis: Collins
Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
The instant I hit the trigger on the welder, the tile broke with a really loud bang and made me think I had somehow broken something on the frame. It kept breaking more as I kept going - definitely not the correct material for this.
I could normally weld over a gap this size, but the bus metal is too pitted (on top and bottom) for the weld pool to grab it and it just burns it off instead. I should really be replacing much larger areas of the floor, but I just don't have the heart for it right now. I'm able to weld small patches successfully in this area if the patch is on top of the hole (with about 3/16" of overlap), but I was trying this technique with the tile so the patch could be flush with the floor.
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I see. Makes sense. I'm glad you tried so other people know it won't work well.
Looking in the picture the top left I agree it looks like the metal was super Rusty. If it disappears the instant you strike an arc, it is probably mostly rust and the patch should be larger. Are you trying to initiate the arc on the thicker new piece of metal, then wash over on to the bus side after the puddle has started?
The weld on the bottom right of the patch looks great! Looks fairly flat like it burned in well and welded to good metal!!
I feel helpless trying to help you over a message board. I've always taught people by showing them in person... Lol
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01-13-2020, 07:37 PM
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#335
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frochevy
I see. Makes sense. I'm glad you tried so other people know it won't work well.
Looking in the picture the top left I agree it looks like the metal was super Rusty. If it disappears the instant you strike an arc, it is probably mostly rust and the patch should be larger. Are you trying to initiate the arc on the thicker new piece of metal, then wash over on to the bus side after the puddle has started?
The weld on the bottom right of the patch looks great! Looks fairly flat like it burned in well and welded to good metal!!
I feel helpless trying to help you over a message board. I've always taught people by showing them in person... Lol
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Well thanks for your concern, but you don't have to feel helpless on my behalf. These little holes are just for fun now that I've got the big one closed up.
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01-13-2020, 08:33 PM
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#336
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Golden Valley AZ
Posts: 1,036
Year: 1993
Chassis: ThomasBuilt 30'
Engine: need someone to tell me
Rated Cap: me + 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
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looks good enough, but if you blow up the pic of the rear, I can see something, but bot alarming
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01-13-2020, 08:40 PM
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#337
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kidharris
looks good enough, but if you blow up the pic of the rear, I can see something, but bot alarming
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You wouldn't think the entire corner would need to be rebuilt just from that pic.
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01-14-2020, 12:58 PM
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#338
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Golden Valley AZ
Posts: 1,036
Year: 1993
Chassis: ThomasBuilt 30'
Engine: need someone to tell me
Rated Cap: me + 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
You wouldn't think the entire corner would need to be rebuilt just from that pic.
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correct, I wouldn't think that
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01-14-2020, 02:13 PM
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#339
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Savannah GA
Posts: 756
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 24v
Rated Cap: 54 passenger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kidharris
correct, I wouldn't think that
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You need to go farther back in this build thread and see what he did to the back corner. This is the same bus, and what the dealer showed him before he bought it.
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01-14-2020, 02:18 PM
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#340
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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